Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Jeu 9 Mai 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Riley Smith | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Spicy runout at the start!
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17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Jason Lu | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Classic Thursday arvo fun
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Dim 5 Mai 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - avec will chamonix | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Really nice and not that runout! Good gear!
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17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | |||||
This was definitely the most difficult gear placing and heady climb I’ve done in a long time. My forearms were fine, but my mind was completely pumped.
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Dim 28 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | |||||
Dim 21 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
26 |
★★★ Anxiety Neurosis P1
1
| 27m, 4 | |||||
So sick! I found the crux really quite hard
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Sam 20 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Anxiety Neurosis P2 Direct | 20m | |||||
Got to the last move on the onsight bumping to the jug at the crux and fumbled my feet and fell 😅 happy with that.
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26 | ★★★ Anxiety Neurosis | 27m, 4 | |||||
P1, stellar!
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26 Difficile | ★★★ Anxiety Neurosis P2 Direct - avec Michael Lehmann | 20m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
26 Difficile |
★★★ Anxiety Neurosis P1
- avec
Michael Lehmann
1
| 27m, 4 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Mer 17 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
17 R Facile | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Lun 8 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | |||||
perfect moves, will be back to lead asap. Start would be a bit spooky
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17 R | ★★★ Missing Link Direct Finish | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Sam 6 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Matt Wilson | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Sending the trip off with hands down the best pitch of climbing I've ever done. Felt like every edge and crack had been perfectly placed with climbing in mind.
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Jeu 4 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link Direct Finish | 30m | |||||
Mar 2 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
18 R | ★★ Preservative Added | 30m, 1 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
18 R | ★★ Preservative Added | 30m, 1 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Dim 31 Mars 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Connor | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Excellent climbing. Definitely deserves the R rating IMO, if one (pretty average) piece popped you’d be pretty close to the ground if not a soft deck. The smallest of micro cams might have helped protect this section
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Sam 30 Mars 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
18 R | ★★ Preservative Added | 30m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Spooky, wait how is missing link R and this isn’t hahahah
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Jeu 28 Mars 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | |||||
Pretty spicy with a single rope, ground falls from 5m up are not ideal. Should have read the crag first 😆
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Sam 27 Jan 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Tim Schofield | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Did the direct finish. For the first 2/3rds of the climb I placed only small wires and nothing larger than a 0.3 Camalot. It definitely felt like the R rating was deserved, and there was significant ground fall potential at the beginning of the climb. However, the traverse (which was easy) was actually not as scary as the unprotected, first 3 metres of climbing (which was one of the hardest parts of the climb) where I thought I might pitch off and land on the rocks below. I would recommend considering protecting the very beginning of the climb on abseil and stick clipping the first piece.
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Ven 5 Jan 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Dim 19 Nov. 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Rob Carlin | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Dim 12 Nov. 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | |||||
How the hell has anyone done this thing no hands. I refuse to believe it.
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17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
17 R ~15 | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
I think is was blown out of proportion. Deffs a heady lead but there is plenty of gear.
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Sam 14 Oct. 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
A bit bold (would have wanted some RP's) but beautiful rock and stunning line!
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Dim 1 Oct. 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Ven 29 Sept 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | |||||
18 R | ★★ Preservative Added | 30m, 1 | |||||
Mar 26 Sept 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Nacho | 30m | |||||
Dim 17 Sept 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Seconded this 20 years ago, fun to do now with plenty of thought provoking gear placements.
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Lun 10 Juil 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Lun 26 Juin 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | |||||
Sam 10 Juin 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
26 Difficile | ★★★ Anxiety Neurosis — 3 essais - avec Nick Murphy, Brent Anderson | 27m, 4 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Still think this thing is hard
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Mar 23 Mai 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Munya Johnstone | 30m | |||||
Lun 22 Mai 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Andrew souris, Nate, Nick | 30m | |||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | |||||
First half felt like an ornamental solo
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Dim 14 Mai 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
18 R | ★★ Preservative Added | 30m, 1 | |||||
Cause why not
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Jeu 11 Mai 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Dim 30 Avr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
26 ~25 | ★★★ Anxiety Neurosis P2 Direct — 2 essais - avec Brent Anderson | 20m | |||||
Gravelly in places which was a challenge for 3rd day skin, but climbs really well in a stonker of a location. Super-soft touch though - the "26" section has two moves that are hard-ish but come after a good rest anyway.
Very nearly 2nd shot on TR despite much faff'ing about - will come back and redpoint (or even place on lead - don't think that would be any harder tbh) at some point soon I hope. |
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Lun 24 Avr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Ben | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Mer 19 Avr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
18 R | ★★ Preservative Added | 30m, 1 | ★ Bon | ||||
Mar 18 Avr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Rob Watson | 30m | |||||
Sam 15 Avr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R Facile | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
I’m sure the climbing was enjoyable, but you’d wanna be VERY confident at the grade to consider leading it.
