Aide

Heckle and Jeckle Area Guide

  • Contexte de la cotation : AU
  • Photos : 2
  • Ascensions : 616

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome Douglas Hockly Cameron Hickling Constantine Dritsas Paul Badenoch Wendy Eden Cameron Roy

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Heckle and Jeckle Area 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:
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Saison

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -36.754392, 141.839054

description

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area

Limitations de l'accès

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

hérité de Arapiles

éthique

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

hérité de Arapiles
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jewish Humour

Line 1.5 metres left of 'Hopelessly Obscure'.

FA: Greg Pritchard & Kirsty Hamilton, 1993

15 Trad 9m
2 Hopelessly Obscure

Crack through bulge on right side of small face.

FA: Bert Levy & Kate Jacobsen, 1990

18 Trad 9m
3 Laughing Like A Fat Spider

A typically bold route by Paul. Not much gear on the crux.

The route Logical Conclusion (1997) written up recently (2009) by Bert Levy is a repeat of this climb.

Start: Start left of 'Fantoochi'.

FA: Hoskins & Bride, 1996

22 R Trad 12m
4 Fantoochi

Steep seam on orange rock. Step L and do the not-quite-direct-but-better-climbing finish. If you want. Don't let us pressure you.

FA: Eddy Ozols, Natalie Green. Finish as described: Eric Jones & Chris Baxter.., 1985

20 Trad 13m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Double Decker

Line 2 metres right of 'Fantoochi'.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Charlie Creese, 1985

17 Trad 13m
6 The Creesed Palm

Climb wall and step right to tiny, left-facing corner which is followed until you can swing right to arete. Up.

Start: Start 1 metre right of 'Double Decker'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Charlie Creese & Dave Gairns, 1985

17 Trad 14m
7 Wok Full of Custard

A neat little climb squeezed between Bed Lag and The Creesed Palm. Originally set as a top rope problem; there is enough gear in the corner to keep things sane.

Start up Bed Lag, then move left into the corner on the arete. Small wires protect the run out to the rooflet, then move left to finish up The Creesed Palm.

FA: Douglas Hockly

FFA: benwiessner, 2 Oct. 2021

22 Trad 15m
8 Bed Lag

Starts up 'Wogs at the Piles', but instead of breaking right continues straight up the face. At times the gear is small and spaced.

FA: Charlie Creese & Robin Miller, 1985

21 R Trad 14m
9 Wogs at the Piles

Previously described as "Good climbing but has some runout moves above not brilliant protection". Circa 2017 two retrobolt were added: one at the start (shared by Bedlag), and another bolt halfway (this has since been removed).

Start at the arete of 'Bed Lag' and do a rising traverse through bulge across flakes to right arête. Up and finish slightly left.

FA: Charlie Creese, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985

21 R Trad 15m
10 Derros in the Pines

A contrived direct start to Wogs. Up past a shallow pocket to meet Wogs half way up.

24 Trad 15m
11 Uncle Fester

Start as for crack attack then step L around corner to stance (no more bolt?). Up on the L of arete over sus gear to rail, move L and up.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen tempest, Août 2015

18 Trad 19m
12 Crack Attack

Steep climbing up the corner left of 'Mr Hyde'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Charlie Creese & Dave Gairns, 1985

17 Trad 15m
13 Mr Hyde

Good, sustained jam crack up left wall of 'Heckle'. Take a few large cams or hexes.

Graded 15 by Mentz & Tempest, Arapiles Selected Climbs Guide Book.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1968

15 Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 Heckle

The major corner-chimney bounding the left side of the black slab, mainly climbed on the slab.

FA: Norm Booth & Murray Taylor, 1968

7 Trad 15m
15 Girl Talk

Clean black slab right of 'Heckle'.

FA: Robyn Storer & Sue Baxter, 1985

9 Trad 18m
16 Rush of Blood

Well-protected technical climbing low-down leads to a runout finish. Crucial protection in the top half of the climb is provided by an insecure sling; double ropes help.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Sue Key & Ed Neve, 1979

13 R Trad 18m
17 Rush of Blood Direct Finish 13 Trad 18m
18 Murph Takes the Plunge

Distinct black streak midway between Rush Of 'Blood' and 'Jeckle'.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1985

15 Trad 18m
19 Jeckle

The very technical, bouldery start was always a bit of a shock to people expecting a grade 14! The rest of the route is substantially easier.

FA: Garry Sudholz & Keith Lockwood, 1968

18 Trad 18m
20 Goodbye Gumby

Up flake, at top step right on orange wall and go up slightly right to easier finish.

Start: Start at right-facing flake right of 'Jeckle' and before the streak of Clap For Kiwis.

FA: Eric Jones & Chris Baxter, 1985

18 Trad 18m
21 Clap for Kiwis

Brushed streak right of 'Jeckle' and left of the diagonal of 'Sheckle'. Now has a bolt on the crux, originally done without. Impressive by Lou.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Robin Miller, 1984

22 Trad mixte 18m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
22 Scouting for Boys

Begin up the diagonal, step left at horizontal break and continue up face.

Start: Start at the right-leading diagonal on right side of face.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Eddie Ozols, 1984

22 Trad 18m
23 Sheckle Indirect Start

Start at the orange corner and inch your way up and right. It appears that some people who have done this route thought they were on Sheckle (grade 13)?

Not great gear or climbing.

20 Trad
24 Sheckle

The right-leading diagonal flake on the right end of the black slab.

FA: Mike Law (solo), 1982

13 Trad 18m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
7 Heckle Trad 15m
9 Girl Talk Trad 18m
13 Rush of Blood Direct Finish Trad 18m
Sheckle Trad 18m
13 R Rush of Blood Trad 18m
15 Jewish Humour Trad 9m
Mr Hyde Trad 15m
Murph Takes the Plunge Trad 18m
17 Crack Attack Trad 15m
Double Decker Trad 13m
The Creesed Palm Trad 14m
18 Goodbye Gumby Trad 18m
Hopelessly Obscure Trad 9m
Jeckle Trad 18m
Uncle Fester Trad 19m
20 Fantoochi Trad 13m
Sheckle Indirect Start Trad
21 R Bed Lag Trad 14m
Wogs at the Piles Trad 15m
22 Clap for Kiwis Trad mixte 18m, 1
Scouting for Boys Trad 18m
Wok Full of Custard Trad 15m
22 R Laughing Like A Fat Spider Trad 12m
24 Derros in the Pines Trad 15m
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