Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | |||
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Dim 25 Déc 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Mysteries Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Free Will - avec Geordie Webb | 20m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
A great second ascent by Geordie minutes after the first. Good variety - a slippery seam, an awkward balancy crack, a weird traverse, crank through a roof and a headwall that can feel hard enough to be interesting if you're pumped - which I was. Good fun.
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Mer 16 Nov. 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
22 | Fine Tune - avec Wendy Eden | 16m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Really contrived in the first bit, but fun thin face climbing.
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Dim 13 Nov. 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | ||||||
21 | Amazing Lace Direct Start | 23m | ★ Bon | |||
Vaguely remember climbing is not that hard but gear is not that good
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Ven 11 Nov. 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★ Family Food - avec becca saurus | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
Quite interesting, doesn't seem to have much gear, esp at the start which is the crux
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Mer 6 Juil 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Running Amok - avec Wendy Eden | 15m, 1 | ★★ Excellent | |||
10 laps training in my Become Adam Demmert programme. Having the plastic surgery next week - so excited! Conditions a bit warm, had to climb shirtless by the end.
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Jeu 9 Juin 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
23 | ★ Rain Aneurysm - avec Wendy Eden | 35m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
Easy chossy start but the business is good rock and an interesting crux down low (if you're tall) and sustained up high.
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Dim 5 Juin 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
19 | ★ Silent Senile Running Foxes - avec Wendy Eden | 35m | ★ Bon | |||
I thought this was quite good - apart from being diagonal, the rock's pretty good (apart from the start) and the climbing's quite interesting.
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16 | Heart Full of Soul - avec Wendy Eden, Kylie Jarrett, Kane Hendy | 60m | ★ Bon | |||
As I was seconding I could go up the 'mossy slab' which is quite nice climbing and rock. Not recommended to lead as it has no gear, but I might put a few bolts in it. This improves the route as it's more direct and better climbing - I thought it was a pretty good two pitch route. Amazing old twisted pine on top.
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21 | ★★ Only Fools Eat Marmite | 30m | ★ Bon | |||
Jeu 2 Juin 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
18 | ★ Perpetual Standstill - avec Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark | 40m | ★ Bon | |||
It's a shame that the rock is not so great on this as it's a nice long pitch which is fairly sustained and ends up in a terrific position right on the top arete of the buttress. There is one pretty obvious loose block at about 8m to avoid. A good onsight lead by Wendy!
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13 | ★ Sundowner - avec Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark | 30m | ★ Bon | |||
The start's quite good, then the rock quality falls away a bit. Take a few big cams if you want to climb the LH corner, fortunately the RH corner has good normal sized gear and ok climbing.
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22 | ★ Cream Between - avec Wendy Eden | 30m | ★ Bon | |||
I would describe it as 'horiffically smooth', but hey. The initial groove looks like 24 and is at least 19 and then the bulge has a hard slopey topout. (this may be a new direct finish). Then a bit of a loose and blocky ramble to the top but the bottom is quite worthwhile and the most-not-16 route I have ever done.
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Sam 28 Mai 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Walking Amok | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Lun 23 Mai 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Meekly Unconcerned | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Good climbing with some dodgy rock (gave it a good kick on second though) and some moss and dirt at the top. Great onsight lead by Wendy!
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Sam 21 Mai 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
23 22 | ★★ Running Amok - avec Wendy Eden | 15m, 1 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Might be 23. Great climbing on big holds, easier and better protected than Amok!
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Mer 18 Mai 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
24 23 | ★ Walking Simulator | 12m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
Amazing. Incredible. My whole life as a climber has culminated in this. At least today it did.
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17 16 | ★ Guider not a climber - avec Wendy Eden | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
This is good! Needs a brush but nice rock and moves.
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Dim 15 Mai 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
19 | ★★ Coeur de Lion - avec Wendy Eden | 43m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Awesome in the first half, the rest is much easier and some loose rock but wow the first half is amazing. Like a harder version of Toccata, and now has a rap station.
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Sam 14 Mai 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
22 | Under Control - avec Ben Weissner | 30m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Quite fun in bottom half, then very mossy and easier
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Dim 1 Mai 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
17 | Armchair critic - avec Wendy Eden | 15m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Quite fun and a good lead onsight by Wend.
