Aide

Main Wall 🚫

  • Contexte de la cotation : AU
  • Photos : 6
  • Ascensions : 1,026

Le site d'escalade est fermé.

Saison

J
F
M
A.
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

The slim buttress in the middle of the valley is a remarkable piece of rock. Although appearing slightly scrappy, it offers a large number of good quality trad routes, mostly in the easier grades. What's more, the easy access to the top makes most routes easy to toprope, and the opposed orientation of 'Back Wall' and 'Main Wall' means that you can choose whether to climb in the sun or the shade at any time of day.

© (willmonks)

Limit. de l'accès

This wall has been Closed since the bushfires in 2014… after which some artifact scatters were found prompting immediate closure. This was the first / main wall to be closed as a result of Cultural Heritage concerns, and it should be noted that the climbing community has been respectful of this ban, and should continue to avoid this sensitive area.

© (willmonks)

Éthique hérité de Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Voies

Ajouter une(des) voie(s) Ajouter un topo Réorganiser Éditer en masse Cotations converties
Cotation Voie
Fermé
Fermé
Fermé
Fermé
Fermé

Jam the R crack, chimney, move R to juggy finish. The DF is 18.

Start: Start 20m L of the tree against the cliff.

FA: Andrew Szikla & Neil Phillips, 1979

Fermé

The crack, hardest down low.

Start: Start just L of UtA.

FA: Phillip McMillan, 1980

Fermé

The crack.

Start: Start just L of TW.

FA: Neil Phillips & Phillip McMillan, 1979

Fermé

The crack 1m L of MK.

FA: Phillip McMillan, 1981

Fermé

Crack/groove 2m L of IK.

FA: Phillip McMillan & Nick Craddock, 1981

Fermé

The crack 1.5m R of FH.

FA: Steve Monks & Kieran Loughran, 1985

Fermé

The corner to the ledge (optional belay) then more easily.

Start: The main corner.

FA: Neil Lambourne & Phillip McMillan, 1979

Fermé

Corner as for FH then L under roofs and up. Big cam(s) handy.

FA: Phillip McMillan, Jeremy Boreham & Kevin Otten, 1980

Fermé

These lads had a good day.

Start: Start 4m L of FH.

FA: Phillip McMillan & Jeremy Boreham, 1980

Fermé

As for 21CSM for 4m then move L to the next line.

Start: Start as for 21CSM.

FA: Tony Dignan & Phillip McMillan, 1984

Fermé

The low crux has hard-to-place gear which regularly pops and serves out grounders. Good moves though.

Start: Start 6m L of 21CSM.

FA: Kevin Otten, Stan Manley & Ian Lewis, 1979

Fermé

Steep weakness 2m L of HH.

FA: Tony Dignan + 3, 1984

Fermé

Great first half then a silly low angled slab.

Start: Start 5m L of HH.

FA: Richard Herz & Kevin Otten, 1980

Fermé

Thin line 1m R of RT, trend R to finish just L of TRatBB.

Fermé

The sandbag steep crack 5m L of TRatBB.

Fermé

Poorly protected wall then join RT. The DF past a bolt is 21.

Start: Start at the initials L of RT.

Fermé
Fermé

Surprisingly good.

This route has been upgraded from 16 to 17 in the guide "Sublime Climbs" 2011 by K.Lindroff, J.Goding & J. Hodgson.

Personally, I tend to agree with the upgrade (Con Dritsas).

Fermé
Fermé

One of the best easy routes in the entire 'Grampians'. 'Fantastic' pro and steep buckety climbing.

Start: Start 5m L of TC, at the base of the chimney.

FA: Stan Manley + 2, 1979

Fermé

Start: Start in the descent chimney a few metres L of W.

Fermé

Direct up the thin face to seam.

Start: Start as for W.

FA: Peter Martin + 2, 1988

Fermé

The steep line on orange rock.

Start: Start 20m L of W.

FA: Louise Shepherd, 1984

Fermé

From boulder into crack and through roof.

Start: Start 2m L of F&C.

FA: Malcolm Matheson + 3, 1986

Fermé

It's had 2 stars for 20 years and received absolutely no attention...so off they come.

Start: Start 13m L of 3D.

FA: Andrew Stevens, 1988

Fermé

Barely worth recording.

Fermé

As for GR but go straight up from pockets.

Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Auteur·e·s: Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Auteur·e·s: Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Logements à proximité plus Cacher

Partager ceci

Photos Rechercher parmi toutes les photos

Téléversez une photo de site

Lun 29 Mai
Regardez ce qu'il se passe à Main Wall.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文