Noeuds dans Bald Head

Extremely long single-pitch sport routes in an exposed location, sport multi-pitches and long trad adventure-multipitches.

The main Tiger-Striped wall, featuring many long routes around 50m in length. You will need a 60m rope minimum to fix and rap in on - and another to lead on. All routes apart from Just Don't Smoke are on good quality ringbolts - the bolting is usually quite spaced but with a smooth dead vertical wall there is not much to hit. Generally routes gets more runout in the top half and are closely spaced down low.

Rap in down The Opportunistic Pathogen and swing left to reach belay anchors about 5m left of that route. Up long wall to anchors about 5m below the cliff-top - ignore them and traverse hard right along break and up to top anchors you rappped in on.

Long clean face directly under the rap anchors. Rap down - climb up! Crux is in the first half then hang on for the ride up splendid orange jugs. For some reason this got zero stars in the print guides - it is a quality route - solid 2 stars.

Sustained face climbing with some pretty cool water polished rock. Rap in down The Opportunistic Pathogen and swing right to bolt belay below crackline. The route starts easily up this bolted crackline (shared with JVD) then takes a leftwards diagonal line up thin wall to eventually join The Opportunistic Pathogen for the last couple of bolts. The top section is a touch dirty from runoff but the holds you pull on are clean.

The easiest and tradiiest route on the wall - was the last to be climbed! Rap in from The Opportunistic Pathogen or Rocket Girl anchors to shared belay with The Dimerisation Interface. Both ways involve swinging across. From here follow the incredibly obvious cliff splitting crack to the top. Real trad climbers will ignore all the bolts next to the crack in the first 15m. Enjoy the pump! Bring a double rack with x1 #5 or #6. Belay off the double bolts on the slabby bit of rock about 10m up the hill from the cliff edge.

Stellar route up long orange face reminiscent of Bentrovarto Wall (but twice as long). There are so many cruxes by the time you reach the end of this you will have forgotten the first 25m. Has it's own bottom belay anchors about 5m left of Rocket Girl. Fix rap rope and swing left easily. The route is independent for about 11 bolts then joins the last 3 and top belay of Rocket Girl.

More quality endurance wall climbing. Fix rap rope to double bolts on the small slab of rock about 10m back from cliff edge. Rap down to reasonable sized ledge. This is the left line of bolts with a shared start.

Airily bolted and very thin. Shared start with Rocket Girl then right line of bolts. The top out is quite exciting as there is no top belay bolt to calm your nerves before the mantle. Belay way back on the slab.

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Cruxy crimpy start then long endurncy wall climbing. Starts on low ledge down right of Chemotherapy. The top third of this route is quite dirty but juggy and still fine to climb. Double bolt belay at top.

Incredible thin face. Must be one of the king lines of the Bluies. Does it actually have any holds? Get on it and try! First bolted in the late 90s so it is open for anyone to try.

Good climbing and even better position. Unlike some routes around here this has closely spaced bolts suitable for the terrified. Route starts from a hanging belay halfway up the Tiger Stripe Wall. To approach it fix a 60m rope to bolts on small slab of rock about 20m back from cliff edge (this slab only two bolts on it). Rap to cliff edge and top belay bolts (the furthest left of two sets on this end of Tiger Stripe Wall). Rap down the wall to a large scoop and the bottom belay bolts that are not visible from the top.

A smaller, shorter and less aesthetic wall featuring the original Bald Head route "Thinning On Top" and the wildly exposed "Advanced Air Studio".

Corner crack in position to die for. The rock is solid and the climb is well protected. Soft for the grade. Find two carrots at the top to rap down to a mini ledge. Start on the left of a boulder to climb up.

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Shared belay and start with Advanced Air then straight up the wall. Very pumpy! All ringbolts - but you will need bolt plates for top and bottom belay.

The wildly exposed arete at the right hand end of the wall. Well-protected, sustained face climbing just left of the arete proper, with average quality rock.

