Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Dim 2 Juin 2019 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - avec Justin Robinson | 45m, 5 | ★ Bon | ||||
19 | ★★★ Joe Blake - avec Justin Robinson | 60m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
19 | ★★ El Dorado - avec Justin Robinson | 35m | ★ Bon | ||||
Lun 27 Mai 2019 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Wade's World | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Sleepwalking | 33m, 9 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Very good. Wasp nest still visible but not active. Will be back with more time for the routes on this wall. Worth the walk.
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19 | ★★ A Walk Across the Rooftops | 30m, 6 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Really nice wall and route. Pumpy. Area deserves more attention.
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Dim 26 Mai 2019 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar - avec Ken | 80m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Good to finally get on this with ken. The plan was for me to do the crux pitch however ken just kept on motoring nice work!
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Dim 19 Mai 2019 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
21 | ★★ Dude where's my cam? | 45m, 4 | |||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | |||||
Mer 15 Mai 2019 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Thor Head | |||||||
24 |
★★ Thorever
- avec
Heath Black
| 110m, 50 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Super good shorter multi, and with all the pitches being a little squishy at the grade, one that should really see a lot more action than it does. The first pitch is the money with sustained and continuously interesting climbing on excellent rock with no real hard moves. The second pitch is also excellent, with really funky stemming to great pumping up a steep feature. The chain hanging off the anchors on this pitch is nonsense though. I pulled on it following the information from the guide book and then felt a bit robbed upon clipping the anchors and seeing an abundance of good little edges that the chain was sitting on top of and obscuring. The moves seem to go free at a fairly straightforward 22 or 23 (Neil didn't use the chain) and make for a nice finale to the pitch, but in its current state it can be quite difficult to work around the chain. Following this, pitch three is great with a few exposed and powerful moves and pitch four is a totally inoffensive wander up a corner.
All up a great afternoon! |
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Ven 26 Avr 2019 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
21 22 | ★★★ Aladinsane | 32m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Really lovely! Well worth the effort to get out there. Probably a 21.
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Sam 6 Avr 2019 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Thor Head | |||||||
25 | ★★ Horse Meat Disco - avec Heath Black | 55m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Nearly a classic. Super cool climbing with some outrageous jumps for the vertically challenged. One lead attempt, then FA belay, then i almost did it clean on second but just had one sit halfway through the crux. Very endurancy and thus quite hard to grade. Totally worthwhile.
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Sam 23 Mars 2019 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Jezebel - avec Blake Hawkins | 90m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
took a massive 15 meter whipper. decided to call it a day.
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Dim 27 Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - avec zachary vertrees | 45m, 5 | ★ Bon | ||||
Good fun excursion.Loses star for excess bolting at top ... sorry
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19 | ★★★ Joe Blake - avec zachary vertrees | 60m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Seconded first pitch, firsted second pitch ...
Rapped from tree to rings . Then to ground with a 70...
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Sam 26 Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Thor Head | |||||||
24 | ★★★ I Hurt it on the Grapevine - avec Zac | 50m, 18 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
I think we did the direct start, which may be a tad harder than 24 and a bit reachy... Pulledbthrough s few hard bits down low but climbed the rest fairly well albeit a bit pumped ...
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Jeu 24 Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
21 22 | ★★★ Sharp Shooter | 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Bugger ... so close and yet so far... but I guess a bit of ClifBar, drink and smoke beforehand may not have been best before an onsight..
Lacking double Red and Green didn't help either ... nor did hanging around to try and retrieve a tipped-out medium offset, shenanigans around the tree and trying to conserve stuff for the top... left me a bit ragged heading up the v-Chimney at the top which didn't treat my stomach or dodgy knee too well... Was really hoping the #2 would just slit right in at the lip... but it didn't really Totem would have been fine, anyway blacked it back in the start of roof. Retrieved long sling from below and then finally went to look round the lip but nah, no gear options to suit my fatiguing condition and hip/knee tweakage that wasn't the best ... Lowered off the 2 in the roof, retrieving a bunch of gear, climbed back up and aided on to above roof then pulled over the top ... Really should have onsighted it ... |
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21 | ★★ Dude where's my cam? - avec zachary vertrees | 45m, 4 | ★ Bon | ||||
Maybe soft at 21 ... Shuffling a #4 up the wide part works well if you only have 1 with you ... Roof crack can be avoided by angling right to arête and good gear at end of the roof ...
