Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Popularidade | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Klein Furkahorn | |||||
{UIAA} 3 | Klein Furkahorn SW-Grat | 600m | |||
5a | ★★ Westplatten
1
3b
2
3a
3
3a
4
3c
5
3b
6
3a
7
3a
8
2c
9
3b
10
3b
11
3c
12
3a
13
3a
14
5a
Set: 1982 | 450m | |||
5c+ | ★ Verklemmter Bergschuh
1
5a
2
5c+
3
4c
4
4b
5
4a
6
4a
7
3b
8
2
9
4b
10
4b
11
5b+
12
4a
| 470m, 12, 10 | |||
4b | ★★★ Kreuzbandweg
1
4a
2
4a
3
4a
4
3b
5
4a
6
3a
7
4a
8
4a
9
4a
10
4a
11
2b
12
4a
13
4b
Follow red markers. | 470m, 13, 10 | |||
4c | ★★★ Glacier Express
1
4a
2
4b
3
4a
4
3a
5
4a
6
3a
7
4b
8
3c
9
4b
10
4c
11
3a
| 11 | |||
5a | Via Franz | ||||
Gross Furkahorn ESE-Grat | |||||
4c | ★★★ ESE-Grat
The first pitch has some bolts. After that it can be secured mostly with slings. A couple of small to medium friends are handy for extra protection. Some belays are bolted, others need to be set up. | 370m, 12 | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Via Evalin
| 370m | |||
Gross Furkahorn Kristall | |||||
5c+ | Querstion de temps
| ||||
6a | Ei de Kolumbus
1
5c+
2
5c+
3
6a
4
5a
| 4 | |||
5c | Winkelise
1
5c
2
5c
3
4a
4
4c
| 4 | |||
5c+ | ★★★ Kristall
1
5c
45m
2
5c
30m
3
4a
25m
4
5c+
33m
5
5c
30m
| 160m, 5 | |||
5c+ | ★★★ Jedem Tierchen sein Pläsierchen
1
5c
2
5c
3
5c+
4
5c
| 4 | |||
6b | ★★★ Schwarzgold
1
6a
2
6b
3
4a
4
6a+
5
6a
| 5 | |||
6a+ | Coronagold
1
6a+
2
5c
Variant to the right of the final two pitches of Schwarzgold. FA: Christof Klingler, 2020 | 2 | |||
5a | ★★★ Sorgechind
1
4c
2
5a
3
5a
4
4b
| 4 | |||
5c | Hippigschpänscht
1
5b
2
5c
| 2 | |||
5c+ | Marcopolo
1
5c+
2
5c+
5c+ (1p.a) | 2 | |||
5c+ | Frogor
1
5c+
2
4c
3
5b
5c+ (1p.a) | 3 | |||
Gross Furkahorn Joschi | |||||
5c | Di schnäll Muus
1
5c
2
5b
| 2 | |||
5b | Via Daisy
1
5a
2
5b
3
5b
| 3 | |||
6a | Däsentrieb
1
6a
2
5c
3
5c+
| 3 | |||
6b | Groovie Goofie
1
6b
2
5b
3
6a
| 3 | |||
6b | Milchstrasse
1
6b
2
6a+
3
6a
4
5c+
| 4 | |||
6a | Camel Trophy
1
6a
2
5c
| 2 | |||
5c+ | Sidelblick
1
5c
2
5c+
| 2 | |||
6a+ | Clockwork Orange
1
5b
2
6a+
3
4c
4
5c+
5
6a
| 5 | |||
5c | Mondchalb
1
5c
2
5b
3
5c
4
5c
5
4a
| 100m, 5 | |||
6a+ | Grenzgänger
1
6a+
2
4b
3
5c+
4
5c
5
5c+
| 5 | |||
5b | Gassi
1
5b
2
5b
3
5a
| 3 | |||
6a+ | Roby Dog
1
6a+
2
6a
3
5a
| 3 | |||
5c | ★★★ Trockenfutter
1
5c
2
5c
| 2 | |||
6a+ | Namasde
1
6a+
2
6a
| 2 | |||
Hannibal | |||||
7a | ★★ Long John
1
7a
2
6a+
3
6b+
4
5a+
Alpine Kletterei, Friends oder Keile können allenfalls nötig sein. Alpin Route, Camlots and Stoppers might be used. | 160m, 4 | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Hanimoon