Originally graded 19, but may have gotten harder as holds snapped off and/or due to grade inflation. The bottom and top belay require bolt plates - the lead bolts are all rings.

Adventurous climbing on the lower walls beneath Weld Party, surrounding first two pitches of Serendipitous Cracks and east until gully. As this is a rap in/climb out area that faces north, consider going somewhere else if the temperatures are above late teens (unless there is no sun). It can be uncomfortably warm and is at its best when the temps are freezing. Strong westerlies and northerlies effect the wall, particularly Weld Party on the upper tier.

A much better mixed outing than its near neighbor, with a decent amount of well protected exposure. Rap either 50m from CTL anchor (down chain) or 60m from DUB higher near tree on ledge (The DUB are accessed by NOT going along the fixed ropes. Instead, 10m east (before) the fixed ropes, scramble 50m straight down the spur/ridge (take care, but it's not bad), then keep an eye out for a tree on a ledge to your left, which is where you will find the DUB). Make sure to not absiel all the way to the ground - the route starts off a vegetated ledge. Abseil too far and a 60m rope will not make it to the ground!

Bring 15 draws including a few long ones, a very small rack of wires, and single cams between 0.3 and 3. All bolts glue in SS, no bolt plates necessary. Starts beneath Ubolt 5m left of CTL.

1. 18m (14) Traverse above bolt into corner. Up to hand traverse beneath large block. Stay low for 4m easy runout before stepping up to large ledge. Step down at FH to ledge and single u-bolt belay.

2. 32m (21) Up veering left through steep horizontal breaks supplemented with bolts. Pass mantle then be sure to place #1 cam in pocket a few moves above next ubolt. Continue up through orange rock to good horizontal for #3 cam then steeply passing a few more bolts, up to spectacular spacious DUBB on prow of arete.

3. 15m (14) Walk directly right and into stemming corner (previously climbed?), up this then right onto face at chockstone/tree, up to ledge and single ubolt anchor backed up with med/large cam 3 metres behind.

Scramble along ledge directly beneath redbelly belay. Continue at this level for 50mtrs passing Electric Universe. Route is a long single pitch of Ubolts. Very chossy delicate first halve to a fun thuggy wall. The jug at lip off roof has been thoroughly reinforced. Belay at DUB then clip chain to walk off up spur. Inspiration for climb was a faster way to the top! 23 standard quickdraws including dub anchor at top.

A mixed route with bolted belays. All bolts are glue in FH's , ringbolts or Ubolts. No boltplates necessary.

Bring standard single rack including micro cams and DOUBLE #4 AND #5 CAMALOTS!!

First pitch is concealed by left arete of Redbelly Wall. Although the climb is 15m left of Redbelly , the small shute between them is loose. Approach by walking along small undercut ledge behind the detached block that forms the base of Redbelly. This brings you to base of wide corner and ringbolt. Stickclip the bolt as getting of the ground is tough.

1. 25m (18) Up awkwardly for a few meters then up passing three RBs to a DRB. A few #5 cams are handy both at the start and end of this route.

2. 15m (18) Ooze up, plug a #5 in and head out to arete passing a few bolts and a hidden hold. Tentatively place a few cams in break and carry on up arete jugs past a few more bolts to an arete slapping move. Belay on large comfortable ledge.

3. 20m (20) Re-establish belay at bolts 5m left under face. Up past small cam and wire then a few bolts. Pop a med cam in break then head right to a good handjam reach. Clip ubolt then froth on the crux of the whole route. Carry on over top and up to base of next obvious corner.

4. 20m (16) Plug in a big cam then up the corner. Stem left below first FH and continue through steep corner. Extend your last peice in crack and possibly place tiny cam on face on left before stepping left 2m on face to avoid dirty loose finish. 2xFH belay on edge above nice pedestal.

Stay roped up for loose edge and belay from cam, tree, or threads above on track.

