Noeuds dans Town Cliffs

Note: 'The Grand Old Man', 'Jacks Rest', 'Fallen Slab Wall' and 'Arch Wall' have previously been grouped in this Northwest area. However, these 4 crags are located high on the range and, while they either face west and/or are just on the west side of the ridge, they are accessed from the east (Pomonal) side. Therefore they have been placed in the Northeast 'Mt William' Range section (over here).

Visible above the intersection of the Halls Gap-Stawell and Ararat-Halls Gap Roads, this little cliff is on the southeast side of the Sentinel. The rock is unattractive and loose, and pro- tection not good.

Cliff faces east. Walking time ten minutes.

NOTE: Description and route ABITO taken from VCC 2001 update.

Cairned. The black buttress which is undercut on its right side and with a smooth orange wall below an overlap; near the middle of the cliff. Step up right from easy line on left, and then up (easing significantly).

NOTE: Details taken from VCC 2001 update.

This is the loose, hollow, blocky line in the middle of the cliff.

Starts 2m right of Irate Depositors. Well worth doing. Climb the wall past a bolt, through an overhang and up the corner past a fixed wire. Continue up the flake and wall above past another bolt.

NOTE: Detail taken from VCC online update 2001.

Towards the top of the descent gully at the left end of the cliff is an easy corner. A tricky layback with just sufficient protection. Climb the slabby wall then the seam just left of this. (Take a 5RP for use at half height).

About 20m left of Face Dancers, half way up the descent track is a rib sticking out from the crag. It forms a corner with an orange wall, with an oval boulder on top. Up face 2m left of corner, past a small flake and onto the “Breadknife”. Up until it joins the corner, step onto the right face, and bridge up.

Something for everyone. Climb the major yellow corner 8m down right of Space Cadets. Finish up the left arête then the groove. Pass three bolts en route.

The corner about 10-15m left of Face Dancers.

Starts on the left side of the left but- tress at a large tree. Up the wall to a ledge and over an “overlap” to some flakes which lead diagonally up left. Up the wall just right of the arête.

Starts about 12m right of Face Danc- ers just left of Cosy Corner. Gain the flake just left of the corner and follow it for 5m, move right and up the wall to the arête which is followed to the top.

The prominent corner between Sliding Dog Sandwich and the descent gully.

Climb the last crack (going right at 7m) before the boulder on the north side of the descent gully.

This climb follows the obvious stepped corner that starts 5m right of the de- scent gully. At the arête easy climbing leads to a small tree.

This must be some new meaning of the phrase “superdirect” that I am not familiar with. The shallow groove above the mid-point of the diagonal traverse. A direct start would make for an independent climb.

We all make mistakes. The arête and crack just right of White Crow. Finish on the first ledge and wonder why you bothered.

Starts about the middle of the right hand buttress at a widish crack. This is followed to a good ledge. Move left and up the arête (as led) or just right of it (as seconded, grade 16).

Short but committing layback. Scramble up to ledge with tree on the right side of the right hand buttress. Climb the distinctive thin right leaning flake above.

A small cliff in a good position with a few nice lines.

An attractive line with a dramatic finish which looks much harder than it is. The original write up gave the route as being 15m and only covered the top half of the climb. As there is no easy way of accessing the top half I have added a start. The route takes the right-facing, right-leaning corner in the upper half of the LH buttress. There is a gully in the middle of the LH cliff which leads up to this line. Scramble 6m up this to belay below the first steep rock. Climb cracks towards the LH side of the gully with an awkward exit to the foot of a R leading ramp. Up the ramp to the headwall. L and up to gain the corner then up this.

The RH cliff is about 60m R of Altitude Sickness. It has a steep compact central buttress bounded on the L by a corner. Start 3m L of this corner. Up loose slabby face following dirty cracks to deep crack/groove in steep headwall. Up this on suspect rock to finish up easier groove above. An unpleasant experience all round.

The corner R of THofS. Start down R and finish up a narrow chimney.

R of Camp 4 is a steep clean buttress with 2 good deep crack lines. Left crack. Above the difficulties step out L and up the short steep face. A couple of large cams around BD#4 size are useful.

The RH crack.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Some OK faces, slabs and buttresses with easy access for top-roping. Primarily used by commercial instruction groups for abseiling and top-roping activities.

L arête of main slab, starting from boulder.

Access and descent from the top of the main cliff is to the right.

Link up of 'Rush' and 'Was It Worth It?'

This route has no protection at all and has probably never been led. An interesting top rope exercise the grade depending on how directly you climb it.

Start as for 'Rush'. Then left into 'Burden Of Proof'.

No chimneying required! Major L.facing chimney bounding R side of main slab.

Good crack. Up R from foot of BP to undercut crack in R wall of BP. Up this and the line above.

Exciting climbing in an excellent position up the L arête of the pillar. Climb seam 1m R of CW and go up R to arête. Straight up this, R of CW all the way.

Nice positions. From foot of big, R.facing corner on R side of pillar, go up and L to arête. Up cracks in this.

Dramatic finish. From foot of Punt Road, go up big, R.facing corner for 6 m. L in horizontal break to crack. Up, finishing steeply.

trad Major, R.facing corner bounding R side of the pillar. (Pay the Price starts up HS.)

Clean, smooth, R.leaning corner.crack on ‘back’ (E) side of Punters Pinnacle. Finish on R wall.

Variant start to 'Rush'.

Start as for 'Rush'. Blast over bulge and continue up the wall.

Start as for 'Rush'. When you arrive at the bulge, move up right diagonally until you reach above the chimney.

Access and descent from the top of the main cliff is to the right.

