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Ascensions dans Grampians comme croix de types variés par Douglas Hockly

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Affichant les 50 ascensions total.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Qualité
Mer 23 Mars 2016 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area
The Ravine
20 18 Point Perpetrator - avec Wendy Eden Sportive 17m, 6 Bon
and this seemed more like 20 with a tricky start if you're not short. Wish I was short.

 
22 21 Minced Beef Eaters - avec Wendy Eden Sportive 20m Bon
Pre clipped the second bolt for the full Dougpoint.

 
20 21 Lake Thelma - avec Wendy Eden Sportive 18m, 7 Bon
Sam 12 Mars 2016 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area
The Ravine
18 Hey Youse Sportive 18m, 7 Excellent
Really nice incuts. Seems more like 18 to me.

 
19 Waterfall Bogans - avec Clive Curson Sportive 18m, 7 Bon
Really nice incut holds.

 
23 Pain Criminals Link-up - avec Geordie Webb Sportive 18m, 9 Excellent
Great varied climbing on nearly all big holds

 
19 Pains Ford Sportive 18m, 8 Excellent
Great but a bit of a jug haul - liked the 23 more as it was more varied

 
20 Try Land Sportive 17m, 7 Bon
21 Brush with Authority - avec Clive Curson Sportive 15m, 6 Bon
Only dim memories but I think it was a bit scary at the start and hard after that

 
19 18 Glue Mountains - avec Geordie Webb Sportive 20m, 8 Bon
I found this quite technical and sustained - maybe it was just first route on a humid day

 
17 18 Gaybarry - avec Geordie Webb Sportive 20m, 7 Bon
Easier if you're tall - one reachy move.

 
Dim 3 Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area
Lake Bellfield Pastoral Buttress Main Cliff
22 Cocky Calamity - avec Wendy Eden Trad 20m Excellent
A good onsight by Wendy. Quite insecure after the crux.

 
18 Skirt Alert - avec Wendy Eden Trad 20m Bon
Good, odd low angle fine grain rock, some delicate bridging

 
19 Udder Shudder - avec Wendy Eden Trad 20m Bon
18 Spare Rib - avec Wendy Eden Trad 20m Dans la moyenne
A very hard start, then ok, then something about the finish, maybe loose.

 
Dim 3 Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area
Town Cliffs The Radiator
19 Hot - avec Wendy Eden Trad 25m Excellent
The route to do, good climbing and position.

 
22 Feel the Heat - avec Wendy Eden Trad 15m Bon
Seemed very tough for 20, good locks but feet scarce on the bulge

 
19 The Only Way is Up - avec Wendy Eden Trad 26m Dans la moyenne
OK climbing with a loose odd block on the crux. Happy to tr it.

 
14 Dirty Work - avec Wendy Eden Trad 25m Dans la moyenne
Appropriately named - the top desintegrates into a dirt and chockstone filled groove. Go L for rock, if not gear.

 
Dim 3 Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area
Northern Wonderland Range The Wall of China Main Wall
17 Checkpoint Charlie - avec Wendy Eden Trad mixte 25m, 5 Dans la moyenne
Worth taking gear! While the new bolts are good, the old one on the crux don't look great, and the last bolt is not a ring, it's a FH so if you want to lower off a single ring use the second last bolt. It's also easy to traverse to the rings on Sprung.

 
22 21 Sacred Ground - avec Wendy Eden Sportive 25m, 5 Excellent
An absolutely desperate start leads to easing climbing. Hard for 21, what would adam demmert know about climbing 21?

 
22 Sprung - avec Wendy Eden Sportive 25m, 6 Classique
I thought this was lovely - great pockets, great rock, nicely sustained. Dodgy bolts but you can't have everything!

 
Dim 3 Jan 2016 - Bundaleer Area
Bundaleer
17 Gerontian - avec Zoe Wilkinson Trad 46m Excellent
Recently attempted this with one #4 Camalot and backed off - the wires aren't convincing. Tried to do it in one pitch, which is also not great as the ledge causes the rope to pull out on your gear. Best to belay on the ledge.