Long pitch snaking its way up the middle of red wall to first DUB.

The awesome continuation of Red Bellied. Take a breather in the cave then get pumped for what essentially boils down to three punchy moves up the blackrock. Could be soft (and static) for tall folks.

Predominantly bolted route (no brackets required) but long pitches require a bit of gear too. Rap from big gumtree growing 15 meters before the dead casuarina on main ledge (Purkinje Arette belay). Rap directly down slope 15m to top anchor. Then 2 35 mtr rappels (f.a used 80mtr rope, unsure if 70 makes it). Of course you can walk to base via either of the established rap points at either end of crag, but this works well.

Gear 12 short draws, four alpine draws. Single rack up to #4, no wires, no micros. Double cams in #1, #2, #3

1. 35mtr 18 Up crack (f.a had gloves), past home made hanger/dynabolt and continue up corner, veering right when appropriate.

2. 35mtr 20 Pull on first bolt if you like (f.a didnt but much nicer!) then up. A single rack will suffice though maybe 2x #2 would be good.

Exit via u bolt on right toward casuarina so your not pulling rope up slope above. Not the worst route. A little wolganesque adventure.

The next two routes are accessed by scrambling up a steep gully using a fixed rope handline. Note there are still some very loose blocks in this gully - don't touch them and go one at a time.

Steep super 40m long mega-pitch that is shaded until midday. If you thought the '4 on the mainwall was a soft touch get on this! Nail the big dyno down low, then keep your shit together above. Quality movement up the spacey arete and plenty of sneaky rests. An 80m rope gets you down otherwise rethread.

A direct start to Purkinje Arete up steeper orangier rock. From top of handline to This Coming Fall scramble right along narrow ledge to single Ubolt belay (back it up with first bolt on route above).

1. 25m (21) Rounded arete with some unusual features and one incredible pocket just where you need it. Belay on small ledge.

2. 35m (21) Delicious orange rock past 3 bolts leads right into Purkinje Arete. For the best airy experience try and stick to the arete itself as much as possible - don't McDougal right onto the black slab. Lots of bolts on this pitch - perhaps 15+?

After rapping down Serendipitous Arette (55m) walk east past that wall and down another 50 meters to line of fixed hangers leading to prominent arete.

1. 40m (21). Heave ho up through laybacks, fistjams and meaty underclings onto long arching line , leaving the potential for the direct trad line if anyone dared clean it. No long draws required but you need 17. Double U bolt anchor on ledge.

2. 35m (21) Fantastic position. Up corner for a move then out and up. Some technical arete climbing interspersed with good rests. Belay from a single Ubolt on edge backed up by a glue in stainless 'carrot' 6m back on large boulder. A prussic or sling will suffice if you dont have a boltplate. (The Casuarina died in 2019 fire)

The only easy way to the top. From main wall walk down towards P.A and scramble 2mtrs up first slot with the aid of a tree root to a ledge with one BR. Belay first pitch here.

This route is equipped with glue-in stainless machine bolts and requires 14 bolt-plates.

1. 15m 5 Walk up loose gully passing bolt, clip next bolt to keep rope high (ignore a few draws hanging above) then walk left on ledge 5mtrs, then grovel up small corner a few meters past bolt and left some more to large ledge and single U-Bolt belay. Almost hiking.

2. 25m 17. Straight up face and into a ferny crux section to a 3BB.

3. 25m 17. Up. One belay bolt is 2m behind the first you will see. The belay ledge at top is nice but take great care getting up to track as hill is deceptively loose.

The left arete of the Serendipitous buttress. Named in honor of Nick McKinnon - a legend who left this planet too early. Starts about 18m left of Serendipitous and 5m right of the arete. Bring 14 draws - all belays are on ledges. It is possible to link pitches 2&3 or 3&4.

1. 15m (20) Tiny corner for a move then crank hard to horizontal break. Traverse left along this merrily for a couple of bolts then straight up short offwidth to big ledge.

