Noeuds dans Mt Ku-ring-gai

The area was rediscovered by Rod Wills in late 2003 although a couple of manky carrots were found at a couple of locations on Motocross wall. Rod and his cousin Vanessa started development at Fossil wall and moved north. The area has been set up well with few scary clips and would suit budding leaders. There are also enough harder routes to keep climbers entertained and potential for new lines.

Drive to the end of Beaumont Road, Mount Kuring-gai and park. See location map for various wall locations.

Midges!!! Make sure you pack your insect repellent otherwise you will levae looking like you have chicken pox. The Midge season is from November to April but you may find them outside these times.

This wall is located 5 minute walk down hill from parking area. Easy climbs on good rock, if you're climbing sub 20's this is the area for you.

The foot of the wall is heavily covered in ferns but the climbs are worth the small bush bash at the base. There are occasionally leeches but Aeroguard keeps them away.

The first two climbs start on the descent gully wall.

2.5m L of VTV. Up past 2 RB finishing at same anchors as VTV. One move wonder.

Up short wall. 2 RB's to lower offs.

Start: Just right of descent gully.

Up thin face. 2 RB's to lower offs.

Start: Left most climb on the main wall

Straight up over two breaks. Add a grade if you're short. 2RB's to lower offs.

Start: 2m right of CO

Follow crimpy breaks to slab. 3RB's to lower offs.

Start: 1m right of PP

Hard start up pockets then tending right over bulge. 3RB's to lower offs.

Start: 2m right of RTRR

First route at Mt K. Up pockets to follow diagonal break over bulge. Pumpier than it looks. 3 RB's to lower offs.

Start: 2m right of TMHM

Diagonal line of bolts. Short but stout. 3RB's to lower off.

Start: 7m right of CUATAOTWWW

Start: 3m right of 'Open project', for a more interesting start, and finish on Political Prisoner. 3 bolts to start, and an extra bolt along the way mean that the sports bunnies can now be spared the need for trad gear. However trad gear will prevent some ground falls.Suggest single set of cams from 0.5 to 4 .

Up splitter crack. 4RB's to lower offs. Equipped by Vanessa.

Start: 2m right of PPP

Rising traverse following ledge/break/crack all the way to finish anchors for 'Ruddock the Ring Wraith'. Done in two pitches, belay at Captain Underpants.

Start: As for 'Legoland'

A good route for people starting to lead as all the bolts are easy to clip. Up obvious line of several ledges. 4RB's to lower offs.

Start: 15m right of PPP

A good link up (or escape from UM crux). Up as for UM then step left after mantle at 3rd bolt, to finish up 'Legoland'. 4RB's to lower offs.

Start: As for 'Unguarded Moment'.

Great technical climbing up improbable line. Up slabby face to mantle, stepping rIght to crux move over bulge. Harder if you're short. 4RBs to lower offs.

Start: 2m right of 'Legoland'.

Approx 15m high slab on the left end with short steep 8-10 metre section on the right hand end.

Step left at 2nd bolt then up. 4 RB's to lower offs

Start: Start as for CFZ

Left side of slab. 3 RB's to lower offs.

Start: Left side of slab.

Up centre of wall left side of obvious feature. 3 RB's to lower offs

Start: 3m rt of CFZ

Up centre of wall on right side of obvious feature.4RB's to lower offs.

Start: 2m rt of EA.

Start: Same start as for John Doe, clip 1st bolt and head left and up. Jane is better than John.

Starting off boulder, right side of cave, tending straight up out of cave.2 RB's to lower offs

Steep start to slabby finish, lowers offs over ledge. 2 RB's to shared lower offs (or walk off).

Start: 8m rt of Pr.

Steep start to slabby finish, lowers offs over ledge. 2 RB's to shared lower offs (or walk off).

Start: 2m rt of WIAE.

Long broken wall of approx 100 metres in length, ranging in height from 10-15 metres. From slab to roofs its got it all.

Staight up face on wall directly after access gully. 4RB's. Top out, belay off trees at the top.

