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Routen als traditionell in Pilot Error Cliffs

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Zeigt alle 61 Routen.

Schwierigkeitsgrad Route Stil Beliebtheit
Baby Buttress
19 A Cappella

Take horizontal weakness opposite 'Falsetto', then up.

Start: Start at the far left hand end of baby buttress at the back of the gully.

Erstbegehung: unknown

Traditionell 15m
18 Falsetto

Climb the face left of 'Tendrils' to a short black flake and up.

Start: start left of 'Tendrils'

Erstbegehung: Rod Young, 1980

Traditionell 15m
18 Tendrils

Start: Climb up just left of the nose of 'Baby Buttress'.

Erstbegehung: Mark Moorhead, 1980

Traditionell 15m
21 Metronome

A hard start leads right to a juggy overhang, then head left and up.

Start: On the nose of 'Baby Buttress'

Erstbegehung: Rod Young, 1980

Traditionell 15m
17 Mexican Madness

Wall left of Scarlet Sage, via an orange overhang and Black flake.

Erstbegehung: Lindorff

Traditionell 10m
15 ScarIet Sage

Climbs the tricky crack in the middle of the wall past two bulges and a small cave.

Start: Start at tiny crack in middle of wall under a cave higher up.

Erstbegehung: Lindorff, 1977

Traditionell 10m
18 Wascal

Up the diagonal crack two meters right of Scarlet Sage, then left and up.

Start: Start two metres right of Scarlet Sage.

Erstbegehung: Mike Law

Traditionell 10m
22 Pwocol Hawum

Take the same starting diagonal crack as 'Wascal', but continue another two meters before going up.

Start: Start as for 'Wascal'.

Erstbegehung: Mike Law

Traditionell 10m
22 Cry Hawum

An enjoyable combo with just a couple of metres of new climbing. Has been top-roped before. Up 'Cry Baby' to above its first bolt. Thin moves across L (good wires) to surmount the crux bulge on 'Pwocol Hawum'.

Erstbegehung: Glenn Tempest, 18 Apr 2015

Gemischt trad 12m, 1
26 Cry Baby

Up face via three bolts to anchor crux passing second bolt

Erstbegehung: Muki Woods, 2006

Gemischt trad 10m, 3
25 Nati Dwed
Traditionell 10m
21 Chunder at 30

solo

Erstbegehung: John Muir, 1985

Traditionell 10m
Cobwebs Gully
20 Pain Club

Bouldery start then up face to the spectators' gallery.

Start: Start opposite 'Cobwebs' and about 2m downhill.

Erstbegehung: Mike Law & solo, 1981

Traditionell 10m
14 Huldra

Takes the south-west arete of Tarzan pinnacle. From the gully, follow crackline up to grey bulging arete, which is climbed to a little summit. Belay and abseil off bolts at the top of Togrul Khan.

Erstbegehung: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little & Norm Booth, 11 Mär 2015

Traditionell 15m
20 Boo

The grey wall.

Start: Start at the top of the gully on the R side, 30m L of 'Entangled'.

Erstbegehung: Chris Shepherd & Paul Hoskins, 1982

Traditionell 15m
16 Golden Delicious

Start right of Boo. Up wall to jugs. Continue up until wall blanks out, then take line of holds right across orange face to the arete. Up and right to Mesa chains.

Erstbegehung: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth & Geoff Little, 19 Mär 2015

Traditionell 25m
16 Shades Of Grey

Takes nice grey wall left of Boo. Chimney and bridge until jugs appear on the right (north) wall. Swing onto these, and direct up wall above.

Erstbegehung: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little, Ray Lassman, Geoff Little & Norm Booth, 19 Mär 2015

Traditionell 20m
23 Ferrari in a Chevrolet World

Up the seam, joining the last 3m of 'Entangled'.

Start: Start 8m L of 'Entangled'.

Erstbegehung: Roland Foster & Dave Vass, 1989

Traditionell 12m
24 Entangled

Great second pitch for 'Astral Plane' or just approach from the hole leading to the ledge of 'Pilot Error'.

Start: Start atop 'Astral Plane'.

Erstbegehung: Mark Moorhead, Geoff Robertson & Mike Law, 1981

Gemischt trad 25m, 1
24 Astral Plane

Bridge to gain short crack, bolt, then right and up, bolt and finish on a larger crack at top. Has had a rap anchor added.

Start: Start high in the gully on the right hand or main wall looking into the gully, at a stone step towards the back.

Erstbegehung: Chris Shepherd & Ian Anger, 1981

Gemischt trad 15m, 2
28 Cobwebs

Follow the overhung seam up the middle of the wall with a piton, from the diagonal follow up final crack then finish as for 'Astral Plane'.

Start: On middle of right hand wall looking in.

Erstbegehung: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Traditionell 20m
Open Project

Crack and bolt up wall right of Cobwebs. Moves have been done at about 34.

Gemischt trad 2
18 Gilt Edged

Start: Start 10m R of 'Cobwebs', at the smooth crack in the right wall at the mouth of the gully.