2. 27m (24) The beaut arete. You can't miss it. Tough at the top. 12 bolts (aprox)

3. 15m (20) Continuation of the arete - a little dirty. 5 bolts.

4. 20m (13) Low angle ironstone face for 10m to vegetated ledge (single bolt) - scramble up hill for another 15m and sling tree to belay (communication may be difficult - suggest rapping back down to vegetated ledge and belaying there)

The wall about 3m right of the left arete of the buttress. Shares first few moves with Remembering McKinnon then blasts straight up the wall. Sustained and hard all the way. At a guess - grade 27ish at least?

Long, thin - probably hard.

Same start as Unknown 4 - but take left line of bolts almost immediately. Tagged project - stay off.

Another long wall. Starts about 6m left of Serendipitous Cracks, and tackles a prominent right-facing flake about 7m up. An extremely hard start guards a unique and memorable 23 (pull on first bolt if necessary). An 80m rope can just reach the ground on stretch (tie a knot in the end)! Spaced bolts in the first third make for some engaging climbing.

1.5m left of Serendipitous Cracks. Hard start on gluey crimps then endless pleasure up featured wall and crimps. Grade 22 or 23?

The major featured corner crack with a large tree at the base, in the middle of this orange wall is Serendipitous Crack. It is listed in the Balls Head - Longer Routes section on level up.

Long scoopy feature starting 2m right of Serendipitous Crack. Finishes through a couple of roofs up high.

Start 5m right of Serendipitous Cracks at small cairn (cairn has now collapsed , build another if you are short) , fantastic climbing on soft features , through small overlap. A rope stretcher but a 60m will just get you to the ground.

Sensational ladder of scoops to infinity. Starts in middle of highest little platform at base of cliff. Joins up with top third of Four Seasons and its climactic arete finish. Use an 80m rope, or re-thread part way down. If you lower from the last bolt on a 70m you JUST make it down.

Epic long sport climb. Named after the many and varied weather patterns that passed during second ascent efforts. Grunt your way through a steep start with a long span left from a pocket earning its grade then ooze up forever to a spectacular finale up hanging prow to lower-offs. 20 quickdraws!! An 80 meter rope gets you to the ground with stretch if you let the end pop through device otherwise rethread.

Another stunning climb , was to be named "The Lithgow Grip" but the hold is not necessary. see if you can find it! Starts at large U-bolt and heads straight up.

Climb to large first bolt of Pocket Rock It, head further right to next, then unclip first. Shuffle a double kneebar through average rock then straight into the business. Nothing too hard for grade, just a few long moves here and there. A 60 meter rope easily gets you to the ground. Would benefit from an extension to the top. It is possible to link into top few meters of Serendipitous Arette's pitch 1 thus avoiding crux's on both climbs and giving access to easy pitch 2 as means of topping out (about grade 22).

1. 30m (26) Steep arete. This pitch is excellent. Stick clip first bolt, jug on up to brilliant crux section and veer left to maintain quality climbing and gain comfortable belay/lower off. May lose a grade with chalk and draws on? Unexpected first shot at end of long day.

2. 25m (17) Heave Ho left then long line on ironstone to top and crag rap in anchors.

The long, adventurous, Traddy routes that ascend the entire walls of Bald Head. Bring gear and testicular fortitude. At least another 20min travel time from where you break trail.

Start: A blatantly obvious wide crack with 2 roofs on the first pitch. This is the first crack you will come to as you exit from dry creek bed approach. A small tree is directly in front of the start of the crack, and a rusty carabiner and old shoe mark the start of the climb.

1. 35m (18) Pleasant climbing up the wide crack, sling the occasional chockstone. Pull through roof on huge holds hand size crack to next roof, step left and up to comfy belay in sentry box.

2. 45m (18) Steeply out of sentry box on to wall, continue up wall via crack/flake to stance (steep for the grade). Short crack then corner to large sloping ledge, belay at large gum tree.