Start: In walk down gully.

Up over two ledges to face and crux. 4RB's to lower offs.

Start: 15m rt of TG on next prominant wall.

Up left side of cave onto tricky face. 4RB's to lower offs.

Start: 2m rt of ENFSG

Hard start. Up right side of slab over small rooflet and onto slab. 4RB's to lower offs.

Start: 1m R of DMD

Up corner block through break over roof. Will it ever get repeated? 2RB's to shared lower offs with LOH.

Start: 2m rt of LOH.

Up corner crack (RB), then to up easy corner, placing gear if neeeded.

Start: At corner rt of PW.

Boulder up face left of corner crack, step across right to face. Then easily up slab to hard finish. Bridging in the corner up high only gets you 15. 3RB's to lower offs.

Start: As for ADNM

A line of old rusty carrots half-way along the wall between "Fossilized thought" and "Open Project".

The key 3rd bolt seems to be missing.

Very bouldery steep start out through low roof to easier headwall to lip below upper cave

Finger crack lay-back onto slab. From the ledge acquire overhanging arete (height specific) then up to RB lower off.

Over bulge, onto slab then thin face. RB's to lower offs.

Start: Start middle of next face around arete.

Start 3m R of RC on the obvious crack. Up to Ledge, and then hit the wall and enjoy some big moves on some nice small crimps, finishing on DRB’s on headwall.

Start just left of SoP.

1. Up to ledge. Walk left along ledge to corner.

2. Up corner

Start: Start on bulging ramp about 1.5m left of Pinkie Shredder. Up ramp jump or power to big hole, and then fire up and left on small crimps and bad footers. Classic.

Straight up large obvious splitter crack.

Start: On the next wall

Bouldery start up prow then onto thin techy face. 4RB's to lower offs

Start: 1m R of PS.

Crimpy classic by all accounts. Bouldery start over bulge onto face. 5RB's to lower offs.

Start: 2m rt of TDI

Up wall and arete, 3 Rb's to lower offs.

Start: 2m rt of H.

Gundah Ridge trail was hazard reduction burnt up to 50m downhill (west) in Oct 16. Moto Cross wall and possibly other nearby areas therefore have burnt trees, fire debris and reduced understory vegetation. Avoid eroding sandy tracks and unvegetated areas.

Start in grotto/cave thing left of 'Goofy Foot', onto the ledge, up into the crack, which is fists through the roof followed by an awkward mantle and then up small gulley tending left over boulders to top.

Be careful as rock quality is poor and gear may pull. Respect the X rating, it is a hand full of sand climb.

#4's is helpful and watch out for rope drag.

First Ascensionist was Colin Larter originally gave it Aid grade 15A2

Up right side of "cave" through jug to top.

Start: 2m rt of GG

8m R of GF. Over ledge through middle of "wave" shaped wall. One move Crux weird and high dependent.

Start as for open project, (cam in break if needed) then traverse right across slab (RB) to corner crack then easily up to lower offs.

Direct start to MR, straight up crack, lower offs at the top.

Gundah Ridge trail was hazard reduction burnt up to 50m downhill (west) in Oct 16. Moto Cross wall and possibly other nearby areas therefore have burnt trees, fire debris and reduced understory vegetation. Avoid eroding sandy tracks and unvegetated areas.

1m R of G. Up through rooflet to shallow corner.

The slab to the small bulging crack line.

Start: 5m past cave

Up through some very hard territory in the middle of the cave. Still needs another bolt.

Start: Middle of cave

Up face and left side of weakness. 3U's to lower offs.

Up orange face and weakness. 4RB's to lower offs.

