Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | |||
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Mer 5 Juin 2024 - Scout Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Muppets | 10m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Rpt.
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15 | ★ Venturing On | 10m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Whales all around. Including me on the ledge. Tried to make it harder for interest
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17 | ★★ V groove | 9m | ★ Bon | |||
A little seepy today
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Jeu 30 Mai 2024 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Middle Crag | ||||||
17 | ★ Visage | 9m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
10 | ★ Significance | 7m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Jeu 30 Mai 2024 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
12 | ★ Chutney | 13m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Sam 2 Mars 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs White Stack | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Mithras | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Rpt. My wrist is getting worse rather than better, could barely undercling or jam and it hurt abseiling-off to the physio.
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Sam 24 Fév 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Rockaway and Amphitheatre | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Resurrection Shuffle | 30m | ★ Bon | |||
The first half was fine, but a crack that stays wide blue for ever in the second half is my anti style and I’m not that interested in embracing the pain.
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Mer 21 Fév 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Bulging Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★ Smokin' | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Saw the anchors on way down and did a quick TR lap. Would feel stout placing gear, quite bouldery.
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Ven 16 Fév 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Hazards Cliffs Hazards Main Wall (Low Starting Point) | ||||||
16 | ★★ Pneisses | 240m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Microtraxioned my way up as the third wheel. Nice enough day out.
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Jeu 15 Fév 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Harlequin | 28m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Rpt.
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22 | ★★★ Beaman's Route Direct | 25m, 1 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Tried more layback on first go which was possible but very strenuous and then more conventional jamming second go. Nice to be back on rock after 3 weeks off.
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Ven 19 Jan 2024 - The You Yangs | ||||||
Great Circle Drive North Gravel Pit Tor Area | ||||||
20 | ★ Blue Sky Thinking — 2 essais | 25m, 4 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Ouch, rather sharp. These climbs were west facing but fortunately an overcast day. So nice not to be in a plus 20 dew point for a change!
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16 | ★ Blue Skies From Grey | 18m, 2 | Dans la moyenne | |||
17 | ★ Can't Buy a Thrill | 16m, 2 | Dans la moyenne | |||
17 | ★ Asylum for the Insane | 22m, 3 | Dans la moyenne | |||
A quick diversion while waiting for the ferry
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Dim 7 Jan 2024 - Fingal Gym | ||||||
15 | ★ Wide Horizon | 8m | ★ Bon | |||
Original ascent solo, rpt today
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17 | ★ Cliff Limit | 11m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Rpt.
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Sam 23 Déc 2023 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
Dolphin Walls Upper | ||||||
19 | ★★ Semi Retirement | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
Rpt, exit.
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21 | ★★★ Fin Crack — 2 essais | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
My hand greased off one hold and unexpectedly slipped. Got back on and went through. The mantle up the top is seeming tougher than before.
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23 | ★★ Moby Dick | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Had to redeem myself for the slip on Fin crack
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Sam 23 Déc 2023 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
Dolphin Walls Lower | ||||||
19 | ★★ Turkish Delight | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
Rpt
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20 | ★★ Cadbury Flake | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★★ Houdini | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
The good weather day between the rain. Suffering from post vax aches and pains, but better than laying on the couch.
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Mar 19 Déc 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
Roof pro- closed | 19m, 6 | ★ Bon | ||||
A couple more goes, feeling a lot better on the lower section and sorted the finish but still missing a solution to the crux as Daves bridge solution leaves me too low.
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Sam 16 Déc 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
Roof pro- closed | 19m, 6 | ★ Bon | ||||
Still baffled by a 2 m section. Getting some linkage. I think we need to work on presses.
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16 | ★★ Flake | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Rpt
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Ven 15 Déc 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
Roof pro- closed | 19m, 6 | ★ Bon | ||||
finally back on this after a long time, not through want of trying. Quite greasy conditions today. Dave making much better progress
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Jeu 14 Déc 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Barley Walls | ||||||
22 | ★★ Snuggles and the Dragon | 30m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Rpt, didn’t have wires with us. Fun route.
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Lun 11 Déc 2023 - Fingal Gym | ||||||
17 | ★ Little Frog | 11m | ★ Bon | |||
Rpt
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Dim 26 Nov. 2023 - Chapman's Hill | ||||||
The Towers | ||||||
10 | Orchid arete | 7m | ||||
Probably done off the top ropes a bit, it was fairly clean.
