Noeuds dans Mount York

NOTE: As of January 2021, all areas of Mount York (including camping) are now open!

A diverse area with a hearty mix of routes, styles, and aspects to escape the weather. Free camping!

NOTE: As of January 2021, all areas of Mount York (including camping) are now open!

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Once the hardest route at the crag.

Now with RBs

Start on the arête right of Prehn's Pass gully (the left end of the wall). A great traverse with good gear and much pumpedness! Up to the horizontal, then venture out along the break to the cave on the far side of the wall. Take a double rack of cams. Awkward rap off rings in cave.

Flake and arete

Start as for Jargon. Up hard wall to cavey ledge. Rap.

NOTE: As of January 2021, all areas of Mount York (including camping) are now open!

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Start: On the right side of the gully coming down. Hideous looking carrots.

Start: Right side of the gully.

Left side of the gully coming down.

Area with a few routes heavily used by commercial operators. Various ring and rung anchors in seating area on top a short distance left from the descent track.

Start: Left of arête, marked. Straight up past very little protection.

Cruxy undercut start 5m L of the crack. A #5 camalot will help up high but its still not the safest lead.

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Has seen a few fatalities, and not a great choice if its at your limit because you have to fiddle to get gear in the middle of the hardest climbing to protect a runout. A #5 camalot will help up high. Belay off UBs near the tree roots and on the boulder, not off the tree.

Up the crack as for Crackle then veer R under the roof. Dangerously underprotected through the middle section. A #5 camalot helps up high.

NOTE: As of January 2021, all areas of Mount York (including camping) are now open!

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Vegetated corner crack

Start: Marked.

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Undercut start through steep stuff around the left side of the Aunty Jack wall. Carrots (first with fixed hanger) and small wires.

Traverse out to arete from start of Aunty Jack.

Traverse left as for start of aunty jack. Continue further left to line of carrots and up. Avoid going to the arete to keep the grade.

Classic. Take a full rack with heaps of wires. Lower-offs were added, then chopped, and are still absent as at Jan 2023.

Traverse left past single carrot to crack/flake. Climb directly up along the yellow rock to top. Belay in back of cave in pockets or top out and off trees.

Start as for Aunty Jack then straight up past bolts (take brackets) & gear. Has a good independent finish despite. Much more sustained than Aunty Jack. At top, belay off cams in pockets in small cave on the left - or sling very far away burnt dead trees (if you dare).

Start as for RotTCG, left and up. 3 rings and gear.

Ringbolts just left of corner to lower-off's. Hard start, then steady going.

Cliff splitter!! Gear up accordingly.

Traverse left from Peppercorner to Red Robin and then up the arete

Straight up the middle of the wall. Take some cams. No gear before first bolt. Original bash-ins. Bolt anchor on top of block.

Pleasant arete. Most people start 1m R of the arête for a few metres, then move left. The gear is in some opinions "good, but spaced", but in others' opinions this route is quite dangerous to half height particularly now that the wire slots are getting worn thanks to the soft rock. Take a rack including a 4 Friend, and a bolt plate in case Rattler's top carrot looks tempting.

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Straightens out of the middle of Rattler.

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Middle of buttress. Dirty slab (trad) then short steeper wall (2 bolts).

4m left of Lishenbak. One old bolt above sandy cave up high.

Get here early for this one.

NOTE: As of January 2021, all areas of Mount York (including camping) are now open!

Great climbing the whole way but barely adequate trad gear in the first half.

Start: Start 1m R of Lishenback.

Independent face just left of Birds Nest. A bit of trad down low and several bolts up high (carrots and hangers).

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

The attractive flakeline. Good...but not much gear where you need it.

Start 1.5m R of 'Birds Nest'. Thin face past about 5 stainless carrot bolts plus a cam, to loweroffs. The thin crux is unfortunately much harder than the rest of the route. Rebolted 2012.

This is one of the best routes in this section of wall. Sustained, interesting climbing, well protected on carrots and a couple of trad pieces to lower-offs. Easier than CCC.

Start 4m Right of 'Sparrow'. Take 4 bolt brackets and medium cams.

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Chimney.

Start: This and the next 4 routes are on the right side of the gully heading down.

Thin face climbing on very slight overhanging wall to break then up. No bridging on the other route. Start is the crux. 5 RBs to anchors. Bold "old skool 80's" climbing.

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

NOTE: As of January 2021, all areas of Mount York (including camping) are now open!

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Brackets to lower offs

NOTE: As of January 2021, all areas of Mount York (including camping) are now open!

Start: This and the next few routes start from the track on the left side of the gully coming down.

Echo Gully access works are complete. Stairway is open, providing access from Coxs Rd to the base of the crag.

Echo Gully access works are complete. Stairway is open, providing access from Coxs Rd to the base of the crag.

Start marked

Start marked

Thin face climbing, with a runout between 3rd and 4th bolts.

Echo Gully access works are complete. Stairway is open, providing access from Coxs Rd to the base of the crag.

Echo Gully access works are complete. Stairway is open, providing access from Coxs Rd to the base of the crag.

