Vias em Free State para uma graduação selecionada

start the duno to the jug then up the overhanging face. might be 22 for shorter climbers

Right of Tenpin. Take care clipping the third bolt and beware of the concrete pillar to the right.

Starts just left of the fence on the eastern side of the boulder. Climb up and then traverse left and down again.

There are various fun and easy problems on the south side of the boulder climbing the well featured face.

Start sitting with both hands on a big ledge and top out.

Sit down start with right hand in a shallow pocket and left on a sidepull up to a sloper on the right. Top out.

Start sitting 1m left of the small scoop on some slopers for the left & right. Climb up the layback to the left.

Left sidepull & right on a big edge, up as for MAD COW.

Climbs up the low arête from a sit start. Start low on a big flat ledge & smaller crimp slightly higher for the right and top out.

Stand start to COW CORNER.

Sit start, climb up on sharp grips to top. This is about 2m left of CLEEROY.

Sit down start up on arete to top out.

Stand start on a platform with an undercling, top out and don't fall!

Straight up the middle of the scooped wall, top out.

Sit start and climb up arete.

Sit down start with hands on hold low down on the corner. Move slightly diagonally left and top out up the arete.

Between Quiver and Speary, some unusual climbing. The route name is an acronym for Yet Another Twenty One. Consensus on grade wanted.

Short fun line left of Moon Unit.

Fun pocketed line left of Platypus. Many holds, the good ones well hidden. Can be a little sharp on the fingers.

Starts next to PLATYPUS and heads up rightward.

Roughly in the middle of the inverted V, 10m left of the huge Yellowwood. Some fine consumer face climbing. This is the first fully bolted route to top out at about 175m (edit: this seems unlikely, probably more like 130m). The route has slab, face, overhangs and cracks and is worth doing.

There is as of 2003 a Gymnogene nest about 50m above this route, please take care not to disturb them.

1. 16 (10B,A) Climbs the gray slab for about 20m. FA: Rory Lowther & Roland Magg

2. 17 (10D,A) More slab climbing for about 22m. FA: Rory Lowther & Roland Magg Note: Pitches 1 & 2 can be combined to give one 40m pitch.

3. 21 (8D,A) Climb slightly left then up through face and slab section to stance at big ledge this pitch can be dirty. FA: Rory Lowther & Chris Rudolph

4. 21,A0,F23 (10B,A) Climb left the up the crack and face to a cruxy technical section pulling through just below stance. Crux section can be aided on close bolts or freed at 23. FA: Rory Lowther & Chris Rudolph

5. 19 (10D,A) Climb the slab section heading right to a good crack with some fun lay backing, at the top of crack traverse left to stance under roof on good ledge. FA: Rory Lowther & Chris Rudolph

6. 18 (10D,A) Walk out left on small ledge the climb straight up and into off width roofy section, follow the crack from here to stance. FA: Rory Lowther & Chris Rudolph

7. 16 (10D,A) Climb the slab, then through a bulge and onto another thin slab to the finish on top of the mountain. Note the additional set of abseil chains about halfway through this pitch. FA: Rory Lowther & Chris Rudolph

Decent

Abseiling is recommended back to the ground, there are 8 abseils back down using a 50m rope or 4 on two ropes.

The route is situated on a clean face midway between A Time to Climb and Long Bolt to Freedom. There is a faint inverted V crack line (gable) which marks the start of the climb. This fun route incorporates a full assortment of varied climbing in which the grade remains fairly consistent throughout. Although the route has seen some extensive cleaning, it is still advisable to wear a helmet (as the wallpaper might peel off occasional). The route also seems to be more sheltered from the wind than those on the north-west side of the mountain.

1. 21 [9D,A] 14m Climb the left hand hypotenuse of the inverted V crack line until the apex. Continue straight up for a few meters further until the hanging belay is reached.

2. 21 [9D,A] 16m Continue up the face, slightly right of the open book, using some bold moves untiljust before the first overhang is reached. Note** Combining the first two pitches is possible if the guns are loaded and carrying 21 draws is not a problem.

3. A0 [5D,A] 8m Several bolts have been placed just over the lip of the overhang in order to assist with aiding. One needs to stand in some long slings and pull on a quick draw or two, in order to gain access to the anchors above. Note** In future, it is hope that this section can be bypassed by bolting a line which traverses out to the left and back again. Note** Freeing this pitch might be in the mid 20’ies, so give it a burn.

4. 21 [14D,A] 28m This pitch incorporates a cruxy technical section of approximately 5m near the bottom. The grade then starts to ease off. Traverse out to the right one bolt before the abseil anchors to reduce drag for the next traverse pitch or continue up straight if attempting the roof.

5. 18 [8D,A] 15m Climb the rib on the right of the overhang section. Traverse out left above the second large roof, once you have pulled through the lip on some large holds. This fun pitch provides some exposed climbing (which can be interesting if the wind is howling). Note** A more direct approach (which has been bolted) is to climb straight through the overhand thereby averting the transverse across the top of the roof. Grade 22 ???.

6. 18 [10D,A] 25m Scramble to the base of the top section of the cliff. Climb the face leading onto some protruding rock features (to the right of the big nose). Tricky take-off move.

7. 16 [4D,A] 8m Climb through a bulge on the right from which the top is reached.

Note** Possible to combine these 2 pitches but there will be a bit of rope drag on the top section.

Abseiling: A 60m rope will reduce the number of abseils. There are several combined pitches which reach exactly 30m (take care and knot the ends) – it takes 4 abs to get off. It should be possible to ab off using only 1 50m rope by abbing only one pitch at a time. With 2 50m ropes, it should be possible to get off in 3 abs.

On the western side of the Pacific Ocean boulder there is a perfect hands-to-fists-to-body crack. One piece each from Camalot t#3 to #4. Climb the crack on the west side of the PO boulder - named after the Tonga Trench on the western side of the Pacific Ocean.

Start up 'Slightly Chilled' to the first bolt, then move to the right, around the arête and onto the east face. Continue up just to the right of the arête to reach the anchors.

Start as for Rhino, but carry straight up all the way. 2 move wonder 21, can be aided by pulling on a draw, still much harder move than the rest of the 3 pitches combined.

Takes the awkward corner and up through the roof.

A beautiful line with a very tricky start (the crux), that then trends diagonally left up the face, eventually sharing top anchors with Beavis and Butt-Head. A second crux is encountered just before joining those lines.

Climbs a nice line of holds and pockets through overhanging and then vertical rock. Very sustained at its grade, although a good hands-off rest can be had after you have dispensed with the crux.

Climbs the thin seam on the left hand side of the boulder. High first clip.

The route goes up the centre of the main face on the western side of the koppie. This route starts on a boulder between some bushes, and the start should be marked with a cairn.

1. 14 3D A access pitch

2. 21 5D A

3. 16 3D A

4. 16 4D A