Start: 5m rt of GGAS

It is apparent there is significant evidence of aboriginal occupation in some of the caves of this area, if you chance upon a cave full of shells, or any other clear indication of previous use do not disturb it. Tread lightly as with any bush area you visit and access issues will not develop.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It is apparent there is significant evidence of aboriginal occupation in some of the caves of this area, if you chance upon a cave full of shells, or any other clear indication of previous use do not disturb it. Tread lightly as with any bush area you visit and access issues will not develop.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It is apparent there is significant evidence of aboriginal occupation in some of the caves of this area, if you chance upon a cave full of shells, or any other clear indication of previous use do not disturb it. Tread lightly as with any bush area you visit and access issues will not develop.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It is apparent there is significant evidence of aboriginal occupation in some of the caves of this area, if you chance upon a cave full of shells, or any other clear indication of previous use do not disturb it. Tread lightly as with any bush area you visit and access issues will not develop.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

One of the best areas at MtK with good rock to 20m height. Also features a great outlook over 'Berowra' creek.

Up middle of orange streak on great rock and holds. 2 U's to lower offs

Start: 'Access' is gained by walking around to left under chossy roof at far left of crag. Scramble up to top of block. Alternatively solo up chimney but it's harder than the route.

Stick clip 1st bolt and launch out and up, to finish as for SBOPL. Dont blow second clip as could result in a grounder. 2 U's to lower offs.

Start: 2m R of SBOPL

Up middle of face to lower offs at halfway. 2 RB's to lower offs.

Start: On the next face.

Extension to LV, continuing straight up the face. 6RB's to lower offs

Start: 'Extension' to LV,straight up

Through roof then step left to arete and up before traversing out right across lip of cave and up to anchors. Start: 3m R of LV under roof.

Up to RH face to thread/bollard runner, step left across corner/crack to 1st bolt (hidden from ground - long draw). Follow juggy step face to anchors. 5RB's to lower offs.

Start: 5m rt of DA

Up corner crack/crack, under roof, finish at anchors for TDCOM. Be wary of loose rock when pulling on rock, belayer should wear a helmet.

Start: As for NWOL

Up middle face tending right at start through fun pumpy moves down low. Intially bolted by Rod who eventually admitted defeat and gave it to Vanessa. 8 RB's to lower offs.

Start: 3m R of TAG

Up stepped arete to sit down rest. Blast up and right past a dynamic move to reach scoop and up beautiful orange face. 6U's to lower offs.

Start: 6m R of TDCOM

Straight up right side of orange face and scoop to finish as for VM. 5U's to lower offs.

Start: 3m R of VM

Up corner/crack

Start: 1m R of MC

Straight up face btw coner and cave. 4RB's to lowers

Start: 1m R of THG

Start in cave, swing up and out of cave then up crack. Very little protection for top half.

Start: 2m L of Peruvian Love Child.

Up left side of shorter wall, 2m right of cave. 2RB's to lower offs.

Start: 4m R of KAMU

Up juggy crack in middle of shorter wall.

Start: 4m rt of PLC.

Up thin face past pockets. 2 RB's to lower offs.

Start: 3m R of Pb

Pocket to edge then up jugs, nice moves. Add a grade if you're short. 2 RB's to lower offs.

Start: 3m R of CIC

Mainly Sport climbing sector on the way to lost and found, easy moderate grades.

Straight up blunt arete

2 meters right of arete, up face left of v groove to anchors

Start at ground level, (not on access ramp) tending slightly right on face over short slab to anchors.

Up left side of slab

Up middle of slab tending right to shared anchors

Up rt side of slab tending left to shared anchors

Right side of face tending right to shared anchors

Up middle of face tending left to shared anchors

Up right side of face on big holds to anchors

Up Blunt arete

Left side of wall, move right at top to shared anchors with 5sob

Bouldery start with jugs all the way to anchors. Take a grade or two off depending on the size of the cheat cairn you use.

Same start as 5sob, tend right up to anchor left of crack

Burly start onto face and balance past bulge to anchors.

Slap up overlap at start onto pumpy face to anchors

Steep start onto flake,big moves to gain face and up.

Straight up steepish start onto face and anchors.

Steep fun start onto arete, end of wall right side

Next of of climbs 50m past cave at same level

Up face just left of orange face to anchors above bulge.