  1. 30m (18) Up the crack to ledge then jam the slick crack and left through the roof to next ledge and then belay at ledge.

  2. 10m (18) 'Steep' jamming to roof then headwall.

Erstbegehung: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong & Dave McLean, 1977

Traditionell 40m, 2
14 Scatterbrain

If he wasn't then, he certainly is by now!

Start: Start at the base of the 'Gilt Edged' buttress.

Erstbegehung: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong & Dave McLean, 1977

Traditionell 45m
Kryptonite Krack Area
23 Thanksgiving Sunday

The thin dogleg crack behind dead conifer.

Start: Start on the wall below 'Kryptonite Krack'.

Erstbegehung: Chris Peisker, 1977

Traditionell 12m
20 So Help Me God

Short flake, orange wall, tend L then back R. Very poorly protected and not the best rock.

Start: Start 5m R of TS.

Erstbegehung: Mark Moorhead & Dave Fearnley, 1982

Traditionell 10m
22 DC 10

The obvious bottomless crack. Originally put up by 'building a scaffolding' of rocks to stand on and reach the first jug. Went unrepeated until 2001 when Chris Jones onsighted it without the aided start and called it 'It's A Bird It's a Plane'. Now given 27 in the latest guide, however has been climbed by a simple dyno off the deck, reducing the grade to probably around 23.

Start: Start left of 'Kryptonite Krack'.

Erstbegehung: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead (22M1 with batman start), 1981

Erste freie Begeh.: Chris Jones., 2001

Traditionell 10m
23 Kryptonite Krack

Prance up the inverted trench, exit L.

Start: Start beneath the main diagonal crack through the steep bulge.

Erstbegehung: Greg Child, 1978

Traditionell 14m
28 Superman

Previously a long standing open project that was speculated for years prior to its first ascent. Literally a 5m (hard) boulder problem.

Start: Start between KK and AF.

Erstbegehung: Stuart Wyithe & Dave Jones, 1995

Traditionell 15m
23 Auntie Florrie

Short thin crack with very tough start. L along break to exciting juggy finish.

Start: Start R of S.

Erstbegehung: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1980

Traditionell 15m
23 Clark Kent

Finish direct.

Start: Start as for AF.

Erstbegehung: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1979

Traditionell 10m
Pilot Error Area
20 Pilot Error

More than popular One move wonder. Start: Start at far left hand end of ledge.

Pilot Error is graded as 20 in the Mentz & Tempest Arapiles Guide Book.

Erstbegehung: Ian Anger, 1980

Gemischt trad 12m, 1
20 Cul-De-Sac

Crack over roof of cave between Pilot Error and Tarzan, then chimney.

Erstbegehung: Nick Reeves, Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Martin, Ed Neve & Rod Young, 1979

Traditionell 10m
14 Tarzan

Was 12 in previous guides! Given that the start move is outrageously hard for 13 that might have been from the time when 12 was the hardest route at the crag. Easily done in one pitch with extenders.

Start: Start at next break through overhang R of C-D-S.

  1. 15m (13) The corner and easily up ramp.

  2. 18m (13) Traverse left between overhangs, then up on jugs to top.

Erstbegehung: Clive Parker & Chris Baxter, 1968

Traditionell 33m, 2
19 Togrul Khan

Pull through overhanging corner to bomber locks in corner crack and continue up ramp to pedestal and juggy wall on left.

Start: Start just right of 'Tarzan'.

Erstbegehung: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977

Traditionell 15m
22 Fixed Smile

Short variant to 'Togrul Khan'. Climb right arete, either from left or right past fixed sling (which was originally fencing wire!).

Start: Start just R of TK.

Erstbegehung: Mike Law, 1982

Traditionell 12m
10 Neta

Companion route to Mesa. Start in chimney left of that route and follow the arete. Exit R to rap chain above Mesa.

Erstbegehung: Unkonwn, 2000

Traditionell 25m
10 Mesa

Originally graded 6 via the ordinary chimney, and not highly rated. Now that the loose bits are gone, the start has been straightened out up the face off the boulder, and a lower-off has been added, this is one of the best easy grade routes in this part of Araps, with a wide variety of climbing.

Start: Start off the top of the big boulder on the ledge.

Erstbegehung: Graham Squire & Clive Parker, 1966

Traditionell 33m
9 Butte

Completes the trilogy of nice easy climbs in this area. Think of it as an indirect start to 'Predator'. Step off the 'Mesa' boulder and head up right to the airy arete. Continue steeply over the right side of the roof and up juggy groove to ledge. The 'Mesa' rap anchor is just to the left.

Erstbegehung: Keith Lockwood & Tim Lockwood, 2011

Traditionell 28m
23 Predator

Bouldery.

Start: Start off boulder underneath roof.

Erstbegehung: Kevin Lindorff, 1977

Traditionell 15m
25 I Dunno Direct Finish

I Dunno to level with the traverse back right into Daily Planet, arrange a nest of good gear then continue straight up via a reachy and exciting sequence (RP possible mid crux).

