Voies dans Africa pour la cotation selectionnée

Share start with 'African Dream'

Share start with 'Dance of the Bushman'

Has one bolt and climbs a ridiculously thin seam through a bulge/roof.

A complex and sequential sport journey, not a give away at its grade! It was the first 31 in the country even though there was no 30 yet at the time. The direct start is grade 32.

Route tops out

Starts in the pit. Bouldery start leads to a half-height hard move which requires accuracy of movement and body tension to stick, or some sneaky beta... Compulsary showboat one-arm-hang clip of the 5th draw when sending for full pleasure.

Starts a few metres downstream of Tomahawk, off a large triangular rock. An intense start to a rest then a headwall with just enough holds on it. This sequence is a gift from god, totally brilliant.

Involves a large dynamic one move wonder crux. Falco will buy a case of beer for the 1st person to repeat the line.

knee pads recommended

Attacks the grey water streak you can see for miles. Scramble to the top of the chossy pillar then power up and pull on.

SD Sit start far under the roof to climb out of the cave. This route tops out.

Eliminate

The mega linkup; Red Dragon-Johnny-Blackout, by Wesley Black.

After the dyno of Red Dragon, head left through some steep terrain to join Johnny Keep Walking. After the crux of Johnny, head left and up from the roof before joining Blackout for the last 3 bolts.

Sit start with hands on the obvious lowest two flat crimps. Climb straight up via slopey crimps and edges and top out.

Sit start with L-shaped hold. Compress your way through the first few moves and top out on easy terrain.

Stand start below the blunt arete. Climb this using tricky lay backs and edges and top out. Avoid the sharp arete on the right...

Sit start version of out of time. Do not use the protruding rock.Start on a sloper moving up onto the face.Top out.

Starts on a boulder then a journey with 3 crowd-pleasing roofs. A must-do! MCSA bolts.

Direct version of 'Stitch it'. From the obvious slopey right hand side pull keep going straight up, slightly left on small holds. Leave the chalk bag behind. A power test-piece.

Start with your feet on the lowest boulders, preclip first bolt. Enjoy the intricate footwork and desperate stabbing for holds. Finish rightwards to for most fun.

Starts off the boulder. Climb up and pre-clip the 2nd draw. Dead-point your way to the chains.

Boven‟s 'King Line'. Climb up behind the tree to a ledge then the climbing starts. Up to a shake at a half height then a wicked 10-move boulder problem through the wonderful smooth rock, to good holds. One of the greatest climbs. 70 m rope needed. It is possible to move off-line to a jug far right just before the crux but this is a kop-out and would be graded 30/31.

Start up 'Monster' and move right at the 4th bolt. Some funky moves through the white roof, get a rest in the 'man trap' then finger jugs diagonally to the chains. 70 m rope needed. Low in the grade if you use all the latest tricks. Use slings on the bolts below the roof to reduce drag.

Not the Steve McClure 9a but pretty cool. Climbs 'The Beast' until 2/3 height then shoot straight up the strenuous crack. A nice variation on the original. 31 if you can get the jams right? use a 70m rope

Climb 'Chocolate Éclair' then continue over the roof with a grunt, then up the headwall. Some very satisfying and crimptastic moves. The route remains dry during heavy rain.

Starts off the same ledge as 'Tokolosie', or from the ground. Up the orange vertical wall past hard moves including a very defensive little hold, take a rest at the ledge then up the leaning headwall via some real sequency climbing. Don‟t get butchered. Solid at the grade.

The route up the middle of the face, was SA‟s hardest climb for many years and still one of the hardest lines in Boven. Solid at the grade, opened at 33. Steel fingers and ace footwork are required. 70 m rope needed.

The one that killed the 'Jabberwocky'. Crimpy and gymnastic climbing to the right of 'Jabberwocky', shares first bolt with 'Hell Yeah'. An unbelievable climb, one of best sport pitches in SA. Need a 70 m rope.

Starts 6m right of 'Snapdragon' and tackles the lovely looking smooth open corner using some rather small holds. Hard for the short.

Blasts straight up to top of the crag via awkward pulls in the roof. Opened using the left sequence at the crux but a sequence on the right is possible.

Does't look hard from below but an absence of any useful holds on the headwall gives plenty of spice. Solid 8b. Starts just left of 'Tripolactic Fairytales'.