 
24 The Price You Pay Direct Trad 20m Dans la moyenne
18 Island Cruise Trad 30m Dans la moyenne
17 Odysseus Trad 84m Dans la moyenne
Done cause it was raining and a bit was dry.

 
12 Scarab Trad mixte 59m, 1 Bon
Wandery but has some good bits

 
16 The Frog - avec Wendy Eden Trad 45m Excellent
Remarkably good, doesn't look that great from the ground. Slings and biners to rap off as of early 2016

 
19 Crash Dive Trad 25m Pas la peine
Poor rock

 
21 Pathos Trad 28m Excellent
20 Blanketty Blank Trad 28m Dans la moyenne
Remember something a bit dodgy about this route - maybe not such great gear or loose rock?

 
24 25 Bliss Trad 20m Bon
25 Ostler Trad 60m Bon
Thin and hard

 
21 20 Blimp Trad mixte 25m, 1 Classique
22 Lunging for Melons Sportive 15m, 5 Excellent
Very odd!

 
25 Manic Depressive - avec Paul Hoskins Sportive 20m, 7 Classique
25 24 Fistful of Steel Trad 15m Dans la moyenne
27 Angular Perspective (to first chain) - avec Dave Jones Sportive 12m Classique
Dave and I both did it in bare feet - I'm sure it's easier without shoes as you can get your toes in the pockets for the dyno.

 
Mar 3 Nov. 2015 - Victoria Range
Buandik Area The Gallery
26 26 R Gorilla Tactics Sportive 15m Bon
24 Two Tribes Sportive 15m Classique
23 Chain of Fools Sportive 15m Excellent
26 25 Mr Meat - Weaveworld - Chain Of Fools Sportive 16m Bon
25 Hueco Dreaming Sportive 9m Bon
I didn't find this a soft touch at all!

 
Jeu 8 Oct. 2015 - South-Eastern Grampians
North-West Serra Range Dreamtime Wall
20 19 Archies Arete - avec adam demmert, @cathdv Sportive 35m, 8 Excellent
Great technical wall climbing, ducks around the arete twice in the top half despite where the bolts are. Looks like a reachy crux. Not overbolted! Felt quite runout at times. Also felt like solid 20.

 
22 Dreaming of Reconciliation - avec adam demmert, @cathdv Sportive 39m, 8 Excellent
Good climbing, brittle rock - and thankfully we had Adam there to tell us to lower off a ring bolt before the top, where it gets really loose. Funky crux at the start - I could imagine falling off this a lot.

 
21 Dreaming of a White Christmas - avec adam demmert, @cathdv Sportive 40m, 13 Pas la peine
Climbing is ok but too loose feeling for me at the top. First bolt is very high - a good idea to stick clip as it's not easy up the slab. First crux is quite a way left of the bolt. Basically, there's better things here.

 
20 19 Namarron - avec adam demmert, @cathdv Sportive 30m, 16 Excellent
I thought this was at least 20.. though maaybe I was tired. Good varied climbing (even has a jam up top) and mostly good rock - loses it a bit in the middle.

 
19 18 The Perfect Extraction - avec adam demmert, @cathdv Sportive 40m, 18 Bon
I could have just got it wrong, but crux seemed harder than 18. A bit loose at the top. Can lower with care on a 70 - not a 50m pitch. Maybe there are higher chains also?

 
19 The Apology - avec adam demmert, @cathdv Sportive 50m Classique
Great climbing AND rock. Goes on forever (did it in one pitch, 2 raps). Beware the start though, I've seen some good climbers spat off the ultra-technical first crux.

 
Lun 5 Oct. 2015 - Summerday Valley
Main Wall
24 Fritz and Cyclops Trad 25m Excellent
Great steep funky stuff. Pumpy to place the gear.

 

Affichant les 50 ascensions total.

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