Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | |||
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Mar 23 Oct. 2018 - Mt Stuart | ||||||
The Playground | ||||||
20 |
★★ Big Green Maggot Riddon Tripe Farm
![]() | 23m | ★★ Excellent | |||
21 |
★ Psychobabble Variant
![]() | 23m, 1 | ★ Bon | |||
21 |
★ Only the Best Boys
![]() | 21m, 3 | Dans la moyenne | |||
22 |
★★ Joy Boy
![]() | 21m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | |||
21 |
★★ The Better the Boy the More the Joy
![]() | 21m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
23 |
★ Bathos Bauble Boys
![]() | 21m | ★ Bon | |||
fell off this all afternoon!
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25 |
★★ Top of the Food Chain
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
21 |
★★ Peeni and Suranius
![]() | 23m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
18 |
★ The Greenhouse Effect
![]() | 22m | Dans la moyenne | |||
19 |
★ Big Pink Custard Pig Farm
![]() | 19m | ★ Bon | |||
20 |
★★ Suspicion
![]() | 23m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
25 |
★ Avalon
![]() | 22m, 1 | ★ Bon | |||
second shot
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13 |
★ Holiday
![]() | 22m | ★ Bon | |||
22 |
Lemon Seeds
![]() | 18m, 3 | Dans la moyenne | |||
22 |
★★ Too Much Fun
![]() | 23m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | |||
25 |
★ Autoerotic Fatalities
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★ Bon | |||
22 |
★ Yesterday's Gone
![]() | 14m, 1 | ★ Bon | |||
23 |
★ He Who Snoozes Loses
![]() | 17m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
11 |
★ Happy Wanderer
![]() | 18m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
23 |
★★ Two Hands are Better Than One
![]() | 20m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | |||
21 |
★★ Cardiovascular Overload
![]() | 8m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
17 |
★ Eye of the Tiger
![]() | 20m | Dans la moyenne | |||
21 |
★ Slippery When Wet
![]() | 19m | ★ Bon | |||
19 |
★★ Simple Pleasures
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
19 |
★ Simple Pleasures Variant Start
![]() | 18m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
25 |
★★ IYFG
![]() | 16m | ★ Bon | |||
22 |
★★★ Shadow Of A Doubt
![]() | 18m | ||||
19 |
★ Unidentified Flying Organisms
![]() | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
22 |
Post-Larval Mutants
![]() | 18m | Dans la moyenne | |||
20 |
★★ Wimps in the Gym
![]() | 16m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
22 |
★★ Tunnel Vision
![]() | 7m, 1 | ★★ Excellent | |||
23 |
★★★ A Separate Reality
![]() | 20m, 2 | ★★★ Classique | |||
20 |
★★ Fist Full of Ants
![]() | 20m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
23 |
★★ Twister and Beyond
![]() | 13m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | |||
21 |
★ Twister
![]() | 6m | ★ Bon | |||
23 |
★★ Rude Awakening (Rude Awakenings)
![]() | 5m, 2 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Dim 25 Déc 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Mysteries Wall | ||||||
24 |
★★ Free Will
![]() | 20m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
A great second ascent by Geordie minutes after the first. Good variety - a slippery seam, an awkward balancy crack, a weird traverse, crank through a roof and a headwall that can feel hard enough to be interesting if you're pumped - which I was. Good fun.
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Mer 16 Nov. 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
22 |
Fine Tune
![]() | 16m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Really contrived in the first bit, but fun thin face climbing.
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Dim 13 Nov. 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | ||||||
21 |
Amazing Lace Direct Start
![]() | 23m | ★ Bon | |||
Vaguely remember climbing is not that hard but gear is not that good
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Ven 11 Nov. 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
22 |
★ Family Food
![]() | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
Quite interesting, doesn't seem to have much gear, esp at the start which is the crux
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Lun 15 Août 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
18 |
★ Dynamite
![]() | 18m | ★★ Excellent | |||
The climbing is very nice, but there is very little gear, and the rock is not great where the gear is. A shame it's not bolted as it would be enjoyed by many.. if it was 27 it'd be bolted, but it's not cause it's 17.