1
5c+
45m
2
6a+
35m
3
6a
33m
4
6a+
25m
5
6a
35m
Alpine Kletterei, im Plaisirstil abgesichert, 12 Express benötigt. Alpine Route, well protected, 12 quickdraws. | 170m, 5, 12 | |||
6b | ★★ Elefantenruessel
1
5b
2
5c+
3
6a+
4
6b
5
6a
6
5
6a obl. Alpine Kletterei: Keile in den Grössen 5-9 sind nützlich. Alpin Route, stoppers (size 5-9) are useful. | 160m, 6 | |||
6c+ | ★★★ Fam Gni
1
5c+
2
6a+
3
5c
4
6a
5
6c+
Alpine Kletterei, Friends oder Keile können allenfalls nötig sein. Alpin Route, Camlots and Stoppers might be used. | 160m, 5 | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Conquest of Paradise
1
5c
30m
2
5c
25m
3
5b
30m
4
5c+
33m
5
6a+
27m
6
4c
15m
5c obl. ==[en]== stoppers (size 5-9) are useful may be used, but you can go without ==[de]== Keile in den Grössen 5-9 sind nützlich, aber nicht zwingend erforderlich | 160m, 6 | |||
6c | ★★ Kassensturz
1
5c+
2
6a
3
6b
4
6b+
5
6a+
6
6c
7
4c
Alpine Kletterei, Friends oder Keile können allenfalls nötig sein. Erste Seillänge und einige einfachere Passagen haben eher weite Hakenabstände, schwierige Passagen sind aber sehr gut abgesichert. Alpin Route, Camlots and Stoppers might be used. In the first pitch and the easy sections bolts are spaced rather far. Hard sections are well protected. | 150m, 7 | |||
s Naegeli | |||||
6a+ | Walk the Line
1
4b
2
6a+
3
6a+
4
4b
Set: Mike Stieger, Reto Glaus & Roman Schildknecht | 4 | |||
Galenstock | |||||
3c | ★★ SE-pillar
The pillar that climbs up to point 3365m. Head up Sidelengletcher until a snowfield leads up R onto the SE-pillar above Hannibal turm. Climbing starts at a short steep wall with some pegs (3). Then follow pillar up until point 3365m from there easy snow to summit. Descent: Follow rappels shortly below point 3252m marked with red arrow. 5-7 rappels down the steep S-face leads to Sidelengletscher. | 450m, 7 | |||
Galenstock Galengrat Süd-Wand | |||||
5c | ★★ Galengrat Verschneidung
1
5c
2
5a
3
5b
4
4b
5
5a
6
4c
7
5a
8
5a
9
5a
10
5a
Steigeisen und Pickel für Zustieg nötig. Mobile Sicherungen (Friends, Keile) nötig. | 400m, 9 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Lunar Impulse
1
6b+
2
6b+
3
6a+
4
6a+
5
6a+
6
3c
7
6a
8
5b
9
6a+
10
6a+
11
6a+
Steigeisen und Pickel für Zustieg nötig. Mobile Sicherungen (Friends, Keile) nötig. | 350m, 11 | |||
Galenstock Galenstock Süd-Wand | |||||
7b+ | Toro Rosso
1
7a
2
6b+
3
6b
4
6a+
5
6b+
6
7b+
7
6c
| 270m, 7 | |||
Galenstock | |||||
5b | ★★★ Südostgrat | ||||
Klettergarten Sidelenhütte | |||||
{UIAA} 4+ | Horäblick
Set: JO Gotthard, 2004 | 6 | |||
{UIAA} 4+ | Sidälätyfu | ||||
