Ascensions dans Mt Boyce comme Clean trad par davedave

Feels much more placid on the blunt end in approachies. Definately recommend the ~#1 cam slot out left rather than the nut behind marginal flake at the steepness.

P1 - usual slabbing with spaced bolts/gear essentially P1 of Juliet, to right of the two DBB on the slab.

P2 - out left and up following spaced bolts supplemented by gear through steepness, followed by some more lower angle climbing with less gear than would be ideal.

Felt easier than AMJ, but was seconding so hard to say. grAId calls this 16/17.

The usual mix of average to middling gear in the horizontal wander of the first pitch to the cave (many carrot inc. stainless GIMB with fixed hanger belay anchor) - probably worth keeping seconds low to ease rope mx.

Short second pitch out left of cave past dragons head, modern glue in bolt protected crux and up to top.

Note - accessed via abseil gully - anchor massive non-stainless industrial eye bolt and some non-stainless carrots.

No stuck cams today