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Affichage de 1 - 100 sur 106 voies.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Popularité
Little Bay Cape Banks
V4 Whale of a time

Start matched on big hole and go up and left to top out near Cape Town

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 8 Juil 2017

Bloc 3m
V4 Ahab

Start as for Whale Tail and traverse left to join Cape Town and top out as for this problem.

FA: David Jefferson, Juin 2023

Bloc
V4 EsCape

Up through pockets and sloper edge with a reachy move to mantle out.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 16 Fév 2017

Bloc 3m
V4 Cashed Up Bogan

Sit start on damp pocket and slab rail out to crumbly flake

FA: Adam Cufer, 5 Nov. 2022

Bloc 3m
V3/4 Ponzi

Start on the good jug in the bottom left of the overhang. Traverse right on sandy slopey ledges and then finish up the prow.

Grade to be confirmed on repeats. Share your thoughts when logging

Phillip Booth

FA: Phillip Booth, 12 Nov. 2022

Bloc 4m
V4 IS

Start by pressing up into mini roof under IS, go up and follow seam under roof to the left to top out.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 15 Oct. 2017

Bloc 5m
V4 BRAD BRAD

Sit start on the black jug above the B of BRAD and move through slopers under the second BRAD to the jug on the corner. Then a punchy heel hook up and over.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 2 Fév 2017

Bloc 5m
V4 BRAD left me

Start matched on BRAD jug. Move up and left on slopers. Avoids the holds of BRAD.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 4 Avr 2017

Bloc 3m
V4 BRAD is right

Slightly altered start due to rockfall. Start as BRAD and traverse right to go up at the fat flake. Extend into BRAD's right shoe for a more pumpy ending

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 30 Juil 2017

Bloc 3m
V4 SHOER

Start on the pocket below the E of the faint red painted SHOER and the crescent crimper right of the bulge. Powerful first move.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 22 Juil 2017

Bloc 3m
V4 Don't Bank On It

Sit start up through positive holds with a punchy shoulder block last move before the top out.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 2 Fév 2017

Bloc 4m
Little Bay Cape Banks Tidal Area
V4 Tidal Traverse

Starting as Low tide traversing the jug rail into High tide

Bloc 4m
V4 Crabs Left

Same start as Crabs direct direct moving left through pockets to jugs and topping out

Bloc 3m
Little Bay The Big Block
V4 Block Buster

In the middle of the ocean side on white prow thing. Sitstart on slopers below the hole and pinch your way up. Slight right to top out.

Bloc
V4 Blocz

Sitstart and up on flakes either side of bulge.

Bloc 3m
Little Bay Cemetery
V4 Plastic Flowers

Sit start in between SSITD and WG, left hand in pocket at eye level, right hand on sloper. Dynamic one-move wonder to the top-out but nice.

Bloc 3m
V4 Sea Cemetery

Low sit start at the left side of the trapped block with right hand in side-pull jug pocket. Up the gentle overhang through 2 nice pinches and a sloper to top out. Trapped block is out.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 3 Déc 2016

Bloc 3m
Little Bay Little Bay Beach
V4 The Nose

Good slab with scary feet and a palm press to the undercling nose and out.

Bloc 4m
V4 The Curve

Excellent climb with sloper-slapping moves and a committing slab ending. Hard to get down after topping out. Jump back down or down-climb the slab warm ups routes about 4m left.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 15 Déc 2017

Bloc 5m
Little Bay Buchan point
V4 Golf ball

Up the middle of the dimpled slab, straight above the bit of flat rock at the bottom.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 20 Oct. 2016

Bloc 5m
Malabar
V4 Off The Hook

Sit start. Up past the towel hooks.

Bloc 4m
Maroubra Bra Blocks
V4 The son of Cornelius & Zira

Overhanging start, heel hook used couple of time and a nice swing in the middle. Have a rest on the comfortable crack and finish up with the Braai

Équip.: Richard T

FA: Richard T, 5 Juil 2017

Bloc 5m
Coogee North Coogee
23 Dry Reachin'

Start: 25 left of (old?) sewer outlet on edge of buttress.