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21 | ★ Ice is Nice - avec Wendy Eden | 12m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Felt hard even on tr.
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Dim 10 Avr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ No Space for Boxes | 30m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Sam 9 Avr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Stillborn - avec Wendy Eden | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
Pretty hard and would be a pretty goey lead. Interesting climbing for the first 10m or so.
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Sam 9 Avr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Evelyn and Lou Area | ||||||
17 | Lou's Not 19 (Anymore) | 4m | Pas la peine | |||
20 | Greg Will be Pleased - avec Wendy Eden | 9m | Pas la peine | |||
Very short and bouldery at the start with no gear.
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22 | Greg will be Amused - avec Wendy Eden | 10m, 2 | Dans la moyenne | |||
22 | ★ Lou Direct - avec Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Bon | |||
Probably better than the original
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24 | ★ Man on the Land - avec Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Bon | |||
This is really quite good. Just toproped it, I think the gear would be quite tough to place on lead. Nice rock.
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Dim 3 Avr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
23 | Procrastinationable - avec Wendy Eden | 26m | ★ Bon | |||
A good problem in the first half - I find the move to the roof strangely difficult to find a sequence for.
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Sam 26 Mars 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Shiralee Wall | ||||||
8 | ★ Cold Episode of Influenza - avec Wendy Eden | 25m | ★ Bon | |||
Nice!
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15 | ★ I am a Banana Expert - avec Wendy Eden | 25m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
Nice steady climbing. Take small cams. Might be 16? We're really not sure at these grades.
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18 | Great Sleeping Weather - avec Wendy Eden | 25m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
Good fun, three interesting sections
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17 | Tallness is something Other People Suffer From - avec Wendy Eden | 25m, 2 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Typically bold, take microcams and be prepared to run it out. Super bunched on the crux.
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17 17 R | ★ The Crumpet Didn't Front - avec Wendy Eden | 25m | ★ Bon | |||
I thought this was quite good. The rock's not perfect and it's quite bold - there is no gear for the crux and you'll hit a ledge, and maybe the ground later. The climbing is interesting though and varied and feels like a bit of an adventure.
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Mer 23 Mars 2016 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | ||||||
The Ravine | ||||||
20 18 | ★ Point Perpetrator - avec Wendy Eden | 17m, 6 | ★ Bon | |||
and this seemed more like 20 with a tricky start if you're not short. Wish I was short.
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22 21 | ★ Minced Beef Eaters - avec Wendy Eden | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
Pre clipped the second bolt for the full Dougpoint.
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20 21 | ★ Lake Thelma - avec Wendy Eden | 18m, 7 | ★ Bon | |||
Mer 23 Mars 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | ||||||
17 | Ed's Super Sarnie - avec Ben Weissner | 15m | Dans la moyenne | |||
While it feels like every hold will snap off and the gear is behind the holds I had a good wobble up this. I don't think the climbing's that great but it's an exciting adventure. Both Ben and I thought it was tricky for the grade, but we were both having a tired day.
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Dim 20 Mars 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★ The Nile - avec Kieran Lawton | 110m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Great climbing on the middle pitch.
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Dim 20 Mars 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Shiralee Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ The Shiralee Direct - avec Wendy Eden | 20m, 1 | ★★ Excellent | |||
This is really good - slabby start, interesting corner then a steep bulge with a crack.
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14 | Dingbats - avec Wendy Eden | 50m | Pourrie | |||
This is really not good. Poor rock, poor gear, don't bother.
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17 | Banshee - avec Wendy Eden | 50m | Pas la peine | |||
A small amount of ok rock, didn't seem worth a star
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Sam 19 Mars 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Grand Design - avec Gareth Llewellin | 54m, 1 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Remarkably good - great rock in first section, a bit contrived at the start (but that doesn't bother me), technical and good gear. The only thing I thought was odd was that there isn't good gear before the first bolt, and it's quite high up. Maybe another bolt would be a good idea? Nice 50m pitch.
