Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Falaise | Qualité | Grimpeur | Date | |||
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22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | Jeu 1 Avr 2004 | |||||
22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classique | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | ||||
22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | Dim 7 Mai 2000 | |||||
with Dude
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22 | ★★ Cheap Skate | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Dim 11 Nov. 2012 | ||||
23 22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Excellent | Lun 7 Oct. 2013 | ||||
23 in guidebook but feels very soft. Awesome rock, great move and position
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22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Mer 9 Oct. 2013 | ||||
End of day pumper in the sun
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22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 14 Nov. 2013 | ||||
New guide calls it "test piece 23", I thought it was hard for 22, but probably soft at 23. Regardless, it is radical climbing the whole way (with around 2 million bolts to keep it "safe"), with some awesome technical sections, a brief bit of thugging, a balancy arete and a thin face. Not a test piece, but certainly a classic.
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22 | ★★ Cheap Skate | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Mar 9 Déc 2014 | ||||
Some hard moves between horizontals at 167cm
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22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Mer 17 Fév 2016 | ||||
Well I too got played with "test piece 23" and "three star" rating. I give it 22, 1 star. The start is good climbing but lower quality rock. I found the arete ledgey but balancey so go figure...
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22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Sam 19 Mai 2018 | ||||
Nice moves, definitely no harder than the route to the left
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22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classique | Lun 13 Jan 2020 | ||||
22 | ★★ Cheap Dive - avec Hayden L | 27m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Excellent | Mer 4 Nov. 2020 | ||||
22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Excellent | Lun 8 Mars 2021 | ||||
22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classique | Dim 11 Juil 2021 | ||||
Great fun.
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22 | ★★ Cheap Dive - avec Tom Williams | 27m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Excellent | Lun 12 Avr 2021 | ||||
Great route. Those scoops at the start! Had to downclimb a section above the break but stuck it. The arete had me smiling
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22 | ★★ Cheap Dive - avec Adrian Kladnig | 27m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Excellent | Lun 10 Avr 2023 | ||||
22 ~23 | ★★ Cheap Dive - avec Stan | 27m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classique | Lun 12 Juin 2023 | ||||
23 in the guide and solid for that grade. Nice to onsight this one. Powerful moves getting to the arete then okay. Really cool
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22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | Mer 16 Août 2023 | |||||
20 | ★ Knot the Mumma | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | ||||
20 | ★ Knot the Mumma | 15m | Blue Mountains | Dans la moyenne | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | ||||
Wander up to first BR then start slab climbing for 5m
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20 | ★ Knot the Mumma | 15m | Blue Mountains | Dim 1 Sept 2002 | |||||
20 | ★ Knot the Mumma | 15m | Blue Mountains | Ven 18 Avr 2003 | |||||
Scarey face grating slab
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20 | ★ Knot the Mumma | 15m | Blue Mountains | Sam 13 Mai 2000 | |||||
with cate
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20 | ★ Knot the Mumma | 15m | Blue Mountains | Mer 14 Avr 1993 | |||||
19 | ★ Mr Poopypants | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Sam 11 Fév 2006 | ||||
Hard move off the big cairn to rock scars! then plod up to top.
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19 | ★ Mr Poopypants | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Excellent | Dim 14 Déc 2008 | ||||
Enjoyable, varied climbing.
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19 | ★ Mr Poopypants | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Excellent | Dim 19 Fév 2006 | ||||
19 | ★ Mr Poopypants (Unknown left of 327) | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Sam 18 Fév 2006 | ||||
19 | ★ Mr Poopypants | 25m | Blue Mountains | Dans la moyenne | Dim 8 Avr 2012 | ||||
19 | ★ Mr Poopypants | 25m | Blue Mountains | Dans la moyenne | Dim 8 Avr 2012 | ||||
18 19 | ★ Mr Poopypants | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Ven 15 Avr 2022 | ||||
Sport route with optional cams. Some delicate arete moves. Start is more pleasant than it looks. Probably still soggy at 18. Nose-butting sharp edges not recommended, chunky gusher.
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18 | ★★ Turkish Delight | 60m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classique | Ven 1 Déc 2006 | ||||
overhung hands to chimbly then surfboard, absolute gold!
