Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Little Bay Cape Banks | |||||
V4 | ★★ Whale of a time
Start matched on big hole and go up and left to top out near Cape Town FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 8 Juil 2017 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Ahab
Start as for Whale Tail and traverse left to join Cape Town and top out as for this problem. FA: David Jefferson, Juin 2023 | ||||
V4 | ★★ EsCape
Up through pockets and sloper edge with a reachy move to mantle out. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 16 Fév 2017 | 3m | |||
V4 | Cashed Up Bogan
Sit start on damp pocket and slab rail out to crumbly flake FA: Adam Cufer, 5 Nov. 2022 | 3m | |||
V3/4 | ★ Ponzi
Start on the good jug in the bottom left of the overhang. Traverse right on sandy slopey ledges and then finish up the prow. Grade to be confirmed on repeats. Share your thoughts when logging FA: Phillip Booth, 12 Nov. 2022 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ IS
Start by pressing up into mini roof under IS, go up and follow seam under roof to the left to top out. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 15 Oct. 2017 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ BRAD BRAD
Sit start on the black jug above the B of BRAD and move through slopers under the second BRAD to the jug on the corner. Then a punchy heel hook up and over. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 2 Fév 2017 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★ BRAD left me
Start matched on BRAD jug. Move up and left on slopers. Avoids the holds of BRAD. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 4 Avr 2017 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ BRAD is right
Slightly altered start due to rockfall. Start as BRAD and traverse right to go up at the fat flake. Extend into BRAD's right shoe for a more pumpy ending FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 30 Juil 2017 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ SHOER
Start on the pocket below the E of the faint red painted SHOER and the crescent crimper right of the bulge. Powerful first move. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 22 Juil 2017 | 3m | |||
V4 | Don't Bank On It
Sit start up through positive holds with a punchy shoulder block last move before the top out. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 2 Fév 2017 | 4m | |||
Little Bay Cape Banks Tidal Area | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Tidal Traverse
Starting as Low tide traversing the jug rail into High tide | 4m | |||
V4 | Crabs Left
Same start as Crabs direct direct moving left through pockets to jugs and topping out FA: Adam Cufer | 3m | |||
Little Bay The Big Block | |||||
V4 | ★★ Block Buster
In the middle of the ocean side on white prow thing. Sitstart on slopers below the hole and pinch your way up. Slight right to top out. | ||||
V4 | ★ Blocz
Sitstart and up on flakes either side of bulge. | 3m | |||
Little Bay Cemetery | |||||
V4 | ★ Plastic Flowers
Sit start in between SSITD and WG, left hand in pocket at eye level, right hand on sloper. Dynamic one-move wonder to the top-out but nice. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 2016 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Sea Cemetery
Low sit start at the left side of the trapped block with right hand in side-pull jug pocket. Up the gentle overhang through 2 nice pinches and a sloper to top out. Trapped block is out. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 3 Déc 2016 | 3m | |||
Little Bay Little Bay Beach | |||||
V4 | ★ The Nose
Good slab with scary feet and a palm press to the undercling nose and out. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★★ The Curve
Excellent climb with sloper-slapping moves and a committing slab ending. Hard to get down after topping out. Jump back down or down-climb the slab warm ups routes about 4m left. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 15 Déc 2017 | 5m | |||
Little Bay Buchan point | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Golf ball
Up the middle of the dimpled slab, straight above the bit of flat rock at the bottom. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 20 Oct. 2016 | 5m | |||
Malabar | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Off The Hook
Sit start. Up past the towel hooks. | 4m | |||
Maroubra Bra Blocks | |||||
V4 | ★★ The son of Cornelius & Zira | 5m | |||
Coogee North Coogee | |||||
23 | ★★ Dry Reachin'
