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The Last Bastion

  • Contexte de la cotation : AU
  • Ascensions : 15

Il est interdit d'escalader dans cette zone.

Saison

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Description

The areas is formed by a relatively narrow promontory of rock giving two distinct faces. The Cradle Wall is on the East side, facing Iskra Crag, the rest of the routes are on the west side.

Limit. de l'accès hérité de Summerday Valley

While the whole of SDV is thought of as a LTO-only area, in reality LTO's are still only allowed to use small sections of wall: Back Wall, L side of Wall of Fools and Barc cliff (which is listed under Hollow Mt).

While there's at least 2 areas of Cultural Heritage (one minor quarrying site, and rock scatters that were discovered after the 2014 Bushfires); it is understood that SDV is a good example of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Traditional Owners feel that the place is special to them, and they do not want climbers there (except Tour Operators are ok, as they have signed a "Permit to Harm" document).

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Approche

The best approach is probably to head to the bouldering area of Lemonade Wall/Project Wall. When level with the bouldering area head right to the cliff line and follow it until you come to the short steep Cradle Wall with the obvious easy corner of Borderline on the right. Continue left [south] from here and around the end of the promontory to find the rest of the routes. Alternately you can walk up to Flower Power Block, turn right and cross a flat lightly vegetated area to arrive at the same point. The climbs are described from left to right starting at the left most route on the west face..

Éthique hérité de Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Voies

Ajouter une(des) voie(s) Ajouter un topo Réorganiser Éditer en masse Cotations converties
Cotation Voie

2m L of The Mellow Fellow. Up the corner to a ledge then straight through bulge to top.

FA: Mark Savage & Peter Savage, 1989

The corner 1m left of Heartbeat. Up the corner, over 2 bulges to finish up a short crack on the right.

FA: Mark Savage & Peter Savage, 1989

Initialled with a fairly messy H. Up thin crack, veer right to slot, then up.

FA: Col Jenkins, 1988

The flake 2m right of Heartbeat. Finish up that climb.

FA: Mark Savage, 1989

2m right of the Glum Chum. Initialled. Pull over the bulge, then continue to the top.

FA: Martin Houston & Col Jenkins, 1988

4m right of Changing Boots. Up over bulge, continue to top over slab.

FA: Mark Savage, 1989

1m right of Wish You Were Here. Up the crack, left to avoid the overhanging corner and up to a ledge.

FA: Mark Savage & Peter Savage, 1989

2m right of About Bloody Time. Up to bulge, step right then back left to gain groove [balancy]. Continue up the corner and the twin cracks above.

FA: Mark Savage & Peter Savage, 1989

3m right of Ronnie etc. Up with a poorly protected start.

FA: Mark Savage, 1988

2m R of Momentary etc. Up to the scoop, then up.

FA: Mark Savage, 1988

3m right of Signs of Life is a deep gully/chimney feature. Start up the left side of this, step up onto the block, climb up to small roof, handhold on right corner. Reach up to jugs then layback up the steep shallow corner, continue on up.

FA: Mark Savage & Jarrod Smith, 1988

6m right of Brain Damage. Up the right side of the overhang then straight up.

FA: Jarrod Smith & John Savage, 1988

3m right of Pigs on the Wing. Up the thin crack. Good and quite awkward getting through the bulge.

FA: Michael Daykin & Lisa Fry, 1988

3m right of Laughing Lisa. Take right hand corner up to roof. Traverse left to centre of roof, then straight up. I assume that this climb is based on the wide crack through the overhang right of LL, pulling through the bulge on its left.

FA: Chris Hurstfield, 1988

Takes the obvious buttress left of Bastille. Start up the crack on the left hand side. Pull out right on the horizontal break to below the crack in the middle of the face. Up the crack then up and right on unexpected juggy pockets.

FA: Philip Armstrong. Kathy Matic & Peter Cody, 12 Sept 2018

About 25m right of Viewfinder is a prominent chimney line. Up.

FA: Bill Andrews, 1986

3m right of Bastille, marked with a small painted square. Up to and up the steep wide juggy crack.

FA: Jarrod Smith & Michael Pirzas, 1988

Comfortably Numb was described as being 1.5m right of this climb. However, there is no feature matching this description anywhere near CN. Climb to the horizontal crack, up for 4m then finish up the corner on the left.

FA: Peter Savage & Mark Savage, 1988

Very faintly initialled thin crack. Climb about 3/4 of the way up then veer left to top. This face is steep, has suspect small holds and little obvious gear. It looks much harder than grade 11.

FA: Mark Savage & Peter Savage, 1988

Exciting climbing up a steep arête. 10m left of The Cradle on a separate block is an obvious arête. Start near the ground, then up, reaching right at the crux, and up past bolt runner to finish.

FA: Andrew Stevens & Peter Stebbins, 1991

From Run Like Hell walk around the foot of the cliff until you are below a short steep square cut wall. This is The Cradle face. It is bounded on the left by a juggy left leaning chimney line. Up this finishing up the left wall.

FA: Michael Green, Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 2007

Left leaning crack at left end of Cradle wall, just right of ME109

FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody & Josh Tucker, 2007

Just right of Focke-Wulfe. Up past horizontal break to the cradle. Up and slightly left to top.

FA: Andrew Stevens & Peter Stebbins, 1991

Traverse right from the start of The Cradle to the next line, up this.

FA: Peter Cody, Josh Tucker & Philip Armstrong, 2007

Just left of the right arête of the cradle face. A bulging seam.

FA: Peter Stebbins & Andrew Stevens, 1991

Start as for Cradle Snatcher. Take the steep right leading crack almost to the arête. Step back left and and up seams near the arête.

FA: Mark Schroeder & Chris Drake, 1996

5m left of Borderline. Head up to and climb the hollow orange flakes past a small overhang.

FA: Mark Savage & Peter Savage, 1990

Up the face 3m left of Borderline.

FA: Chris Watson & Tony Wilson

The obvious corner above the ledge at the right hand end of Cradle Wall. Some people may wish to rope up to access this ledge.

FA: Bill Andrews, 1984

Start 2m right of Borderline. Up the steep face crossing the horizontal break. Spaced protection.

FA: Anthony Wregg, Steven Barnett & Bruce McMurdo, 1991

At the right edge of the Flatulence face is a shallow left leaning crack/groove leading to jugs on the left.

FA: Mark Savage, Peter Savage & Michael Pirza, 1990

Face 2m right of Clan of the Pooh Bear. Go up the middle, finishing direct.

FA: Mark Schroeder & Chris Drake, 1996

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Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Auteur·e·s: Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Auteur·e·s: Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Logements à proximité plus Cacher

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Mer 31 Mai
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