{UIAA} 4+ | Schliferi | ||||
{UIAA} 5+ | Poläntä | ||||
{UIAA} 6+ | Motivationschnebu | ||||
{UIAA} 4+ | LOGO | ||||
{UIAA} 5 | Famgam | ||||
{UIAA} 6+ | Turbo 4x4 | ||||
{UIAA} 6 | JoGo | ||||
{UIAA} 6 | Variante | ||||
{UIAA} 6- | Gagel Hagel | ||||
{UIAA} 3 | Sidälä Fidälä | ||||
{UIAA} 3- | Elefantenkante | ||||
{UIAA} 4 | "Wo ist Max" | ||||
{UIAA} 4 | Moritz | ||||
{UIAA} 5+ | Kameltriiber | ||||
6c | Eiertanz | ||||
{UIAA} 4 | Kröpflis Träumli | ||||
{UIAA} 3 | Svenja | ||||
4c | Gwüsst wo | 25m, 8 | |||
5b | ★★★ Gwüsst wie | 25m, 8 | |||
5a | Wurst | 25m, 8 | |||
5c | Gartenzwerg | 25m, 8 | |||
5a | Terri | 25m, 8 | |||
5c+ | Milo goes to College | 25m, 8 | |||
4c | Hänger | 25m, 8 | |||
3b | Rocker | 25m, 8 | |||
6a | Oha lätz | 25m, 8 | |||
3b | ★★ Rägeboge | 25m, 8 | |||
3a | ★★★ Schmätterling | 25m, 8 | |||
Gross Bielenhorn | |||||
6c | ★★★ Nolens Volens
1
6a+
50m
2
6c
30m
3
5b
35m
4
6a
35m
5
6b+
40m
6
6a+
25m
7
6a+
45m
8
5c+
25m
9
6a+
35m
FA: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 1987 | 320m, 9 | |||
6b | ★★★ Niedermann/Anderrühti
1
5b+
30m
2
5c
25m
3
6a+
45m
4
6a
40m
5
5c+
45m
6
5c+
40m
7
6a+
30m
8
6b
35m
9
5b
45m
10
6a+
30m
FA: Max Niedermann & Franz Anderrüthi, 1956 Maint: Marco Achermann, Pascal Kröpfli & Paul Zurfluh, 2005 | 370m, 10, 36 | |||
6c | Via Franziska
1
5c
25m
2
5c+
40m
3
6b
40m
4
5b
45m
5
4c
20m
6
5c
40m
7
6c
40m
8
6a+
40m
| 290m, 9, 11 | |||
6b+ | Fliegender Akku
1
5c
25m
2
5c+
40m
3
6b
40m
4
5b
45m
5
5a
30m
6
6b+
40m
7
6b
45m
8
6a+
40m
9
5c+
50m
| 360m, 9, 27 | |||
6a+ | Baumann | 320m, 9 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Curiosity | 320m, 10, 20 | |||
6b+ | Black Pearl
1
6a
2
6b
3
6a
4
6a+
5
5b+
6
6a+
7
6b+
| 7 | |||
6b | ★ Pinot Noir
1
6a
2
6b
3
6b
4
5a
5
6b
6
6b
7
6a
| 7 | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Südwand
1
6a
35m
2
6a+
30m
3
5c+
20m
4
5a
40m
| 130m, 4, 5 | |||
6a+ | La Figlia
1
5b
45m
2
5b
30m
3
6a+
35m
4
5b
30m
5
5a
25m
6
5a
45m
7
5c
25m
8
6a+
20m
9
5b
30m
10
5a
25m
| 310m, 10, 4 | |||
7a+ | Lötchers Alptraum
1
6a+
30m
2
5b+
30m
3
7a+
15m
4
6c
25m
Wilde, steile und schöne Risstour. Fels ist oben noch etwas brösmelig, muss mehr geklettert werden. In der ganzen Tour gibt es nur 3 Bohrhaken, alles andere kann gut abgesichert werden. Wild, steep and beautiful crack climb. The rock in the upper two pitches is somewhat flaky, needs more traffic. There are 3 bolts in the entire route, the rest can be protected well with gear. FA: Mike Schwitter & Sepp Heinl, 1989 Maint: Bradley Ransom & Livio Viggiano, Sep 2021 | 100m, 4, 3 | |||
5c+ | ★★ SE-Grat (Gross Bielenhorn)