Start: 25 left of (old?) sewer outlet on edge of buttress. Newer stainless FH visible next to rusted carrot from top, yet beware the wonders of galvanic corrosion. FA: Paul Colyvan | 12m, 4 | |||
23 | Punks in the Pub
"The muddy, greasy wall 25m right of the shit outlet" FA: Paul Colyvan | 18m, 4 | |||
Coogee South Coogee | |||||
24 R | Mark's Unnamed
At the first BR of BaC, tend right past 3 more BRs. All of the bolts are badly weathered. Start: As for BaC. FA: Mark Colyvan, 1980 | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Get a Rat Up Ya
| 15m | |||
23 | Come On Aussies
On the south face of the boulder in front of the main wall. Jump start from small block below it. | 10m | |||
23 | ★★ Head Hi Takl
Thin and tenuous climbing past 3 RB to a triple bolt belay. | 12m, 4 | |||
23 | All in Brawl
| 12m | |||
23 | D
| 10m | |||
Coogee Popplewell Park | |||||
23 | Spunk Rats
| 9m | |||
23 | Stick Flicks
| 9m | |||
Clovelly | |||||
23 | ★★ Haemoglobin
Start 1m right of 'Peter'. The chipped boulder problem is under this route. Start with your hands in the break. Punk up and pull on blood-blister crimps up to sloped hold and top through the honeycomb roof. Balancy. Easier on the tall, rude to the short. You can do a fun boulder / toprope combo too by staying on lax rope and pads as you boulder from under the chipped cave then out and up the wall as your belayer kicks in. Three carrot anchors shared with 'DTD'. | 7m | |||
24 | DTD
Start 2m right of 'Haemoglobin' at chipped hold marked 'DTD'. Straight up from start hold, boost up to tiny finger pocket and friction balancing on blankness. Three carrot anchors shared with 'Haemoglobin'. | 7m | |||
23 | Barknuckles
"A 1970s-style five metre hand-crack ceiling about 50-80m north of 'Solidarity'. BB and Friend on small ledge. Out across roof, problematic exit, then more easily to top." [Sydney and the Sea Cliffs, 1991] | 10m | |||
23 | ★★ F
The steep arête / prow right of the abseil. Start: left of the prow itself, then traverse right. Some of the bolts (especially in the initial conglomerate band) are hard to see. | 13m, 4 | |||
Bronte | |||||
23 | Mail Sorter
Start on right of roof crack, left into roof and layback out. | 20m | |||
24 | Having Babies
Halfway up Mail Sorter then right over roof and up wall. | 18m | |||
23 | Wrinkle City
Start: 25m right of Mail Sorter and 3m left of arete. Up and slightly right to roofs and up. | 18m | |||
23 | Poste Haste Direct Start
Up undercut arete past rusted bolt. | 18m | |||
23 | Hook, Line and G String
Start: Off boulder to north facing wall 15m right of Poste Haste. Apparently complicated epics involving pre-clipped draws and bat men. | 18m | |||
Bronte Beach | |||||
V4 | ★★ Sbrodola
Sit start, easy with the method/beta, hard without. FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Alpini Albini
Sit start. Climb the first roof than move to the left, climb the second roof via slopers. Don't skip the second roof, exiting totally left. FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019 | 4m | |||
The Sanctum | |||||
V2 - 4 | ★ Vertical Limit
The grade depends massively on your height, easy tick for anyone over 6ft, a different story for those under it. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ L-R Traverse (3/4)
Some big moves if you're short, but starting at the LHS of the crag traverse right, all the way around the corner, finishing as for ... | 10m | |||
V4 | Delete
| 3m | |||
Bondi The Main Wall | |||||
24 | ★★ Grand Mal
Sustained and pumpy climbing which gets better the higher you go. Rebolted, chipped and straightened out for the 21st century. Start: Starts in the middle of the main wall. FA: Mike Law 1980s, 2000 | 40m, 8 | |||
23 R | Electric Eel
A left hand variant finish for Plumber's Mate. Needs a rebolt for the upper half. From flake after traverse head left and follow line of rusty BRs to rap point. | 25m | |||
23 | ★ Plumber's Mate
One of the best single sport routes on the sea cliffs? Sustained and interesting face climbing on excellent rock. Starts on right side of main wall at the line of shiny new u-bolts. Thin slippery start to jug, up small arete to long reach (sling) then hand traverse wildly left to gain flake and final sustained face finish. Because this route doesn't get much traffic it is highly recommended you rap this route first and brush the sand/salt that accumulates on the holds. FA: Giles Bradbury 1980s, 1986 | 15m | |||
23 R | ★★★ Modern Plumbing
