Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | |||
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Dim 28 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Die Loaded | 30m | |||||
Suuper stoked! Last climb for the trip, felt like squeezing a fart through a straw. Finally managed to not let go at the end of a crux.
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Jeu 25 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
9 | ★ Exploding Tomatoes | 25m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Solid route with good pro options.
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9 | ★ Exploding Tomatoes - avec Jade Farren, Pete Edwards | 25m | ★ Bon | ||||
another lower grade climb that gives very full value
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24 Difficile | ★★ Paladin — 2 essais | 16m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
So damn good. Really psychically hard, but not for too long. The finger buckets come and everything is nice again. Quite stoked on this one
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Ven 19 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
9 ~10 | ★ Exploding Tomatoes | 25m | ★ Bon | ||||
Cruxy move for a 9. The rest is chill.
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Lun 15 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Paladin | 16m | |||||
Punted the onsight on the final move of the boulder, tricky to read. Went to the top after a rest.
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Mar 9 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 ~25 | ★★ Paladin — 3 essais - avec Michael Thorley | 16m | |||||
The last go was my best go and was most likely going to be the last attempt for this trip.
I kept getting shut down on all the past attempts so did not have any faith in this last go but as I got ready and set off in the late evening as the sun had just gone down I thougt I would have enough light but as I reached the crux I realised the light faded alarmingly faster than I anticipated. So I set the pro in the start of the crux and quickly moved on with only barely enough light to make out the smear feet I use after the first few jams. Amazed and relieved I had gotten through the crux and after a short rest the light had finally gone so I placed the last few bits of gear by feel before finishing of on the easy ending while trying to feel for the little foot chips I would normally be able to see.
My first trad project was a roler coaster but glad it came together.
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Sam 6 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Paladin - avec Jason Capenecas | 16m | |||||
Well beyond my current level but had a feint semblance of being possible one day.
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24 | ★★ Paladin - avec Jason Capenecas, Michael Ave | 16m | |||||
Definitely the hardest move is placing the crux nut!
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Ven 5 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 Difficile | ★★ Paladin — 2 essais - avec alex doyle | 16m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Nails. Crux was placing the gear. Nice to finally get this.
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Jeu 4 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 ~25 | ★★ Paladin | 16m | |||||
Big TRS sesh to try sort out beta
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Mer 3 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Paladin | 16m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Went for a send attempt, fumbled the .4 placememt before the crux and couldn't reach the trigger. By the time I had fixed it I had worn through my power... tried to recover off the decent jam but just pumped out on the LH jam in the crux.
Tried again from the ground and made it no further... aided through the crux and then cruised the top even being pretty jacked.
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Mar 2 Avr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Paladin | 16m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Projecting with Chris Speer. Sorted some functional but heinous jam beta through the crux, involved placing a pink dmm nut mid crux off the first finger lock.
Can easily climb all the route but the crux which is so powerful that I only have a few burns until it's impossible. |
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14 Facile | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec James Vinnicombe | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Very fun route
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Dim 31 Mars 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec Lawrence Wonhas | 25m | ★ Bon | ||||
Really worth doing. Great moves and holds. Placed way more gear than I thought I would when I found the strife.
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Mar 19 Mars 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Life in the Fast Lane | 25m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Played a couple of moves pre placing, went first go. Excellent.
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Mar 12 Mars 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Paladin — 2 essais | 16m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
All moves done…multiple rests …a project is born…,
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Dim 17 Déc 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
15 | ★★ Two Pitches to Glory - avec Otto K | 18m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Otto couldnt be convinced to do three pitches to glory so we settled on this. Oh well, still a mega classic
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15 | ★★ Two Pitches to Glory - avec jonah ovadia | 18m | ★ Bon | ||||
Glory indeed. Done in two pitches as god intended.
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Ven 8 Déc 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 Difficile | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Lovely moves with mostly excellent protection. Beware the sizeable hollow-sounding pillar 1/3 of the way up, while it's probably necessary to pull on it, I wouldn't place pro behind it!
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Dim 15 Oct. 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Paladin - avec Anthony Cuskelly | 16m | |||||
Beta sorted, gear sorted and crux moves all linked. The rain and time constraints cancelled any further attempts.
Found some very specific jamming beta that eliminated most of the technical laybacking… thank you Wild One for your flared jamming lessons! |
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Sam 14 Oct. 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Paladin — 2 essais - avec Anthony Cuskelly | 16m | |||||
A flash attempt was quickly snuffed out by the starting boulder. The crux crux seems doable, just need some beta and then lead attempts!
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Sam 7 Oct. 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
9 | ★ Exploding Tomatoes | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
A bit spicier than expected. Overall super fun and engaging. Descent looked a bit sketchy so preferred to walk up to the tree to rap down.
