Vias em South Africa para uma graduação selecionada

Start to right of WWOF up broken recess to right of flake crack.

Just upstream of the roof crack of DOG STAR is an overhanging, left trending, groove with two bolts.

1. 25m 26 Pull up on jugs to the first bolt. Up to a rail at the base of the corner, then power up the corner past the second bolt. Carry on up the groove and finish up right.

Note: Apparently a grip has broken off on this route and it is now significantly harder

Climbs the face to the left of 'Golden Goose' .

1. 15m 19 Climb a vague groove up the face between FUM and 'Golden Goose' to a narrow ledge (sparse gear).

2. 30m 26 Climb up on the left and then move right onto the face. Climb past a bolt on side-pulls and under-clings to the roof (peg). Pull through and continue up the corner above to a tree.

The wall to the right of 'The Cruise'.

1. 20m 26 Pull through a small overhang and climb straight up the face past a bolt, until able to move left to a friend rail. Continue up the right-trending break above.

Climbs the very overhanging wall on the true right of the kloof downstream of the main climbing area. This is where the kloof makes a turn to the left, but is upstream of the pinnacle.

1. [25/26] 15m Climb the steep corner/ crack past a peg to the top.

Climbs the center of the wall to the left of 'Picture Book' (about 80m left of 'Fallen Angel'). Scramble up to the base of the wall next to a tree.

1. 35m 26/27 Climb straight up the slab past a peg and 2 bolts to where it eases. Move up and left and climb the steep crack with a tricky move onto the arête. Scramble up 10m to a ledge and rap point.

50m downstream of the Cedarberg/Tonquani junction on the true left, is a gully. Scramble up the steep section of the gully and exit on the right (downstream) side of the gully onto a large ledge, immediately opposite the steep crack 'Reign Of Fire' . The route starts on the right of the ledge. The five mega bolts in a row make it very difficult to find!

1. 20m 26 Join the dots, the crux move being from bolt No. 5 straight up onto the ledge. Exit off to the right and scramble down.

About 100m downstream of the Mountain Club of South Africa signpost there is a buttress. There is a crack on the downstream side, climb the steep face 5m right of this crack.

1. [26] 10m Climb the face using 4 bolts.

Note:

Bolts replaced in 2005

Climbs the very steep wall about 25m upstream of 'Cedarberg Crescent' (i.e. 10m to the left 'Do You Feel Like We Do' ). Start near tree fern.

1. [26] 20m Up the recess to the rail. Straight up face past bolt to bucket. Move right and finish up vague notch/groove.

Climbs the pink wall and roof to the left of CALCANIUS.

1. 10m 26 Climb the wall, following the line of bolts, to the roof. Pull through and gain the ledge.

Descend as for SHANGHAI SURPRISE.

Climbs the steep smooth wall left of QUINTESSENCE.

1. 10m 26 Climb past two bolts to the right edge of a roof. Exit via the right-facing dihedral.

The gully above the lunch spot becomes a (dry) scoured waterfall just beyond LEMON (a chimney). BLADERUNNER climbs the thin double crack system up the steep grey wall between LEMON and the waterfall.

1. 20m 26 Step up right from a boulder and climb up to a roof (bolt). Follow the crack system to the second rail, then exit via the continuation of the left crack.

Note: Trust the bolts at your peril!

Start 2.5m upstream of DIVEBOMBER, more or less opposite a tall tree.

1. 8m 26 Pull through the overhang at 2m and climb straight up the face above, finishing via a small left facing dihedral. A selection of small wires is handy.

Next to ROOF OF ALL EVILS.

1. 15m 26 Climb up the face past five bolts.

Climbs very steep rock on the true right of SLAB GULLY, approximately 10m to the right of SUFFRAGETTE CITY and 5m to the right of HUNKY DORY.

1. 20m 26 Start up a short pillar and climb steep rock past 3 bolts to a horizontal break. Move 2m right and climb the corner above to a ledge

A superb though contrived variation to GLORY ROAD giving very hard climbing.