Needs a rebolt. Start 4m right of PM, at shallow corner. Head straight up corner (3 BRs), then step down 2m and traverse left for 3m. Head up and right past 2 more BRs then left to belay (possible to rap off from here). Pitch 2 is possible for another 15m (scary). FA: Giles Bradbury 1980s, 2000 | 40m | |||
Bondi Bondi Bouldering | |||||
V4 | ★★★ B
Sit start up the overhang on sloper pockets | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Owen's Slopers
FA: martijn van eijkelenborg, 14 Nov. 2017 | 3m | |||
V4 | Rafa's V4
| ||||
The Mattings | |||||
24 | ★★ Fresh Outta Juice
Not a bad little pump fest, 23 if you’re tall, 25 if you’re short. If it wasn’t for the first hold being Perma sandy (a brush improves friction 1000% but the sand returns within a couple of weeks), then this route would be one of the better ones on the sea cliffs, as it stands its a good local campus ladder in a great position, on "mostly" incredible rock. Stick clip required for the first bolt | 11m | |||
Vaucluse Rosa Gully Rosa Gully south side | |||||
23 | 3 roofs and a funeral
Much easier and more solid than it looks (fortunately). Start 2m R of The Devil's Sandpit and 6m L of Funky Moves (but at ground level). Follow line to lower-off below awesome breaking wave of rock. Start has good holds out left. The 2nd roof is easy, you throw a leg over a big flake on the lip, it's been jumped on but the belayer should stay off to the left till you're off it. Third roof can be done with all the good holds wet. FA: Michael Law, 2015 | 20m, 9 | |||
Vaucluse Rosa Gully Rosa Gully North Side | |||||
24 | Chance and Necessity
Hard death route unless it gets rebolted. 2m right of V. Head up the flake (manky BRs), then head left and up to a horizontal. Step right here and continue up (rotten BRs) then right again to a short crack. Mike Law 1980s | 15m | |||
23 | A Certain Flair
The obvious smooth flake, 2m right of Obscurity trad pitch (down at sea level)
FA: Michael Law, 1980 | 16m | |||
Vaucluse Diamond Bay Northern Wall | |||||
23 | ★★ What'll the Neighbours Think
Up TC to the first break, then step right to the shallow corner (BR). Follow this (BRs) to the top. 6 BRs in total. Belay as for TC. FA: Giles Bradbury, 1980 | 18m, 6 | |||
24 | ★★★ Violet Town
Popular. Start as for TC. Blast straight up and over the small roof (BRs) to the obvious "eye". Continue straight up the wall (BRs) to double bolt belay. 8 BRs in total. FA: M. Myers, 1990 | 18m, 8 | |||
24 M1 | Punch the Clock
Still awaiting a free ascent. Start as for VT. Up to the roof as for VT, then trend right, following the line of BRs up the left side of the black streak. FA: Mikl Law, 1980 | 18m, 8 | |||
Vaucluse Diamond Bay Diamond Bay Southside | |||||
23 | ★ Redneck Brother
Nice climbing with one sandy move. Use U bolts. Warning: The last bolt before the anchors is loose. FA: Dave Wagland, 1980 | 18m, 6 | |||
24 | ★ Mompox
Marked and 1m right of 'Redneck Brother'. Reachy start past first 2 RBs, then interesting moves through pocketed area, past 2 more RBs then straight up to final RB and to lower off. Triple BB anchors above for top roping. FA: mike law, 1996 | 12m, 5 | |||
24 | Bringing a Blush to the Snow
2m right of 'Gloucester Buckets' Almost always found seeping and wet. Follow the streak FA: Mike Law, 1990 | 20m, 5 | |||
23 | Small Pox
1m right of K. Boulder past BR to ledge, then up as you will. (solo on F/A) FA: Mikl Law, 1985 | 10m, 1 | |||
Vaucluse Bow Wall | |||||
24 | Absolute Bosch
Often wet, climbs the wall and horrendous undercling flake 10 Mm L of Rupture. Needs gear FA: MIKLLAW, 1990 | 35m | |||
23 | ★ Bottom Gun
FA: Mike Myers, 1990 | 12m, 3 | |||
24 | Sweet Times
FA: Mike Myers, 1990 | 12m, 4 | |||
24 | ★ Occasional
Venus' finest hour, 3 m L of MB, 4 rings, L at top FA: Venus Kondos, 1992 | 12m, 4 | |||
24 | Nipples to Play With
FA: Mike Law, 1990 | 12m, 4 | |||
23 | Taillé ★★ Prowess
Stunning positions. I was hit by a wave on the lip while bolting in big seas. Either 1) approach 20m left of Bow Wall and climb roped up access rings (16); or
FFA: Michael Law, 2012 | 15m | |||
Vaucluse Trendies Corner | |||||
24 | Trendies Corner
they used to tip rubbish includin concrete down here. Line. obvoius hard FA: mikl & greg child, 1981 | 100m | |||
23 | OS
as for La Technique then R FA: Michael Law & paul colyvan, 1985 | 35m | |||
23 | Bladder Control
rap in as for Hey, sucker, then right FA: Michael Law & paul colyvan, 1985 | 25m | |||
Watsons Bay Fermé The Gap | |||||
24 | Big Dipper
Start in the little corner past arete, 40m right of CoB. Not accessible in big seas. easily seen from the south.