Newer stainless FH visible next to rusted carrot from top, yet beware the wonders of galvanic corrosion.

FA: Paul Colyvan

Sportive 12m, 4
23 Punks in the Pub

"The muddy, greasy wall 25m right of the shit outlet"

FA: Paul Colyvan

Sportive 18m, 4
Coogee South Coogee
24 R Mark's Unnamed

At the first BR of BaC, tend right past 3 more BRs. All of the bolts are badly weathered.

Start: As for BaC.

FA: Mark Colyvan, 1980

Sportive 15m
23 Get a Rat Up Ya
Sportive 15m
23 Come On Aussies

On the south face of the boulder in front of the main wall. Jump start from small block below it.

Sportive 10m
23 Head Hi Takl

Thin and tenuous climbing past 3 RB to a triple bolt belay.

Sportive 12m, 4
23 All in Brawl
Sportive 12m
23 D
Sportive 10m
Coogee Popplewell Park
23 Spunk Rats
Sportive 9m
23 Stick Flicks
Sportive 9m
Clovelly
23 Haemoglobin

Start 1m right of 'Peter'. The chipped boulder problem is under this route. Start with your hands in the break. Punk up and pull on blood-blister crimps up to sloped hold and top through the honeycomb roof. Balancy. Easier on the tall, rude to the short. You can do a fun boulder / toprope combo too by staying on lax rope and pads as you boulder from under the chipped cave then out and up the wall as your belayer kicks in. Three carrot anchors shared with 'DTD'.

Moulinette 7m
24 DTD

Start 2m right of 'Haemoglobin' at chipped hold marked 'DTD'. Straight up from start hold, boost up to tiny finger pocket and friction balancing on blankness. Three carrot anchors shared with 'Haemoglobin'.

Moulinette 7m
23 Barknuckles

"A 1970s-style five metre hand-crack ceiling about 50-80m north of 'Solidarity'. BB and Friend on small ledge. Out across roof, problematic exit, then more easily to top." [Sydney and the Sea Cliffs, 1991]

Trad 10m
23 F

The steep arête / prow right of the abseil.

Start: left of the prow itself, then traverse right. Some of the bolts (especially in the initial conglomerate band) are hard to see.

Sportive 13m, 4
Bronte
23 Mail Sorter

Start on right of roof crack, left into roof and layback out.

Trad 20m
24 Having Babies

Halfway up Mail Sorter then right over roof and up wall.

Trad 18m
23 Wrinkle City

Start: 25m right of Mail Sorter and 3m left of arete. Up and slightly right to roofs and up.

Trad 18m
23 Poste Haste Direct Start

Up undercut arete past rusted bolt.

Trad 18m
23 Hook, Line and G String

Start: Off boulder to north facing wall 15m right of Poste Haste.

Apparently complicated epics involving pre-clipped draws and bat men.

Sportive 18m
Bronte Beach
V4 Sbrodola

Sit start, easy with the method/beta, hard without.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Bloc 4m
V4 Alpini Albini

Sit start. Climb the first roof than move to the left, climb the second roof via slopers. Don't skip the second roof, exiting totally left.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Bloc 4m
The Sanctum
V2 - 4 Vertical Limit

The grade depends massively on your height, easy tick for anyone over 6ft, a different story for those under it.

Bloc 3m
V4 L-R Traverse (3/4)

Some big moves if you're short, but starting at the LHS of the crag traverse right, all the way around the corner, finishing as for ...

Bloc 10m
V4 Delete
Bloc 3m
Bondi The Main Wall
24 Grand Mal

Sustained and pumpy climbing which gets better the higher you go. Rebolted, chipped and straightened out for the 21st century.

Start: Starts in the middle of the main wall.

FA: Mike Law 1980s, 2000

Sportive 40m, 8
23 R Electric Eel

A left hand variant finish for Plumber's Mate. Needs a rebolt for the upper half. From flake after traverse head left and follow line of rusty BRs to rap point.