3. 40m (18) Rightward arching crack for a few metres to join leftward arching corner with large groove in the left wall. Up the corner then step left and continue up the groove to loose ledge. Traverse 5m left over big block to small stance directly under flake of pitch 4. Belay #3 and #3.5 friend in wall above ledge.

4. 35m (18) Pull on to wall using big ironstones. Vertical wall climbing using flake for gear for a few metres then the angle eases, ramble up to final headwall. If doing direct finish, belay from carrot bolts at base of wall, or if doing the original finish traverse right across wall to ledge and belay 10m before chimney.

5. 50m (16) Traverse into chimney/gully. Climb up until gully steepens then escape right along ledge to arete (belay). A few moves to top.

Vertical slab climbing over 150m of open air. Mostly protected by carrot bolts (take bolt plates) except for a few Cam placements to prevent run-outs. Rock is a bit brittle, currently graded 20, but will probably get harder as holds continue to break. With the last pitch of Weld Party 10 meters to right this may be more popular.....or less.

Start: On the ledge at the top of Pitch 4 of 'Serendipitous Cracks', go straight up the main wall following a line of carrot bolts, instead of traversing right and heading up the Chimney for pitch 5 of 'Serendipitous Cracks'.

The next two routes (Soft Touch & Weld Party) were approached as per standard Bald Head sectors walk in , not the gully described above however it is now possible to walk to base. Break trail right at lowest point of saddle , staying left of gully on vague trail, following cairns. (Description as for Serendipitous walls approach) Its base is the large ledge above first two pitches of serendipitous cracks.

Some hand lines take you across some scree and onwards to the base of the climbs.

Ground up attempt on crack system. Left facing corner 70m left of the start of Weld Party. P1. 30m. 20 Up the corner to semi hanging belay 3m below the roof. P2. 12m. 18M1 Up to roof, finger sized crack, traverse left, mostly aid till roof ends. Belay from gear under roof and single bolt slightly higher and left. Crack above is still unclimbed. Rap 40m to ground.

A fantastic mid grade multi, fully equipped with ringbolts and U's as a sport climb. 16 standard sport quickdraws plus whatever your usual multi harness requires. There is also potential to link pitches (if you could be bothered bringing that many draws) as it is a drag free wall. Wall gets sun in summer at 11:30 and earlier as winter sets in. Approach is now possible on foot as for Serendipitous Walls sector. It's the obvious route above you as you approach rap point for serendipitous wall, scramble up and left before the sketchy hill with grasstree. Can be combined with lower cliff for convenient multi-pitch. At top of climb walk up to higher terrace then right under small clifflet then back left up to Bald Head along vague trail to first saddle on left, where you had started serendipitous track.

1. 18, 30m

2. 18, 20m

3. 19, 30m

Starts several hundred metres right of 'Serendipitous Cracks', and about 100m left of the Hat Hill Creek waterfall. The climb is the small left facing corner crack in the middle of the steep yellow wall of sand, and is distinguished by two gnarled fig trees at the base of the corner.

1. 48m 18 Follow the horribly loose and chossy corner until you eventually reach a ledge liberally covered in large loose blocks and sand dunes. Calm down from the ascent then organise a retreat, using the dead, rotten tree, and a large slung flake that looks disturbingly loose.

Further pitches may be possible, but the territory looks steep and uncompromising, and the "rock" looks like it gets worse before getting better. Make sure you take double ropes if you intend to retreat (it's a full 50m rap).

Trad routes that climb the full height of the cliff + a couple of rap in climb out single pitch bolted easier things.

Unprotected in places, take some big gear. Start at the crack system near the right end of the lower wall, 60m left of the detached pillar straight underneath chimney (way right of Serendipity Cracks).

1. 50m (14) Steep orange corner below fault.

2. 50m (17) Climb the wide corner to the roof to crack and on to slab to ledge.

