Ascensions dans Central Gully comme croix de types variés par Douglas Hockly

Really contrived in the first bit, but fun thin face climbing.

A good problem in the first half - I find the move to the roof strangely difficult to find a sequence for.

Great climbing on the middle pitch.

Maybe easier if you're tall?

Turned out better than originally thought. Maybe 19?

One of those that would be much harder placing the gear. Very tenuous with no actual footholds. Flashed by Lou on TR - impressive!

There probably is ok climbing under all the vegetation and loose rock, but I won't be rushing back

At least 18 - more if you plug up the crucial jam with gear! Beware large loose block in the middle.

Would be better finishing up and right to Wild Mountain Thyme's chains. A little stiff for 10 Nod!

Nice rock and climbing. Wanders a little and gets progressively easier but well worthwhile

Thin on gear in upper half.

Thin on gear in upper half.

Take care with the start which is fairly hard and tricky to find the gear. A mid size hex or #12 Rock would go well, but a Yellow Camalot and #3 RP work too.

Wendy finds this 20ish and I find it about 18 so it might be a little reachy.

OK climbing but has two large loose blocks. Be ware.

Good climbing all the way. Fun.

Take a #2 RP for the start, and a single rack of cams. Great climbing and rock. And gear - lots of great wires. Just did the first pitch. If you want to avoid the slightly exciting start crux past the #2 RP you can traverse in from left or right.

Pretty hard and not very protected start. Not as good as the others.

Worth a star - worthwhile

I find the start greasy and horrible - and not that well protected. I much prefer the LH start - which is not well protected, but not greasy or horrible.

Looks good but isn't, Scarecrow is the route to do.

Gear is decent all the way. Nicer starting up Saracen p2. Good climbing and position, some cool chickenheads near the top.

I like this one. First pitch is sustained and challenging for it's first half. A bit of a ramble then second pitch is good too.

Not worth it for one good section!

Backed off second pitch - I'll try taking a big cam for the pocket. Seemed committing pulling over the bulge.

Very cool past the pillar.. I wish the chip was bigger! Nearly fell off every move after the crux to the top. Was too pumped to put the wire in so it was pretty exciting!

The second pitch is the only route I have gotten up before Nick Sutter! I find the first pitch desperate, especially placing the gear. The second pitch is desperate too, but only for a few moves, then it's easy.

The bolt is rubbish, and you might hit the ground off the crux even if it held.

Loose feeling and not that well protected. Double ropes are good.

A really good wire at half height, then that's it.

Felt loose and poorly protected

I did this before the bolts went in, thinking it was The Garden's Full of Furniture - the upper section probably is. Start is reachy and hard for 19 unless you come in from Scourge

Gear is ok but pumpy to place

Was very serious before the bolt went in!

I found the first pitch quite runout after the start (even going R)

Great climbing, probably 23, bolts need replacing. Takes a small wire after last bolt.

Hard start which is difficult to protect. Not the greatest rock. Top crack is nice. I was surprised by a nesting bronzewing pigeon exploding out of her nest at about half height.

Crap with a chipped hold.

Tres vegetated

Top crux is very reachy. Climbing is good, but not awesome.

The bottom bit is quite good. Second shot.

Could actually be ok if it ever got any traffic

Finish is runout, not the start.

I find the crux awkward and hard for the grade.. and the top bit thin on gear. Climbing is ok though.

Pumpy to place the gear. Good climbing but all over after 10m