Only 1 tricky move (particularly with a dodgy right knee) on top arête and could have had less bolts up there so loses a star for that
Prob only 35 m as yet again we simul-rapped on a 70m to get down. |
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20 | ★★★ True dreams - avec zachary vertrees | 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Wasted a bit of energy getting bogged down at the start but managed to sort it in the end and settled down into the climbing without having any real worries about gear ..
Stuck it out to the end for the OS...
Prob only 35 m as yet again we simul-rapped on a 70m to get down. |
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19 | ★★ El Dorado - avec zachary vertrees | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Prob best as 1 pitch which is how we did it. Prob only 35m as we simul-rapped back down easily on a 70m rope.
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Ven 7 Déc 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Telstar
- avec
Ninja
1
19
85m
2
3
| 85m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan - avec Ninja | 32m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Mar 27 Nov. 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Telstar
1
19
85m
2
3
4
| 85m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
I'm going to break with all tradition here and say this route is massively overrated. The first pitch is beyond mank. The roof is in a good position, but the rock is still mank. I was very happy to have a 6 camalot with me, it's in dirty but at least solid rock. There are are a few nice moves on good rock in the 3rd pitch, then it becomes a ramble ending in a manky slab. Go do Basilisk DF if you want the bombay chimney through roof experience on good rock and do Kaladan if you want to climb a quality route at Ikara.
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Dim 11 Nov. 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Aladinsane | 32m | |||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | |||||
Dim 4 Nov. 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Telstar - avec alex bog | 80m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Dim 4 Nov. 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Great warmup but start is always a bit tricky. Abseiled off the tree.
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Sam 3 Nov. 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Sharp Shooter | 40m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Tried for the onsight, but ended up resting at the first roof, after getting my hand stuck in a solid jam. Definitely didn't bring enough hand size cams and ran out before the second roof and so built an anchor and lowered off. Ended up top-roping the climb clean after to retrieve the gear. Super climb and loved it, although the chimney section could be a bit intimidating with little gear on lead.
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Lun 22 Oct. 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan - avec Jason Bilsborow | 32m | |||||
What a great climb some of the best jams in the Mtns! bomber gear the whole way with a sting in the tall to finish. three rests defiantly coming back to lead it.
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17 17 R | Waltzing Matilda - avec Jason Bilsborow | 60m | |||||
a Morning adventure with quality chimney to finish. When was this last climbed btw???
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Dim 16 Sept 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
18 | ★★ Reincarnation - avec Ben Sanford | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Genuinely one of the best cracks at the grade in the Bluies (though probably a fairly substantial sand bag) with its classicness being only slightly marred by some less than excellent rock. Great thoughtful climbing up a proud line to the rad and improbable 5m leftwards traverse to get to the Jezebel belay. Whilst I agree that it would be much more straightforward and easy for there to be a lower off just below the shale choss, the traverse is pretty wild and certainly rounds off the route's full value feel! The horizontal break you climb across takes #4 camalots to start and then #3s and #2s.
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19 | ★★★ Telstar - avec Ben Sanford | 80m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Seriously sick rock climb and a beast that should be on everyone's tick list! Pretty tempted to give this mega classic just for how ridiculously wild that second pitch is but the rest of the climbing is a bit average. Pitch one is a pretty straightforward chossy ramble that has a couple of heady moments, pitch two is one of the craziest and most intimidating bits of rock ive climbed! Just so so out there. Pitch three starts off as a pretty rad ring lock corner thing but turns into a rambley hand crack (it's still nice, just not classic) and then you finish up an average grey slab. I'm fairly sure we rapped off Splattergram but it was getting dark so it was hard to tell where exactly we were. We walked a fair way right (facing towards the cliff edge) until we first spied two carrots and then a bit further on two nice ring bolts with a length of black rope connecting them to an anchor over the cliff. From here it was approx. 30m free hanging down to a ledge with a collection of bolts from various vintages (but with two nice rings) and from here it was probably about 50m to the ground. Walking along the cliff edge it probably took us less than 10 minutes to find the rap anchor. An absolutely full value adventure!!
