Noeuds dans Northern Wonderland Range

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

This is the obvious cliff on the north side of the Venus Baths path.

Thin, with spaced pro. Take small cams. Up slabby left arete of Socrophilliac for 12m to break (#4 cam), right 2m above break along thin, horizontal crack almost into Socrophiliac, then delicately to ledge. Left arete and over bulge.

Landmark, left facing corner crack on left side of outcrop.

Crack 4m right of Socrophiliac to break, right and up over bulge on arete to ledge. L to crack, up to short traverse into Socrophiliac.

Likely not a 1st but anyway

Along south side of Venus Baths walking track (i.e. the track starting from the caravan park, not the botanic gardens), an array of boulders are spread out below Mackeys Peak and the Elephants Hide.

A brilliant boulder for easier grade climbers. Maybe the best easier block in the Venus Baths area. Has an easy face around the front to warm up on and then a nice scoop on the left side. It is also known as the 'Fishbowl Boulder', thus the oceanic problem names. There is some suspicious rock on the far left, but it's out of the way of the more popular problems. The boulder is right on a popular tourist track so be aware of walkers and don't put them at any risk, scrub off chalk & tick marks, and be prepared for 10year old kids to walk past and ask if you have ever fallen... There has been graffiti on the rock, but Parks and some locals scrubbed it off as best they could. Feel free to continue the cleaning!

Start as for Man Overboard, bust horizontally left and get left hand to descent side pull, launch right hand to where your left hand was on thank god the kids are gone, then left hand up to good edge, bump left hand again to monster rounded jug, right hand stretch directly up to good hold, then pop right again and balance your way through the top out. First two moves feel like a v2 then v0 to finish.

Start matched as for Man Overboard, but continue traversing left and top out on the left of the prow. Watch out for dodgy broken rock.

Start Matched on the big juggy flake under the roof, move up & left through sloper to funky rail, then up and right through overhang on good holds to a bit of a spicy top out.

Three quite fun moves! Sit Start with funky pockets on the left under the Juggy Flake. Figure out how to pull of the ground then move to the jug, and (dynamically) up and right to a sloper on the lip of the overhang. Top out directly with a gnarly mantle!!! Don't be temped to escape left to an easier top out. Can be started deep in the overhang on crimps at about V6 (V6 FA: Oliver Tobias Bug?)

Note: Community feedback prompted grade change from V3 to V4.

Start on jugs on the right of the main overhang, climb straight up to a surprisingly spicy top out slightly to the left. Can be started on crimps deeper in the cave if you feel like adding a move or two. Please don't break your face on the top-out, you have been warned...

Start as for Tug Boat but traverse left past Axolotl on small but decent holds, rise up and continue left around overhang to top out as for Man Overboard. Guaranteed to get a pump happening.

Sit start basically under the boulder with hands on big incut rail. Go up through sloper and crimps to topout at the tallest point on the boulder.

Start on the centre of the easy wall. Go up and left and finish in the jug flake on the top left of the face.

Middle of wall, topout on jug to the right.

Just after the first boulders are reached, this one is by a ramp leading down to the creek, sporting an obvious diagonal.

A deceptively tricky handcrack. Done with gloves at the grade, would be a bit harder without, and may require more skin that you are willing to give.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

The steep overhang 6m left of The Beanstalk is marked by a thin seam, followed by a necky headwall high above a back breaking boulder. Will go, but it will be hard and terrifying.

The thin, high seam 3m left of The Beanstalk may be climbable.

The all too obvious seam up the west face.

Scramble around the top of the boulder to find these problems on the opposite (east) face.

Just right of the corridor (in front of a tree) are some vertical seams dropping down from the top of the boulder. Climb them from a stand start.

Start just right of Tweedle Dum, head left and up to the high rails and top out.

From a stand start just left of the tree in the middle of the face, climb the vertical seams on side pulls.

Just right of the tree in the middle of the face. From the edge and side pull, climb the seam above.

Stand start above a covered hole at the right end of the face. Climb the short face above.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Doesn't look like much but packs in some hard technical climbing. From a desperate sit start off side pulls climb the boulders nose past increasingly sloping holds.

Tall Boulder up from the walking track.

The top-outs are high and insecure. There has been at least one serious injury after falling from the top.

Our advice would be not to make this your first V2. The easy line up the middle of the face 2m right of the tree, finishing just left of the crack at top.

Stand start on large jugs on face and move up through side pulls and crimps to a committing crux high off the ground. Rent a spotter or 3.

Start on obvious chalked rail (half a metre right of Ceramics) and work your way up the arête to a committing few moves up high.

The slab L of the tree up the back of the Ceramics boulder. Start just at the loose looking flake down low.

The R arete of the back of the Ceramics boulder, R of the tree, 3m of Broken China. Worth a pad or two to fill the landing.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

In the cleft right of Mars Attacks is a diagonal pencil seam. Climb the seam from a stand start via several desperate moves - watch your back.