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18 |
Last Picture Show
![]() | 22m | Dans la moyenne | |||
The actual corner I found quite interesting and not too hard as I could bridge to the rib on the right wall, but the start (Condor) is not that great and Wendy traversed off to the chains above Mechanical Prune as there was a death block on the ledge...
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16 |
★ Moonlighter
![]() | 15m | ||||
22 |
★ Slippin' Away
![]() | 13m | ★ Bon | |||
The corner is good - and desperate - but very short.
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23 |
★ Cracks in the Pavement
![]() | 25m | ★ Bon | |||
I really enjoyed this. Pretty tenuous in places. May be a safe lead these days with lots of micro cams, though I think you'd be on RPs at the start.
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17 |
★ King Shits and Dead Shits
![]() | 20m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Decent alt start to LLL
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Lun 15 Août 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
16 |
★ Illusion / Bad Blues Link Up
![]() | 22m | ★ Bon | |||
18 |
★★★ Iron Mandible
![]() | 24m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Take care and small wires on the start
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17 |
★★ Neon Philharmonic
![]() | 35m | Dans la moyenne | |||
God this is desperate.
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21 |
★★ The Anti-From
![]() | 17m | ★ Bon | |||
24 |
Serenade for Strings
![]() | 35m | Dans la moyenne | |||
19 |
★★ Drop Out
![]() | 24m | ★ Bon | |||
Good but has a substantial loose bit
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16 |
★★ Drop-out Direct Finish
![]() | 7m | ★ Bon | |||
15 |
★ Bad Company
![]() | 20m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Insecure feeling, not that fun
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19 |
Jumbo Services Mrs Mills and the Electric Yellow Bums
![]() | 20m | Pas la peine | |||
17 16 |
★★ Micron
![]() | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
18 17 |
★★ Elastic RURP
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
20 |
★★ Catharsis
![]() | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
This is better than it looks! The top offwith is great, I used stacked handjams which worked well.
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17 |
★ Pixel Princess
![]() | 15m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Better than it looks, but has some loose blocks to be careful of up high. Also more like 17 off the ground than 15
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20 |
★★ Footloose and Falling Free
![]() | 11m | ★★ Excellent | |||
I really like this one. Surprisingly takes a blue cam 3 camalot at the top.
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19 |
★★ Magical Mystery Tour
![]() | 34m | ★ Bon | |||
Take some small wires
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21 |
★ Half-dazed and Patched Pants
![]() | 18m | Dans la moyenne | |||
I remember having a wobbler above the bolt on this!
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22 20 |
★★ The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine
![]() | 33m | ★ Bon | |||
The start detracts, and the rest is quite hard, feels as hard as other 22s
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19 |
★ Bay Play
![]() | 10m | ★ Bon | |||
Hard and the gear strenuous to place. Good climbing but some loose bits.
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21 |
★★★ The One That Got Away
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Love this one.
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23 23 X |
★★ Ockerphillia
![]() | 23m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Rapped down and looked at the gear first. IIRC there's nothing to the crux and not much after it but I got about 4 bits on the crux that I thought would hold a slump.
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23 |
★★ Chemical Adrenalin
![]() | 24m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Found this hard, maybe 24?
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21 |
★★★ Conquistador
![]() | 45m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
21 |
★★ Oppenheimer's Monster
![]() | 25m, 2 | Dans la moyenne | |||
It's been a long time but I remember being a bit put off by the rock quality, and hence the gear that's in it.
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20 |
★★★ Devils Dihedral
![]() | 45m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
My fave at Frog
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15 |
★★ Devil's Wart
![]() | 27m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Hollow corner at the top is a bit offputting
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23 |
★ Baby Staysharp
![]() | 7m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
My first 23 flash
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18 |
★ Hello Sailor
![]() | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
This is surprisingly good. No real offwidthing required.