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Sam 15 Sept 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
17 |
★ Rambling Man
- avec
Will Vidler, Ben Sanford
2
grimpé en tête par
Harry Kadi
| 40m | ★ Bon | ||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - avec Will Vidler, Ben Sanford | 45m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Up crack to slings at tree, pretty fun but not the best of the crag
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17 |
★ Rambling Man
- avec
Harry Kadi, Ben Sanford
2
grimpé en tête par
Harry Kadi
| 40m | ★ Bon | ||||
Sucked in thinking this was an FA but had a feeling it was too good to be true. Nice but sharp hand crack on pitch one with some suboptimal rock up the top and then short ramp and more sharp hand crack on pitch two. Didn't take heaps of gear so I built a belay on stacked wires which was amusing.
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19 |
★★ El Dorado (El Dorado P1)
- avec
Ben Sanford, Harry Kadi
| 25m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Just the first pitch then lowered off the tree. Super high quality finger crack, though probably soft at the grade. Definitely worthwhile!!
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17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - avec Ben Sanford, Harry Kadi | 45m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Great hand crack to slings on tree, the continuation didn't look super.
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19 |
★★ El Dorado (El Dorado P1)
- avec
Will Vidler, Ben Sanford
1
19
45m
| 45m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
High quality jamming and lay backing up a nice line! Really fun!
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Sam 1 Sept 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar - avec Blake Hawkins | 80m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Dim 12 Août 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Aladinsane - avec Emil Mandyczewsky | 32m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Now I've done the ACTUAL Aladinsane (not the faux-Aladinsane). Great, varied climbing with oodles of gear, and only a single patch of crusty rock. No harder than 21, but worthy of its stars. Quite a few sections would be easy to botch, I think.
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Sam 11 Août 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar - avec Lucy Rose | 80m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
So good, been a few years since I first did this, was definitely different being on the pointy end through the chimney/roof amazing!
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20 | ★★★ Caladan - avec Lucy Rose | 32m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Good to clean this one up, great climb and nice way to finish off the day.
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22 | ★★★ Aladinsane - avec grace | 32m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
awesome climb with bomber gear pretty much the whole way. has a bit of a sting in the tail!
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20 | ★★★ Caladan - avec grace | 32m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
pretty average first half, but the second half is some of the nicest crack climbing i've done in the blue mountains. feels kinda soft for 20, but super enjoyable!
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Dim 22 Juil 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar - avec Jemma Herbert | 80m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
First pitch has some spicy bits and lots of choss. 2nd pitch is insane! Hard start then easy but intimidating chimneying. 3rd pitch is a 2 move wonder off the belay then easy fun jams to easy ramble at the top. By the time we reached the top the sun had set and we spent probs around 1h looking for the rap station. Epic day!
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20 | ★★★ Caladan - avec Jemma Herbert, Nikki Sentinella | 32m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
amazing climb. has it all! feels soft for the grade?
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Dim 15 Juil 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Jezebel - avec Heath Black | 100m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Almost a mega classic. Absolutely stunning climbing and rock, and -in my opinion- bloody nails at the grade. The 1st pitch is actually really good.
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18 | ★★ Reincarnation - avec Heath Black | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Clean repeat, this time Seconding Neil. Still great. Seriously deserves an onslaught of additional traffic.
