Affichant les 61 voies total.
Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Baby Buttress | |||||
19 | A Cappella
Take horizontal weakness opposite 'Falsetto', then up. Start: Start at the far left hand end of baby buttress at the back of the gully. FA: unknown | 15m | |||
18 | Falsetto
Climb the face left of 'Tendrils' to a short black flake and up. Start: start left of 'Tendrils' FA: Rod Young, 1980 | 15m | |||
18 | Tendrils
Start: Climb up just left of the nose of 'Baby Buttress'. FA: Mark Moorhead, 1980 | 15m | |||
21 | ★ Metronome
A hard start leads right to a juggy overhang, then head left and up. Start: On the nose of 'Baby Buttress' FA: Rod Young, 1980 | 15m | |||
17 | ★ Mexican Madness
Wall left of Scarlet Sage, via an orange overhang and Black flake. FA: Lindorff | 10m | |||
15 | ★ ScarIet Sage
Climbs the tricky crack in the middle of the wall past two bulges and a small cave. Start: Start at tiny crack in middle of wall under a cave higher up. FA: Lindorff, 1977 | 10m | |||
18 | ★ Wascal
Up the diagonal crack two meters right of Scarlet Sage, then left and up. Start: Start two metres right of Scarlet Sage. FA: Mike Law | 10m | |||
22 | ★ Pwocol Hawum
Take the same starting diagonal crack as 'Wascal', but continue another two meters before going up. Start: Start as for 'Wascal'. FA: Mike Law | 10m | |||
22 | ★ Cry Hawum
An enjoyable combo with just a couple of metres of new climbing. Has been top-roped before. Up 'Cry Baby' to above its first bolt. Thin moves across L (good wires) to surmount the crux bulge on 'Pwocol Hawum'. FA: Glenn Tempest, 18 Avr 2015 | 12m, 1 | |||
26 | ★ Cry Baby
Up face via three bolts to anchor crux passing second bolt FA: Muki Woods, 2006 | 10m, 3 | |||
25 | Nati Dwed
| 10m | |||
21 | Chunder at 30
solo FA: John Muir, 1985 | 10m | |||
Cobwebs Gully | |||||
20 | Pain Club
Bouldery start then up face to the spectators' gallery. Start: Start opposite 'Cobwebs' and about 2m downhill. FA: Mike Law & solo, 1981 | 10m | |||
14 | Huldra
Takes the south-west arete of Tarzan pinnacle. From the gully, follow crackline up to grey bulging arete, which is climbed to a little summit. Belay and abseil off bolts at the top of Togrul Khan. FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little & Norm Booth, 11 Mars 2015 | 15m | |||
20 | Boo
The grey wall. Start: Start at the top of the gully on the R side, 30m L of 'Entangled'. FA: Chris Shepherd & Paul Hoskins, 1982 | 15m | |||
16 | Golden Delicious
Start right of Boo. Up wall to jugs. Continue up until wall blanks out, then take line of holds right across orange face to the arete. Up and right to Mesa chains. FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth & Geoff Little, 19 Mars 2015 | 25m | |||
16 | Shades Of Grey
Takes nice grey wall left of Boo. Chimney and bridge until jugs appear on the right (north) wall. Swing onto these, and direct up wall above. FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little, Ray Lassman, Geoff Little & Norm Booth, 19 Mars 2015 | 20m | |||
23 | Ferrari in a Chevrolet World
Up the seam, joining the last 3m of 'Entangled'. Start: Start 8m L of 'Entangled'. FA: Roland Foster & Dave Vass, 1989 | 12m | |||
24 | ★ Entangled
Great second pitch for 'Astral Plane' or just approach from the hole leading to the ledge of 'Pilot Error'. Start: Start atop 'Astral Plane'. FA: Mark Moorhead, Geoff Robertson & Mike Law, 1981 | 25m, 1 | |||
24 | ★★ Astral Plane
Bridge to gain short crack, bolt, then right and up, bolt and finish on a larger crack at top. Has had a rap anchor added. Start: Start high in the gully on the right hand or main wall looking into the gully, at a stone step towards the back. FA: Chris Shepherd & Ian Anger, 1981 | 15m, 2 | |||
28 | ★★★ Cobwebs
Follow the overhung seam up the middle of the wall with a piton, from the diagonal follow up final crack then finish as for 'Astral Plane'. Start: On middle of right hand wall looking in. FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 20m | |||
Open Project
Crack and bolt up wall right of Cobwebs. Moves have been done at about 34. | 2 | ||||
18 | ★★ Gilt Edged
Start: Start 10m R of 'Cobwebs', at the smooth crack in the right wall at the mouth of the gully.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong & Dave McLean, 1977 | 40m, 2 | |||
