Noeuds dans Peter Pan Area

The small buttress between Square Gully and Jacks Crack

A 'horrible subterranean grovel suitable only for troglodytes and masochists'. Scramble up the bed of the gully until confronted by a chimney.

1. 10m - Squirm up the chimney and over chockstones to a ledge (DBB).

2. 20m - Scramble up the gully until it again becomes a chimney. Ascend the chimney and belay in the "bowels of the earth" six metres back.

3. 20m - Move out left above the chockstones and scramble for 12 metres up the gully or ridge on the right. 3a. 15m - Variant finish. From "the bowels of the earth" chimney up and exit by a small hole in the roof.

Quite good, complete with overhead protection and escape jugs. This is the ramp/corner at the extreme right-hand end of the left wall.

Quite good if you like loose blocks and slapstick humour. Start at the corner two metres left of Gentlemen of Nerve. Up the corner then right through the blocky overhang to the top.

Nice wall climbing. Start one metre left of Cruel, Cruel Love. Up the wall past four bolts to the left hand end of the roof, then step left around the arete and make some easier moves up to the top.

Up wall past four bolts as for Modern Times to overlap / roof. Clip a bolt on the lip then blast up the headwall on jugs. Double rings to belay and rap.

Start as for Modern Times, at the edge of the boulder above the belay. Clip the first bolt on Modern Times. Step left past a second bolt, then up the vague open-book corner past some gear. Up the blunt arete past another bolt then more easily to the top.

Start at the dark hole at the edge of the ledge halfway up Square Gully. Crank out left along the jugs and slip, slide and heel hook up the crack.

A bit loose and poorly protected. Start below the small corner midway along the left wall of Square Gully. Up the thin corner to an easy crack on the front of the buttress. Follow this to a big ledge, then scramble off.

Start just inside the entrance to Square Gully on the left (North) side. Up the very-open book corner past 4 bolts, staying out of the darker rock of Jack of Diamonds. Pull over onto easier ground and up right to belay as for Peter Pan. Gear required above the fourth bolt. 30m rap into gully from a flat-topped boulder near the head of the gully.

A good climb on excellent rock. The moves from the top of the block are delicate and poorly protected, hence "Peter's Pan(ic)". Start left of Square Gully at a wide, rounded crack.

1. 11m - Climb the crack to a ledge next to a large block leaning against the face.

2. 37m - Up to the top of the block (large sling) and step onto the face - awkward for shorties - climb up for a few moves and then right to a thin crack. Up this to the top and what was a tree belay but now requires a topout.

Start 10 metres left as for Rise and Fall, but take the right-hand crack.

A "worthless and contrived girdle which follows the line of least resistance off the ground". Starts up Peter Pan and traverses the South Buttress from right to left finishing up Matrix. Apparently ties a lot of good stuff together.

A reachy little boulder problem on sharp holds. Start four metres left of and down from Peter Pan. Boulder up to and past the bolt to a thin crack. Up this and cruise to the top via Peter Pan or Confessions of a Stripper.

Nice moves but contrived. Start from the first belay of Peter Pan under a faint corner and a bolt. Up to the bolt, make a move right, then straight up to a horizontal break. Straight up the steep slab from here (keep out of Peter Pan!), stopping once more to place some protection. A good alternative is to move left into Purple Haze at the break.

See description above.

The sad result of an ambitious but thwarted attempt on the vertical wall above the ledge, giving Booroomba's second climb. Start 10 metres left of Peter Pan, below twin cracks with some leaning blocks at the base.

1. 18m - Climb the left crack to the large ledge on the left.

2. 12m - Move left across the ledge between the face and the large detached block and climb down the other side to the bottom of Jack's Crack.

Only a couple of hard moves, but they make the climb worthwhile. Gary Scott did the first section in 1977 but avoided the crux by traversing into Peter Pan along the horizontal break. Start midway along Rise and Fall where a small odd-shaped pinnacle allows access right onto the arete. Step off the pinnacle onto jugs and move right around the arete into a dyke-crack system. Up this and the wall above to the cracks at the top of Peter Pan.

Well protected and reasonably steep. Start just right of the big block and small spike at the top of Rise and Fall. Climb up the wall (without using the spike) past two bolts. Up the ramp to a third bolt, then move left slightly and up to some runners. Continue up the steep wall on good holds past another bolt, pull onto the slab and wander up to a tree belay.

Believed to have been done in the dark ages, but no one wrote it up. Start left of Rise and Fall at a poxy looking wall below and slightly right of a bush. Climb the wall, then the flake just right of the bush. Belay at the Purple Haze pinnacle.

Looks gross. Start at the off-width left of Rise and Fall. Up this and the shallow groove above the small roof.

"Just another classic" - but no stars! Start three metres left of Love Action. Up the wall to a bolt, then layback up the arete.

The poxy crack and chimney two metres left of Nirvana.

Tackles the steep orange wall starting left of the finish of 'Rise and Fall' (and 10m left of its start). Up past four bolts (crux at second) then generally straight up to an easier finish past some good placements.

Another good steep wall. Start five metres left of Static Cling, part-way up Jack's Crack. Place a side runner. Climb up past a bolt to a ledge and up to another bolt, crank past this to a second ledge. Finish up a short corner with a third bolt.

Worryingly loose. Start at the tree halfway up Jack's Crack. Follow the ramps up right then traverse left to a ledge and step right past a balanced flake. Stop worrying, then go straight to the top.

So named because of Crushed's penchant for kangaroos (and vice versa). The obvious line left of Surface to Air; protection is dubious in places. Start as for Surface to Air. Climb Jack's Crack for a few moves until able to step back right into the line. Up this, with hard moves at the start, to a thin crack below a sloping ledge and onto the final ramp.