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17 |
Genghis Khan
![]() | 20m | Pas la peine | |||
I only just got up this! I did it by chimneying which was exhausting, maybe there is a better way. (Wendy did it much better) There really is no gear till half height, and some poor rock, and it's filthy... get on it.
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23 |
★ Go-between
![]() | 18m | ★ Bon | |||
I thought this was really nice, and I think the gear would be better these days with micro cams. Could be 22.
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19 |
★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake
![]() | 18m | ★ Bon | |||
A bit graunchy but good.
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22 |
★★ Out on a Limb
![]() | 18m | ★ Bon | |||
The crux placements have shattered which is not that confidence inspiring. You can get questionable cams now. Delicate climbing on your feet.
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22 21 |
★ Run With the Pack
![]() | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
More like a toprope. I went up Bad Company to the first good bit of gear, which is 2/3 of the way up the route. I would not trust the gear in the initial corner at all. Much scarier than Out On A Limb or The Go-Between. Climbing is ok, top crack is nice. I think 22.
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23 |
★★ The Guns of Navaronne
![]() | 30m | ★ Bon | |||
Good but the hard bit is short if you start up Odin like we did.
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22 |
★★ Decade
![]() | 30m | Dans la moyenne | |||
A good line but the climbing is easier to the left and then the right so it ended up feeling a bit contrived to me.
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17 |
★ If
![]() | 30m | Pas la peine | |||
Not that great, and neither is the gear when it matters
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21 20 |
★★★ Short Order
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
I find this to be solid 21. Great climbing, though feels insecure all the way. Every time I do it I remember that Malcolm soloed it. Gawd.
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17 |
★★★ Smoked Banana
![]() | 40m | ★ Bon | |||
13 12 |
★ Witches Cauldron Pitch 1
![]() | 12m | Pas la peine | |||
Quite horrible, consists of stacked blocks which contain the gear...
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18 |
Midnight Express
![]() | 23m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Not too hard, and not as bad as it looks. Some loose rock but no real offwidthing, you can head onto the R wall at the top
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17 |
★ Psychedelic Apricot Pitch Two
![]() | 25m | Dans la moyenne | |||
This seemed quite easy for 19... on second. There is a fair bit of loose rock but not awful. Climbing is ok.
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14 |
★★ Faki
![]() | 13m | ★ Bon | |||
22 |
★ Satsang
![]() | 5m, 1 | Dans la moyenne | |||
22 |
★★★ Yankee Go Home
![]() | 26m | ★★ Excellent | |||
18 |
★★ Warlock
![]() | 26m | Dans la moyenne | |||
23 |
★★ Day of the Jackal
![]() | 28m | ★★ Excellent | |||
I had a great experience on this.. a bit scared, at my limit, but got up it. I thought it was great but YMMV
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20 19 |
★★★ Thor
![]() | 30m | Pas la peine | |||
I thought this was horrible. The first half is ok but the top is just a jigsaw of loose blocks.
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20 |
★★★ Odin
![]() | 30m | Dans la moyenne | |||
I remember hating this before I could jam!
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Ven 29 Juil 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
20 |
★★ Famous Cosmetics
![]() | 40m | ★ Bon | |||
I found the crux really desperate. The rest is good but shame about the ledges
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17 |
★ Phatang
![]() | 40m | Pas la peine | |||
Not great. Lots of ledges to hit and not the best rock
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24 |
★★★ Impulse
![]() | 18m | ★★★ Classique | |||
My first 24 flash, in about 89
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17 |
★ Liquid Laughter Layback
![]() | 38m | ★ Bon | |||
I remember the V groove being desperate from 88... did it again last year and it was still desperate!
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18 |
★★ Borderline 29
![]() | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Good for a few moves but worryingly hollow
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21 |
★ Plummeting Pineapple (Plummeting Pinapple)
![]() | 35m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Good for a bit at the start then a bit of a ramble. There are better routes.
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21 |
★ Bongos and Beached Whales
![]() | 10m | ★ Bon | |||
Fun for a few moves
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