1. 25m 26 Start up GLORY ROAD. Climb crux of that route to the base of the flake. Follow the left hand crack exclusively to the top flake. Continue rightwards to the tree. Note: The right hand crack in the flake was not used at all. Using the right hand crack will make the route easier. (GLORY ROAD uses the right hand crack).

Climbs the face to the right of TOTAL ON-SNORT past the bolts to a rail. A good wire protects the finishing moves.

Steep line first opened on natural gear.

Starts on 'Vandals', uses the first 3 bolts of 'Vandals' then breaks right onto 'Hoodlum' and continues on 'Hoodlum' to the top.

A steep natural crack line just left of FABERGE. This becomes a jelly of wasps in winter. It climbs the crack directly above the boulder with a U-bolt in it.

Starts from the boulders just above the lower pool. There is a dyno start with the route going left and finishing up and around the corner. The old bolts still need to be removed and must not be used at all.

Just to the right of call of duty. "This line should never have been bolted" Ebert

Route begins at a half dead tree, runs up the right of a blocky light orange pink purple flat inclined wall. Sustained and wandering. Pumpy! MCSA/Boven Fund hardware. Opened on Trad.

Rebolted late 2016. 2nd, 3rd and 4th bolts seemed newer than the rest and was not replaced. May need a bolt between 4th and 5th. Take extra caution when attempting this line before more bolts are added.

Lurking at the top end of the main part of the kloof are some roofs on the right. This line cranks through the center of the ugliest one. 3 bolts. Traditional line, marked by bolts on the lip of a roof, near the top of the kloof. Bolts not replaced yet. Permission for full bolting has been granted on the condition of "not paving over the old route".

Use first 3 bolts of Mourn not Overmuch. Finish on the chains of Gollum.

Starts just right of the tree stump. a sustained route that climbs straight up to end on DONT DECK chains. Used to be 24 until a crucial hold broke off next to the second bolt. Possibly 26 now.

Climb up the arête.

Hard start. Eases up after 2nd bolt.

Powerful, big moves to big jugs, gate bending, dog bone munching line through a scoop/roof.

Very powerfull and bouldery crux.

project of Neil Margetts

Sit start lower left side of the vertical face and traverse right, linking to Grounded Goose. Grade still open to consensus.

Sit start lower left side of the vertical face and traverse right, linking to Darkened Duck. Grade still open to consensus.

Starts in a damp section between 'Deep Impact' & 'Pandora's Box' and leads onto marvelous meandering Mayhem magic.

From the gully, walk 15 m along the trail past the huge yellow-wood there is an ‘embankment’. The climb takes a discontinuous crack up a grey vertical face. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

Boven's finest in a nutshell: crack, arete, roof and sexy face. Amazingly sustained and epic moves throughout.

Starts directly right of 'Double Dealings'. Climbs inside the fin, out onto the face following a crazy fine line of crimps in the perfect sequence to keep you shuffling your feet.

[N, A] On the mini Godno wall. The direct start of 'Tartarus', starting on the ledge right of the tree in between the two open book cracks. Starts as for 'Elysium' and busts straight up instead of heading right into the 'Elysium' open book. Powerful move into an undercling crack, with powerful big moves in between big holds that follow. Amazing clean overhanging fun.

On the left of a small cave 4m right of 'Chimney Stack' corner, move through the bulge on sharp holds past 3 closely spaced bolts. Then what?!

A greatline. Pull a small overlap then head into the corner and race for the chains up steeper ground.

Climb first 5 bolts with 'Pretenders', clip the next 2 bolts and then finish at higher anchors for (harder) direct finish.

Start in a short overhanging corner, climb up this (burly) and up the nice wall above to below the upper roof. Stays dry in heavy rain.

Great climb to chains below the massive roof. Stunning moves up the corner and through roof, easier than it looks!