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Mar 26 Sept 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Life in the Fast Lane | 25m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Headlamp EOD attempt. Great! After the inconsequential start, this is rad and engaging all the way to the topout
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24 | ★★ Paladin | 16m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
2nd shot. Brutally hard through the short crux, but otherwise unremarkable. A good challenge to solve, but on balance I wouldn't say I enjoyed it.
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Sam 12 Août 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Belay ledge at the top is choice.
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Mar 11 Juil 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
9 | ★ Exploding Tomatoes | 25m | ★ Bon | ||||
Downclimb
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14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Around and around we go...
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15 | Tear Jerker | 16m | ★ Bon | ||||
Because it was there
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15 | ★★ Two Pitches to Glory | 18m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Somewhere between a Cool down and a warm up.
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Lun 26 Juin 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train | 25m | ★ Bon | ||||
Good movement, almost as good as horn peice??
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Sam 17 Juin 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
10 ~14 | ★ Rhys' Pieces | 21m | ★ Bon | ||||
I'm not climbing well at the moment but this is way under-graded and quite run-out. Probably harder than SOTGT. Luckily my leader is a pretty calm and collected.
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Lun 12 Juin 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec nic | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
pumpy for the grade, fun
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Ven 26 Mai 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
I really like this line
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Dim 14 Mai 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
9 | ★ Exploding Tomatoes | 25m | ★ Bon | ||||
2nd route off the session ..
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14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Route 3 of the day.
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Mar 9 Mai 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Paladin - avec Byam K | 16m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
At long last I've graduated Simey's 'Jamming School', I will now enjoy aimlessly wandering around the mount in search of even more cracks
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Dim 7 Mai 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
12 | Please Be Kind | 20m | Pas la peine | ||||
Booty!
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Mer 26 Avr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Two stars isn't generous this route is class
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Mar 25 Avr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Die Loaded | 30m | |||||
went ground up, took my first lead fall. gotta come back and finish it off
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Dim 23 Avr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 ~25 | ★★ Paladin — 2 essais | 16m | |||||
Couldn't do the crux
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Lun 17 Avr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec Miranda | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Really nice jug hauling up a seemingly trash looking line.
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24 Difficile | ★★ Paladin - avec Alex Lawson | 16m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Very hard. Didn't quite have enough time at the end of the trip to really put it together and attempt a lead. But got all the gear and moves dialled. Ended up figuring out some good beta to jam through the crux rather than do the desperate layback. One to come back for.
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Dim 16 Avr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train | 25m | ★ Bon | ||||
quite nice
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Jeu 13 Avr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec Jet Winter | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Fun climb. The vertical crack was a bit of a puzzle but pretty easy once I had the beta sorted.
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Dim 9 Avr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Paladin | 16m | |||||
Blew the onsight mid crux, think i've figured it out now
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Dim 2 Avr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
spicy sometimes
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Sam 25 Mars 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
9 | ★ Exploding Tomatoes | 25m | ★ Bon | ||||
First route of the season. Nice.
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14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Nursing a back injury... feeling strong...
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Dim 5 Fév 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
9 | ★ Exploding Tomatoes - avec Dan Bodd | 25m | |||||
this is a climb
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Mer 4 Jan 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec Daniel Smith | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Daniel's lead. Beautiful moves on this little gem.
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Jeu 13 Oct. 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
9 | ★ Exploding Tomatoes - avec Dil | 25m | |||||
Gear retrival system climb.
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Dim 25 Sept 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Fun climb. Psyched myself on a move and rested on a nut, saw the hold I missed then went for it. (Note to self to down climb) Head game wasn't good on this climb but good to push through and problem solve.
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Sam 24 Sept 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec Claire Evans | 25m | |||||
Nice climbing, nice exposure
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9 | ★ Exploding Tomatoes - avec Claire Evans | 25m | |||||
Little bit exposed, nice line
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14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec Tom Scott | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Great start to the day. Good to lead, decent stances, good enough pro.
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14 | ★ Three Pitches to Glory - avec krisi | 15m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Good Value!
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Ven 16 Sept 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec dave | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Fun varied climbing. Pretty engaging in high winds
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Lun 15 Août 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
13 | ★ Sob Story - avec Tom | 16m | |||||
Surprisingly fun!
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24 | ★★ Paladin - avec Tom | 16m | |||||
Crux seemed absolutely nails. Desperate laybacking while trying to stop the barn door with shit feet. One for the future
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Lun 11 Juil 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
9 | ★ Exploding Tomatoes | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
surpisingly fun, very cool no feet swing part near the start. hard downclimb for a 9 tho
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Mar 28 Juin 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec Weoutthere | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
“Incredible” by general levy plays loudly in the foreground
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Lun 27 Juin 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec Kate Proctor | 25m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
nothing amazing
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Sam 25 Juin 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train | 25m | |||||
First lead post baby, yay!
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Mar 31 Mai 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec Mosa | 25m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
got in some strife in the middle, lots of fun though!