Sehr schöne Gratkletterei mit einem herlichen Einblick zum Tiefengletscher. Die Route wurde im Jahr 2000 durch T. Zwahlen saniert. | 450m, 11, 20 | |||
Kleines Kamel | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Westkante
1
5a
2
5a
3
3a
4
6a+
from lowest point of western corner, 2. pitch slightly left around the corner, 3rd pitch right towards big ledge, crack to summit | 120m, 4 | |||
6c+ | Camelback
1
6c+
2
1
3
6a+
| 3 | |||
Chli Bielenhorn Schildkröten-Grat | |||||
4b | ★★★ Schildkröten-Grat
1
4a
2
3b
3
2b
4
4a
5
4b
6
3b
7
2b
8
4a
9
3c
10
3b
11
3a
Schöne Gratkleterei die sich als Einsteigertour eignet. Zum Teil sehr exponierte Stellen. Zudem lässt der Fels das Legen von Schlingen, Keilen und Friends zu. Die schwierigste Seillänge an der Klagemauer ist 4b 2p.a. (6c+) und wird meist mit Hilfe der Haken/artificial climbing mit Schlingen (Leiter) bewältigt. Unmittelbar links bietet sich eine leichtere aber exponierte Umgehungsvariante an. Material: 8 Expressschlingen, ein Satz Keile (5-8), 2er Friend, 2-4 120cm Bandschlingen, 2-4 60cm Bandschlingen. (Klar, es kann auch weniger Material mitgenommen und auf das Legen von Zwischensicherungen verzichtet werden). | 280m, 11 | |||
Chli Bielenhorn Südwand | |||||
6b | ★★ Roru
1
6b
2
6a+
3
6a
4
6a
5
5c
6
5c
7
5c
8
5c
9
6a
2x50m Rope, 12 Quickdraws, Cams 0.5-3.5 | 9 | |||
6b | Hägar
1
3a
2
6a+
3
6b
4
6a
FA: J. Fodor und D. Baumann, J. Fodor & D.Baumann, 1989 | 4 | |||
6a+ | ★★ Bella Donna
Komplett Clean außer Stände (Irnigerplatten) Erste Seillänge genialer Kamin. Topo: http://m.bergsucht.ch/products/chli-bielenhorn-belladonna-6a/ | 160m, 4 | |||
6c | ★★ Millius
1
6b
2
6c
3
6c
4
6b+
5
6b
| 220m, 5 | |||
6b+ | ★ Time out
Neuste Route. 7b (6a), 6b+, 6a+, 6b+, 6b+. Einstieg über Dach 7b, direkt bei Garfield ca. 6a. FA: HeinzMüller & HansGisler, 2021 | 200m, 5 | |||
6c+ | ★★★ Kater Garfield
1
5c
30m
2
6b
35m
3
6c
35m
4
6c+
30m
5
6c
30m
6
6c
35m
7
6a
35m
Set: Amadeo Rüedi & Raphael Imsand FA: E. Schönbächler & T. Müller | 230m, 7, 19 | |||
7b+ | NightSession
Achtung: kommt der Route Garfield oft sehr nahe. Viele Bohrhaken. FA: bunschi, 2019 | ||||
6a+ | ★★ November Traeumli
1
5b+
2
5c+
3
6a+
4
6a
5
5c+
6
6a+
7
5b+
8
5a
Orange Point on the start of the Route. Material: 2x50m rope, 10 Quickdraws, Cams 1-4, Rocks(Stoppers) 4-9 | 200m, 8 | |||
7a | ★ Dos Idiotas
1
6a+
2
7a
3
6b+
4
6b+
5
6b+
6
6a
7
6a
8
5c+
| 200m, 8 | |||
6a+ | ★★ Krampfader
1
6a+
30m
2
5b+
40m
3
5c+
15m
4
6a+
35m
5
6a
35m
Route grösstenteils clean, Stände mit Bohrhaken zum abseilen eingerichtet. FA: E. Schönbächler & T. Müller, 1983 | 160m, 5 |