Ascensões em Nacka Kvarn tendo Beta

I am not doing as well as I did last Fall or in years before, kind of embarassing.. Maybe not ideal conditions, my beta at the 3rd bolt feels wrong for clipping, and I can't find a rest after the intense start on the left anymore. The dynamic dead point crux after bolt 5 was going great on top rope last week but with the 5th bolt clipped I get pulled to the left and need to use my left foot where I thought the right should go. Intermediate crimp feels bad in humid weather but I need to pull up more on it. At the top: after clipping low on the 30mm edge, get pinch and bring feet up, get a left hold and there are 2 ok for a few seconds holds above the anchor.

eat up to final crux, cruise and solve!

Well when I looked at the tick list, only tall climbers had ticked it... Maybe a reason? The second bolt seems easy enough to clip, but the sequence to the left is a bit mind-boggling, and the sequence higher up seems impossibly reachy for the grade (I am 171 cm, +1). Only one old rusted quick link sits at the top for an anchor. Tried with clip stick and then on top rope (with a QD),

start was quite slippery especially with ice, grips did not feel remotely possible there. Further up, where sun hits the wall, it was more doable. Anchors were not visible but exist. Not sure I would try again due to fall potential, but some moves were nice, especially the sequence further up

took me more than a few tries, and I was in decent shape having gotten Panta Rei a few weeks before. feels a bit heavier than some 6b+ unless you're much taller. committing for the grade. Tried this over several years once a year or so

First RP attempt today and fell literally at the anchor because I messed up the feet haha. Make sure you memorise the final moves!

Climbed after worming and sending Tabu so was a bit pumped and misread crux sequence. Crux is such very good when you know the sequence.

It went! Despite the heat and lack of finger skin. Crimped hard and just went for it. Second proper attempt this session (after falling at the anchor on first attempt!) so five or six goes overall. Pretty chuffed with that. Top route with great crimps. My fourth or fifth 7b!

Always a great route and finger warm up. Climbed direct up the crack instead of weaving out to the left easier variation.

Nice little bicep warm up

Scared to do the third clip but did crux first go

Fucked up 3rd clip.. Nice sequence. Will have to come back

Fell on the final jug on my onsight attempt.. then took 4 more tries as short, bouldery route but fun!

2nd go. Fell at last move on the onsight

Second go. Very nice crux sequence.

Very beta specific but fun route despite the length! 6th go over 2 sessions (first a long time ago).

2nd go

harder than Direct Freaky, key feet at start now missing

Sketchy third clip, bolt positioning not the smartest but a genius line

Pumpy. Easy for the grade but needs endurance for the last clip or enjoy the flight!

Second go. Pumpy for 6c+!

Was pumped after working on Freaky Deaky Direkt so was pleased to get this on the second go after working out the crux beta

Sumpade onsighten på sista skicket, lite snopet. Gick stabilt på andra. Riktigt cool linje som jag lyckats missa under alla dessa år.

Långt ifrån onsight. Lätt på andra. Kort o kul - roligt att hitta nytt (för mig) på Nacka Kvarn!

FA

Nice (pumpy for the grade) warm-up

Ended up free solo downclimbing / faffing as no anchor haha

Lovely pumpy crimpy route

Bra led!

Fin och rätt oklättrad (?). Jag startade i Partaj och uteslöt det stora blocket/flaket helt och hållet. Då tyckte jag den höll 7a, trots att den gick ner på andra försöket. Väldigt skoj, tycker fler borde köra den!

Yes! Trodde jag var för klen för sista kruxet, men det gick med noggrann beta. Kort, men har så fina flytt att jag tycker den är den finaste på kvarnen för graden. Typ 4-5 pressen. Mkt nöjd!

Ganska fin, var på den nån gång förra året och då blev det bara konstigt. Nu satt den på första.

Kul grej! 2nd go.

YES!! På det sjätte smäller det, tydligen. Väldigt fin led från start till mål. Löste mittsektionen med en ordentlig catch som satt som en smäck. Rekommenderas superstarkt!

Yes! Där satt den. Kanonfin och valgraderad led. Starten är väldigt beroende av bra stick, så undvik när det är för varmt.

Andra försöket. Jättefin led - finare än Totalvägra enligt mig.

Andra försöket. Kruxet kommer på slutet

Tredje dagen, sjätte försöket. Gött

Väldig fint o teknisk. Gillar skarpt

Kul och teknisk.

Kort o krimpig!

En av fem leder 2012. ÄNTLIGEN!!!!

Riktigt fin led.

Repeat. En fin led helt klart

Repitition av min första 7a.