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Mer 25 Mai 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
13 | ★ Sob Story | 16m | ★ Bon | ||||
A fun little climb
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24 | ★★ Life in the Fast Lane | 25m | ★ Bon | ||||
A good way to exhaust ourselves before/ as the rain hit with a couple of runs on this. Shame about the ledges.
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Sam 21 Mai 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Life in the Fast Lane | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
What a treat. If the ledge wasn’t there or I had 4 grades in reserve I’d be comfortable doing the crux without pre-placing a piece. Maybe one day.
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Ven 6 Mai 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec Buncey88 | 25m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
great climb
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Mer 27 Avr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
9 | ★ Exploding Tomatoes | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
one move that felt committing after not leading for a while but it was fine
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Ven 22 Avr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec Ryan Gaskon | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Jugs and bomber gear the whole way!
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Mer 20 Avr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
worth the two stars. fun
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Mar 19 Avr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec Caleb Skirrow | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Some excellent mingling
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Ven 1 Avr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
9 | ★ Exploding Tomatoes - avec Sarah Pitt | 25m | |||||
One move harder than 9 otherwise easy climbing
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Dim 5 Déc 2021 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Paladin | 16m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Slick, stoked to have done it in a day felt pretty nails at first. 4 shots. Didn't jam at all in the end
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Lun 9 Août 2021 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train | 25m | ★ Bon | ||||
With Luisita
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15 | ★★ Two Pitches to Glory | 18m | ★ Bon | ||||
With Luisita
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Sam 12 Juin 2021 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
10 | ★ Rhys' Pieces - avec Ange | 21m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Mini dyno halfway up.
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9 | ★ Exploding Tomatoes - avec Ange | 25m | ★ Bon | ||||
Bit scary halfway
|
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Mer 14 Avr 2021 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Paladin | 16m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
hard desperate, not yet
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Sam 3 Avr 2021 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec cassady | 25m | ★ Bon | ||||
1 star. Few good moves.
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15 17 | There is no Dog - avec Aiden Hamilton | 25m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
only a grade 15, but a good climb
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Jeu 27 Août 2020 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Die Loaded - avec Jed Parkes | 30m | |||||
This is the type of route that is not that pumpy once you have the moves sorted, but it slowly wrings all your energy and will to live out of you. The crux is fairly high, so by that time it was mainly a mental battle to resist the strong desire to just melt off. Felt great to send though :-D
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Mar 25 Août 2020 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Die Loaded | 30m | |||||
Sussed out the gear so I wouldn't have a repeat of what happened on Strolling. One rest.
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24 | ★★★ Die Loaded | 30m | |||||
Toproped it clean while placing the gear. Should've just led it. Oh well.
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24 | ★★★ Die Loaded | 30m | |||||
Toproped it clean while taking the directionals out.
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Mar 28 Juil 2020 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Die Loaded | 30m | |||||
Did all the moves with numerous rests. Felt hard but doable, will return to it.
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Ven 19 Juin 2020 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
13 | ★ Sob Story | 16m | ★ Bon | ||||
Surprisingly good
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Dim 1 Déc 2019 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec Guillaume S, Ti Jung Chang | 25m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Steep and airy for the grade
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9 | ★ Exploding Tomatoes - avec Guillaume S, TJ | 25m | ★ Bon | ||||
In the rain!
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24 | ★★ Paladin | 16m | |||||
Top dogging.
|
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Jeu 28 Nov. 2019 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Paladin | 16m | ★ Bon | ||||
Samson finally earnt his ice-cream
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Sam 19 Oct. 2019 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec John Henry | 25m | ★ Bon | ||||
John missed all the holds out left on the headwall, wonder how hard that makes it?
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Lun 14 Oct. 2019 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
9 | ★ Exploding Tomatoes | 25m | ★ Bon | ||||
Not bad of a route, Emma's first lead
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Mer 9 Oct. 2019 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train | 25m | ★ Bon | ||||
Nice climbing, idk about 2 stars worth though
|
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Lun 7 Oct. 2019 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec Stephen Carter, Josh Ring | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
really nice moves. Lead by Steve
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Jeu 25 Avr 2019 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec Mitch | 25m | ★ Bon | ||||
Guiding mates.
|
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9 | ★ Exploding Tomatoes - avec Mitch | 25m | ★ Bon | ||||
Guiding mates.
|
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Dim 21 Avr 2019 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - avec oliver kerr | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Very enjoyable climbing! A tricky scramble down the back though.
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24 | ★★ Paladin - avec Kate Riordan | 16m | ★ Bon | ||||
Took me a bit to work out a sequence and then three shots to actually send it! Desperate! I'm kinda glad I didn't get through the crux on the onsight, it would have been damn exciting trying to place gear with the slippery feet. I had placed a nut right in the middle of the crux whilst hanging on the rope - utterly impossible to do otherwise.
|