A pleasant slab with a thin but well-protected crux. Start 5m left of The Obituary, immediately right of the access restriction fence.

The blunt arete at the base of the gully.

NOTE: As of January 2021, all areas of Mount York (including camping) are now open!

On the Block opposite 'Misjudgement'.

Contrived face just left of the Obituary. First bolt is very high up.

Major corner crack and a popular all trad line. Beware, the route name is apt - there have been a couple of fatalities on this route. If in doubt don't run it out.

NOTE - the current (2019) print guidebook incorrectly describes the location and grades of several of the next few routes. At least one "new" route appears to be a repeat of an old route. Looking back at the old 1990s SRC guidebook it actually makes sense and this is what has been used to (hopefully) make thecrag guide correct.

Classic face to the right of the Obituary. Quite unique rock. This is a mixed route, medium/large wires and multiple hand-crack sized cams required to back up the bolts.

Start up Atomic Punk to just before it's first bolt - then traverse right to hanging arete (hangers). Finish up ironstone feature on the left side of the arete (#2 & #3 cams). Partially retrobolts the middle of the 1970s scarefest "Oblivion".

Was once a quite serious lead - but the addition of Oblivious' bolts has removed the worst danger. Climb Oblivious to the arete (a couple of bolts) - then climb straight up mossy arete (steadfastly ignoring bolts to the left on Oblivious). The little orange arete up top is still a little heady (good large cam at feet before committing). Tree belay well back.

Starts 4m right of Atomic Punk/Oblivion. Solo 6m up wall just left of fragile scoops to ledge. Traverse left to arete (two old BRs) and finish up Oblivion's arete. It's possible to clip at least one bolt on Oblivious on left side of arete. Misidentified as "Moss's Effort" in 2018 print guide topo.

The ringbolted wall left of Refusal - starting from the ledge. Appears to climb the abandoned upper headwall that was bolted as part of a direct finish to Moss' Effort. Slabby climbing to third bolt and then up. Runout between 2nd and 3rd in the flake section (be careful). Originally graded 22 - but recent attempts have it pegged at more 24+ - possibly missing a hold between first two bolts.

For many years this route was incorrectly shown in the print guide as the arete left of Confessions. The route is actually the subtle seam crack right of Confessions and 1m left of Refusal - and directly behind an old dead tree stump. A rusty carrot is about 5m up. Original description was "1m right of Oblivion Variant Start. BR to ledge, wall (2 BR), escape right to crack. avoiding obvious finish up wall". The obvious finish is now Confessions' finish.

Corner to the right of ME.

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

NOTE: As of January 2021, all areas of Mount York (including camping) are now open!

Best known for the impressive vertical wall of weird rock that is home to two historical classics.

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

The corner past tree. Beware of leaf litter and loose rock at top.

Start as for horror show but follow the obvious line up and to the left toward blackfella barkoo, ascending to the right of the tree. The route is full of leaf litter from the tree on up. For TR access from the first lookout when leaving the carpark.

Starts right of corner at short fist crack Up crack and follow line right along diagonal crack then up.

Great climb on some really weird rock ... Well worth it. Was once carrots, since retrobolted with rings.

Great climbing on very unique, sharp mountains sandstone. A carrot or two and then fixed hangers all the way to the anchors. Has gone from under- to over-bolted thanks to the retrobolts added circa 2012. Currently 23 in the 2010 Blue Mountains Guide

All bolts removed 13/5/2019

All bolts removed 13/5/2019

Right from Engineering Feats. The left side of the arete before the 'Exhibition Wall'.

Serious direct start to Crystal Palace starting below arete of Iron in the Soul

NOTE: As of January 2021, all areas of Mount York (including camping) are now open!

Some of the best old school trad face climbing around, and a popular historic sport climb.

Nice direct finish to Exhibition Wall - clean and a little more exciting but not bold. Up EW for about 5 FHs then straight up wall just right of arete via a single ring, and a couple of solid medium cams in horizontals. Carrot belay over the top - walk off to exit.

"Stupid in fact! Like most of the routes on this wall they could do with a great deal of 'common sense' and a rebolt!" Sport climbers guidebook. "Champagne climbing.." Bold climbers comment.

Up EW for about 7 FHs then straight up the wall via some gear? and a bolt.

Either a visionary piece of bolting, or the start of a slippery slope depending on perspective. Birth of sport climbing in the Blueies. Originally homemade fixed hangers, has since been rebolted on huge, shiny mass-manufactured fixed hangers!

The long awaited direct version of EW and who would have guessed that it would be a trad line ??

Start at EW, up and right as for DF via cam breaks and optional RPs. At third break head straight up to EW rest ledge (or lower right ledge for DF) and finish up EW with large RPs for pro. Belay over the top on medium cams.

Small cams, small wires, RPs/Offsets.

A visionary piece of non-bolting to end the slippery slope...

Up to break then up and right on crimps to next break. Continue up slightly left of RTS third ring then up and right above AOR third bolt to small ledge. Up and right following subtle flake then up finishing left of tree.

Cams, RPs/Offsets, Small Wires. Belay off medium cams in wall over the top.