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Mer 16 Mars 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
10 | ★ The Serpent's Venom - avec Wendy Eden | 60m | ★ Bon | |||
Quite good but I like Fall of Man into Bishop better as a grade 11 linkup
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Dim 13 Mars 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area | ||||||
15 | ★ Is It About A Bicycle? - avec Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Bon | |||
A bit grubbly getting around the traverse, over the loose looking block and past the tree, but then I really enjoyed the top bit. It's in a great position.
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6 | Jack-a-Dandy - avec Wendy Eden | 12m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Surprisingly OK, despite looking like a dirt filled rubbly corner
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Sam 12 Mars 2016 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | ||||||
The Ravine | ||||||
18 | ★ Hey Youse | 18m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Really nice incuts. Seems more like 18 to me.
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19 | ★ Waterfall Bogans - avec Clive Curson | 18m, 7 | ★ Bon | |||
Really nice incut holds.
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23 | ★★ Pain Criminals Link-up - avec Geordie Webb | 18m, 9 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Great varied climbing on nearly all big holds
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19 | ★★ Pains Ford | 18m, 8 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Great but a bit of a jug haul - liked the 23 more as it was more varied
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20 | ★★ Try Land | 17m, 7 | ★ Bon | |||
21 | ★ Brush with Authority - avec Clive Curson | 15m, 6 | ★ Bon | |||
Only dim memories but I think it was a bit scary at the start and hard after that
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19 18 | ★ Glue Mountains - avec Geordie Webb | 20m, 8 | ★ Bon | |||
I found this quite technical and sustained - maybe it was just first route on a humid day
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17 18 | ★ Gaybarry - avec Geordie Webb | 20m, 7 | ★ Bon | |||
Easier if you're tall - one reachy move.
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Jeu 3 Mars 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area | ||||||
20 | ★ Eye Spy | 30m | ★ Bon | |||
Start seemed hard and not well protected. The rest is a good variant to AO.
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Jeu 4 Fév 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Mysteries Wall | ||||||
17 | A Night to Remember - avec Kate Dooley | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Nice but all too short. Great position. Gear is poor in the first 5m or so.
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Lun 18 Jan 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
18 | Puggle Burrow | 26m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Maybe easier if you're tall?
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20 | ★ Indecisivity | 15m, 5 | ★ Bon | |||
Turned out better than originally thought. Maybe 19?
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23 | ★★ Misunderestimated | 15m, 1 | ★★ Excellent | |||
One of those that would be much harder placing the gear. Very tenuous with no actual footholds. Flashed by Lou on TR - impressive!
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Dim 17 Jan 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle | ||||||
18 19 | ★★ No Turning Back | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
Easy if you're tall. Quite fun.
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22 | ★ Totally Foxed! | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
Good climbing but I wouldn't lead this.
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19 | Unemploid - avec Kate Dooley | 15m | Pas la peine | |||
Just one move then suss rock and gear.
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Dim 17 Jan 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | ||||||
18 19 | Frontispiece - avec Wendy Eden | 30m | Pas la peine | |||
There probably is ok climbing under all the vegetation and loose rock, but I won't be rushing back
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Dim 10 Jan 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
18 | Pritchard's Neuralgia | 26m | ★ Bon | |||
At least 18 - more if you plug up the crucial jam with gear! Beware large loose block in the middle.
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12 | ★ Eat Your Greens - avec Wendy Eden | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Would be better finishing up and right to Wild Mountain Thyme's chains. A little stiff for 10 Nod!
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Dim 3 Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area | ||||||
Lake Bellfield Pastoral Buttress Main Cliff | ||||||
22 | ★ Cocky Calamity - avec Wendy Eden | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
A good onsight by Wendy. Quite insecure after the crux.
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18 | ★★ Skirt Alert - avec Wendy Eden | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
Good, odd low angle fine grain rock, some delicate bridging
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19 | ★ Udder Shudder - avec Wendy Eden | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
18 | ★ Spare Rib - avec Wendy Eden | 20m | Dans la moyenne | |||
A very hard start, then ok, then something about the finish, maybe loose.
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Dim 3 Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area | ||||||
Town Cliffs The Radiator | ||||||
19 | ★★ Hot - avec Wendy Eden | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
The route to do, good climbing and position.
