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Node |
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West Face |
5.9 Crack Face |
5.10c
★ Happy Face
A thin finger crack along an arête leads up to the first bolt. Continue up the arête for a couple of moves before climbing the face to the bolted top anchor. Pro: a couple of small pieces for the crack at the start. |
5.10b
★★★ Hyperspace
Pro to 1.5". |
5.10
Trumpled under Foot
Variation of 'Hyperspace'[20648887]. |
5.10a
Twist and Shout
Start to the right of 'Hyperspace'[20648887]. Climb up the left-facing ramp to the top of the pedestal, and clip the first bolt. Steep face moves to the second bolt are followed by a right-facing corner to the top. Pro to 2", including micro-nuts. |
5.11d
★ Back in Black
Start up the 5.6 chimney along the left side of the Lobe to meet the top of the 'Podium'[20649253] chimney. From here, a line of four bolts leads up and left. Powerful protected moves past the bolts are followed with a 40 ft of easy (5.6), runout climbing to the top anchor. Walk off, or descend with a 60m rope by rappelling to the anchors for 'Hyperspace'[20648887]. |
5.11b
★ The Man Who Fell to Earth
Start up the crack shared with the start of 'Only the Young Die Brave'[20649205], then traverse up and left along bolts. Difficult face climbing past large knobs takes you to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Only the Young Die Brave'[20649205]. Pro: a 1" cam for the crack at the start. |
5.11c
Only the Young Die Brave
Climb up the bolted arête with a crux above the 2nd bolt. 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'The Man Who Fell to Earth'[20649103]. Pro to 4". |
5.9
★★ The Podium
Fingers-to-fists crack leads to a wide chimney that leads up the right side of the Lobe, to the left of 'Pony Express'[20649151]. Descend by rappelling from the tree. |
5.11b
Under the Spreading Atrophy
Start just left of 'Pony Express'[20649151]. Tenuous moves on thinner and thinner holds lead up the bolted face to a thin crack. Traverse right and finish with the last 30 ft of 'Pony Express'[20649151] to the shared chain anchor. Often top-roped after climbing 'Pony Express'[20649151]. Pro to 3". |
5.9
★ Pony Express
Many parties just do the excellent first pitch. Pro to 3.5". |
5.12a
★ Cry Uncle
Thin edges on the bolted face lead up to a left-leaning 5.10d crack that is difficult to protect. Avoid fragile flakes. 2-bolt top anchor. Top-rope this route by climbing P1 of 'Pony Express'[20649457] first. Pro to 1", including micro-nuts. |
5.11a
★ Expresso
From the top of P1 of 'Pony Express'[20649457], continue left up the line of bolts. Rappel back to the top of 'Pony Express'[20649457] to descend. |
5.11b
Mackerel Sky
Ascends the face right of 'West Chimney'[20649505].
|
5.8
★ West Chimney
|
5.10a
★★ TM's Deviation
|
5.10c
Hard Right
Pro to 2". |
5.10d
★★ Pan Dulce
Pro to 2". Descend by rappelling back down the route, or traverse around to the right to finish on 'Harding's Chimney'[20650297]. |
5.12d
★★ Grand Delusion
A thin crack leads up to two bolts before traversing left past a row of pitons to a 2-bolt top anchor above a ledge. Pro to 1". Before it was freed, this was an aid route known as Scapegoat (5.8 A2). Top-rope this route by climbing 'Pan Dulce'[20649661] first. |
5.10b
★★ Fat Merchant Crack
Huge pro 5" to 12". |
5.9
★ Blind Faith
Start at the belay anchor atop P1 of 'Fat Merchant Crack'[20649769]. Follow the left-leaning corner up to the roof, then traverse right to finish with P3 of 'Bolee Gold'[20649985]. A dangerously sharp edge at the beginning of the traverse out of the roof has resulted in a fatal accident. The sharp edge may or may not still be there, but the risk can be mitigated by placing additional protection for the follower directly after the crux. |
5.12a
★★ Sugar Daddy
|
5.12a R
★★ The Ghost in the Machine
Descend with 60m rope in 3 rappels past top anchors for 'Pan Dulce'[20649661] and 'Grand Delusion'[20649721]. Pro to 3", including micro nuts and slings for knobs. |
5.11d
★ Ziplock
This horizontal line starts from the top of the first pitch of 'Bolee Gold'[20649985] and traverses directly left past 2 pitons. Small pro to 1". |
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