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The Dam Cliff DWS

  • Contexte de la cotation : AU
  • Photos : 4
  • Ascensions : 367

Accès: Dargans Creek Reserve closed until June 2024

As a result of the 2019 bushfires, a biohazard has been identified on the reserve. The removal of asbestos is being undertaken and is expected to continue for about 2 to 3 months with a finish date around June 2024. All visitors are asked not to enter the reserve while these works are being undertaken.

https://www.darganscreekreserve.org.au/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR1cOp3owVSwGVrc_YQt-lqxTN8ghJHui79bKdwuDA_BT2Ic1WZ6DztPUs4_aem_AfNApoTZ-VkKXLG9VybhPvrzViphrFTHXSwneWuuWE5B-oinQD9G01HFSD_NvJkXjMY-ok59osrSFTRi2UrNscTG

Détails de l'alerte et commentaires

A ajouté il y a 4 semaines - A édité il y a 21 jours
7
AU

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Description

Deep Water Soloing on the 10m cliff in the middle of the Dam. Fairly juggy face climbing, and clean falls into the deep water.

Numerous different routes have been climbed here over the years, and there are a number of top-rope anchors above the cliff itself. No FA details known.

Limit. de l'accès hérité de Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Approche

From the parking area, walk down to the dam pool, and swim out to the main cliffline in the middle.

Éthique hérité de Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Tags

Voies

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Cotation Voie

Climb out of the water about 4-5m left of the rooflet and head straight up with some reachy moves to follow.

ing 6m left of the RIGHT-side of the cliff, up out of water via iron-stone flakes, and traverse left staying beneath the rooflet and following the ironstone band all the way to the far left end of the face staying about 2m above the water the whole way.

Finish up the blunt arete via some technical moves to top out.

Starting 6m left of the RIGHT-side of the cliff, up out of water via iron-stone flakes, and traverse left until below rooflet. Up through rooflet on good edges to regain ironstone band, and traverse left heading upwards to keep hands on the ironstone edges. Crux (crimp ironstone edges and minimal feet) then when about 2/3rds across the wall, head upwards to top out left of the highest point.

Traverse in from the right hand side (about 2m below the top) and traverse across the entire face at its highest point.

Start from in in the water and go straight up. Dry a bit. And keep going up.

FA: Parched climber

Start from the obvious spot under the rooflet and go straight up. A possibly reachy crux. Bring long arms

On the separate boulder opposite the main wall. Climb the middle of this slightly overhanging wall with some really cool moves. Go over the lip and top out for a full tick.

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Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Auteur·e·s: Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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Mar 23 Mai
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