Noeuds dans Pole 28

Nice crag with one cliff in the sun all day and the other getting afternoon sun.

For the so-called "lower Pole 28 area" - which is actually the Flying Fox Area, climbed since 1970 - rap off the power-pole atop the cliff, just downhill from the upper Pole 28 left-side climbs (Alpha Male etc). Or use the Flying Fox Area descent.

According to mapping this area is located on private property owned by the Hydro Majestic Hotel. However it is also the location of high voltage powerlines and access is via a dirt road built to access these lines. Please respect the land.

Theses routes are located on the lower cliff.

Stunning steep face climbing, but rather committing.

Starts on the cliffline directly below where the access track to pole 28 splits (to either the left, or right side). Walk 30m downhill to the obvious rocky buttress.

Find the rap anchors on the rock buttress, rap down 5m to the belay at the top of the pitch. Re-direct the rap rope, and abseil down the "groove" in the direction of Reservoir Dogs/The Block, straight down the gray slab on the LEFT side of the arete (looking out), 30m to the belay on the triangular ledge.

Climb up from the ledge, move left along the break and out through the roof. Clip the bolt past the lip of the roof, and commit to the intimidating crux, with sustained hard moves throughout the runout straight up the wall (avoid straying off right on moss and friable rock) until the next bolt. Up vague seam on good rock (avoid moss out right) to rest. Dyno off ledge, and straight up the guts of the turret-headwall on spaced bolts, with sustained thin and technical climbing all the way to the belay.

Bring up Second, then scramble back up the initial 5m rap (consider roping up, or backing-up the scramble off the abseil rope).

If you are unable to complete the pitch, either Jumaar up the abseil rope, or you can rap again (35m) from the belay on the ledge to the ground, and find the exit gully by following the cliffline around to the left (looking out) as for the Three Brothers area.

These routes are on the lower cliff line. Rap in from anchors near the power pole below the upper cliff line.

The following route is located at Pole 28 LOWER CLIFF (in the huge cave/overhang). See intro to area for directions.

Mixed Route: 4 bolts plus med-large cams (double #2; 3, 4 Camalot). Lower-off.

In the huge cave/overhang near the drainage/notch directly below Upper Pole 28. Start on the left where the horizontal splitter leaves a ledge.

With first piece placed, launch into a pumpy no- footer L-R hand traverse (no. 3 then no. 4 Camalot) before passing 3 bolts where the crack widens, then a 4th bolt heading straight up the steep wall on crimps to horizontal break (no. 2 Camalot ideal but a no. 1 or 3 would work) and lower-off anchors just left of arête.

On the LOWER cliff. A few hundred metres along the cliff (north-east) walking from Crankenfurten (see Three Brothers area) and about 50m short of Bewilderbeast. Up to double rings, then continue as for FatF.

On LOWER cliff. Starts between the small double arete, 3m left of Copperhead on Ice. Line of ringbolts to power-pole at cliff edge of upper Pole 28 area.

The next 5 routes are on the right side of the descent stairs (facing out)

Start on left of main wall at slight corner. Follow left line of rings to lower-offs.

Start as for JaLL until second ring then head slightly right and follow rings to lower-offs.

Great climbing with shade in the morning and sun in the afternoon. Lots of bolts and plenty of stylish moves. Hard for the grade!

start 5m right of PtP. Scramble up to ledge, clip ring in roof then straight up to lower-offs.

Steep problem tending right then up. Mostly 19-21 moves with a single 23 sequence near the beginning. Very stylish climbing.

The next routes are on the left side of the descent stairs (facing out)

Left most line

Direct between the scoops

On the left side of the crag coming down the stairs, third route along. Nice rock in the sun all day, and out of the wind! Good bit of winter rock!

Up AM, then continue directly up the arete.

First 2 bolts on BM then head left passing another bolt to gain arete and finish as per LoFi.

Fourth climb along the left wall, a few metres past the blunt arete and Alpha Male.

Pleasant corner crack with overhanging crux, then easy corner and equalised small trees belay. Good protection throughout, mostly wires and a few cams. Sheltered from westerly wind and sun.

Arete to shared lower off with SM

Cool orange streak

Right of SM

Straight up avoiding the bolts of Surprisingly Sweet. Great gear, tree belay.

An easy corner on which to practise trad. Stem or thrutch up to tree belay.

Burly overhanging roof crack with awkward exit followed by easy corner and tree belay. Make sure the cams stick, and add an extra grade for the crack exit.

Seam crack through roof. Originally attempted on gear by Damian Taylor and sundry.Chris Coghill, added some bolts when his gear started falling out. Rohan took offense, chopped the bolts and climbed this natural masterpiece And the world was a more ethical and morally brighter place. Amen.

Hard start and little wall then right on jugs through the roof.

Start: Middle of big cave.

Up the easy start to lip of cave. Traverse the lip on jugs, and then pull onto easy orange head wall using dippy crimps.

Start: 20m R of FF just before next cave

First 5 bolts of HW then directly up to tricky mantle and slab finish

Up the steep crack, then move right to lip and up.

Hard start to overhung arete - pull around this onto bright orange headwall.

Orange face on left side of shale cave, about 20m right of previous route. Right trending line to lip of small roof, hard move above this then flake to finish.

Rambly corner crack, then trend left up grey juggy wall to tree belay.

Start: 2m right of TNSOOS Second Year.

Shallow corner crack topped by block, then bash up gully to right avoiding ants. Tree belay.

Hard for the grade. Starts in obvious orange corner and follows rings around roof at mid height.

The dead-horizontal roof crack you can't miss walking to the far side of the crag, but looks like everyone did?

Release your inner crack-monkee and blast into pockets, upside-down fingerlocks and 360 cut-loose trickery. Finish at hands-free ledge above and backjump.

Take a single rack to 3 with doubles in 1 and 2 and triples in 0.4.

Named after my kinship, the three brothers. Really nice climbing on good features, with just a few spicy moves. Stick-clip first bolt for sweet boulder moves through undercut start on good face holds, then pleasant wall climbing on funky features to a thin finish over the bulge. Start: Up the centre of a narrow south-facing wall with an undercut start and a corner to the right. FA: Tom Hepner, Hannah Hepner, Tom ‘T-bor’ Thomson - 2010-00-00

As for BTAN to 2nd RB. Traverse L to 2nd RB of BK and up

Start right of Brothers K at crack.

2m right of corner. Up the techo red wall.

Line of bolts up a steep orange nose.