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Affichant les 22 voies total.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Popularité
Mt Tibrogargan Caves Route Sector
8 Prometheus II Traverse
Trad 60m
8 Prometheus II

FA: Neill Lamb & Bill Peascod, 1956

Trad 43m
Mt Tibrogargan Desperation Wall
8 Prometheus I

A good way up to cave 4 and beyond, not as clean and classy as The Caves Route but a nice change of scenery.

Start about 50m right of Black Orpheus, in a gully that is accessed by scrambling up just before the track drops down and starts heading around the northern side of the mountain. This route has many variations - this description is only one of them.

  1. Scramble up the gully, left of Candy Mountain, then up right, into the prominent corner and follow the apron right towards Ross Miller Route until a ramp is met on the left. Scramble up this ramp to a corner belay below the first bolts of the Ross Miller Route.

  2. Climb the left leaning gully, to a prominent steelwood tree. Belay from here.

  3. Traverse right and diagonally up, following a line of small trees (slings) to a ledge, below a steep short gully. Belay from solid tree or gear.

  4. Move left and up (grade 2) or climb the gully directly to avoid rope drag, heading in the direction of cave 4, either stop at the ledge at the bottom of the ramp in front of cave 4 or continue up to the prominent tree on the ramp. Find a suitable tree to break the pitch.

  5. Continue up and towards the right side of cave 4 (facing cave) into the gully/chimney, with a cruxy move to top out into cave 4. This pitch can be done without rope. The most popular escape is the Cave 3 traverse (grade 2, now bolted, with anchor), on the left far side of the cave, to join Caves Route, or keep scrambling to the right and in the upper cave 4 to the start of Prometheus II (marked). Due to the weakness of the trees on this route, abseiling is not recommended.

FA: Ron Brooks & Neill Lamb, 1953

Trad 120m, 5
Mt Tibrogargan North Face
8 North Face Route

Start at the base of the central north face. A bush-bashing affair with some rock here and there.

  1. 35m - Almost straight up, zigzagging slightly to find the line of least resistance to a gully. Tree belay.

  2. 12m - Out of the gully to the right and up to the trees. From this stance, scramble unroped on sloping rock (Grade 1) dotted with trees to dense undergrowth. Bushbash straight up to a buttress and follow around to the right and up to a rock wall.

  3. 20m - Up a rock gully on the left to a tree belay. Emerge from the undergrowth to find a slab.

  4. 20m (crux) - Trend left up the rough slab to a tree belay. Scramble up left over easy rock and through undergrowth to North East shoulder.

Trad 87m, 4
Mt Tibrogargan South Face
8 South Face Route

Start by climbing to the top of Slider Wall gully. This is an extremely vegetated route, not recommended to pure rock artists of to the inexperienced route finder. From the ledge at the top of Upper Slider, traverse rightward along the base of the rock face for approximately 20m. Due to the inevitable presence of loose rock, climbers must make absolutely sure that Upper Slider is quiet (e.g. deserted) in order to avoid bombarding climbers below.

  1. 18m - Up a broken rubbly gully, past an old peg to tree belay.

  2. 26m - Continue up with a slight rightward trend, past more pegs following the line of least resistance to a tree belay. Up into bush and rubble. At this point, you have two alternatives - 2a) Continue on up diagonally right, through undergrowth and mank to the south east corner and bushbash to the summit, or 2b) Trend left on Grade 1 rock until a yellow overhanging rock is in view. This rock is above the yellow corner.

  3. 32m - From a tree belay, traverse left across an exposed, vegetated ledge and up a short rock pitch. Belay above yellow overhang.

  4. 24m - Straight up, then rock and vegetation to wall. Tree belay. From here, scramble left along base of wall for 35m across a small stretch of slab.

  5. 40m - From a tree belay, climb up a wide gully (thick vegetation). Then up a vertical, vegetated gully to a tree belay on left side. Continue up gully into white corner.

  6. 47m - Up slabs adjacent to corner for about 10m, then traverse right for another 10m, then up to top.

