Ascents in Wailing Wall having Beta

TRS session

Things that this route hurt:

*My fingers

*My toes

*My right shoulder

*My feelings

Super cool though, did all the moves, sorted out the gear though I have no clue how you'd place the crux nut. Did it clean from the bottom of the crux to the end a few times. Keeeeeeeeeen.

sick moves

Suuper stoked! Last climb for the trip, felt like squeezing a fart through a straw. Finally managed to not let go at the end of a crux.

Solid route with good pro options.

another lower grade climb that gives very full value

So damn good. Really psychically hard, but not for too long. The finger buckets come and everything is nice again. Quite stoked on this one

Cruxy move for a 9. The rest is chill.

Punted the onsight on the final move of the boulder, tricky to read. Went to the top after a rest.

The last go was my best go and was most likely going to be the last attempt for this trip. I kept getting shut down on all the past attempts so did not have any faith in this last go but as I got ready and set off in the late evening as the sun had just gone down I thougt I would have enough light but as I reached the crux I realised the light faded alarmingly faster than I anticipated. So I set the pro in the start of the crux and quickly moved on with only barely enough light to make out the smear feet I use after the first few jams. Amazed and relieved I had gotten through the crux and after a short rest the light had finally gone so I placed the last few bits of gear by feel before finishing of on the easy ending while trying to feel for the little foot chips I would normally be able to see. My first trad project was a roler coaster but glad it came together.

Well beyond my current level but had a feint semblance of being possible one day.

Definitely the hardest move is placing the crux nut!

Nails. Crux was placing the gear. Nice to finally get this.

Big TRS sesh to try sort out beta

Went for a send attempt, fumbled the .4 placememt before the crux and couldn't reach the trigger. By the time I had fixed it I had worn through my power... tried to recover off the decent jam but just pumped out on the LH jam in the crux. Tried again from the ground and made it no further... aided through the crux and then cruised the top even being pretty jacked.

Projecting with Chris Speer. Sorted some functional but heinous jam beta through the crux, involved placing a pink dmm nut mid crux off the first finger lock.

Can easily climb all the route but the crux which is so powerful that I only have a few burns until it's impossible.

Very fun route

Really worth doing. Great moves and holds. Placed way more gear than I thought I would when I found the strife.

Played a couple of moves pre placing, went first go. Excellent.

All moves done…multiple rests …a project is born…,

Otto couldnt be convinced to do three pitches to glory so we settled on this. Oh well, still a mega classic

Glory indeed. Done in two pitches as god intended.

Lovely moves with mostly excellent protection. Beware the sizeable hollow-sounding pillar 1/3 of the way up, while it's probably necessary to pull on it, I wouldn't place pro behind it!

Beta sorted, gear sorted and crux moves all linked. The rain and time constraints cancelled any further attempts.

Found some very specific jamming beta that eliminated most of the technical laybacking… thank you Wild One for your flared jamming lessons!

A flash attempt was quickly snuffed out by the starting boulder. The crux crux seems doable, just need some beta and then lead attempts!

A bit spicier than expected. Overall super fun and engaging. Descent looked a bit sketchy so preferred to walk up to the tree to rap down.

Headlamp EOD attempt. Great! After the inconsequential start, this is rad and engaging all the way to the topout

2nd shot. Brutally hard through the short crux, but otherwise unremarkable. A good challenge to solve, but on balance I wouldn't say I enjoyed it.

Belay ledge at the top is choice.

Downclimb

Around and around we go...

Because it was there

Somewhere between a Cool down and a warm up.

Good movement, almost as good as horn peice??

I'm not climbing well at the moment but this is way under-graded and quite run-out. Probably harder than SOTGT. Luckily my leader is a pretty calm and collected.

pumpy for the grade, fun

I really like this line

2nd route off the session ..

Route 3 of the day.

At long last I've graduated Simey's 'Jamming School', I will now enjoy aimlessly wandering around the mount in search of even more cracks