Trad 25m
23 Plumber's Mate

One of the best single sport routes on the sea cliffs? Sustained and interesting face climbing on excellent rock. Starts on right side of main wall at the line of shiny new u-bolts. Thin slippery start to jug, up small arete to long reach (sling) then hand traverse wildly left to gain flake and final sustained face finish. Because this route doesn't get much traffic it is highly recommended you rap this route first and brush the sand/salt that accumulates on the holds.

FA: Giles Bradbury 1980s, 1986

Sportive 15m
23 R Modern Plumbing

Needs a rebolt. Start 4m right of PM, at shallow corner. Head straight up corner (3 BRs), then step down 2m and traverse left for 3m. Head up and right past 2 more BRs then left to belay (possible to rap off from here). Pitch 2 is possible for another 15m (scary).

FA: Giles Bradbury 1980s, 2000

Sportive 40m
Bondi Bondi Bouldering
V4 B

Sit start up the overhang on sloper pockets

Bloc 3m
V4 Owen's Slopers

FA: martijn van eijkelenborg, 14 Nov. 2017

Bloc 3m
V4 Rafa's V4
Bloc
The Mattings
24 Fresh Outta Juice

Not a bad little pump fest, 23 if you’re tall, 25 if you’re short. If it wasn’t for the first hold being Perma sandy (a brush improves friction 1000% but the sand returns within a couple of weeks), then this route would be one of the better ones on the sea cliffs, as it stands its a good local campus ladder in a great position, on "mostly" incredible rock. Stick clip required for the first bolt

Sportive 11m
Vaucluse Rosa Gully Rosa Gully south side
23 3 roofs and a funeral

Much easier and more solid than it looks (fortunately). Start 2m R of The Devil's Sandpit and 6m L of Funky Moves (but at ground level). Follow line to lower-off below awesome breaking wave of rock. Start has good holds out left. The 2nd roof is easy, you throw a leg over a big flake on the lip, it's been jumped on but the belayer should stay off to the left till you're off it. Third roof can be done with all the good holds wet.

FA: Michael Law, 2015

Sportive 20m, 9
Vaucluse Rosa Gully Rosa Gully North Side
24 Chance and Necessity

Hard death route unless it gets rebolted. 2m right of V.

Head up the flake (manky BRs), then head left and up to a horizontal. Step right here and continue up (rotten BRs) then right again to a short crack.

Mike Law 1980s

Trad 15m
23 A Certain Flair

The obvious smooth flake, 2m right of Obscurity trad pitch (down at sea level)

  1. Climb the flake to the walk around ledge. May be a lot easier with modern small cams

FA: Michael Law, 1980

Trad 16m
Vaucluse Diamond Bay Northern Wall
23 What'll the Neighbours Think

Up TC to the first break, then step right to the shallow corner (BR). Follow this (BRs) to the top. 6 BRs in total. Belay as for TC.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1980

Sportive 18m, 6
24 Violet Town

Popular. Start as for TC.

Blast straight up and over the small roof (BRs) to the obvious "eye". Continue straight up the wall (BRs) to double bolt belay. 8 BRs in total.

FA: M. Myers, 1990

Sportive 18m, 8
24 M1 Punch the Clock

Still awaiting a free ascent. Start as for VT.

Up to the roof as for VT, then trend right, following the line of BRs up the left side of the black streak.

FA: Mikl Law, 1980

Sportive 18m, 8
Vaucluse Diamond Bay Diamond Bay Southside
23 Redneck Brother

Nice climbing with one sandy move. Use U bolts. Warning: The last bolt before the anchors is loose.

FA: Dave Wagland, 1980

Sportive 18m, 6
24 Mompox

Marked and 1m right of 'Redneck Brother'. Reachy start past first 2 RBs, then interesting moves through pocketed area, past 2 more RBs then straight up to final RB and to lower off. Triple BB anchors above for top roping.

FA: mike law, 1996

Sportive 12m, 5
24 Bringing a Blush to the Snow

2m right of 'Gloucester Buckets' Almost always found seeping and wet. Follow the streak

FA: Mike Law, 1990

Sportive 20m, 5
23 Small Pox

1m right of K.