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18 | ★★ Turkish Delight | 60m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Excellent | Sam 18 Fév 2006 | ||||
deserves a star. bettter than it looks.
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18 | ★★ Turkish Delight | 60m | Blue Mountains | Sam 13 Mai 2000 | |||||
18 | ★★ Turkish Delight | 60m | Blue Mountains | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★ Turkish Delight | 60m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Excellent | Sam 18 Jan 2014 | ||||
Great! No stars in the current guidebook? Brilliant trad climbing on great rock and with awesome movement and gear. Climbs much easier than it looks and its easy to rap off the anchors for Cheap Dive and clean that way. What more could you want?
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18 | ★★ Turkish Delight - avec Hywel Rowlands | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Excellent | Lun 29 Jan 2018 | ||||
18 | ★★ Turkish Delight - avec DJ | 60m | Blue Mountains | Dim 12 Août 2018 | |||||
way steeper than than expected. this crack is quite unique as you can jam pinch and layback up the vertical ironstone band. then into a tight bottomless chimney. than thrutch your way to success! if you rack your cams on your left it would be way easier.
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18 | ★★ Turkish Delight | 60m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Lun 13 Jan 2020 | ||||
Average rock, nice climbing
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17 | ★ Birdsnest Soup | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Ven 29 Mars 1996 | ||||
14 | No Pants | 76m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Dim 19 Fév 2006 | ||||
14 | No Pants | 76m | Blue Mountains | Pas la peine | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | ||||
Blocky climbing with poor pro after 1st belay
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14 | No Pants | 76m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Excellent | Dim 19 Fév 2006 | ||||
Do 1st pitch only to new lower offs. look for giant bolt at chimney then step left. Probably 16 at least.
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14 | Rainy Day Saturday - avec Sydney North Climbing | 60m | Blue Mountains | Pas la peine | Dim 14 Sept 2014 | ||||
Lots of dust and loose rocks for you and your belayer. Tonnes of face gardening and a mossy gripless runout over the second pitch nose. Certainly an experience.
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9 | Fandooglie | 45m | Blue Mountains | Dim 15 Nov. 2020 | |||||
First lead trad route.
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19 | ★ Mr Poopypants | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Lun 11 Juin 2007 | ||||
19 | ★ Mr Poopypants | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Ven 1 Déc 2006 | ||||
cairn central! intresting first holds...
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19 | ★ Mr Poopypants | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Sam 25 Fév 2006 | ||||
About 16. A little runnout at the top. Ok
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25 | ★★ Red Dwarf - avec Steve Cooper | 13m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Excellent | Sam 5 Sept 2020 | ||||
Really bloody nice. Sick start crux, sit down rest, mega pocketed sequence to stellar deadpoint and cruisy climbing to top. Kneebar rest before top lip lets some juice drain. A few attempts and went 😃. Short but sweet.
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23 | FA ★★ Bad Moon Rising | 50m | Blue Mountains | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
LED with Ant 1980
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23 | ★★ Bad Moon Rising | 50m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classique | Dim 9 Juil 2017 | ||||
Yeeeew! 1st shot today placing all gear on lead, 3rd shot total over 3.5 years. As I've said before, this is classic EXCEPT for the poxy shale-start. Once you get in the crack proper, it's great trad climbing that just gets harder and more committing all the way. The crux for this is absolutely crazy (and really hard for me, I'm cranking solid 24 through that crux sequence... might be easier if you're short, or have beefy fingers?) and intimidating now that the fixed wire is a long-forgotten memory... Hanging upside down on the lip of a roof-arete via a heel-toe-cam to place a cam in the crack below is ridiculously cool. Very acrobatic and strenuous.
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22 | ★★ optimisation | 13m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Dim 17 Juil 2016 | ||||
Short but interesting moves. Got scared going for 4 th bolt on the onsight and though the sequence was good and I did have the clipping hold it felt very unsafe. Much better second go with a longish draw in situ. Cool move at last bolt.
