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Heckle and Jeckle Area

  • Contexte de la cotation : AU
  • Photos : 2
  • Ascensions : 616

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Description

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area

Limit. de l'accès hérité de Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Éthique hérité de Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Voies

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Cotation Voie

Line 1.5 metres left of 'Hopelessly Obscure'.

FA: Greg Pritchard & Kirsty Hamilton, 1993

Crack through bulge on right side of small face.

FA: Bert Levy & Kate Jacobsen, 1990

A typically bold route by Paul. Not much gear on the crux.

The route Logical Conclusion (1997) written up recently (2009) by Bert Levy is a repeat of this climb.

Start: Start left of 'Fantoochi'.

FA: Hoskins & Bride, 1996

Steep seam on orange rock. Step L and do the not-quite-direct-but-better-climbing finish. If you want. Don't let us pressure you.

FA: Eddy Ozols, Natalie Green. Finish as described: Eric Jones & Chris Baxter.., 1985

Line 2 metres right of 'Fantoochi'.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Charlie Creese, 1985

Climb wall and step right to tiny, left-facing corner which is followed until you can swing right to arete. Up.

Start: Start 1 metre right of 'Double Decker'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Charlie Creese & Dave Gairns, 1985

A neat little climb squeezed between Bed Lag and The Creesed Palm. Originally set as a top rope problem; there is enough gear in the corner to keep things sane.

Start up Bed Lag, then move left into the corner on the arete. Small wires protect the run out to the rooflet, then move left to finish up The Creesed Palm.

FA: Douglas Hockly

FFA: benwiessner, 2 Oct. 2021

Starts up 'Wogs at the Piles', but instead of breaking right continues straight up the face. At times the gear is small and spaced.

FA: Charlie Creese & Robin Miller, 1985

Previously described as "Good climbing but has some runout moves above not brilliant protection". Circa 2017 two retrobolt were added: one at the start (shared by Bedlag), and another bolt halfway (this has since been removed).

Start at the arete of 'Bed Lag' and do a rising traverse through bulge across flakes to right arête. Up and finish slightly left.

FA: Charlie Creese, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985

A contrived direct start to Wogs. Up past a shallow pocket to meet Wogs half way up.

Start as for crack attack then step L around corner to stance (no more bolt?). Up on the L of arete over sus gear to rail, move L and up.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen tempest, Août 2015

Steep climbing up the corner left of 'Mr Hyde'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Charlie Creese & Dave Gairns, 1985

Good, sustained jam crack up left wall of 'Heckle'. Take a few large cams or hexes.

Graded 15 by Mentz & Tempest, Arapiles Selected Climbs Guide Book.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1968

The major corner-chimney bounding the left side of the black slab, mainly climbed on the slab.

FA: Norm Booth & Murray Taylor, 1968

Clean black slab right of 'Heckle'.

FA: Robyn Storer & Sue Baxter, 1985

Well-protected technical climbing low-down leads to a runout finish. Crucial protection in the top half of the climb is provided by an insecure sling; double ropes help.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Sue Key & Ed Neve, 1979

Distinct black streak midway between Rush Of 'Blood' and 'Jeckle'.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1985

The very technical, bouldery start was always a bit of a shock to people expecting a grade 14! The rest of the route is substantially easier.

FA: Garry Sudholz & Keith Lockwood, 1968

Up flake, at top step right on orange wall and go up slightly right to easier finish.

Start: Start at right-facing flake right of 'Jeckle' and before the streak of Clap For Kiwis.

FA: Eric Jones & Chris Baxter, 1985

Brushed streak right of 'Jeckle' and left of the diagonal of 'Sheckle'. Now has a bolt on the crux, originally done without. Impressive by Lou.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Robin Miller, 1984

Begin up the diagonal, step left at horizontal break and continue up face.

Start: Start at the right-leading diagonal on right side of face.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Eddie Ozols, 1984

Start at the orange corner and inch your way up and right. It appears that some people who have done this route thought they were on Sheckle (grade 13)?

Not great gear or climbing.

The right-leading diagonal flake on the right end of the black slab.

FA: Mike Law (solo), 1982

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Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Auteur·e·s: Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Auteur·e·s: Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

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