Climbs the blunt prow of the spaceship boulder from a sit start.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Sit start on small side pull edges then up with difficulty compressing heinous slopers on the awesome prow/arete (slightly left of line in printed guide)

The line in the print guide, which is not how Arnie climbed First Blood. Start as for FB but shoulder up out of the flake to crap then better sloper pockets in seam to regain upper flake.

Sit start on left hand arete (be careful of the edge now) traversing right using the lowest holds before finishing up First Blood.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C6A0yY2SpA-/

Sit start on the left side of the boulder and climb the arete to top out. Careful of the drop off.

Just left of the right end of the boulder is a scaly purple streak. Climb dimples to the shallow pocket, from where you make a big move left, finishing up the scoop.

Just another high quality, high and mighty, terrifying highball. 3m above the main track is a high purple jug. From this climb the slab and seam above.

The blunt arete on the track with a dihedral corner is climb from a stand start off a flat top jug.

Left of S&M Arete is an easy runnel that is climbed from a stand start.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climb the juggy face right of arete from a sit.

The right arete doesn't look hard at first blush, but closer inspection reveals few holds. From a stand start balance up to a relenting finish.

Start as for 'Helluva Miller' and head directly up rather than escaping right.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Stand start just right of tree, finishing via a desperate mantel.

From the same start as Bath Shark, climb left and up to a hard mantel.

Short and punchy. From a sit start on slopey edge and side pull, follow the prominent seam to a slabby exit.

Climbs the right arete. Start on the faux tufa and follow the vertical seams up the blunt arete to top out.

The slab on the back (just right of the arete) may need a bit of a clean before you wobble up it.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

The beautiful cracked face is deceptively hard. From the stand start climb the face past a very hard deadpoint.

From the start holds of TBC, climb the diagonal rightwards.

Good warm up. Sit start on low jugs down and right of the start of TBC. Climb up and right.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Sit start on crimps, head left and up through gaston and crimp to a high top out.

Sit start on crimps, head right and up via very hard and shouldery moves.

Two obvious boulders leaning on each other on about 5-8mins walk up the Venus Baths Track.

The boulders are easily seen from either side of the track, but are actually on the side leaving the caravan park.

Start on the chalked crack just to the right of the V3. Head straight up.

Sit-start on sloping rail. Trend up and right using slopers and eventually jugs.

Tricky start, eases as you go. From a sit start on the finger jug, climb up the juggy wall.

Sit start as per the V1, then head up and left to top out.

Sit start with chalked-up LH pocket and RH gaston.

Bridge between the boulders to establish feet on the rail for v5 problem and the larger boulder. Use the big holds along the crack to traverse the boulder and finish on the V0 at the other end. Finish is the hardest part.

Sit start on low flakey rail, pull up onto large flat rail and make tricky move left to sloper and top out.

Sit start as with other problem on boulder then head left, Dyno to good crimp, delicate top out.

Climb You Beaut to the crimp. Then make a big span left to the arete. Match and hold the swing before swarming around the arete to finish up the slab.

On the back side of the boulder (left of where the 2 boulders rest against each other), sit start on the flat hold, up to slopers and short face.

Located on the backside of the larger boulder, near where the two boulders touch. Sit start the left crack.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Great climbing on a solid line. Sit start on the jug at the bottom of the rising diagonal cleft, which is followed rightward to top out on the far right of the boulder.

Start as for easy lane. RH to sidepull just above start jug, wind up and hit the diagonal. Finish up left. 1 mover.

The easy arete is climbed from a sit.

Just up the hill from Diagonal Laneway boulder. Start off big side pull and crimp, head up through spanny moves. Bit sandy but still worthy.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Techy bridging that follows seams up the groove to the left of Immersion.

On the east side of the boulder (facing downstream) is a blunt arete. From a sit start (the stand is a very good V8 in its own right) climb the edges right of the seam. Long moves lead to a tricky conclusion. Try not to ping off into the creek.

Start on flat jug, use the seam to stand up and hop for a slopey hold. Topout is tall and mossy but easy.

High and dangerous. On the back side is a short slab that leads to a sickle crack.

Alongside the tracks.

Sit start. Left hand and right hand on lower flake (somewhat hugging the boulder). Bump up left hand, heel hook right leg. Bump up right hand, heel hook left leg, then make your way up the boulder.

Start as for "Silver Linings" before traversing rightward and up slopers and jugs.

Sit start around R of SL on an obvious positive edge. Up L on the slopes and side pulls.

Large boulder right on the walking track right before the large footbridge on the walking track (the side heading from the caravan park).

1 metre left of Stoplight Arete, sit start in crack and layback up corner. Fun.

Start as for Stoplight Arete but bust out left via under clings and up face.

Sit start/crouched on slopey edges and up pinching up the arete.

Classic. Stand start on small crimp edges, move left into corner and make a committing few moves up to large holds to top out.