The epiphany that this ISN'T Aladinsane (read my last ascent of this route on TheCrag) has caused me to question my life choices, where I'm going in my future, and what I really want to achieve. What is the meaning of the life, and the nature of the universe? Does our inability to measure self-awareness in other species actually preclude the possibility that it exists, and if not, do we need to change our perspective of our uniqueness on this planet. If the defining characteristic of self-awareness is the capacity for self-doubt, which can only be instantiated through the existence of other people (to whom we ascribe a value of their opinion great enough that we entertain the possibility that their perception is right, and ours is wrong) mean that the very notion of "self awareness" is a physical impossibility without a society, and thus was Sartre right when he proclaimed "hell is other people"? |
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Sam 14 Juil 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
24 |
★★ The Squealing
| 87m, 15 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Quite an adventurous climb, worth a crack., starts up vegetated corner (cams) before first carrot, and a dusty rail traverse over to the arete. Some great arete moves on this long pitch! One of which I could not do , off the midway ledge. Some interesting route finding, off the ledges two times I traversed in from the far left. Mostly carrots but bring a single rack of cams to 3 and nuts.
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22 | ★★★ Aladinsane - avec david dearnly | 32m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Really nice finger crack.
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20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Repeat for warmup, just a stellar hand crack and also good fists low down, don’t miss it
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22 | ★★★ Jezebel - avec david dearnly | 100m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
WOW - what an incredible route. Probably the best adventure trad climb I have been on in the Blue Mtns. You really have no idea what to expect on this one, can’t see much of that evil diagonal gash from the ground. Highly recommended to all trad frothers and gym climbers
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Dim 24 Juin 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
23 22 | ★★★ Blast Off | 80m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Radical crack. First shot I fell out of the offwidth pod trying to hand stack it. Second go managed to lay back into it. Fell off the steep ringlocks above, phwoar - she’s feisty!!
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19 | ★★★ Telstar | 80m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Fantastic trad fun! We bootied a 3 piece anchor with cordalette at the mid-belay including .4 cam - thanks y’all. When abseiling off the u-bolts at the top to the left, careful how you rig the rope. Our rope got stuck on the ironstone edge, had to prussic out. Blast off rap line was easier going.
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Sam 16 Juin 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan - avec Tim M-S | 32m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Classic crack climbing. The crack was pretty thin at the top. Not great for finger locking if you’ve just smashed your fingers with a sledgehammer like Tim had more chain and new bolts would be ideal for the anchor o back up the single bolt chain that’s there.
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18 | ★★ Sponsored by the State - avec Tim M-S | 110m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Fun climb. A little run out in places. If it were cleaner without all the dead bushes and lichen, it’d be 3 star. There is a massive dead banksia that’s fallen down and hanging at the top of the second pitch. We would’ve cut it loose had our gear not been underneath. The next party up should leave their gear to the right of the start so that they can cut it loose. Second pitch roof was four star-super fun.
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Mar 22 Mai 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 | ★★ El Dorado - avec Max | 35m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
My first finger crack.
Outstanding quality! gear is great the whole way. Fingers then hands then fist!!!!!
we rapped off the slung tree to the left with 2 x 50m |
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17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - avec Max | 45m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
seconded Max as a warmup. First half is great but the second isn't too crash hot.
can lower off from the slung tree 20m up or contuine ups and rap off the slung tree with two 50m.
Mallion Replaced 22nd of May |
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19 | ★★ El Dorado - avec Match | 45m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
A really nice and varied climb! Lots of scope to try different types of jams. Watch the small footholds. I blew 2 footholds on this climb. One caused me to take a fall (as a second).
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17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - avec Match | 45m, 5 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
A very nice warm up! I wouldn't bother topping out, the bottom is the best part. The traverse is nice but from there up it's a pretty average grade 12 on carrots
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Dim 20 Mai 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Wade's World | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Sleepwalking | 33m, 9 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Fun slightly overhanging edge pulling. A bolt or two less would increase the flow. Small but active wasps nest in the hole makes for some judicious circumvention.
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19 | ★★ A Walk Across the Rooftops | 30m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Strong line. Pretty steep with long pulls and big flat edges, Pumper.
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18 21 | From the Flagstones | 28m, 6 | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Is this edgy and dull direct?. Fun through the bulge. Easy but sparsely protected finish.
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22 | ★★ The Son and Heir | 33m, 8 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
E grade slab that's more engaging than it looks. Burly headwall that keeps on givin'. Deserved 3 stars.