Access and descent from the top of the main cliff is to the right.

Access and descent from the top of the main cliff is to the right.

Access and descent from the top of the main cliff is to the right.

Access and descent from the top of the main cliff is to the right.

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A slabby face with a steep headwall just down and right from the main cliff. Used mainly for abseiling, and occasionally top-roping, by commercial instruction groups as it gives a more interesting abseil experience than Punters main face. From the saddle just to the right of the main face follow a pad south along the Halls Gap side of the ridge for 80m to some abseil anchors at the top of the right hand end of the face. Can also be approached from the Fyans Creek track, or by heading down right from the foot of the main face.

This is a small bouldering wall with only three problems - but all high quality. Walk to Punter's Pinnacle. Then head up and right along the ridge for about 200m. It is east facing - away from Halls Gap.

Sit start and climb the wall via the discontinuous crack. A good problem.

Sit start and make a huge rockover to get the obvious crimp. Finish more easily. All about the timing and positioning.

Sit start and climb the wall via crimps and pockets. Nice moves.

A small very accessible wall overlooking the Delleys carpark that has occasionally been used for abseiling and top roping. It is on the backside of the Wing Wall bouldering area.

A short clean face near the left hand end of the cliff. Up past 2 FHs to reach the lower offs.

Start 2m right of Capitol Gains. At the second FH move right to finish up the juggy rib. Lower offs.

There are 2 obvious deep lines on the cliff [you can see them from the carpark]. The left one.

Start 1.5m right of WOIB. Steep start then easier.

Between the two main lines there is a crack with a steep start.

The deep right hand line. Start from the lower tier.

Start halfway along the short wall at the base of the cliff right of Charny Carny. Up past a FH to the ledge. Pull through the bulge and up the face past two more FHs to lower offs.

A couple of nice, but very short, crack routes

The short corner at the left end of the outcrop has an unexpectedly tricky finish.

Start as for Time Out. At the ledge move left into the hanging crack and up.

Take the blocky line 4m right of the Naughty Corner to a ledge on the arete. Up the thin crack to the top of the block.

Compact wall that is a good beginner's alternative to Punters Pinnacle, although not as high.

The northern most line. A bouldery start up past a fixed hanger. Micro cams and 2 more fixed hangers.

2.7m R of O.T.N. Straight up the line past 2 fixed hangers with micro cams along the way. Finish R of the large boulder.

A nice climb. Start 1m R of H.A.V. From the highest point of the flake pull onto the wall and up veering slightly R past a fixed hanger. Finish up the headwall r of HAV's finish. Good micro's and wires.

Another nice climb. 1.3m R of I.M below the undercut ledge. Place some good micro's above the mantle before doing it. Straight up over the mantle passing good wires, more micro's and a fixed hanger.

Stays independent. 1.5m R of U.G. (immediately R of the undercut ledge). Straight up past 2 low bolts with Micros for the rest.

The best climb on this little cliff. Start 3.3m R of U.G. below 2 horizontal cracks that are just above head height. Pull up through these past a good medium cam and clip the first hanger. Straight up the wall past another hanger with micro's and wires found along the way. NB: Grade is dependent on your height. If you are taller than 5'7" subtract a grade or 2.

Start 2m R of M.H.P. below a "diving board' at head height which in turn is below a shallow scoop. Clip the first hanger and then pull humourously onto the diving board. Clip the second hanger and pull up into the scoop. From here straight up past good small wires and micro cams. A third hanger protects the top.

Start 2m R of Mr. Siegel below a short R facing corner that stops 1m from the ground. Clip the first hanger and then boulder steeply onto the wall above the corner. Straight up passing 2 more hangers.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Easy access but most of the climbs are very mossy. Some of them would clean up to be good routes.

Takes the line following the distinctive right leading arch/overhang. Sustained and thin. The best outing on the cliff. Possibly originally aided sometime in the past.

1. 30m 19 Undercling up and out R [old peg runner]. Climb more easily up the corner above to the cave under the final arch.

2. 20m 10. Up and off R, or step L and follow diagonal up L.

RH Finish: Kelvin Longhurst, Ian Ravenscroft (alt) mid 1980s. LH Finish: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns. (alt) 13.3.89

The next line to the R. A steep layback start.

1. 25m 19. The line to the ledge with a tree.

2. 20m 9. Easy slabby wall.

The next line to the R. Dirty.

1. 25m 17. Up the line to where final thin moves lead to a bushy ledge and tree.

2. 20m Easy slabby wall to top.

The next line R is also very dirty. Good moves to start then easing. Curve R to finish at tree.

L leaning flake crack at RH end of cliff. From ledge walk off R or go up little corner above.

A landmark huge block with a few interesting crack routes.

The following 3 routes start above lip of roof. Set trad anchor from above and rap in.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

The relatively short slab below the huge block. Ledge above can be vacated from by traversing right and around to below 'Time Warp'.

Below Boulder Rock is a short wall leading up to below overhangs. The crack up this wall then traverse around R to below Time Warp.

Access by walking around right of Boulder Rock (faint trails), then scramble left onto boulders and blocks for base of routes.

Takes the line with a steep thin start L of Time Warp. Looks much harder than 17 and unprotected.

The steep dogleg offwidth crack is quite a struggle. Take BD 3s and 4s.

1. 18m Straight up the crack, through bulges, then onto a small stance.

2. 7m Up easy rock to the top.

Short walls on back of block

Easy access up the back of block. Large corner with bulges on easy terrain. Good for setting up anchors at top and for abseil/top rope access to cliff.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Another small cliff with easy access from Halls Gap