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Ascensions dans Victoria comme croix de types variés par Douglas Hockly

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Affichage de 1 - 100 sur 970 ascensions.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Qualité
Dim 25 Déc 2016 - Arapiles
Northern Group Mysteries Wall
24 Free Will - avec Geordie Webb Trad mixte 20m, 4 Excellent
A great second ascent by Geordie minutes after the first. Good variety - a slippery seam, an awkward balancy crack, a weird traverse, crank through a roof and a headwall that can feel hard enough to be interesting if you're pumped - which I was. Good fun.

 
Mer 16 Nov. 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle
22 Fine Tune - avec Wendy Eden Trad 16m Dans la moyenne
Really contrived in the first bit, but fun thin face climbing.

 
Dim 13 Nov. 2016 - Arapiles
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall
21 Amazing Lace Direct Start Trad 23m Bon
Vaguely remember climbing is not that hard but gear is not that good

 
Ven 11 Nov. 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress
22 Family Food - avec becca saurus Trad 20m Bon
Quite interesting, doesn't seem to have much gear, esp at the start which is the crux

 
Mer 6 Juil 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
22 Running Amok - avec Wendy Eden Trad mixte 15m, 1 Excellent
10 laps training in my Become Adam Demmert programme. Having the plastic surgery next week - so excited! Conditions a bit warm, had to climb shirtless by the end.

 
Jeu 9 Juin 2016 - Arapiles
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom
23 Rain Aneurysm - avec Wendy Eden Trad mixte 35m, 2 Bon
Easy chossy start but the business is good rock and an interesting crux down low (if you're tall) and sustained up high.

 
Dim 5 Juin 2016 - Arapiles
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom
19 Silent Senile Running Foxes - avec Wendy Eden Trad 35m Bon
I thought this was quite good - apart from being diagonal, the rock's pretty good (apart from the start) and the climbing's quite interesting.

 
16 Heart Full of Soul - avec Wendy Eden, Kylie Jarrett, Kane Hendy Trad 60m Bon
As I was seconding I could go up the 'mossy slab' which is quite nice climbing and rock. Not recommended to lead as it has no gear, but I might put a few bolts in it. This improves the route as it's more direct and better climbing - I thought it was a pretty good two pitch route. Amazing old twisted pine on top.

 
21 Only Fools Eat Marmite Trad 30m Bon
Jeu 2 Juin 2016 - Arapiles
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom
18 Perpetual Standstill - avec Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark Trad 40m Bon
It's a shame that the rock is not so great on this as it's a nice long pitch which is fairly sustained and ends up in a terrific position right on the top arete of the buttress. There is one pretty obvious loose block at about 8m to avoid. A good onsight lead by Wendy!

 
13 Sundowner - avec Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark Trad 30m Bon
The start's quite good, then the rock quality falls away a bit. Take a few big cams if you want to climb the LH corner, fortunately the RH corner has good normal sized gear and ok climbing.

 
22 Cream Between - avec Wendy Eden Trad 30m Bon
I would describe it as 'horiffically smooth', but hey. The initial groove looks like 24 and is at least 19 and then the bulge has a hard slopey topout. (this may be a new direct finish). Then a bit of a loose and blocky ramble to the top but the bottom is quite worthwhile and the most-not-16 route I have ever done.

 
Sam 28 Mai 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
23 Walking Amok Trad 15m Excellent
Lun 23 Mai 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
21 Meekly Unconcerned Trad 15m Bon
Good climbing with some dodgy rock (gave it a good kick on second though) and some moss and dirt at the top. Great onsight lead by Wendy!

 
Sam 21 Mai 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
23 22 Running Amok - avec Wendy Eden Trad mixte 15m, 1 Excellent
Might be 23. Great climbing on big holds, easier and better protected than Amok!

 
Mer 18 Mai 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
24 23 Walking Simulator Trad mixte 12m, 2 Bon
Amazing. Incredible. My whole life as a climber has culminated in this. At least today it did.

 
17 16 Guider not a climber - avec Wendy Eden Trad 15m Bon
This is good! Needs a brush but nice rock and moves.

 
Dim 15 Mai 2016 - Arapiles
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom
19 Coeur de Lion - avec Wendy Eden Trad 43m Classique
Awesome in the first half, the rest is much easier and some loose rock but wow the first half is amazing. Like a harder version of Toccata, and now has a rap station.