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22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classique | Sam 1 Oct. 2016 | ||||
22 | ★★ Cheap Skate | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Excellent | Dim 9 Juil 2017 | ||||
Awww... Broke a tic-tac crux hold off while cruising (at the 3rd bolt), and thus ends the onsight attempt. Lowered off to the ground and climbed up again from there clean to the top. Aw well... Not as nice as Cheap Dive, but still quite engaging, and I thought pretty hard for a 22? There are tricky moves all the way up. Very worthwhile.
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22 | ★★ Cheap Skate | 20m | Blue Mountains | Mer 16 Août 2023 | |||||
1st shot after cheap dive
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22 ~23 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classique | Sam 2 Mars 2024 | ||||
Thought this was a solid 23. Sustained. Great route.
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20 | ★ Knot the Mumma | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Excellent | Dim 21 Juil 2019 | ||||
19 | ★ Mr Poopypants | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Excellent | Sam 7 Mai 2011 | ||||
With Big John.
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19 | ★ Mr Poopypants | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Mar 21 Mars 2017 | ||||
Had no cams for the first lap.
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20 | ★ Knot the Mumma | 15m | Blue Mountains | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★ Knot the Mumma | 15m | Blue Mountains | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
led
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20 | ★ Knot the Mumma | 15m | Blue Mountains | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★ Knot the Mumma | 15m | Blue Mountains | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★ Knot the Mumma | 15m | Blue Mountains | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★ Knot the Mumma | 15m | Blue Mountains | 2001 | |||||
20 | ★ Knot the Mumma | 15m | Blue Mountains | Lun 28 Juin 2010 | |||||
18 18 R | ★★ 327 | 35m | Blue Mountains | Dans la moyenne | Lun 10 Sept 2007 | ||||
18 | ★★ Turkish Delight | 60m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Mar 9 Déc 2014 | ||||
Second pitch 2. Pretty easy.
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18 | ★★ Turkish Delight | 60m | Blue Mountains | Lun 14 Oct. 2019 | |||||
Another ripper. Great day out
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17 | Demeresque | 74m | Blue Mountains | Dans la moyenne | Lun 10 Sept 2007 | ||||
14 | No Pants | 76m | Blue Mountains | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
14 | No Pants | 76m | Blue Mountains | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
13 | Meanderthal | 43m | Blue Mountains | Dim 8 Août 2004 | |||||
22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
22 | ★★ Cheap Skate | 20m | Blue Mountains | Sam 3 Mai 2014 | |||||
22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | Mar 21 Jan 2020 | |||||
Fun!
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19 | ★ Mr Poopypants | 25m | Blue Mountains | Dim 8 Mars 2015 | |||||
22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Sam 26 Août 2017 | ||||
Enjoyable climb. Starts with cool in-cut scoops that leads to the crux before the traverse (at least for the onsight). Then pretty easy sailing to the top with several ledges to take good rests on if needed.
2nd shot easily. Stuffed up the 'crux' sequence around the 3rd bolt. Once I had my beta it was no harder then the rest of the climb. |
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19 | ★ Mr Poopypants | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Excellent | Sam 10 Mars 2012 | ||||
With Dr Carl and Stu. Exciting start, the rest is cruisey.
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22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | Dim 6 Déc 1998 | |||||
22 | ★★ Cheap Dive - avec Mira, Hayden L | 27m | Blue Mountains | Jeu 16 Avr 2020 | |||||
18 | ★★ Turkish Delight - avec john Croker | 60m | Blue Mountains | Mar 31 Déc 1996 | |||||
18 | ★★ Turkish Delight | 60m | Blue Mountains | Sam 10 Mars 2018 | |||||
19 | ★ Mr Poopypants | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Dim 7 Mai 2006 | ||||
19 | ★ Mr Poopypants | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classique | Dim 14 Déc 2008 | ||||
With Niall.
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19 | ★ Mr Poopypants | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Excellent | Ven 15 Avr 2022 | ||||
Seconded this but didn't feel like more gear was needed than just the bolts. Cruxy start and a reachy arete midway but the rest is very straightforward
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18 | ★★ Turkish Delight | 60m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Excellent | Sam 18 Fév 2006 | ||||
18 | ★★ Turkish Delight | 60m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Excellent | Ven 1 Déc 2006 | ||||
@nded Nick Kaz after he got himself unstucked from chimney
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18 | ★★ Turkish Delight | 60m | Blue Mountains | Sam 18 Jan 2014 | |||||
Great crack climbing if you force the crack (and avoid using the face). Should have led it.