14 | Scatterbrain
If he wasn't then, he certainly is by now! Start: Start at the base of the 'Gilt Edged' buttress. FA: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong & Dave McLean, 1977 | 45m | |||
Kryptonite Krack Area | |||||
23 | ★ Thanksgiving Sunday
The thin dogleg crack behind dead conifer. Start: Start on the wall below 'Kryptonite Krack'. FA: Chris Peisker, 1977 | 12m | |||
20 | So Help Me God
Short flake, orange wall, tend L then back R. Very poorly protected and not the best rock. Start: Start 5m R of TS. FA: Mark Moorhead & Dave Fearnley, 1982 | 10m | |||
22 | DC 10
The obvious bottomless crack. Originally put up by 'building a scaffolding' of rocks to stand on and reach the first jug. Went unrepeated until 2001 when Chris Jones onsighted it without the aided start and called it 'It's A Bird It's a Plane'. Now given 27 in the latest guide, however has been climbed by a simple dyno off the deck, reducing the grade to probably around 23. Start: Start left of 'Kryptonite Krack'. FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead (22M1 with batman start), 1981 FFA: Chris Jones., 2001 | 10m | |||
23 | ★★ Kryptonite Krack
Prance up the inverted trench, exit L. Start: Start beneath the main diagonal crack through the steep bulge. FA: Greg Child, 1978 | 14m | |||
28 | Superman
Previously a long standing open project that was speculated for years prior to its first ascent. Literally a 5m (hard) boulder problem. Start: Start between KK and AF. FA: Stuart Wyithe & Dave Jones, 1995 | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Auntie Florrie
Short thin crack with very tough start. L along break to exciting juggy finish. Start: Start R of S. FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1980 | 15m | |||
23 | Clark Kent
Finish direct. Start: Start as for AF. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1979 | 10m | |||
Pilot Error Area | |||||
20 | ★★ Pilot Error
More than popular One move wonder. Start: Start at far left hand end of ledge. Pilot Error is graded as 20 in the Mentz & Tempest Arapiles Guide Book. FA: Ian Anger, 1980 | 12m, 1 | |||
20 | ★ Cul-De-Sac
Crack over roof of cave between Pilot Error and Tarzan, then chimney. FA: Nick Reeves, Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Martin, Ed Neve & Rod Young, 1979 | 10m | |||
14 | ★ Tarzan
Was 12 in previous guides! Given that the start move is outrageously hard for 13 that might have been from the time when 12 was the hardest route at the crag. Easily done in one pitch with extenders. Start: Start at next break through overhang R of C-D-S.
FA: Clive Parker & Chris Baxter, 1968 | 33m, 2 | |||
19 | ★★ Togrul Khan
Pull through overhanging corner to bomber locks in corner crack and continue up ramp to pedestal and juggy wall on left. Start: Start just right of 'Tarzan'. FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977 | 15m | |||
22 | ★ Fixed Smile
Short variant to 'Togrul Khan'. Climb right arete, either from left or right past fixed sling (which was originally fencing wire!). Start: Start just R of TK. FA: Mike Law, 1982 | 12m | |||
10 | ★ Neta
Companion route to Mesa. Start in chimney left of that route and follow the arete. Exit R to rap chain above Mesa. FA: Unkonwn, 2000 | 25m | |||
10 | ★★ Mesa
Originally graded 6 via the ordinary chimney, and not highly rated. Now that the loose bits are gone, the start has been straightened out up the face off the boulder, and a lower-off has been added, this is one of the best easy grade routes in this part of Araps, with a wide variety of climbing. Start: Start off the top of the big boulder on the ledge. FA: Graham Squire & Clive Parker, 1966 | 33m | |||
9 | ★ Butte
Completes the trilogy of nice easy climbs in this area. Think of it as an indirect start to 'Predator'. Step off the 'Mesa' boulder and head up right to the airy arete. Continue steeply over the right side of the roof and up juggy groove to ledge. The 'Mesa' rap anchor is just to the left. FA: Keith Lockwood & Tim Lockwood, 2011 | 28m | |||
23 | ★ Predator
Bouldery. Start: Start off boulder underneath roof. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 15m | |||
25 | ★★ I Dunno Direct Finish
