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Followed this back in October 2021, today I lead this as my first ever trad lead. Took ages to find the right placements, but I made it up there cleanly. Still a nice climb.
Very nice route, two cracks, but no jamming required. A bit more scary to me than Wind tower, because the climbing is a bit more weird, but niceweird .
Could not do the one move when going from last good hold of the flake to the crack. The move exactly was matching the right hand into the crack. Did not try very long though. For next time, try switching feet first and jamming left hand more so that I am already turned in when matching right hand.
Second go on top rope. Cedar was on it so i thought I might as well join in as I wasn’t doing anything. Very fun, bouldery, intense crack climbing. A sandbag.
What a blast. Absolute bomber jams once you establish yourself in the crack just under the bulge. I feel the runout to the first piece of gear is a bit exaggerated, it's very easy terrain (I did the direct start, straight up) and the first piece is perfect.
Nice, easy route. Bring a #2 if you want to protect a small amount of runout on easy terrain before the anchor, but in my opinion no other gear is necessary with three well placed bolts and two solid-looking pins. The crux, to me, came just beneath the first bolt rather than pulling past the roof.