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Dim 19 Nov. 2023 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
20 | ★ Opium | 15m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
My left hand strayed towards the HS holds down low, as the right heel, lay off sloper to side pull felt more 25 for my height, and still tough up top. Not sure where the wires go, would be shallow placements in a flake I think- would be better with extra bolt and a second anchor bolt
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Sam 11 Nov. 2023 - Blackwall | ||||||
Red Head Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Grand Canyon | 10m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Sam 1 Juil 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Middle Crag | ||||||
14 | ★★ I'd Rather be Canoeing | 18m | ★ Bon | |||
Rpt, nice climbing, very spaced gear. I’ve done my due in past times
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17 | ★ Visage | 9m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
Rpt, much nicer today after a bit of traffic. Probably should be 19
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10 | ★ Significance | 7m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Rpt
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10 | Marginal Existence | 7m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Done this a few times and the start is quite hard as is continuing up offwidth on lead. I will argue for upgrade. The start is at least a metre lower than the old days
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15 | Brand X | 13m | Pas la peine | |||
Some offwidth practice.
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Jeu 22 Juin 2023 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
North Zenith Trade Wind Slabs | ||||||
17 | ★ Seam | 35m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
The seams not the hard bit
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16 | ★ Twin cracks | 35m | ★ Bon | |||
Nice cracks
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17 | ★★ Huecos | 35m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
More nice slabbing
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Mer 21 Juin 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Middle Crag | ||||||
20 | Plum line | 10m, 3 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Rpt
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Dim 18 Juin 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Stopper Walls | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Weena | 30m, 2 | ★★ Excellent | |||
2 sits, better friction than last week. Worth it to get john Wilde back in the saddle
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13 | ★ Stopper (Direct) | 35m | ★ Bon | |||
Rpt
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Dim 18 Juin 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Turkey Walls | ||||||
21 | ★★ Profanity | 14m | ★★ Excellent | |||
One slip in off fingers section
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19 | ★★ Bereska — 2 essais | 18m, 2 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Felt too tricky as the warm up, did it later in the day
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Lun 12 Juin 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Stopper Walls | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Weena | 30m, 2 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Rpt to clean. 2 snakes visible but neither impacting the route. Required a few rests, was hot in the sun.
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Sam 10 Juin 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Smear Slabs | ||||||
14 | ★ Hang in there Baby | 20m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Rpt, cleaning
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Sam 10 Juin 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Space Ape Area | ||||||
14 | ★ Orangutang | 6m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Mar 6 Juin 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Middle Crag | ||||||
17 | ★ Visage | 9m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
For a short climb this is full on. Gave it a good brush.
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10 | ★ Significance | 7m | Dans la moyenne | |||
10 | Marginal Existence | 7m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Chicken wings
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Ven 2 Juin 2023 - Warrumbungles | ||||||
Crater Bluff | ||||||
14 | ★★★ Cornerstone Rib | 190m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Fond but sad memories from my previous ascent of this with Nick. Did it today from Blackmans camp with Dave and Jonty. The rocks average but the experience is great.
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Jeu 1 Juin 2023 - Warrumbungles | ||||||
Canyon Cliffs | ||||||
19 | ★★ Is This Love? | 35m | ★ Bon | |||
There’s a big block to the left as you reach the ledge that looks like it’s ripe to plummet
|
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11 | ★ Prologue | 25m | ||||
Ushering up the grandson and then his first abseil
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Dim 28 Mai 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Ramparts | ||||||
23 | ★★ Taipan Wall | 25m, 6 | ★ Bon | |||
A couple of rests remembering the sequence post footer breakage
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21 | ★ Strapidbisectomy | 17m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
15 | Adrenaline Wall | 25m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
22 | ★ Waynes Route | 25m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
19 R | ★★ Garbage Blaster | 26m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Getting out at least despite feeling poorly
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Jeu 11 Mai 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
12 | ★ Chutney | 13m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Yep, shoulder unhappy laybacking.
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Jeu 11 Mai 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Turkey Walls | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bereska | 18m, 2 | ★★ Excellent | |||
19 in a parallel universe. Always requires thinking Mc the middle part has changed over the years
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Sam 29 Avr 2023 - Scout Wall | ||||||
15 | Dob Dob Dob | 11m | ||||
Did another couple of eliminates as well on this wall. Getting in before rain and iris moore way too spoogy
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16 | ★ Dib Dib Dib | 10m | Dans la moyenne | |||
15 | ★ Woggle | 10m | Dans la moyenne | |||
17 | ★★ V groove | 9m | ★ Bon | |||
18 | ★ Tea Bag | 8m | ★ Bon | |||
Rpt. Felt like it deserved a v grade. Steep for the short.
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Mar 25 Avr 2023 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
21 | ★★ Wiggle It Just A Little Bit — 2 essais | 15m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Rpt. Really needs a bolt added, the cam placement can get quite sandy, hardest move of day at start
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Dim 23 Avr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity | 22m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Rpt, always lovely
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18 | ★ Joslab | 23m, 3 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Rpt, we thought we were about to get rained out. Tried the left variant finish as well.
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14 | ★★ Joseph | 46m | ★ Bon | |||
Rpt
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Lun 10 Avr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Transporter | 20m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Rpt, enjoyable 3 d climbing, probably deserves anchors after all the trees burnt a few years back
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Dim 9 Avr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops North Face | ||||||
19 | ★★ Mis Led | 18m | ★ Bon | |||
Rpt on Clive’s rope.
