A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Kieran Loughran benwiessner Campbell Gome Douglas Hockly Vanessa Wills Cameron Hickling Constantine Dritsas Paul Badenoch Wendy Eden Cameron Roy
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Heckle and Jeckle Area 24 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Heckle and Jeckle Area 24 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
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Tous Escalade traditionnelle
Lat / Long: -36.754392, 141.839054
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
Limitations de l'accès
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).
éthique
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Jewish Humour
Line 1.5 metres left of 'Hopelessly Obscure'. FA: Greg Pritchard & Kirsty Hamilton, 1993 | 15 | 9m | |||||
2 |
Hopelessly Obscure
Crack through bulge on right side of small face. FA: Bert Levy & Kate Jacobsen, 1990 | 18 | 9m | |||||
3 |
★ Laughing Like A Fat Spider
A typically bold route by Paul. Not much gear on the crux. The route Logical Conclusion (1997) written up recently (2009) by Bert Levy is a repeat of this climb. Start: Start left of 'Fantoochi'. FA: Hoskins & Bride, 1996 | 22 R | 12m | |||||
4 |
★ Fantoochi
Steep seam on orange rock. Step L and do the not-quite-direct-but-better-climbing finish. If you want. Don't let us pressure you. FA: Eddy Ozols, Natalie Green. Finish as described: Eric Jones & Chris Baxter.., 1985 | 20 | 13m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
5 |
Double Decker
Line 2 metres right of 'Fantoochi'. FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Charlie Creese, 1985 | 17 | 13m | |||||
6 |
★ The Creesed Palm
Climb wall and step right to tiny, left-facing corner which is followed until you can swing right to arete. Up. Start: Start 1 metre right of 'Double Decker'. FA: Chris Baxter, Charlie Creese & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 17 | 14m | |||||
7 |
★ Wok Full of Custard
A neat little climb squeezed between Bed Lag and The Creesed Palm. Originally set as a top rope problem; there is enough gear in the corner to keep things sane. Start up Bed Lag, then move left into the corner on the arete. Small wires protect the run out to the rooflet, then move left to finish up The Creesed Palm. FA: Douglas Hockly FFA: benwiessner, 2 Oct. 2021 | 22 | 15m | |||||
8 |
★ Bed Lag
Starts up 'Wogs at the Piles', but instead of breaking right continues straight up the face. At times the gear is small and spaced. FA: Charlie Creese & Robin Miller, 1985 | 21 R | 14m | |||||
9 |
★★ Wogs at the Piles
Previously described as "Good climbing but has some runout moves above not brilliant protection". Circa 2017 two retrobolt were added: one at the start (shared by Bedlag), and another bolt halfway (this has since been removed). Start at the arete of 'Bed Lag' and do a rising traverse through bulge across flakes to right arête. Up and finish slightly left. FA: Charlie Creese, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 21 R | 15m | |||||
10 |
★ Derros in the Pines
A contrived direct start to Wogs. Up past a shallow pocket to meet Wogs half way up. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & adam demmert, 11 Avr 2023 | 24 | 15m | |||||
11 |
★ Uncle Fester
Start as for crack attack then step L around corner to stance (no more bolt?). Up on the L of arete over sus gear to rail, move L and up. FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen tempest, Août 2015 | 18 | 19m | |||||
12 |
★ Crack Attack
Steep climbing up the corner left of 'Mr Hyde'. FA: Chris Baxter, Charlie Creese & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 17 | 15m | |||||
13 |
★★ Mr Hyde
Good, sustained jam crack up left wall of 'Heckle'. Take a few large cams or hexes. Graded 15 by Mentz & Tempest, Arapiles Selected Climbs Guide Book. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1968 | 15 | 15m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 |
★ Heckle
The major corner-chimney bounding the left side of the black slab, mainly climbed on the slab. FA: Norm Booth & Murray Taylor, 1968 | 7 | 15m | |||||
15 |
★★ Girl Talk
Clean black slab right of 'Heckle'. FA: Robyn Storer & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 9 | 18m | |||||
16 |
★★ Rush of Blood
Well-protected technical climbing low-down leads to a runout finish. Crucial protection in the top half of the climb is provided by an insecure sling; double ropes help. FA: Keith Lockwood, Sue Key & Ed Neve, 1979 | 13 R | 18m | |||||
17 | ★★ Rush of Blood Direct Finish | 13 | 18m | |||||
18 |
Murph Takes the Plunge
Distinct black streak midway between Rush Of 'Blood' and 'Jeckle'. FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1985 | 15 | 18m | |||||
19 |
★ Jeckle
The very technical, bouldery start was always a bit of a shock to people expecting a grade 14! The rest of the route is substantially easier. FA: Garry Sudholz & Keith Lockwood, 1968 | 18 | 18m | |||||
20 |
★ Goodbye Gumby
Up flake, at top step right on orange wall and go up slightly right to easier finish. Start: Start at right-facing flake right of 'Jeckle' and before the streak of Clap For Kiwis. FA: Eric Jones & Chris Baxter, 1985 | 18 | 18m | |||||
21 |
★★ Clap for Kiwis
Brushed streak right of 'Jeckle' and left of the diagonal of 'Sheckle'. Now has a bolt on the crux, originally done without. Impressive by Lou. FA: Louise Shepherd & Robin Miller, 1984 | 22 | 18m, 1 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
22 |
Scouting for Boys
Begin up the diagonal, step left at horizontal break and continue up face. Start: Start at the right-leading diagonal on right side of face. FA: Louise Shepherd & Eddie Ozols, 1984 | 22 | 18m | |||||
23 |
Sheckle Indirect Start
Start at the orange corner and inch your way up and right. It appears that some people who have done this route thought they were on Sheckle (grade 13)? Not great gear or climbing. | 20 | ||||||
24 |
★ Sheckle
The right-leading diagonal flake on the right end of the black slab. FA: Mike Law (solo), 1982 | 13 | 18m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
7 | ★ | Heckle | 15m | ||
9 | ★★ | Girl Talk | 18m | ||
13 | ★★ | Rush of Blood Direct Finish | 18m | ||
★ | Sheckle | 18m | |||
13 R | ★★ | Rush of Blood | 18m | ||
15 | Jewish Humour | 9m | |||
★★ | Mr Hyde | 15m | |||
Murph Takes the Plunge | 18m | ||||
17 | ★ | Crack Attack | 15m | ||
Double Decker | 13m | ||||
★ | The Creesed Palm | 14m | |||
18 | ★ | Goodbye Gumby | 18m | ||
Hopelessly Obscure | 9m | ||||
★ | Jeckle | 18m | |||
★ | Uncle Fester | 19m | |||
20 | ★ | Fantoochi | 13m | ||
Sheckle Indirect Start | |||||
21 R | ★ | Bed Lag | 14m | ||
★★ | Wogs at the Piles | 15m | |||
22 | ★★ | Clap for Kiwis | 18m, 1 | ||
Scouting for Boys | 18m | ||||
★ | Wok Full of Custard | 15m | |||
22 R | ★ | Laughing Like A Fat Spider | 12m | ||
24 | ★ | Derros in the Pines | 15m |