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18 | ★★ Turkish Delight | 60m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Sam 26 Août 2017 | ||||
Great fun and well worth a lap! Only went to the top of the chimney then rappelled off the sling tree.
Fun corner climbing into chimney (but not really any chimney thrutching needed). Rock early seemed a little fragile. |
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18 | ★★ Turkish Delight - avec thara | 60m | Blue Mountains | ★ Bon | Lun 29 Jan 2018 | ||||
Nice corner
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14 | Rainy Day Saturday | 60m | Blue Mountains | Pas la peine | Dim 21 Juil 2019 | ||||
9 | Fandooglie | 45m | Blue Mountains | Lun 16 Nov. 2020 | |||||
23 | ★★ Bad Moon Rising | 50m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classique | Sam 18 Jan 2014 | ||||
Intimidating! Monstrously steep. Clean to the crux move (turning the lip) and then I got scared! A few rests to figure out the crux move, then clean to the top. The lower section is scary rock and gear, but as the climb improves so does the gear. Delicate technical climbing under the roof and arete to the waco, then exposed strenuous crux. The vegetation isn't as bad as it looks. You can thank me for the chalk on the hard-to-spot crucual hold to gain the crux. I WILL be back for the send!
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23 | ★★ Bad Moon Rising | 50m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classique | Sam 1 Juil 2017 | ||||
Alright, so maybe it was a bit ambitious to try and tick this in the afternoon after ticking Grasshopper. With 3 hours daylight left I launched up this. Fell off at the main crux (and chucked a spaz after a particularly painful, gear-ripping fall which damaged my glasses). Found my sequence and went to the top. The roof of this is WAY more vegetated than when I tried this last 4 years ago (and I pulled out mountains of shrubbery back then too!), and I managed to rip out a tonne of vegetation on lead (got pretty pumped too!) mid-roof. This is a great, intimidating route with a hard and committing crux, but the first 6m of death shale is bloody horrible.
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23 | ★★ Bad Moon Rising | 50m | Blue Mountains | Dans la moyenne | Sam 26 Août 2017 | ||||
BETA SPOILERS AHEAD ->
You've seen the photos, you've heard the stories: this line looks amazing. The moment you see that corner leading into an exposed roof traversing into the abyss you are left with mixed feelings of intimidation and excitement. The next moment, when you are tied in at the bottom staring at the first 3m of choss, that has no doubt changed forms since the first ascent, it leaves you with second thoughts, and third thoughts. Once I built up the courage (read: stupidity) to swim through to the first solid hold, the corner and roof are pleasant, besides the jungle feel of reaching around ferns to place gear and to dig out holds. It just adds to the climb's uniqueness, I suppose. I reach the end of the roof (gr 21-22 till here, minus the choss start), place two bomber pieces, and reach round for what I was always hoping to be a jug. To my surprise it was huge. But, a jug to no where. Without the crucial pieces to protect the next section (#0.5 BD) and the prospect of my rope running over the arete and slicing in two (https://tinyurl.com/ycues8g3), I embraced defeat...I lowered down, to then jumar back up and aid past the crux to free (read: flail) to the top in approach shoes with entries catching on the shale ledges. I suppose if you worked out the crux, heightened your risk tolerance to welcome choss piles of death and don't mind jungle fever, then give it a go!
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23 | ★★ Bad Moon Rising - avec zachary vertrees, Vince | 50m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classique | Mer 15 Mai 2019 | ||||
Had been saving this one for far too long , and Vinnie was psyched for it so I joined in, somebody had to clean it after all ...
Enjoyable climbing up to the roof that lulls you into a false sense of difficulty before suddenly turning up a notch at the lip ... bit of flash/cleaning pump and bad hand placement caught me out on the first shot but then climbed through ... Great route, will be back for the full tick soon .. |
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22 | ★★ Cheap Dive - avec John Croker | 27m | Blue Mountains | Mar 31 Déc 1996 |