Boulder past BR to ledge, then up as you will. (solo on F/A)

FA: Mikl Law, 1985

Sportive 10m, 1
Vaucluse Bow Wall
24 Absolute Bosch

Often wet, climbs the wall and horrendous undercling flake 10 Mm L of Rupture. Needs gear

FA: MIKLLAW, 1990

Trad 35m
23 Bottom Gun

FA: Mike Myers, 1990

Sportive 12m, 3
24 Sweet Times

FA: Mike Myers, 1990

Sportive 12m, 4
24 Occasional

Venus' finest hour, 3 m L of MB, 4 rings, L at top

FA: Venus Kondos, 1992

Sportive 12m, 4
24 Nipples to Play With

FA: Mike Law, 1990

Sportive 12m, 4
23 Taillé Prowess

Stunning positions. I was hit by a wave on the lip while bolting in big seas. Either 1) approach 20m left of Bow Wall and climb roped up access rings (16); or

  1. Rap in from top 16m: approach via end of Oceanview St, left 20m and over fence, and down into fisherman's cave. Rap off Ubolt on the ground (almost hidden due to the grass growing) and large chipped thread at head height, near the small tree next to the "ramp" that goes into the cave. This will allow you to rap down following the corner and get to the belay ledge, where you'll find 2 Ubolts. Out left and up spacy arete.

FFA: Michael Law, 2012

Sportive 15m
Vaucluse Trendies Corner
24 Trendies Corner

they used to tip rubbish includin concrete down here. Line. obvoius hard

FA: mikl & greg child, 1981

Trad 100m
23 OS

as for La Technique then R

FA: Michael Law & paul colyvan, 1985

Trad 35m
23 Bladder Control

rap in as for Hey, sucker, then right

FA: Michael Law & paul colyvan, 1985

Trad 25m
Watsons Bay Fermé The Gap
24 Big Dipper

Start in the little corner past arete, 40m right of CoB. Not accessible in big seas. easily seen from the south.

  1. 20m (24) Up the corner, head right (manky BRs) then through roof and up wall. Continue past small ledge (manky BR) to large ledge.

  2. 35m (20) Walk 4m left then climb diagonally left and up to top.

FA: Michael Law, 1978

Trad 55m
23 Snivelling Grooves

15m left of CoB.

  1. 15m (22) Up flake and wall then head left, up and back right to the belay.

  2. 30m (23) Head right to roof then up to flake. Follow flake left to a stance, then move right and up a variety of cracks to the top. Take a large cam.

FA: Michael Law, 1978

Trad 45m
24 Oblique Stress

Start under roofed corner, 5m left of SG.

  1. 15m Up corner (manky BRs) then traverse left under the roof to a crack. Follow this (getting harder) then belay on the right (BBs).

  2. 20m (24) Head 4m right to arete. Up this then move left to crack. Up the wall, through a bulge (BR) to belay below roof.

  3. 10m Follow the jam crack left through the roof.

FA: Michael Law, 1981

Trad 45m
23 Jen's Climb

Start below a thin crack 2m left of the right arete of the cove. Up (manky BR) to gain the crack. Follow this for 2m then move right to the arete and up.

FA: Michael Law, 1978

Trad 15m
24 Life Jacket Chimney

At the buttress above the keyhole. The keyhole is almost directly below the Dunbar's anchor. Up for 4m then move right to the line that goes through the rooves and on to the top.

FA: Warwick Baird, 1980

Trad 30m
23 Boyzone

The second pitch is a sweet traverse along the lip of a roof. 9m right of LGM, below big corner.

  1. 25m (20) Follow the corner straight up then step right to belay as for WM P1.

  2. 20m (24) Move up to traverse line, then an excellent and pants filling traverse left (6 manky BRs). Step down to double bolt belay. Possible to rap off from here.

  3. 20m (22) Move 2m left and punch through roof (BR - hard to clip). Head 4m right along traverse line then move up (BR) and right to belay at far left hand end of ledge (double BBs).