 
Sam 14 Mai 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
22 Under Control - avec Ben Weissner Trad 30m Dans la moyenne
Quite fun in bottom half, then very mossy and easier

 
Dim 1 Mai 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
17 Armchair critic - avec Wendy Eden Trad 15m Dans la moyenne
Quite fun and a good lead onsight by Wend.

 
21 Ice is Nice - avec Wendy Eden Trad 12m Dans la moyenne
Felt hard even on tr.

 
Dim 10 Avr 2016 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
15 No Space for Boxes Trad 30m Dans la moyenne
Sam 9 Avr 2016 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
20 Stillborn - avec Wendy Eden Trad 20m Bon
Pretty hard and would be a pretty goey lead. Interesting climbing for the first 10m or so.

 
Sam 9 Avr 2016 - Arapiles
Northern Group Evelyn and Lou Area
17 Lou's Not 19 (Anymore) Trad 4m Pas la peine
20 Greg Will be Pleased - avec Wendy Eden Trad 9m Pas la peine
Very short and bouldery at the start with no gear.

 
22 Greg will be Amused - avec Wendy Eden Trad mixte 10m, 2 Dans la moyenne
22 Lou Direct - avec Wendy Eden Trad 12m Bon
Probably better than the original

 
24 Man on the Land - avec Wendy Eden Trad 12m Bon
This is really quite good. Just toproped it, I think the gear would be quite tough to place on lead. Nice rock.

 
Dim 3 Avr 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
23 Procrastinationable - avec Wendy Eden Trad 26m Bon
A good problem in the first half - I find the move to the roof strangely difficult to find a sequence for.

 
Sam 26 Mars 2016 - Arapiles
Northern Group Shiralee Wall
8 Cold Episode of Influenza - avec Wendy Eden Trad 25m Bon
Nice!

 
15 I am a Banana Expert - avec Wendy Eden Trad mixte 25m, 2 Bon
Nice steady climbing. Take small cams. Might be 16? We're really not sure at these grades.

 
18 Great Sleeping Weather - avec Wendy Eden Trad mixte 25m, 3 Bon
Good fun, three interesting sections

 
17 Tallness is something Other People Suffer From - avec Wendy Eden Trad mixte 25m, 2 Dans la moyenne
Typically bold, take microcams and be prepared to run it out. Super bunched on the crux.

 
17 17 R The Crumpet Didn't Front - avec Wendy Eden Trad 25m Bon
I thought this was quite good. The rock's not perfect and it's quite bold - there is no gear for the crux and you'll hit a ledge, and maybe the ground later. The climbing is interesting though and varied and feels like a bit of an adventure.

 
Mer 23 Mars 2016 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area
The Ravine
20 18 Point Perpetrator - avec Wendy Eden Sportive 17m, 6 Bon
and this seemed more like 20 with a tricky start if you're not short. Wish I was short.

 
22 21 Minced Beef Eaters - avec Wendy Eden Sportive 20m Bon
Pre clipped the second bolt for the full Dougpoint.

 
20 21 Lake Thelma - avec Wendy Eden Sportive 18m, 7 Bon
Mer 23 Mars 2016 - Arapiles
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork
17 Ed's Super Sarnie - avec Ben Weissner Trad 15m Dans la moyenne
While it feels like every hold will snap off and the gear is behind the holds I had a good wobble up this. I don't think the climbing's that great but it's an exciting adventure. Both Ben and I thought it was tricky for the grade, but we were both having a tired day.

 
Dim 20 Mars 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
17 The Nile - avec Kieran Lawton Trad 110m Excellent
Great climbing on the middle pitch.

 
Dim 20 Mars 2016 - Arapiles
Northern Group Shiralee Wall
20 The Shiralee Direct - avec Wendy Eden Trad mixte 20m, 1 Excellent
This is really good - slabby start, interesting corner then a steep bulge with a crack.

 
14 Dingbats - avec Wendy Eden Trad 50m Pourrie
This is really not good. Poor rock, poor gear, don't bother.

 
17 Banshee - avec Wendy Eden Trad 50m Pas la peine
A small amount of ok rock, didn't seem worth a star

 
Sam 19 Mars 2016 - Arapiles
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
19 Grand Design - avec Gareth Llewellin Trad mixte 54m, 1 Excellent
Remarkably good - great rock in first section, a bit contrived at the start (but that doesn't bother me), technical and good gear. The only thing I thought was odd was that there isn't good gear before the first bolt, and it's quite high up. Maybe another bolt would be a good idea? Nice 50m pitch.

