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Start at the high side at the base of the wall

Grade 23/24? Start below large roof crack in middle of weathered wall. Up and out the roof crack. The manky old bolts need replacing. (Note Not recommend to climb water now continues to seep from crack slippery and loose

Start below the right hand arete of the main wall. "A prominent nose, a bit thin on top.".

Start left of G. (Rebolted DEC 2019)

As per M, but continue to traverse along the break for another bolt then up the tricky moves on NA.

Start: Below orange streak, left of main wall. Thin and bulgy. 3 Ubolts to shared lower off with M

18m R of main wall area, 2m R of a short crack. Up to horizontal and R to Ubolt. Up to big ledge and up wall easily behind.

Start 2m R of 4 moves 3 bolts. Up, up, and away. Bouldery.

Start just R of VC, follow the seam and holds on right then through bulge and seam. Classic Araplies style trad climbing on bomber rock. The top 4m was an old sport route on dangerous bolts. The new trad version was head-pointed (easy to toprope off Vintage Cuvee rings) to find gear including 2 good RPs in first seam, and a yellow and big Blue Camalot in the back of the cave before final bulge.

A great pocket pulling crux. Start 3m R of Vintage Direct, up thin walls and pull roof. All Ubolts now

12m R of Vintage Direct at tree. Easily to roof and heave yourself up and past lip to laybacky glory.

Start as for Show Us Your Form. Step right to seam and up.

Line starts 3m R of Show Us Your Form.

Start as for GR and at the roof traverse across into WFH using the bolts from both. The drag through the draws is quite extensive by the end, and is best dealt with by unclipping the second draw of GR once you've clipped the third in the roof. There are options with how many draws you use.

2 fun boulders. Start up GMS, and move left at the break after the 3rd bolt - Up and thru the small roof to anchors.

Start 10m R of SUYF in cave. Up steeply left and on to the head wall. The first move is the crux, unless you start about 1.5m right of the first bolt - which lops off at least a grade.

Up RS to the Mikl flake (use extended draw or sling here) and traverse right across the lip of the roof to a big move on big holds to easy finish.

Steep start with some hard moves thru the V - then easy to the top.

A fairly burly but surprisingly technical roof fist crack. There are only a few points where it contracts down enough for a jam, so it's big moves between these. You need to get deep so long sleeves are recommended. Start at base of crack with both feet and hands in crack before first constriction. Stay in crack until rounded flake on top left after lip. Tom Bes FA

Butt start between KoW and AP. Up nice moves to break, then more boldly to top. Easiest to stay just left of tree. The big ramp is on for feet only.

Start in back of cave on small ledge. Climb roof to big ledge then Continue traversing left and finish out of sight of belayer on small vegetated ledge on far left.

Roof crack splitter that starts as thin hands and ends with overhung wide trench. Well protected by cams from #0.75 Camalot to to #4 Camalot.

Challenging technical climb with small crimps, edges and 2-3 finger pockets.

Challenging technical climb with crimps and small pockets.

In the cave of the walk in to the slabs, one move to big mantle. Sit start on good crimps to slopers and mantle out.

Needs a couple of RB's and anchors to finish the route soon...

About 4m of actual worthwhile climbing. Up overhung jugs and mantle left onto heavily vegetated ledge. Climb the left line of bolts up the bulges above to a powerful crux at the end. Try and stay off GL.

Starts below subtle orange corner crack with ferns sprouting out of the base. Up corner for 5m then traverse right (scary clip) and across horizontal break then through bulge to finish at rings on the left.

Start matched in the mini-cave to the left of 'Tufa One', resisting the urge to place feet on broken block. Move through the short cave onto face holds then up into break, moving right around the arete onto jug then top out.

Where you walk past a short overhang, this is the tufa-like line. Start in the back, thru roof, and up.

Stand-start on the slot jug on the right arete of the Tufa One bloc (back wall on for feet). Dyno to rounded nose on arete and move left, topping out as for Tufa One.

Start on left side of right arete. one hard move then up easy slab and arete.

Start under left arete, back wall is on for first move only. Slap up and hand-traverse up 45 degree arete.

Tenuous laybacking, start on left egde and layback directly up the left edge, the 2 holds in the centre of the slab are off

3 RB's and Lower Off added 2011.

Start in V corner just Right of CS. Bridge up and jump/leap/fly onto hold below first bolt, tall lads can do it direct. Hard moves on big holds to ledge then layback arete up and right to anchor.

Second corner 12m right of Layback Corner. Up corner and up slapping fridge arete.

Up seam right of 'Head Injuries' and up arete to join 'Surface Paradise'. A few weird moves to a sloping ledge above the 3rd Ubolt. The fin on the left side of the ledge is on. Stay on the right side of the arete above to join SP at the break..

RB's to lower off up right arete of wide crack (22 if you go into it for a move). Rebolted 2006

Desperate! Retro bolted 2011

Start up corner as for 'Anticoagulant' and 'Hercules' then up through caves to tenuous finish on line of bolts a meter left of 'Hercules'.

Was always hard for 23 for a move, then easy slabbing to the top. Pre-clipping the anchor with a sling loses 2 grades, and all your self-respect. From the double RB's on 'Hercules', blast up, 2 RB's to double RB lower off (rebolted 2008)

Sustained and way cool. The rounded arete just left of the Cathedral Cave. Do not stem up the wide corner ('Imogen Easy (but Scary) Start', grade 21); climb just left of the first two bolts (grade 23). If you stickclip, then better to clip the second bolt directly as the first one offers little protection.

