Aide

Jimmy's Bloc

  • Contexte de la cotation : AU
  • Photos : 1
  • Ascensions : 71
  • Aka: Dunkeld Boulder
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Description

A large Boulder with a great variety of climbing.

Limit. de l'accès hérité de Mt Abrupt

Natural Values Area 26 Mud-Dagjug

©

Approche

100 metres from Gate at old Mt Abrupt walking trail. Park at gate, and walk west along obvious track until you reach the boulder, which you will be able to see from the gate. This property is private so please be respectful.

Éthique hérité de Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Historique

Graphique de l'historique des voies

A thousands lives this boulder has lived. From very faint aboriginal rock art underneath the graffiti on the head wall (two figures), to fire pits and old bash in carrots. This boulder has gone from ancient shelter, picnic boulder, campground, car park to a now quiet bouldering spot. Please be mindful of the indigenous art underneath the Mt T 1973 graffiti, and don't add or climb routes on the blankish head wall (they would be V15 plus anyway)

Tags

Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Voies

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Cotation Voie

Sit start on nice jug feature near fire pit. Move up through crimps and pinches in nice features rock.

FA: Pommie Ian

Definitely not Flip Flops. Start as for Leather Bound Pound, but instead of heading left to good holds, make huge move directly up to a good rail. From here, work left and finish as per LBP. Add a grade if you're short.

FA: Jimmy Stephens, 26 Jan 2016

An afterthought, but probably a better start. Sit start low in giant sloping rail, traverse right into featured crimps and up original Leather Bound Pound finish.

FA: James Stephens

Same start as Leather Bound Pound, though head left through sloping jug feature and finish up crack with good holds.

FA: Louis Godsell

Start as for Journey through the Cossmoss and move through cave using pinches, underclings and gastons to reach jugs and finish up Reclusive Genius. Should go at around V10

Starts on pockets as for Journey Through the Cossmoss then technical moves L all the way across the cave to finish at the start of LBP.

FA: Goshen Watts, 2014

A much nicer start that connects into the best bits of 'Reclusive Genius'. Start far left near fire pit on jugs (pockets etc), move into lip on slopes and jugs, traverse R via some hard moves into the jugs on Reclusive Genius and up as per that.

FA: Jimmy Stephens, 12 Août 2014

Classic, with a dinky start move. Sit at back of cave in middle of overhang with small edges, press into flake, pull up to crimps and make huge moves to good holds. (Old carrot bolt is out and can't be used for aid)

FA: Louis Godsell

On descent ramp, start on lowest point, and traverse L all the way and up Dirty!

Start 2m right of dirty! on big juggy flake and up.

Heading R not using jughy lay back is V2/3

The warm up route. Start in large pockets, move up through pinches and jugs to a precarious mantle. Watch the tree!

FA: James Stephens

Start with left on jug in cave, move left into side pull. Compress/squeeze your way up the arete till gaining ledge.

FA: James Stephens

Start in cave, on good pocket and jug, move up into the razor sharp crimps and move to slopey nothing's to gain jugs.

FA: Louis Godsell

Start low on sloping ramp, heel hook and slap along till you reach end of ramp and clamber over slopers.

FA: James Stephens

Start as of "He Wants My Hair Bernard" and continue traversing through rising lip, till you reach good holds.

FA: Goshen Watts

Start on with R hand on big side pull and L on undercling. Move up left into scoop and out left avoiding big ledge out left. Gain pockets then mantle up.

FA: Dick Lodge

Mantle madness. Start on dishes and climb up through bloc cave and reach for lip. Grovel and beg your way over the top. FA involved swear words for aid.

FA: Goshen Watts

Start just left of History of Screaming on giant undercling, move up on sharp pockets then left via slopey holds, finishing on the ramp.

FA: Jimmy, 2015

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Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Auteur·e·s: Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Auteur·e·s: Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Logements à proximité plus Cacher

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