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22 | ★ Feel the Heat - avec Wendy Eden | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Seemed very tough for 20, good locks but feet scarce on the bulge
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19 | The Only Way is Up - avec Wendy Eden | 26m | Dans la moyenne | |||
OK climbing with a loose odd block on the crux. Happy to tr it.
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14 | Dirty Work - avec Wendy Eden | 25m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Appropriately named - the top desintegrates into a dirt and chockstone filled groove. Go L for rock, if not gear.
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Dim 3 Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area | ||||||
Northern Wonderland Range The Wall of China Main Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Checkpoint Charlie - avec Wendy Eden | 25m, 5 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Worth taking gear! While the new bolts are good, the old one on the crux don't look great, and the last bolt is not a ring, it's a FH so if you want to lower off a single ring use the second last bolt. It's also easy to traverse to the rings on Sprung.
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22 21 | ★ Sacred Ground - avec Wendy Eden | 25m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
An absolutely desperate start leads to easing climbing. Hard for 21, what would adam demmert know about climbing 21?
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22 | ★★ Sprung - avec Wendy Eden | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classique | |||
I thought this was lovely - great pockets, great rock, nicely sustained. Dodgy bolts but you can't have everything!
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Dim 3 Jan 2016 - Bundaleer Area | ||||||
Bundaleer | ||||||
17 | ★★ Gerontian - avec Zoe Wilkinson | 46m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Recently attempted this with one #4 Camalot and backed off - the wires aren't convincing. Tried to do it in one pitch, which is also not great as the ledge causes the rope to pull out on your gear. Best to belay on the ledge.
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24 | The Price You Pay Direct | 20m | Dans la moyenne | |||
18 | ★★ Island Cruise | 30m | Dans la moyenne | |||
17 | ★★ Odysseus | 84m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Done cause it was raining and a bit was dry.
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12 | ★★ Scarab | 59m, 1 | ★ Bon | |||
Wandery but has some good bits
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16 | ★★ The Frog - avec Wendy Eden | 45m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Remarkably good, doesn't look that great from the ground. Slings and biners to rap off as of early 2016
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19 | Crash Dive | 25m | Pas la peine | |||
Poor rock
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21 | ★★★ Pathos | 28m | ★★ Excellent | |||
20 | ★★ Blanketty Blank | 28m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Remember something a bit dodgy about this route - maybe not such great gear or loose rock?
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24 25 | ★★ Bliss | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
25 | ★★ Ostler | 60m | ★ Bon | |||
Thin and hard
|
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21 20 | ★★★ Blimp | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | |||
22 | ★★ Lunging for Melons | 15m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Very odd!
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25 | ★★ Manic Depressive - avec Paul Hoskins | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classique | |||
25 24 | Fistful of Steel | 15m | Dans la moyenne | |||
27 | ★★ Angular Perspective (to first chain) - avec Dave Jones | 12m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Dave and I both did it in bare feet - I'm sure it's easier without shoes as you can get your toes in the pockets for the dyno.
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Dim 13 Déc 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Pet Parsley | 30m, 1 | ★ Bon | |||
Nice rock and climbing. Wanders a little and gets progressively easier but well worthwhile
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Sam 12 Déc 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
13 | Blue Toes | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Thin on gear in upper half.
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13 15 | ★ Greenfingers | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Thin on gear in upper half.
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18 | ★ Brown Thumb - avec Wendy Eden | 15m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
Take care with the start which is fairly hard and tricky to find the gear. A mid size hex or #12 Rock would go well, but a Yellow Camalot and #3 RP work too.
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19 | ★ I Am Not A Pork Chop | 15m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Wendy finds this 20ish and I find it about 18 so it might be a little reachy.
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Sam 5 Déc 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
14 | Pitchfork - avec Wendy Eden | 40m | Dans la moyenne | |||
OK climbing but has two large loose blocks. Be ware.
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15 | ★ A Weed in the Garden - avec Wendy Eden | 26m | ★ Bon | |||
Good climbing all the way. Fun.
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16 | ★ Babylon - avec Wendy Eden | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Take a #2 RP for the start, and a single rack of cams. Great climbing and rock. And gear - lots of great wires. Just did the first pitch. If you want to avoid the slightly exciting start crux past the #2 RP you can traverse in from left or right.
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