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Devilled Cream Buttress

  • Contexte de la cotation : AU
  • Photos : 1
  • Ascensions : 90

Saison

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Approche

Continue past mushroom rock for another 5 or so minutes. Through the gap between face and large boulder, and across the steep gully you’ll get to the wall, easily identifiably by the dark roof over ‘Commander Cody

Descente

Unless you reach an abseil station, the descent for most routes (from Devilled Cream to King Hit) involves walking to the right of the block on the summit; this provides access to the gully located behind the summit block (ie walk around the block in an anticlockwise direction). Then follow the faint path down the gully to meet the track from Mushroom Rock.

Éthique hérité de Mount Buffalo

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

Tags

Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Voies

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Cotation Voie

An exciting linkup from the top of Vortex's main dyke into Vertical Tai Chi's 2nd pitch. Belay in the corner at the top of Vortex's main difficulties. Around arete to delicately traverse (wire up in a high crack) across and up to a FH on VTC and finish as for that route.

FA: Goshen Watts & Andrew Clark, 2014

Not the sort of route to take your non-climbing boyfriend/girlfriend up. Takes the prominent crack splitting the buttress. Follow this (trench belay possible), then walk left and up short chimney, then wander up.

Follow Devilled Cream past the trench belay and up the chimney. Instead of easily rambling off left, head up the short crack, to step right onto slab at BR, then up via another two BRs.

Up the right trending crack with wide “pod” partway up to bolted anchors under roof

Le saviez-vous ?

Saviez-vous que vous pouvez créer un compte pour enregistrer, suivre et partager vos ascensions ? Des milliers de grimpeurs le font déjà.

Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Simon Murray and Kevin Lindorff

Date: 2006

"The Mt Buffalo - A rock climbers guide is the definitive climbing guide book for the granite wonderland of Mt Buffalo. This area is for adventure climbing and for those that love the higher mountain landscapes and rock formations that are unique to the area. Mt Buffalo offers both single and multi-pitch climbs and mainly uses trad gear for protection but there is the odd sport climb around for those that only want to clip bolts.

The Mt Buffalo - A rock climbers guide is the definitive climbing guide book for the granite wonderland of Mt Buffalo. This area is for adventure climbing and for those that love the higher mountain landscapes and rock formations that are unique to the area. Mt Buffalo offers both single and multi-pitch climbs and mainly uses trad gear for protection but there is the odd sport climb around for those that only want to clip bolts. This 234 page guide is the most comprehensive guide for Mt Buffalo and even though being the 5th edition released in 2006, is the latest version."

Auteur·e·s: Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Auteur·e·s: Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Logements à proximité plus Cacher

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