Sheepstor Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Dan Matt Tranter Brendan Heywood Chris Johnson Andrew Stelmach Tim Barnden Krisztian Kormos Adam Campbell Gome Deb Rusbridge

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Sheepstor 17 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Sheepstor

Summary:

Sazonalidade

17 routes in Crag

<5 min

Mostly Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 50.495464, -4.023484

descrição

sheeps tor is a wall of vertical granite, split by cracks of all shapes and sizes. the climbs here are all worthwile, and provide a high concentration of easy to mid grade routes that are not too intimidating.

acesso

head towards Burrator reservoir (near to Yealmpton) once you get to the reservior head across the dam and follow signs to the hamlet of sheepstor. pass through the hamlet and take the first right onto open moorland. along the road there are several spaces to park. from here head up the hill to the crag.

	Route	Grade	Style
Ocultar Editar Add item to topo Administrador do croqui Vincular com este croqui Hide
1	Worker's Wall a fairly tough line that has some very good moves and feels much longer than it actually is. start at a crack system 5m right of the edge of the crag.	HS 4a	Trad 16m
2	★ Crack and Chimney the central line of sheepstors largest face is the crags best route. start at the foot of the highest point just to the left of the large slab.	S	Trad 16m
3	★★★ Wind Wall the thin crack in the upper wall above slab route is short but challenging. start as for crack and chimney	HVS	Trad 16m
4	★ Slab Route one of the best of its grade on dartmoor, start on the left hand side of the slab in the corner.	D	Trad 16m
5	★★ Slanting Crack a steep boot wide crack in the corner right of the slab. start beneath the crack.	S	Trad 14m
6	★★ Mushroom Wall the short but tricky route leading up the black wall to the right of the central arete	VS 5a	Trad 9m
7	Omega Crack a good old fashioned crack, start at the base of the first crack just to the right of the central arete.	HVD	Trad 9m
8	Burdock the capping overhang that runs right across the wall has a number of breaks that provide cruxes for all routes that cross it. start just right of omega crack	HS 4a	Trad 10m
9	Overhang Crack a much attempted line that sees some epics. start below the cracks that point the way to the middle break in the upper overhang.	S 4a	Trad 10m
10	Dandelion another good little pitch that is perhaps the easiest of the three severes on this section of the wall. start at the base of the crack that leads to the right of the overhangs.	S 4a	Trad 10m
11	Barking Crack a sheeps tor classic that is now very polished. start at the base of a very polished corner on the right hand side of the crag	HVD	Trad 9m
12	Sheltered Crack a well trodden and a un-intimidating climb, starting at the stepped corner.	D	Trad 9m
13	Play Crack	D	Trad
14	Girdle Traverse	VS	Boulder
15	Fingerin'	HVS 5b	Trad
16	★ Sheltered Arête	E1 5b	Trad
17	Sheltered Wall	E1 5c	Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
D		Play Crack	Trad
		Sheltered Crack	Trad 9m
	★	Slab Route	Trad 16m
HVD		Barking Crack	Trad 9m
		Omega Crack	Trad 9m
S 4a		Dandelion	Trad 10m
		Overhang Crack	Trad 10m
S	★	Crack and Chimney	Trad 16m
	★★	Slanting Crack	Trad 14m
HS 4a		Burdock	Trad 10m
		Worker's Wall	Trad 16m
VS		Girdle Traverse	Boulder
VS 5a	★★	Mushroom Wall	Trad 9m
HVS	★★★	Wind Wall	Trad 16m
HVS 5b		Fingerin'	Trad
E1 5b	★	Sheltered Arête	Trad
E1 5c		Sheltered Wall	Trad