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The Waterfall South Side

  • Contexte de la cotation : AU
  • Photos : 5
  • Ascensions : 70

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Éthique hérité de Mount Buffalo

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

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Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Voies

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Cotation Voie

Route goes free including the roof at around grade 21. Take lots of cams including some big stuff. It is clean in all the right areas and has some great climbing.

Prominent corner/roof/corner opposite Pulpit Rock. Rap in to good ledge.

FA: Dewhirst & Baxter, 1970

FFA: scott crameri & Tim, 24 Mars 2016

rap off tree to stance and double bolt belay (probably easier to leave a fixed-line).

This route has a big-time feel for a short route.

Step up and L across the void (gear available). Follow carrot bolts up the exposed clean slab. Horizontal break leads to a very mossy slab (carrot) and the top.

Start on a detached block about 5m left of Pussy On the Prowl. A flake came off at the start, probably adding a grade or two.

  1. 25m hard slab start, easing off after the steepening. Belay under the roof

  2. 25m Traverse right of the belay, steep move past a fixed hanger to overcome the roof. Up slab past another bolt.

FA: Illawara Rock Climber Association, 1982

Abseil in about 40m to a ledge via either:

a. the flake adhering to the slab some 80m south of the waterfall, or

b. a pair of ringbolts ?50m south of the waterfall. As you are coming down you will need to walk left to reach the right hand end of the ledge from which the route starts.

Can be done as one pitch.

  1. Climb the corner that meets with an arete after 5m. Scant protection is available to gain the slab, then go up and left (avoid following the main corner up and right), over a small roof, then up to the main roof.

  2. Swing steeply up around the roof at the leftmost of the two easiest possibilities in this area (3m left of the FH of Commander Dildo); the 2006 guidebook suggests that RPs protect these moves, but the gear is better than that. Follow the flake to the top.

Hand crack below bell boys bereavement. rap 100m down from the top of LGL to the base of this crack.

Australia's hardest pure jam crack. Purportedly quite exciting with proper hard moves above a ledge and limited chances to stop and place gear. One for the smaller handed folk.

FA: Logan Barber & zachary vertrees, Jan 2018

Le saviez-vous ?

Saviez-vous que vous pouvez créer un compte pour enregistrer, suivre et partager vos ascensions ? Des milliers de grimpeurs le font déjà.

Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Simon Murray and Kevin Lindorff

Date: 2006

"The Mt Buffalo - A rock climbers guide is the definitive climbing guide book for the granite wonderland of Mt Buffalo. This area is for adventure climbing and for those that love the higher mountain landscapes and rock formations that are unique to the area. Mt Buffalo offers both single and multi-pitch climbs and mainly uses trad gear for protection but there is the odd sport climb around for those that only want to clip bolts.

The Mt Buffalo - A rock climbers guide is the definitive climbing guide book for the granite wonderland of Mt Buffalo. This area is for adventure climbing and for those that love the higher mountain landscapes and rock formations that are unique to the area. Mt Buffalo offers both single and multi-pitch climbs and mainly uses trad gear for protection but there is the odd sport climb around for those that only want to clip bolts. This 234 page guide is the most comprehensive guide for Mt Buffalo and even though being the 5th edition released in 2006, is the latest version."

Auteur·e·s: Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Auteur·e·s: Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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Mer 24 Mai
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