I Dunno to level with the traverse back right into Daily Planet, arrange a nest of good gear then continue straight up via a reachy and exciting sequence (RP possible mid crux). FA: 2014 | ||||
24 | I Dunno Direct Start
| 10m | |||
21 | ★★ I Dunno
Start as for 'Daily Planet' then traverse L along break. Up past pocket to horizontal break. Stand up and move back R to finish up last moves on 'Daily Planet'. Lower off as for 'Daily Planet'. FA: Chris Shepherd, Jeff Lamb, Paul Daniels & Mark Moorhead, 1981 FA: LH start from back of cave (24) was soloed (!) by Mike Law, 1982 FA: Tough direct start (24) by Jon Muir, 1982 FA: Direct Finish (25) by Kevin Lindorff., Déc 2014 | 20m | |||
18 | ★★ Daily Planet
Superman is lurking! Start: Start at the R end of the 'Pilot Error' Ledge, R of the caves. FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1980 FA: (RHV by Michael Woodrow, David Karla & Anthony Bishop), 1992 | 20m | |||
19 | ★ Daily Planet RHV
From the top of the curving flake step right to cracks and up. FA: Michael Woodrow, David Karla & Anthony Bishop, 1992 | 20m | |||
22 R | Perry White
The badly protected seam right of 'Daily Planet'. Start: Start 2m R of 'Daily Planet'. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985 | 20m | |||
Lois Lane Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Lex Luthor
Start at the base of the slim pillar at the back of the gully between Pilot Error Ledge and Lois Lane Wall.
FA: Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1991 | 40m, 2 | |||
21 | Across the Andes by Frog
The small arete with a bolt. Start R of LL. FA: Simon Mentz & Nick White, 1992 | 20m, 1 | |||
14 | ★ Eurylochus
Start at the righthand chimney in the back of the gully.
FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977 | 33m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Excuse me Lex
Link up of Excuse me While I Belch into 2nd pitch of Lex Luthor. No stepping onto the massive chockstone. Do as one big pitch to get grade 20. Can lower off with 60m rope. | 32m | |||
19 | ★ Excuse Me While I Belch
Start as for E. Bridge chimney for 8m then tricky face moves to join a wide L-facing flake/crack. FA: Louise Shepherd & Nicky Sunderland, 1991 | 17m | |||
26 R | ★ Magenweh
As for Heimweh, then veer L where Heimweh goes R into DaC. up past a few intermittent seams, then R into DaC up high. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 30 Jan 2022 | 15m, 2 | |||
26 R | ★ Heimweh
Start as for Debutantes. Runout up L and traverse back R on layaways in horizontal weakness to join DaC. Finish up this. FA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1985 | 15m, 2 | |||
25 | ★★★ Debutantes and Centipedes
Start L of the blunt arete. Trend R to arete past 3 RBs. Crux to break then tend leftwards past good trad to loweroff. FA: Mike Law & Mike Law-Smith, 1981 | 15m, 3 | |||
25 | ★ Cambodia
The face with 2 bolts, involving two distinct boulder problems. Reachy start off two sidepulls then into slopers to a brief respite, then a cute micro crimp problem to the ledge. Easily up from there. Harder than some 26s. Start R of D&C. FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1982 | 20m, 2 | |||
24 X | ★ Lois Lane
Amazing how many people commandeer the blunt end on a bold route! Start R of C roughly in the middle of the wall. FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Dignan, Matt Dunstan & Peter Lindorff, 1979 | 20m | |||
25 | Extension
The reachy face with a bolt. Start just R of Lois Lane. FA: Mike Law & Mike Law-Smith, 1981 | 25m, 1 | |||
17 | ★ Reunion
From such beginnings at age 18, 10 years later he was in on Australia's first ascent of Everest. Quite nice anyway. Start a few m R of Lois Lane beneath the only significant crackline. FA: Lincoln Hall & Norm Booth, 1974 | 25m | |||
15 | Calypso
Worth roping up for the traverse to the base, and for the traverse off L at the top to the rap anchor. Start 6m R of Reunion, R of orange cave. FA: Rod Young & Simon Kenny, 1977 | 20m | |||
22 | Contraction
Start up the ramp of BS, then the flake. Tricky up small corner on the L. Start as for B. FA: Kim Carrigan & Robin Miller, 1982 | 20m | |||
23 R | Beasley St
Start just R of C. Boldly up face to bolt. FA: Guy Cotter & Steve Howden, 1981 | 20m, 1 |
Affichant les 61 voies total.