Trad 190m
Mt Ngungun Andromeda
8 Dugglebutt And The Bus Of Awesome

FFA: Ria Zoeller, Mars 2015

Sportive 12m, 4
8 Old Gramps Reeve And His Bodacious Babe

Next route left of: Join The ACAQ And Become A Legend. Easy moves up to the first RB, crux is passing this, then easy moves up slab to chains.

FFA: Ria Zoeller, Sept 2014

Sportive 14m, 3
8 Do Not Shit In The Woods At High Traffic Crags

Poo is very serious issue which challenges ongoing access to popular climbing areas such as Andromeda, Slider, or Coolum.

Either don't poop at the crag, carry it out, or take the time to learn proper bush toileting procedures. Don't act surprised when you see crags being closed.

Last climb on Legends Wall: easy up to first bolt, over the bulge, then easy to chains.

FFA: Ria Zoeller, Sept 2014

Sportive 12m, 4
8 West Route/Natural Rice Cake

From the "Adventure Wall", straight up through the waved roof & onto the plateau.

  1. 8

  2. 8

FFA: Cris & brent, 2014

Trad mixte 90m, 4
Mt Ngungun Upper Cliffs Nursery Cliff
8 Walk The Line

Marked 'WL'. The beginners classic! Up the juggy face crack with good pro to ledge. The top 4m tier is spectacularly pocketed, but poorly protected.

FA: Barry Overs, Steve Bell & Dave Gilleson, 1970

Trad 20m
8 Cold Girl

Marked 'CG'. Similar climbing to Cee Gee Also, but slightly harder.

FA: Steve Bell & Dave Kahler

Trad 20m
8 Plumb Line

Marked 'PL'. Another good lead for beginners. Up nice groove with adequate pro.

FA: Betty Margetts & Col Smithies, 1990

Trad 20m
Mt Ngungun The Sentinels
8 Butterfree

Start on the clean, low angle slab in the middle of the wall between the Sentinels and 8m left of the biggest tree. Good rock. Up seam into small L facing corner at half height. Continue straight up to rap off the largest tree on the ledge.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

Trad 20m
Mt Ngungun The Hidden Slabs
8 Purple Pack

Start 5m left of 'Prehistoric Dog Hueco Variant'. Weave up the slab on big jugs finding the least line of resistance to ledge then finish directly up to DBB. Bold with only minimal pro.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1995

Trad 25m
Mt Beerwah Short Cool Ones Wall
8 I'll Think Of Something Else

Look for the prominent jug on ITOS, about 6-7m up, and start 4m right of this. Or, alternatively, look for a prominent block, sticking out 15cm, about 10-12m up, the route starts below & right of this and heads up through an inverted "v" & much welcome gear. From the inverted "v", head left, towards the block (more gear), then keep trending slightly left, to ITOS anchors at the grass tuft above.

FA: Mark Gamble & Jack Williams, 2007

Trad 28m
8 Avenger VS
Trad 15m
8 Acquitted

Start: About 4m left of Avenger, below the shallow right facing corner. No gear for 10m, then small gear in corner, up this to shallow roof, step onto slab, up slab to a stance & trad belay below the main roofs about 15m up. From here, traverse 15m left to small tree & rap station.

FA: Lee Cujes & Philippa Newton, 1999

Trad 30m
Mt Beerwah Spikey Green Jelly Slope Alfalfa Boulder
VB Up On The Downstroke

Up the right side of the slab. Also the downclimb.

Bloc
Mt Beerwah Spikey Green Jelly Slope Ring Finger Shadow Boulder
VB Ring Finger Shadow

Stand start slab and head up topping out to the right.

FFA: Brent Cobb, 1 Juil 2014

Bloc 4m
VB Textures You Say

Stand start bottom right hand corner and then move left. Some cool moves. Also the downclimb.

Bloc 3m
Mt Beerwah Spikey Green Jelly Slope Jared Boulder
VB Jarete

Straight up the left arete.

Bloc
Fermé Mt. Coonowrin
8 West Face Route

FA: Peter Barnes & Peter Marendy, 1951

Trad 4

Affichant les 22 voies total.

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