Up BBB, then stem up the crack and right into AG. A committing adventure

Pumpy pumpy pumpy. Up right side of cave and traverse lip then up groove and wall to top.

Start as for CF and break left once you establish yourself on the top slab. Finish at anchor to the right of the corner crack above obvious feature (.4 can dilute the finish).

As for OA until for the 1st section. Then clip RB on left and move to the left up the thin slab past 3 new RB to lower offs. Rebolted 2006

Start left of descent chimney. Up slab and bulge (4 Ubolts) to lower off. (Rebolted 2011)

Start: 25m right of the main wall and Tarmac traverse routes, the first line on the smooth black wall.

Up seam to lower off. Powerful moves.

Start up the V crack system (thin gear to start)to an enjoyable top with some very interesting holds and good gear.

20m right of G, starting below cracks at left edge of steep wall.

Up the cracks heading slightly left at the top to anchor. Looks easy...

10m right of ITG. Stick clip high Ubolt and pull boulder problem, right to corner then up and out right for a move to bizarre Greek dancing boy move at top.

Epic offwidth through roof 8m right of Wench. Offffffwidth into sport climbing crux on wall.

Right of MG, at thin vertical seam, battle the bulges, directly up crimpy wall. Originally toproped a bit right at the start.

Keep off the larger holds to the right to earn the grade.

Bouldery with Bolts. Up wall to giant U lower off.

Pumpy fun. Start through roof as for Death of a Black Boy then left along lip and up to single U lower at top.

Start about 2m L of the corner (Slobbery Dog) and up then big move left. Lungey stuff.

Gabriele G

Jorge Packer

ABout 6m left of Screaming Pretty at the base of the descent. Thin corner and roof with fiddly but bomber gear. funky topout. Seeps a bit but ok (there's a rock to stand on and keep your boots dry if the ledge is wet). a long nut key is very useful for placing gear off the ledge.

Dirty and thin. Climbs the face on the right side of the prominent arete. Scramble up to vegetated ledge under big roof, out right under roof and then back left onto thin face. Direct up face avoiding the arête on the left.

Start as for Fun and Destruction to fifth bolt then finish right and up the top 5m of Grass Direct. This was actually the original way it was done.

Great sustained and varied climbing from start to finish. Starts on left edge of cave. Up jugs to small ledge, traverse left across horizontal break and up to under bulge. Over this and up crimpy face with a little left trend under 2nd bulge to water-washed pockets. Run it out up easier ground to the anchor. Rebolted 8/2009

Start: About a meter right of the chipped "PT" initial

A big girdle traverse to get onto the arete. Start as for Eudaimonia to 2nd bolt then traverse right under rooflet (#1 Camalot with long sling) then up ?? at its 4th and 5th bolt then right across Grass to finish at arete of Dirttrawler variant.

Delicate and reachy start coming in the from the left, then through the roof on secret holds and finish up seam on the left line of bolts.

Start: Start as for 'Superforce'.

About 20m L of Soup or Force, scramble up onto ledge. Up and right arete of hanging block.

Start up overhung offwidth, then cut left across little wall and up arete. Maximizes the cliff height!

Long and classy. Sit start in far back of cave - then straight out ceiling on awesome pinches to finish on starting jug of Ultrafix. Don't cut loose on the lip and drop off the edge!

Start up Enjugment then over roof and R to top

Middle of orange cave 10m R of Ultrafix Left. Up to roof and out. Easiest to backjump.

Gabriele G

Sit start in scoop. Up to the right via flakey crimps.

Sit start. LH in pocket on light smear. RH thumb in pocket. Pull up to RH crimp then traverse along to the left. Top out before going around the corner.

Start 1.5m R of Why. Up past 2 small flakes to better flake then as for Why

Sit start on underside of flake on 45 degree o'hung wall. Up flake then left and up slab/flake/corner

Start for Rocknasium and Cool, but stay low all the way across right to top out Rocknasium.

Starts at the left side of Boulder B, 40m R of Boudler A. Up thin seam with a big finish.

Sitstart on old stump. Up and mantel topout

Rounded arête just left of Glorious Manglervision with a tree growing annoyingly in the way.. Contrived but funky. Stay on the left side of the arête. Can be done without, but the hold on the right between the 2nd and 3rd bolts makes it much funner.

Sustained but contrived. Shallow right facing corner to rooflet. Right to flake on left side of corner - up this to arete then left and over roof. Easy to Mcdougall, but you still need to do the 23 move at the end.

Some of the best rock in Sydney. 6 rings crossing wall from right to left - then big move up final wall to double RB Lower off. Very reachy - or dynoy. There is a large loose block at the last bolt - take care. Bolted from mixed trad to sport by CT

Starts 1m right of Orange Face: undercling up to small LH crimp then to thin holds out right on twin seams. Big move up black streak.

Start in the hole off the sidepull lay back. Follow the hole feature and punch directly up the face.

Note: Avoid the thin flakey rail on the left. Very thin, will break.

Sit start right of WYWH. Head up the thin arete/tufa to top out. Despite the hollowness, the rock is solid. Mauricio Chino

Sit start as for the juggy warm up, traverse right to finish up the weakness 2m left of Wish You Were Here finish..

Trend right to top out.

Common start, up and one crimp to the right before blasting straight up to scoop above, then mantle over bulge.

Start low and crimp left up the wall to a slopey and committing top out.

So start on undercling of the big flake, crimp up face.

Link sunset lover into 2 stroke

Sit start on broken ledge move straight up and mantle to finish.

Start on same jug as sandy and traverse right to finish up same exit as Big red.