3. 45m (19) Shallow, white chimney for a couple of moments, then right onto wall to ledge past carrot. Up bulges then crack through overhang and corner to ledge.

4. 25m (16) Corner and right to carrot on ledge. Scrabby crack on left and up to ledge.

5. 30m (16) Crack to belay on right.

100 meters west of Beche de Merle is a 90 meter pillar with a steep crack and chimney line on its left hand side. Start from high terrace, small cairn marks the start. Great climbing if you enjoy adventurous trad. Climb carefully - there is some soft rock, but protection is good where you need it. Pitches 5, 6 & 7 have bolts with fixed hangers.

Suggested rack: 1 set aliens or similar tiny cams, black diamond 2 x 0.3 to 1, 3 x 2 to 4, 1 x 5, 1 set of wires, 1 x red offset wire for pitch 5, lots of long slings.

P1, 15 meters, (20) Start at rightwards arching flake which is 1.5m right of a corner and 10m left of the fall line of the main crack system. Climb arching flake to ledge, walk right to belay. A #6 cam is handy to protect the first two meters, but you're not likely to place it anywhere else on the route.

P2, 30 meters, (20) Twin cracks to small overlap, step right, crack steepens, jamb and stem for 8m, crack widens, be careful of the big block, wide crack up to roof, move left to semi-hanging belay on cams (4, 5 & 0.5) in horizontal breaks.

P3, 30 meters, (17) Enjoyable wall and chimney, protected by spaced cams in horizontal breaks. Comfortable belay stance, large cams at shoulder height also a fixed 5m thread (rap anchor) at foot level.

P4, 40 meters, (18) Chimney, good climbing, some soft rock, protection via cams in horizontal breaks. When you reach the shale, move into the chimney, over large boulders and up to very top of the pillar on shale. Belay off 2 rings above you on the headwall.

P5, 30 meters, (21) Place gear and then commit to a big step into the thin corner for 8 metres, bomber small gear and crucial red offset. At the roof, step left to a bolt, then commit to a move on the arete and get prepared for a bowl quivering exposed traverse left for 5 more bolts to belay on edge of grey wall. 2 rings for belay.

P6, 30 meters, (21) Diagonally right across grey wall to shallow left facing corner, small cams, further right to bolt then up and right again to hanging arête, up past 4 bolts to ledge. Belay on 2 fixed hangers.

P7, 25 meters, (21) Straight up the orange and grey vertical wall protected by cams in horizontals and wires in unique slots and 3 bolts. Pumpy but lots of rests. Easy top out then walk up the slope 10m to 2 rings at your feet.

Can be accessed by abseil from the top of the wall. Belay on 2 rings. Vertical wall with amazingly solid small hold and lots of big holds. Straight up wall, fixed hangers plus horizontal break at 3/4 height for bomber 0.75 and 1 cam. Walk up loose slope 10m to 2 rings for belay.

Fantastic location, position and climbing on lovely orange rock. Shares 2 ring belay with TWR1. Traverse right staying low on the Bolts to get to the arete and big exposure. Bolts are where you need them, but if your intimidated by a bit of exposure a couple of cams, 1 and 2 will keep things sane. Great route and has belay rings at the top of the wall at cliff edge.

A really nice bushwalk , maybe bring a rope and alot of quickdraws too.

The left of the two with three short pitches.

1. 12m (23) Follow bolts up to belay ledge.

2. 20m (22) Good climbing up past numerous bolts.

3. 15m (21) Hardish moves and hidden bolt off the belay, then up to lower-off. Lower back to 2nd belay and rap 30m to ground.

The right climb.

1. 12m (23) Stick clip first bolt to avoid choss-induced fear then head right and up to belay ledge.

2. 20m (24) Up left of belay and up blunt arete to belay.

3. 15m (21) Up and slightly left to lower-off. Lower off to 2nd belay then rap 30+m to ground.