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Ven 14 Avr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | |||||
Sam 8 Avr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | |||||
26 Difficile | ★★★ Anxiety Neurosis — 5 essais - avec Mikey Musch | 27m, 4 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Attempted pitch 1 only. Lovely 3 dimensional climbing out to the traverse, then some weird stuff to get around the arete (hint, gym climbing won't help you) where we got shut down. Think I've got it figured though and can't wait to go back. 2nd pitch looks mega, will definitely try to do both pitches (in succession) if I ever get through the first bit.
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Ven 7 Avr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | |||||
Sam 4 Mars 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Lun 23 Jan 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Done with pre placed gear 'sport climbed it'
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Mer 18 Jan 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Yao Wang | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Unfortunately bouldered the first few moves to see about initial gear so this ruined the onsight. Apart from this loved every meter climbed on this wonderful route. Made me wonder why i hesitated so long to attempt it. Guess this is what guide book descriptions can do to you 🙂
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Jeu 12 Jan 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link Direct Finish - avec dylan | 30m | |||||
18 R | ★★ Preservative Added - avec dylan | 30m, 1 | |||||
Mer 4 Jan 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Pedro Manuel | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
instead of left or right exit, I went straight from the middle apparantly
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Lun 26 Déc 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Ziggy | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Mer 21 Déc 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | |||||
18 R | ★★ Preservative Added | 30m, 1 | |||||
Mar 20 Déc 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Mar 13 Déc 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Sam 26 Nov. 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Jeu 27 Oct. 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | |||||
Mar 11 Oct. 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Lun 3 Oct. 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Harley Mills | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Sam 24 Sept 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Tom Scott | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
My second time doing this one and just as enjoyable! Still can't believe Johnny Dawes did this no hands!!
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Ven 23 Sept 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Carleigh Burns | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Jeu 19 Mai 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Aurora Pandora | 30m | |||||
stoked i look like a hard piece test nut climbing all these R rated things on the crag. let's get a quick shoutout to the guidebook that doesn't use R ratings, and rather provides cryptic suggestions as to risk. the gang also decided this climb is undeserving of the three stars awarded in the guidebook. make it a two star nightmare like the other two star nightmares (more on my two star theory later).
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17 | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Great climb although on my opinion I wouldnt give it 3 stars.
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Mer 11 Mai 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Lun 9 Mai 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | |||||
Mer 4 Mai 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Dim 24 Avr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Nia O'Connor, Ryan Gaskon | 30m | |||||
18 18 R | ★★ Preservative Added - avec Nia O'Connor, Ryan Gaskon | 30m, 1 | |||||
17 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Justin Wimmer | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
If this climb had some more gear I think I would rate it a mega classic. But small gear and a few run outs made it a pretty heady climb for me.
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18 | ★★ Preservative Added - avec Justin Wimmer | 30m, 1 | ★ Bon | ||||
Not as nice as missing link. Also more run out
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Ven 22 Avr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Anxiety Neurosis P2 Direct | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Very different style to P1
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26 |
★★★ Anxiety Neurosis
- avec
Bradd Jimmink
1
26
40m
2
26
| 40m, 4 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Unreal!!! Never in a million years did I envision getting on this. Fortunately Brad brought the psyche and I now have another unforgettable memory to add to the collection out here. Came within millimeters of onsighting P1 then stoked with the flash of the 26 finish of P2
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Ven 15 Avr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
A lap on top rope with Domme and Jana.
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Jeu 14 Avr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Mer 13 Avr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | |||||
18 | ★★ Preservative Added | 30m, 1 | |||||
Mar 12 Avr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Dim 10 Avr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Sam 9 Avr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | |||||
retro log
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Ven 8 Avr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Scary gear... think I'd solo this before leading it.
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Jeu 7 Avr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
The old amnesia onsight after toproping it years ago
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Lun 20 Déc 2021 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | |||||
Mer 15 Déc 2021 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Need to lead for full experience
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Dim 12 Déc 2021 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Grace Mackie | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
pretty spicy for the grade. Mostly decent gear, but often quite spaced out. Even after having rapped down it beforehand while descending from Thunder Crack and checking out some of the gear, it still felt pretty stiff.
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Ven 10 Déc 2021 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | |||||
Dim 5 Déc 2021 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
good stuff 10/10
|
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17 | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Nick Eckman, Eric | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
17 | ★★★ Missing Link - avec Miranda | 30m | |||||
Struggled!
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Dim 28 Nov. 2021 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Fantastic and engaging! Absolute pleasure
|
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Mar 25 Mai 2021 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Start to the mega classic day on this tenuous quality climb
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Dim 23 Mai 2021 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||||
17 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classique |