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21 R | ★★ Pork Orgy | 15m, 1 | ★ Bon | |||
I still can’t believe I led this 17 years ago. I must have been mad.
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14 | ★ Deep Water | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Rpt. Soloed first time, led on gear this time, lots of small cams in horizontals
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9 | ★★ Short Shrift | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Rpt
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10 | ★ Self-abuse | 18m | ★ Bon | |||
Rpt
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10 | ★★ Thanks for the Mammaries | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Rpt
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Sam 8 Avr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
18 | ★★ Juicy Rumours | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Rpt, another nice trad classic
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21 | ★★ Shades of Grey | 32m | ★ Bon | |||
Rpt. Would need a bit of cleaning testing out the new anchors over burning spear.
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19 | ★★ Burning Spear | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Rpt, such a nice route
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Jeu 6 Avr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
17 | ★★ Guided Missile | 80m | Pas la peine | |||
Rpt first pitch which is not too bad and worth doing but suggest abseil off tree. The loose blocks on P2 are still there and it was an unpleasant experience. P 3 ok. Going don’t bother because it’s a potentially dangerous route at present
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Ven 17 Mars 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
13 | ★★ Dunes Direct | 100m | ★★ Excellent | |||
I think Dave did variant on P2 left of the actual line at grade 16/17, it was cobwebbed and no chalk, but quite good.
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Jeu 16 Mars 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | ||||||
18 ~19 | ★ Interlude | 35m, 2 | ||||
The bottom crux felt 18. The top crux past the second bolt is scary for leader as invisible from ground above a ledge and at least a grade harder. Dave pointed to the good hold to top out. Definitely would not be physio approved…
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13 | ★★ Stalagmite | 36m | ★ Bon | |||
Quite enjoyable
|
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11 | ★ Transylvania | 60m, 1 | ★ Bon | |||
Nice start and crux. Convenient anchors. Not sure the physio would approve, but she did say I could climb easy stuff…
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18 | ★ Subliminal Cut | 18m | ★ Bon | |||
Apparently been on this before
|
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12 | ★ Josie's Climb | 50m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Lovely rock architecture, wasn’t really looking for pro but it appeared spaced.
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Mer 15 Mars 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
17 ~18 | ★★ Discord Direct | 25m, 2 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Pretty good varied climb but slippery in spots. Didn’t want to risk falling and reinjuring my back
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22 R | Friendless | 40m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Personal top rope grade 19, probably feels worse on lead. We did the start but finished through roof to right
|
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14 | ★★ Tremulo | 25m | ★ Bon | |||
Nothing like some hot desert air and vertical quartzite to help the bad back and junky chest
|
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Ven 24 Fév 2023 - Mystery cliffs | ||||||
Zone 1 | ||||||
16 | Louisach | 25m | ||||
FFA
|
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Jeu 23 Fév 2023 - Sisters Beach | ||||||
Corruption Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Harzweg | 15m, 4 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Felt sketchy in the spooge
|
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18 | ★ The Rapist — 2 essais | 15m | Dans la moyenne | |||
If I knew this was my second last day climbing for 6 weeks I would have gone somewhere else. Awful spoogy conditions in the howling on shore
|
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Dim 19 Fév 2023 - Devils Gullet | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Salmonella Crack | 55m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Harder for me due to large hand size than DC. Spent the mid section with a hand in a cam hook configuration. The chimney felt like a relief!
|
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Ven 17 Fév 2023 - Devils Gullet | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Divine Comedy | 100m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
The pitch only. The hype is worth it, what a great crack. Nice size for girl hands, varied throughout, it just keeps going. Only downer was the increasing weight of the mega rack Dave used. Seems like it had been done yesterday, so maybe was cleaner than normal. Shame the top pitch isn’t clean, it actually looks like it would be good climbing. Comments from yesterdays ascent made me laugh. That may have been me before I learnt to hand jam…
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Lun 13 Fév 2023 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Duck Reach Vamp Buttress | ||||||
23 | ★★ No Standing | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Thanks to whomever put in the new anchors since I was last here. This I think is my favourite route in the gorge. Got here a bit late, and it was damn hot, so had a single go to reacquaint myself, with one slip on the lower part, then time to go packrafting the Gorge!
|
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19 | ★★ No Parking | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Rpt, excellent crack
|
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Dim 12 Fév 2023 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
The Shady Side Dammit Area | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Dammit — 2 essais | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Well the start and end were good, suspect some rope assistance through the low crux and the upper one needed more work. Spent some time brushing someone else’s excessive chalk and tick marks- lest anyone think it was us, but it needs a good shower to clean it off. Will have to get fitter and return
|
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Mar 31 Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Icarus | 120m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Did the last 2 pitches in 3. Stopping at the notch seemed sensible. I led the last bit only which was not bad, but the crack below was good, though the chimney exit felt hard
|