Start in the middle of God-No, a few meters left of 'Freak Show'. Climb the steep arete to a technical crux and bust through to chains under the massive roof.

25 if you can use your feet. This route starts in the corner just right of 'Chocolate Éclair'. Much better than it looks, a great climb. Start up the ramp and into the long overhanging corner behind the trees 20 metres right of 'Freak On'. Dry in all weather.

Between 'Rock-Chuka-Chick' and 'Big Bad Wolf'. NB: This route is 36m long. 70m+ The belayer needs to climb up onto the first ledge in order to lower the climber. MCSA bolts.

The desperate looking blank face.

Climbs a recessed face about 15m right of 'Dexter's Lab'. It is a powerful route and the crux is very hard if you have a small arm span.

2m right of 'Wicked'. Some of us were sandbagged when 24 was written at the base after the first ascent!

Starts behind a bush under an overhanging corner. A great line. Keep your thinking cap on for this route.

Starts on tree roots 20 m left of 'Snapdragon'. Tenuous lay-backs leads to great climbing through the roofs to the chains. Really good and not a giveaway!

Awesome. Starts on 'Rude Bushmen' or 'Welcome to Ovamboland', then go left and up to pass some overlaps, finishing ¾ height chains. A popular first 26.

Head up the left hand limb of the big white fig tree (below 'Soul Mandate'). Fight through the initial overhang and fire up the headwall above to the chains. There is potential to take the route through the massive roof above…

Start up the first 5 bolts of 'Miss Mckinley' and then head right.

Climb up the next route to the recess, rail 2m left and then up the headwall.

Start on the block below the obvious V-groove. Name written at base of the climb

At the right end of the ledge, climb up a few moves, and right around the corner to under a roof (awkward 3rd clip out left). Opened at 25!

The line right of 'Mercury Rev'.

Just to the right of the chimney-with-teeth. Airy at the top.

A classic finger crack, in the middle of the Restaurant crag. Retrobolted by Lobster himself. One of the first routes here.

The scoop just right of 'Slick and Shine'. Pre-clip the first draw.

A route with hangers just right of 'Lucifer Goes to the Gunks' and also sustained.

Trad line - no bolts. From the chains at the left edge of the ledge, head slightly right into the obvious break. Keep going.

From the chains climb up and thinly right. Go through the overlaps to the chains. Re-bolted in 2008.

Up the face then leftward through the overlap to a headwall crack that keeps on coming. 30m+ route, steep and sustained with great photo opportunities.

Climb the middle of the wall 2.5m right of the an open project. 30m right of 'African Odyssey'. The 3rd clip is tricky, a gripper, clipper, whipper - ground fall. Use the chains on the arête.

in a crazy wild place. The arête right of the 3 cracks. Permission has been granted for retro-bolting!

Same line as Queen of the Golgari, Skip the Dyno and travers out left.

Start on some sharp fins and go directly up the boulder

multiple traverses possibilities

Sit start on the layback with an edge for the left hand, climb directly up.

Start on "keep it tight" and traverse left to top-out on "Another way"

Start on the obvious sidepull on the left and go straight up.

Sit start on low jug and climb up cool overhang.

Same start as Ascension Avoided but go up left. Big balancy moves on decent crimps.

Stand start on the ledge and go straight up on crimps. The top out is a bit void of good holds

Sit start low on jug with high heel. Move up to jug and traverse left all the way and top out. FA Gary Lowther

Start on the far left of "ruined roof" but traverse right. FA Christoff Buys

Start as deep into the "cave" as possible. Push either both or one leg into the hole and start with both hands on the ledge closest to that hole. Follow the crack and stay to the right as you exit. Only use the crimps to the right of the crack in the roof.

Sit start on obvious crimps and climb up.

Start as Pelennor but go left to good edge under roof and up.

Sit start right hand on good hold and left hand on arete and climb up.

Start as up but head right.

start as middle threat but head up and right. Great climb.