Voies dans Bluff Major North Face

Start up Very Anxious then before joining Anxiety Neurosis move L under the roof and blast through the roof and up the overhanging wall above staying between Kama Sutra and AN. Finish at AN p1 loweroffs or continue up any pitch above to the summit. FA early noughties IIRC ... clarification welcome.

Sounds like it might be serious, or maybe it's just that Louise was having a go at Kim's psyche. Who knows. Start down L of AN and go straight up to join AN at it's crux. Finish at AN pitch 1 lower-offs.

Start at the first belay of AN. Up the face just L of the arete (the arete being p2 of AN). Then join a sickle with a fixed wire. Sparse pro. Finish at lower-offs above AN pitch 2.

Start under the R side of the low overhang on the N arete of Bluff Major.

1. 15m (26) Head out left past 2 high FH's and an unnecessary, rusty carrot that's pulling out, then step down and left to arete before heading back upwards again to ledge with lower-offs.

2. 12m (24) Great pitch up the arete past a few bolts, go L at the top for the grade 24 version, or direct for the grade 26 version (listed separately here but now the accepted finish), to lower-offs on top.

From the anchor of Anxiety P1, head straight up the arete on its right side, but instead of deviating out left in the last two-thirds (original finish), keep trucking up the arete all the way, to lower-offs.

As for AN but follow the original aid line up leftwards from the 2nd FH - don't drop down to get to the arete. Bouldery. Start as for AN.

Bolted by Kimbo decades ago, this long-standing problem succumbed to the short strong bloke with dreads. Start as for Anxiety Neurosis and boulder direct through the bulge to the start of Bounds and finish up it or Anticipation.

Start 2-3m L of Missing Link.

1. 25m (22) Up over low roof then short flake for 6m, then traverse left above the roofs past a FH to belay as for Anxiety Neurosis. A 4 camalot is handy at the start.

2. 20m (22) Step L and climb a thin seam which is just R of pitch 2 of Kama Sutra, and just L of Holy Moses.

Follow Anticipation towards AN, as far as a ledge with a FH. Now go straight up disconnected seams to a bolt then step L to bulging crack, finishing at lower-offs above ND. Needs plenty of #3 RPs.

Up ND but instead of trending R go up then L, very bold, to lower-offs.

Eddy Mofardin has also climbed a variant, perhaps a bit further left of Roland's line, but this could do with clarification. Eddy

Start as for A. Up to the top of the flake then step down and go L, and up a seam with tough moves into a R-leaning sickle. This line actually joins Preservative Added about here, but next you need to trend L up the steep headwall to lower-offs.

An extremely rare case of Kevin aborting a ground up trad route in order to resort to a bolt placed on rap. But then again he was probably about 12 at the time so we'll excuse him this time. Start as for ML. Pro requires care before the bolt.

The low traverse makes it essential to use double ropes if you wish to avoid groundfall potential. After that the gear becomes more heartening, and the climbing is great. Start in the middle of the West face of Bluff Major, where the ground is at it's highest point. Finish direct to chains on R side of summit boulder, or slightly easier to L side of boulder. Please don't toprope direct off the chains as they see a lot of traffic.

Ann Pauligk's bold early-mid 1970s ascent may have been the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

Start as for ML. After the initial traverse, go straight up the whole way, finishing 5m R of the capping boulder.