  4. 30m (16) Dangerous. Head up (rust stain that might have once been a BR) past ledge to corner. Follow to top.

FA: Michael Law & giles bradbury, 1980

Sportive 95m
23 Dueling Biceps

Don't do it

FA: Michael Law & Nic Collier, 1984

Sportive 40m
Watsons Bay South Head Bouldering
V4 What is on

Up the flakes line. Dyno.

Bloc 4m
V4 Into the Sun

Sit start

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 8 Déc 2022

Bloc
V4 Caked On

Straight up. As for The Cake, top out not recommended.

Bloc 5m
Harbourview Park
V4 New Groove

Start on the obvious RH jug and LH undercling and progress up through the arete (llama's nose) and RH crimps to top out on the jugs on the right.

Équip.: Ethan Ford

FA: Matt Brittain, 24 Oct. 2020

Bloc
Queens Park The Throne Room
V4 Jeebers
Bloc
V4 Rebirthed

Start slightly inside the cave and move up the steep arete. Big move/dyno to the hole in the ceiling and fun mantle. Have a plan to get back down too.

Bloc 4m
Queens Park Left Hand Side
V4 The Extractor

Crag classic with some desperate and thin moves.

Starting at the jugs below '2/3' stay at this height through crimps around the arete until moving up to the flat chalky hold in the middle of the scooped section. Continue from here finishing as for '2/3'.

Phillip Booth

Bloc 6m
V4 Willy Messerschmidt

Starting under the small prow in the middle of the wall, crimp your way to victory

Bloc 3m
V4 Lola

Low chossy rock 'foot-board' is off. Start left hand on lowest chalked slope and right hand on lowest chalked crimp slightly above it.

Move straight up via small crimps used for the 'The Extractor Variant' and continue directly up to top out as for '6'.

Needs grade confirmation.

Phillip Booth

FA: Unknown

Bloc 3m
V4 The Waverley Traverse

Another crag classic. Traverse on any line, any direction, between the cave on the left and the arete on the right. Punchy and desperate in spots.

Phillip Booth (R to L)

Bloc 10m
Queens Park The Middle
V4 Cheesecake Bliss

Start up Werner Heisenburg to the slanted jug then head left to finish up TLGN. Grade is up for consensus

Bloc 4m
Queens Park South End
V4 No 2

Right of the grey streaks up the pockets.

Bloc 5m
V4 Walk in the Park

From along the above break into the letterbox slot, committing last move to a jug and slopey top.

Bloc 5m
V4 The Piesker/ Child Overhang

Pull through the slots into a committing last move to the right and top out.

Mauricio Chino

Bloc 5m
Unit block
V4 Muffin top

Same start as for little knuckles , but straight up and over bolge with a cool big move.

FA: Krishna thorburn, 2011

Bloc 3m
V4 Good fun one

Start on the L shaped feature either up to the pocket to lip then move slightly rightwards and up. Variant same start off the L shaped hold then out right to the sidepull under the bolge then same top out. Really good variant.

FA: Krishna Thorburn, 2011

Bloc 3m
V4 Good fun one and variant

Start on the L shaped feature either up to the pocket to lip then move slightly rightwards and up. Variant same start off the L shaped hold then out right to the sidepull under the bolge then same top out. Really good variant.

FA: Krishna Thorburn, 2011

Bloc 3m
V4 Knuckle oil sambo

Same start as for little knuckles, moving up into the rooflet avoiding the holds on the lip move right to the slot then straight up. Technical and a bit powerful. Good variation.

FA: Krishna thorburn, 2012

Bloc 3m
Mrs. Macquarie's Chair Vision Splendid Wall
V4 Campus Project 2

Open Project for anyone feeling strong!

follow the right side of the thin wall, owning the starting Campus

Équip.:

BlocProjet 6m
V4 Los huevos de Santi

Start on double undercling, dyno easily to the arete and up, bridging (delicately) right and up through jugs.

Équip.:

Bloc 5m

Affichage de 1 - 100 sur 106 voies.

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