 
Mer 16 Mars 2016 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock South Mitre
10 The Serpent's Venom - avec Wendy Eden Trad 60m Bon
Quite good but I like Fall of Man into Bishop better as a grade 11 linkup

 
Dim 13 Mars 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area
15 Is It About A Bicycle? - avec Wendy Eden Trad 12m Bon
A bit grubbly getting around the traverse, over the loose looking block and past the tree, but then I really enjoyed the top bit. It's in a great position.

 
6 Jack-a-Dandy - avec Wendy Eden Trad 12m Dans la moyenne
Surprisingly OK, despite looking like a dirt filled rubbly corner

 
Sam 12 Mars 2016 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area
The Ravine
18 Hey Youse Sportive 18m, 7 Excellent
Really nice incuts. Seems more like 18 to me.

 
19 Waterfall Bogans - avec Clive Curson Sportive 18m, 7 Bon
Really nice incut holds.

 
23 Pain Criminals Link-up - avec Geordie Webb Sportive 18m, 9 Excellent
Great varied climbing on nearly all big holds

 
19 Pains Ford Sportive 18m, 8 Excellent
Great but a bit of a jug haul - liked the 23 more as it was more varied

 
20 Try Land Sportive 17m, 7 Bon
21 Brush with Authority - avec Clive Curson Sportive 15m, 6 Bon
Only dim memories but I think it was a bit scary at the start and hard after that

 
19 18 Glue Mountains - avec Geordie Webb Sportive 20m, 8 Bon
I found this quite technical and sustained - maybe it was just first route on a humid day

 
17 18 Gaybarry - avec Geordie Webb Sportive 20m, 7 Bon
Easier if you're tall - one reachy move.

 
Jeu 3 Mars 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area
20 Eye Spy Trad 30m Bon
Start seemed hard and not well protected. The rest is a good variant to AO.

 
Jeu 4 Fév 2016 - Arapiles
Northern Group Mysteries Wall
17 A Night to Remember - avec Kate Dooley Trad 15m Bon
Nice but all too short. Great position. Gear is poor in the first 5m or so.

 
Lun 18 Jan 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
18 Puggle Burrow Trad 26m Dans la moyenne
Maybe easier if you're tall?

 
20 Indecisivity Trad mixte 15m, 5 Bon
Turned out better than originally thought. Maybe 19?

 
23 Misunderestimated Trad mixte 15m, 1 Excellent
One of those that would be much harder placing the gear. Very tenuous with no actual footholds. Flashed by Lou on TR - impressive!

 
Dim 17 Jan 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle
18 19 No Turning Back Trad 20m Bon
Easy if you're tall. Quite fun.

 
22 Totally Foxed! Trad 20m Bon
Good climbing but I wouldn't lead this.

 
19 Unemploid - avec Kate Dooley Trad 15m Pas la peine
Just one move then suss rock and gear.

 
Dim 17 Jan 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls
18 19 Frontispiece - avec Wendy Eden Trad 30m Pas la peine
There probably is ok climbing under all the vegetation and loose rock, but I won't be rushing back

 
Dim 10 Jan 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
18 Pritchard's Neuralgia Trad 26m Bon
At least 18 - more if you plug up the crucial jam with gear! Beware large loose block in the middle.

 
12 Eat Your Greens - avec Wendy Eden Trad 15m Bon
Would be better finishing up and right to Wild Mountain Thyme's chains. A little stiff for 10 Nod!

 
Dim 3 Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area
Lake Bellfield Pastoral Buttress Main Cliff
22 Cocky Calamity - avec Wendy Eden Trad 20m Excellent
A good onsight by Wendy. Quite insecure after the crux.

 
18 Skirt Alert - avec Wendy Eden Trad 20m Bon
Good, odd low angle fine grain rock, some delicate bridging

 
19 Udder Shudder - avec Wendy Eden Trad 20m Bon
18 Spare Rib - avec Wendy Eden Trad 20m Dans la moyenne
A very hard start, then ok, then something about the finish, maybe loose.

 
Dim 3 Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area
Town Cliffs The Radiator
19 Hot - avec Wendy Eden Trad 25m Excellent
The route to do, good climbing and position.