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Dim 20 Mai 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar | 80m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Led all pitches today with Cylvie. Dave was climbing with Mr Ikara himself, Keith Bell. I can't believe I led pitch 2 14 years ago. Had forgotten the choss elements, but still a spectacular route. I am sure I jammed a lot better this time. Rapped down splatter gram , nice new u bolts, thanks to whoever put them in.
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Sam 19 Mai 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Joe Blake (Joe Blake P1)
1
19
35
| 35m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - avec Steve Ayling | 45m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Ven 18 Mai 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Repeat. Patagonia training including snow and hail.
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Mer 16 Mai 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
18 | FA ★ Octonauts | 33m | ★ Bon | ||||
Bold lead by dave on upper part.Large gear ie big bro needed. The seconder has a nicer time climbing the arête.
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Ven 11 Mai 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Aladinsane | 32m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
I should climb trad more often, probably my 3rd route in 2 years. Awesome but nice and soft.
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22 | ★★★ Aladinsane - avec Jason McCarthy | 32m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Really rad thin crack but definitely quite easy for the grade. It only really has one move on it and in typical trad fashion i tried to rest in the middle of this singular move and thus got a bit bogged down and stressed. I then remembered that I know how to rock climb however and all was right with the world as I cruised to the top. A fair bit of thin gear on this one but there are opportunities to place bigger stuff too. Enjoy it for sure!!
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20 | ★★★ Caladan - avec Jason McCarthy | 32m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Super classic varied route!! Climbed in absolute arctic conditions. Every time I would look up to place gear or progress onwards, the horizontally falling snow would attack my face and attempt to thwart my every move. This definitely added a rather griping element to the climb, one that would have been present even if it was just windy and not actually a localised snow storm. Patagonia here I come!!!
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Jeu 10 Mai 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Victoria Falls Left Side Upper | |||||||
19 | ★ Inter-continental Breakfast Missile | 20m, 10 | |||||
21 | ★★ Spasmo's on Acid | 24m, 9 | |||||
23 | ★★ Spasmo's on Acid Direct | 30m | |||||
21 | ★★ Optimum Beer Level | 30m | |||||
Sam 14 Avr 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar - avec Peter Webster | 80m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Pitch 1: Seconded clean.
Pitch 2: Getting up into the cave ledge is impossible for someone my size, pulled on gear to wedge myself in! Amazing lead by Pete to run it out will phenomenal exposure!
Pitch 3: I still can't crack climb, pulled on gear to get up the crack.
Fantastic day out, gale force winds caused the tag rope to get well and truly wrapped around a tree down low, but we managed to rap back down using a 70m rope (with stretch) |
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Dim 21 Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Joe Blake | 60m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Crack is not my jam but this was fun. Doesn’t look great from start but the line above is sick. Wear crack gloves!
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17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | ★ Bon | ||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams | 40m | ★ Bon | ||||
Sam 20 Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan - avec Elias | 32m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan - avec Yulid Shorrock, Pedro | 32m | |||||
2 laps of this beauty. One time following up Pedro, one time Yulid
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Jeu 11 Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan - avec Justin | 32m | |||||
Brilliant crack! Make sure you'll bring a few cams (handcrack -> #3 comes in handy). Awesome.
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19 | ★★★ Telstar - avec Justin | 80m | |||||
wicked! the chimney is insane. hard to get into it. Short but really good finger crack in p3. Not the best rock quality (a bit sandy in parts), but reasonable. If you're after an excellent adventure-climb, do this one!
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Sam 30 Déc 2017 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Victoria Falls Left Side Upper | |||||||
19 | ★ Inter-continental Breakfast Missile - avec Ramon Francis | 20m, 10 | ★ Bon | ||||
21 | ★★ Optimum Beer Level - avec Ramon Francis | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Dim 1 Oct. 2017 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar | 80m | |||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | |||||
Lun 18 Sept 2017 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar - avec Lisa Vitaris | 80m | |||||
I last came here in the late 80s with Greg Child, Lincoln Hall and one other person - sorry forget who, and vaguely recall walking off. Tried to follow the description in the guide interpreting 'walk down gully at left end of cliff' as meaning the western side. Eventually found no gully so rapped off and hobbled back along the base of the cliff. I strongly suggest you locate the top of one of the other routes that has bolted anchors and rap off!!