Erstbegehung: 2014

Traditionell
24 I Dunno Direct Start
Traditionell 10m
21 I Dunno

Start as for 'Daily Planet' then traverse L along break. Up past pocket to horizontal break. Stand up and move back R to finish up last moves on 'Daily Planet'. Lower off as for 'Daily Planet'.

Erstbegehung: Chris Shepherd, Jeff Lamb, Paul Daniels & Mark Moorhead, 1981

Erstbegehung: LH start from back of cave (24) was soloed (!) by Mike Law, 1982

Erstbegehung: Tough direct start (24) by Jon Muir, 1982

Erstbegehung: Direct Finish (25) by Kevin Lindorff., Dez 2014

Traditionell 20m
18 Daily Planet

Superman is lurking!

Start: Start at the R end of the 'Pilot Error' Ledge, R of the caves.

Erstbegehung: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1980

Erstbegehung: (RHV by Michael Woodrow, David Karla & Anthony Bishop), 1992

Traditionell 20m
19 Daily Planet RHV

From the top of the curving flake step right to cracks and up.

Erstbegehung: Michael Woodrow, David Karla & Anthony Bishop, 1992

Traditionell 20m
22 R Perry White

The badly protected seam right of 'Daily Planet'.

Start: Start 2m R of 'Daily Planet'.

Erstbegehung: Kim Carrigan, 1985

Traditionell 20m
Lois Lane Wall
20 Lex Luthor

Start at the base of the slim pillar at the back of the gully between Pilot Error Ledge and Lois Lane Wall.

  1. 12m (19) Boulder up into the thin crack on the front face of the pillar.

  2. 18m (19) Climb the fingery face on the R wall of the gully above the ledge, beware slightly fragile rock. Stay L of the arete up higher on glorious jugs, to chains (30m to ground).

Erstbegehung: Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1991

Traditionell 40m, 2
21 Across the Andes by Frog

The small arete with a bolt. Start R of LL.

Erstbegehung: Simon Mentz & Nick White, 1992

Gemischt trad 20m, 1
14 Eurylochus

Start at the righthand chimney in the back of the gully.

  1. 15m (12) Up the chimney and under the chockstone.

  2. 15m (15) Take the left-facing curving flake on the right wall, then traverse right and up to rap anchor for Lex Luthor.

Erstbegehung: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977

Traditionell 33m, 2
20 Excuse me Lex

Link up of Excuse me While I Belch into 2nd pitch of Lex Luthor. No stepping onto the massive chockstone. Do as one big pitch to get grade 20. Can lower off with 60m rope.

Traditionell 32m
19 Excuse Me While I Belch

Start as for E. Bridge chimney for 8m then tricky face moves to join a wide L-facing flake/crack.

Erstbegehung: Louise Shepherd & Nicky Sunderland, 1991

Traditionell 17m
26 R Magenweh

As for Heimweh, then veer L where Heimweh goes R into DaC. up past a few intermittent seams, then R into DaC up high.

Erste freie Begeh.: Christopher Glastonbury, 30 Jan 2022

Gemischt trad 15m, 2
26 R Heimweh

Start as for Debutantes. Runout up L and traverse back R on layaways in horizontal weakness to join DaC. Finish up this.

Erstbegehung: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1985

Gemischt trad 15m, 2
25 Debutantes and Centipedes

Start L of the blunt arete. Trend R to arete past 3 RBs. Crux to break then tend leftwards past good trad to loweroff.

Erstbegehung: Mike Law & Mike Law-Smith, 1981

Gemischt trad 15m, 3
25 Cambodia

The face with 2 bolts, involving two distinct boulder problems. Reachy start off two sidepulls then into slopers to a brief respite, then a cute micro crimp problem to the ledge. Easily up from there. Harder than some 26s. Start R of D&C.

Erstbegehung: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1982

Gemischt trad 20m, 2
24 X Lois Lane

Amazing how many people commandeer the blunt end on a bold route! Start R of C roughly in the middle of the wall.

Erstbegehung: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Dignan, Matt Dunstan & Peter Lindorff, 1979

Traditionell 20m
25 Extension

The reachy face with a bolt. Start just R of Lois Lane.

Erstbegehung: Mike Law & Mike Law-Smith, 1981

Gemischt trad 25m, 1
17 Reunion

From such beginnings at age 18, 10 years later he was in on Australia's first ascent of Everest. Quite nice anyway. Start a few m R of Lois Lane beneath the only significant crackline.

Erstbegehung: Lincoln Hall & Norm Booth, 1974

Traditionell 25m
15 Calypso

Worth roping up for the traverse to the base, and for the traverse off L at the top to the rap anchor. Start 6m R of Reunion, R of orange cave.

Erstbegehung: Rod Young & Simon Kenny, 1977

Traditionell 20m
22 Contraction

Start up the ramp of BS, then the flake. Tricky up small corner on the L. Start as for B.

Erstbegehung: Kim Carrigan & Robin Miller, 1982

Traditionell 20m
23 R Beasley St

Start just R of C. Boldly up face to bolt.

Erstbegehung: Guy Cotter & Steve Howden, 1981

Gemischt trad 20m, 1

Zeigt alle 61 Routen.

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