 
22 Feel the Heat - avec Wendy Eden Trad 15m Bon
Seemed very tough for 20, good locks but feet scarce on the bulge

 
19 The Only Way is Up - avec Wendy Eden Trad 26m Dans la moyenne
OK climbing with a loose odd block on the crux. Happy to tr it.

 
14 Dirty Work - avec Wendy Eden Trad 25m Dans la moyenne
Appropriately named - the top desintegrates into a dirt and chockstone filled groove. Go L for rock, if not gear.

 
Dim 3 Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area
Northern Wonderland Range The Wall of China Main Wall
17 Checkpoint Charlie - avec Wendy Eden Trad mixte 25m, 5 Dans la moyenne
Worth taking gear! While the new bolts are good, the old one on the crux don't look great, and the last bolt is not a ring, it's a FH so if you want to lower off a single ring use the second last bolt. It's also easy to traverse to the rings on Sprung.

 
22 21 Sacred Ground - avec Wendy Eden Sportive 25m, 5 Excellent
An absolutely desperate start leads to easing climbing. Hard for 21, what would adam demmert know about climbing 21?

 
22 Sprung - avec Wendy Eden Sportive 25m, 6 Classique
I thought this was lovely - great pockets, great rock, nicely sustained. Dodgy bolts but you can't have everything!

 
Dim 3 Jan 2016 - Bundaleer Area
Bundaleer
17 Gerontian - avec Zoe Wilkinson Trad 46m Excellent
Recently attempted this with one #4 Camalot and backed off - the wires aren't convincing. Tried to do it in one pitch, which is also not great as the ledge causes the rope to pull out on your gear. Best to belay on the ledge.

 
24 The Price You Pay Direct Trad 20m Dans la moyenne
18 Island Cruise Trad 30m Dans la moyenne
17 Odysseus Trad 84m Dans la moyenne
Done cause it was raining and a bit was dry.

 
12 Scarab Trad mixte 59m, 1 Bon
Wandery but has some good bits

 
16 The Frog - avec Wendy Eden Trad 45m Excellent
Remarkably good, doesn't look that great from the ground. Slings and biners to rap off as of early 2016

 
19 Crash Dive Trad 25m Pas la peine
Poor rock

 
21 Pathos Trad 28m Excellent
20 Blanketty Blank Trad 28m Dans la moyenne
Remember something a bit dodgy about this route - maybe not such great gear or loose rock?

 
24 25 Bliss Trad 20m Bon
25 Ostler Trad 60m Bon
Thin and hard

 
21 20 Blimp Trad mixte 25m, 1 Classique
22 Lunging for Melons Sportive 15m, 5 Excellent
Very odd!

 
25 Manic Depressive - avec Paul Hoskins Sportive 20m, 7 Classique
25 24 Fistful of Steel Trad 15m Dans la moyenne
27 Angular Perspective (to first chain) - avec Dave Jones Sportive 12m Classique
Dave and I both did it in bare feet - I'm sure it's easier without shoes as you can get your toes in the pockets for the dyno.

 
Dim 13 Déc 2015 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
18 Pet Parsley Trad mixte 30m, 1 Bon
Nice rock and climbing. Wanders a little and gets progressively easier but well worthwhile

 
Sam 12 Déc 2015 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
13 Blue Toes Trad 15m Bon
Thin on gear in upper half.

 
13 15 Greenfingers Trad 15m Bon
Thin on gear in upper half.

 
18 Brown Thumb - avec Wendy Eden Trad mixte 15m, 2 Bon
Take care with the start which is fairly hard and tricky to find the gear. A mid size hex or #12 Rock would go well, but a Yellow Camalot and #3 RP work too.

 
19 I Am Not A Pork Chop Sportive 15m, 4 Excellent
Wendy finds this 20ish and I find it about 18 so it might be a little reachy.

 
Sam 5 Déc 2015 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
14 Pitchfork - avec Wendy Eden Trad 40m Dans la moyenne
OK climbing but has two large loose blocks. Be ware.

 
15 A Weed in the Garden - avec Wendy Eden Trad 26m Bon
Good climbing all the way. Fun.

 
16 Babylon - avec Wendy Eden Trad 25m Excellent
Take a #2 RP for the start, and a single rack of cams. Great climbing and rock. And gear - lots of great wires. Just did the first pitch. If you want to avoid the slightly exciting start crux past the #2 RP you can traverse in from left or right.

 

Affichage de 1 - 100 sur 970 ascensions.

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