FA: Michael Law, 1978 | 55m | |||
23 | Snivelling Grooves
15m left of CoB.
FA: Michael Law, 1978 | 45m | |||
24 | Oblique Stress
Start under roofed corner, 5m left of SG.
FA: Michael Law, 1981 | 45m | |||
23 | Jen's Climb
Start below a thin crack 2m left of the right arete of the cove. Up (manky BR) to gain the crack. Follow this for 2m then move right to the arete and up. FA: Michael Law, 1978 | 15m | |||
24 | Life Jacket Chimney
At the buttress above the keyhole. The keyhole is almost directly below the Dunbar's anchor. Up for 4m then move right to the line that goes through the rooves and on to the top. FA: Warwick Baird, 1980 | 30m | |||
23 | Boyzone
The second pitch is a sweet traverse along the lip of a roof. 9m right of LGM, below big corner.
FA: Michael Law & giles bradbury, 1980 | 95m | |||
23 | ★★★ Dueling Biceps
Don't do it FA: Michael Law & Nic Collier, 1984 | 40m | |||
Watsons Bay South Head Bouldering | |||||
V4 | ★★ What is on
Up the flakes line. Dyno. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Into the Sun
Sit start FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 8 Déc 2022 | ||||
V4 | ★ Caked On
Straight up. As for The Cake, top out not recommended. | 5m | |||
Harbourview Park | |||||
V4 | ★★ New Groove
Start on the obvious RH jug and LH undercling and progress up through the arete (llama's nose) and RH crimps to top out on the jugs on the right. Équip.: Ethan Ford FA: Matt Brittain, 24 Oct. 2020 | ||||
Queens Park The Throne Room | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Jeebers
| ||||
V4 | ★★ Rebirthed
Start slightly inside the cave and move up the steep arete. Big move/dyno to the hole in the ceiling and fun mantle. Have a plan to get back down too. | 4m | |||
Queens Park Left Hand Side | |||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor
Crag classic with some desperate and thin moves. Starting at the jugs below '2/3' stay at this height through crimps around the arete until moving up to the flat chalky hold in the middle of the scooped section. Continue from here finishing as for '2/3'. | 6m | |||
V4 | ★★ Willy Messerschmidt
Starting under the small prow in the middle of the wall, crimp your way to victory | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Lola
Low chossy rock 'foot-board' is off. Start left hand on lowest chalked slope and right hand on lowest chalked crimp slightly above it. Move straight up via small crimps used for the 'The Extractor Variant' and continue directly up to top out as for '6'. Needs grade confirmation. FA: Unknown | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse
Another crag classic. Traverse on any line, any direction, between the cave on the left and the arete on the right. Punchy and desperate in spots. | 10m | |||
Queens Park The Middle | |||||
V4 | ★ Cheesecake Bliss
Start up Werner Heisenburg to the slanted jug then head left to finish up TLGN. Grade is up for consensus | 4m | |||
Queens Park South End | |||||
V4 | No 2
Right of the grey streaks up the pockets. | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ Walk in the Park
From along the above break into the letterbox slot, committing last move to a jug and slopey top. | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★★ The Piesker/ Child Overhang
Pull through the slots into a committing last move to the right and top out. | 5m | |||
Unit block | |||||
V4 | ★★ Muffin top
Same start as for little knuckles , but straight up and over bolge with a cool big move. FA: Krishna thorburn, 2011 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Good fun one
Start on the L shaped feature either up to the pocket to lip then move slightly rightwards and up. Variant same start off the L shaped hold then out right to the sidepull under the bolge then same top out. Really good variant. FA: Krishna Thorburn, 2011 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Good fun one and variant
Start on the L shaped feature either up to the pocket to lip then move slightly rightwards and up. Variant same start off the L shaped hold then out right to the sidepull under the bolge then same top out. Really good variant. FA: Krishna Thorburn, 2011 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Knuckle oil sambo
Same start as for little knuckles, moving up into the rooflet avoiding the holds on the lip move right to the slot then straight up. Technical and a bit powerful. Good variation. FA: Krishna thorburn, 2012 | 3m | |||
Mrs. Macquarie's Chair Vision Splendid Wall | |||||
V4 | Campus Project 2
Open Project for anyone feeling strong! follow the right side of the thin wall, owning the starting Campus Équip.: | 6m | |||
V4 | ★★ Los huevos de Santi
Start on double undercling, dyno easily to the arete and up, bridging (delicately) right and up through jugs. Équip.: | 5m |