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Dim 17 Sept 2017 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar - avec Tim M-S | 80m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Dim 10 Sept 2017 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Aladinsane | 32m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Stunning line up a beautiful clean crack with a variety of moves both in and out of the crack. Super easy for 22 though.
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22 | ★★★ Blast Off - avec Paul Frothy Thomson | 80m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Now this was mega! Led the first 19 pitch then seconded the next long pitch to the tree belay clean. What a pleasure!! A nice boulder sequence to gain the crack where the face holds end and the ring locks and finger jams begin! This climb has everything, a difficult offwidth, terrible feet, beautiful jams and locks and a steady pump that keeps you on your toes. Proud to second clean
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20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
A masterclass on jamming and I'll definitely be back. Beautiful varied climbing with a sting in the tail at the finish. Blew the insight on literally the last move. Learnt a lot!
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Dim 10 Sept 2017 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 | ★★ El Dorado - avec Abi Prakash, fifithekiki | 35m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Felix linked it in one 45m pitch. Both the finger crack and the chimney were super fun!
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Sam 9 Sept 2017 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
18 | ★★ Reincarnation - avec Grechy | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
2018 Update - Back when I climbed this in 2017, I thought this was Aladinsane. I blame Ben Jenga (who also thought this was Aladinsane when he climbed it back in 2010 with me in the posse as a nub trad climber), as I just went straight for the route he'd climbed that day. So, yeah, I feel pretty dumb.)
Original 2017 comments: "Spectacular climbing up a soaring line with oodles of bombproof gear [...] Mostly good rock, varied and continuously engaging. The crack is beautifully clean. Finishing up at the Jezebel belay is the correct way to finish this climb, just traverse left for miles on an obvious clean #3 cam break. |
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22 | ★★★ Blast Off - avec Grechy | 80m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Hard! P1 - 2nd Clean (Pleasant ringlock crack at about gr 19); P2 - Pink Point. P2 felt like it might be hard 22 for the true red point (with a few key footers marked, the moss cleaned out of the crucial jams and a bit of beta for efficiency), but for the Onsight I was cranking gr24. I came REALLY close, but my onsight attempt finally ended going for a stonker jam one move below the horizontal that ends the hard climbing, when I missed the jam I was aiming for (caused by my feet sketching as I struggled to find footers). Had a big whip onto a 0.5 cam which was exciting. 2nd shot was challenging, but solid, and never in any real doubt. A tough, varied finger/ring-lock crack with a boulder problem start, a bit of exciting wide in the middle, a steep section of locking with negligible feet, and a sporty finish. The crack is a bit mossy (but not too bad) and vegetated up high. This route is very chalk-sight-able while my ticks are on the key footers and the cleaned jams, so get on it before it rains!
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20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Brilliant. Not a true flash (this was my 2nd ever crack climb back in 2010!), but I'm claiming the Alzheimer's on this one. Great gear, nice clean crack, continuously good rock, sustained but no stopper moves (though the finale appears a lot tougher than it actually is). Just a bloody great crack, and one I'm psyched to have come back to now that I know what a jam is.
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Sam 9 Sept 2017 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Sharp Shooter (The Three Amigos) - avec fifithekiki | 40m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Super fun. Two exciting roofs. The first is easier than the second, which involves some delicate chimneying on grotty gear til you get established under the roof, its thin jams and a low lip make it awkward to pull around. But once you escape the sweat dungeon you're rewarded with a superb splitter to the top. Must do!!!
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20 | ★★★ True dreams - avec Abi Prakash, fifithekiki | 40m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
That was awesome!! Bit stiff off the deck but not too bad, just beautiful hands but still varied climbing. Into the chimney. And another cruxy undercut on good jams. One pitch to the top then abseiled off slung tree few metres left
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Sam 22 Juil 2017 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Aladinsane | 32m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Repeat.
I'd climb this thing so many times. Very enjoyable technical crack climbing. Good gear the whole way if you can stop to place it!
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