Some bolts on the blank face above a ledge, left of 'Joy Division'.

The very steep bulge has a bolt in it and anchors and is open for anyone to try..if you feel inspired.

Starts up 'God of Small Things' then moves left then up on very small holds. Opened at 30! Alternative start bolted by A. Pedley, won‟t change the grade and nicer, being independent and direct. Opened at 30..! Needs a 2nd ascent.

Takes the line up the middle of the face on small holds. Superbly technical.

Starts from the big block right of 'Boa Rodeo'. One bolt protects the bottom crux followed by some technical, run out endurance sections.

Start next to a rock on the ground on your right, move left onto Dynomite and finish off

Start as for Hold the Chutney, but move up and rightwards to top out.

Sit start left hand on the arete feature, right hand on a poor sloper, slap your way up to better pocket holds

Another John Wessels spotted boulder. Start next to the small sapling power up and rightwards to finish on the arete. Hard at the grade.

Start as for E.C and traverse right across the boulder.

This problem was found by John Wessels, arguably the best 7B in Kaapsehoop! Start at the bottom, with a sharp rock jutting out. Campus start to doing moves onto slopers at the lip.

Start right hand on an edge and left hand on an awkward sidepull, traverse left on the boulder all the way ending on good holds to top out.

Sit start on left arete with left hand on good hold and right hand on rounded sloped edge. Compress up arete. (Pedestal is NOT in).

Start as for C.J, but traverse left and cross under pulling into the face on the other side of the boulder. Climb thinly up the face.

The 10 metre highball situated at the valley onward from Madam butterfly. Slopey pockets take you at the top. It remains un-repeated after being opened more than 10 years ago.

Sit start. Left hand on corner jug and right hand on an undercling in the back corner. Traverse right andtop out with a dynamic move up to a decent sloper with a lot of texture on it.

Climbs name come from the black heart you climb past.

start as warship but slap out left and climb left through buldge and up face on little crimps

Start far left under roof on jug and traverse right on some pretty poor holds.

Sit low on obvious jug and climb left and do a massive dyno to a perfect edge on the arete. Amazing.

Start as landslide but traverse right and finish as sedimentary. Pedestal not in.

Start to the right of Land claim. Start right hand on tiny undercling and left hand on flat undercling thats high. Do a big move up and right to jug.MORPHO FA Evan Margetts

Start on the slab on good jugs to the far right. Climb left and awkwardly on good holds and do a hard, big move to get through the gap and finish straight up overhang. Long and epic.

Sit start on good crimps. Go straight up.

Start on obvious jug and move out left via a big move and then trend back right on awesome crimps. A classic problem.

Start as the White tree but after big move go left and up.

Sit start on obvious low pedestal jug and climb up low roof.

Start as HHH but go left hand to a sloper and climb leftish up the face. Complex sequence. Pedestal not in.

Open project.

Short and bouldery power climbing through a 40 degree wall involving multiple varied cruxes.

Open project. 70m rope. Use knee pads and long draws to improve quality of life on this route.

Ask Damien if you can open it for him. Once you’ve both finished laughing, he might well say yes.

Sit down start, left hand diagonal pinch/crimp, right hand small low sidepull, up to a diagonal edge and up slightly to the right in scoop. The starting grip for the left hand has got smaller over time and thus is solid at its grade!

Start standing with left on a good edge and right on a small crimp, dyno up to edge slightly to the right and top out tending left. Can rip your right hand tape the joints to be safe.

Start in the obvious seam, top out with a good spotter. A classic! A crimp at the start has broken but it seems the grade remains unchanged.

Start standing in a scoop with your right in an undercling pocket at head height and your left in a small gaston lower down. Move up to a pocket and finish on jug above the pockets.

Low start on a sidepull for the right and shallow mono for the left up to heucos and crimps. Top out via some rather loose rock. Kilian repeated the problem thinking it was open (error in guide) and named it WEGNEEM, Damian had never given it a name.

Sit start with undercling for left and right in a one finger pocket inside the heuco. Move up to an edge on the right, take pockets and heucos to the bush. The big heuco on the right may need to be off-route.

Sit start if you can with your arms splayed below CHINESE PUZZLE TRAVERSE, starts with two sidepulls, up far to a big edge. Traverse to the top of CHINESE PUZZLE.