Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Dim 14 Avr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | ★ Bon | ||||
Nice lead tick. Much more fun on lead than toprope... being thoughtful, careful and safe made it a very different climb. Late in the day and did a pretty average job placing gear, but climbed pretty comfortably
|
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19 Difficile | ★★ The Prince | 33m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Tricky 19, not at all how it looks from the ground.
Lead the second pitch (at grade ~12?) okay.
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14 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Had no problem with the roof, but took ages to get up the headwall above the ledge (to the mini ledge below the chimney). Ended up using a bit of rock stuck in a pile of mud as the crux hold, yuck. Top half okay, bottom half great, middle yuck.
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Sam 7 Oct. 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | |||||
First climb at the moon. super enjoyable climbing on some amazing rock. Entertaining watching Jack squeeze his way up the (optional) offwidth
|
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13 |
★★ Gargoyle P1
1
13
40m
| 40m | |||||
P1 then into funk
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Ven 1 Sept 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle - avec Nathan Stringfellow | 40m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Great view, average climb. Earns its grade solely for a tricky top out up the crack.
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16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | ★ Bon | ||||
Some nice moves, some awkward moves, some nice rock, some big loose blocks. Worth a star for the view and the rap. Not sold on the climb. The face climbing to the left (no named route) was more pleasant, at least until the bad rock. Maybe one grade harder.
|
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Sam 20 Mai 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle | 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Funk finish, so P1 only.
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Lun 24 Avr 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle | 40m | |||||
Knees are still sore from those mantles
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Dim 9 Avr 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle - avec Uday Sharma | 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Very cool if you don't mind some mantles. The end is commiting and exciting actually!
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Sam 19 Nov. 2022 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | Practice with a View | 35m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Some brittle rock and an exciting finale.
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Sam 1 Oct. 2022 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ The Prince | 33m | |||||
Tough but fun but couldn’t stick the last crux, bailed to arete.
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Sam 20 Août 2022 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
17 14 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution - avec JakeSouthen | 35m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Started lead. Got to the roof crack. Climb got mega spicey for the grade and I bailed. Definitely hard for the grade. 16-18???
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16 | ★★ Tim Tam - avec Kate Proctor | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Classic? I reckon. Also.. easier than corkscrew
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17 14 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution - avec Kate Proctor | 35m | ★ Bon | ||||
What the hell even is this! Should be 17 lol. The only route I got on for the weekend that actually felt proper sandbagged. Everything else feels similar to araps for grading
|
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19 | ★★ The Prince - avec Kate Proctor | 33m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Seriously enjoyed this one. Easy climbing into a pretty muscly sequence through the roof easing to more east climbing. Hell yeh
|
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Dim 14 Août 2022 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 |
★★ Gargoyle
- avec
Jayde Babi
1
11
20m
2
13
20m
| 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Fun stuff
|
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Ven 22 Avr 2022 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tim Tam - avec Timothy Tan | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
First hand jam 🤚
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Mer 16 Mars 2022 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Very fun, some good moves right at the end to the rap chains, and a few commiting moves
|
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Mar 22 Fév 2022 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle | 40m | |||||
did it all in one pitch, taking the right diagonal crack to finish: think it's funk
|
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Dim 24 Oct. 2021 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Fun single pitch with the roof crack making very engaging crux for a 14
|
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Sam 18 Sept 2021 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Funk | 16m | |||||
Bit of a sandbag
|
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Lun 13 Sept 2021 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
17 | ★★ Apehanger | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Very very cool
|
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15 14 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Pretty stiff for 14, but that’s just Moonarie I guess
|
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Dim 2 Mai 2021 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle | 40m | |||||
Ran both pitches together and understood why it was listed in two pitches, quite a rope drag.
|
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16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
The high quantity of loose rock made every move that big more uncomfortable. Take care if 16 is your grade limit as this was somewhat of a sandbag!
|
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Lun 26 Avr 2021 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle - avec Claudine Cheah | 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Linked both pitches.
|
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Dim 8 Nov. 2020 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | |||||
Punchy for 16!
|
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Ven 30 Oct. 2020 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle - avec Jan Ringlehan | 40m | ★ Bon | ||||
Nothing all that special for the Gargoyle.
|
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17 | ★★ Apehanger - avec Jan Ringelhan | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Magnificent moves. Roof crack climbing at its best! Cannot believe it gets zero stars **
|
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Sam 10 Oct. 2020 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Funk | 16m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Steep but easy and good pro.
|
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Jeu 1 Oct. 2020 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution - avec Deni | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Felt tougher than 14, probably would have been easier with doubles in cams 0.75 to 2 and maybe a bit of offwidthing skill for the top.
|
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Lun 20 Juil 2020 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
This climb has a really nice rhythm!
|
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Mer 15 Juil 2020 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Fantastic climbing, quite out there
|
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13 | ★★ Gargoyle | 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Great fun climbing with a nice sunny belay and exciting finish
|
|||||||
Lun 6 Juil 2020 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tim Tam - avec Raife Gehren | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Fun climbing broken by rest ledges.
|
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Dim 22 Sept 2019 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tim Tam - avec Mati | 30m | ★ Bon | ||||
Funky climbing more reminiscent of a Blueies sports route than what I expected from Moonarie. Rock didn't seem great though.
|
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16 14 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution - avec Mati | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
First climb at Moonarie. Really nice and varied. Maybe harder than its neighbour, Tim Tam.
|
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Dim 19 Mai 2019 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
The term sandbagged comes to mind but what an awesome route!
|
|||||||
19 | ★★ The Prince | 33m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Beautiful first pitch!
|
|||||||
14 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution | 35m | ★ Bon | ||||
Maybe I missed something but definitely climbed more like an 18 to me
|
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Ven 26 Avr 2019 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle | 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Classy at the grade
|
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Mer 24 Avr 2019 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 12 | Supercrack - avec Raife Gehren, Olivia | 25m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Strenuous moves off ledge at start of the main crack, probably harder than 12 but eases off after this. Initially a decent line but the rock quality deteriorates by the end.
|
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13 |
★★ Gargoyle
- avec
Matthew Robbins
1
| 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Linked with funk crack
|
|||||||
Mar 23 Avr 2019 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ The Prince - avec Cameron Hickling | 33m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
night climb
|
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Lun 22 Avr 2019 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Funk - avec Robert Brooks | 16m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Awesome little crack. Suprisingly pumpy with some tricky gear placements due to being off centre from the crack.
|
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Dim 21 Avr 2019 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ The Prince | 33m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Nice Lead by Tom.
|
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16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Doesn't get much sweeter!
|
|||||||
Dim 30 Sept 2018 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle | 40m | ★ Bon | ||||
led the first pitch, not that great really. Was pretty much climbing in all the clothes I brought because of the gale-force winds! Rapping was an adventure of its own.
|
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Dim 15 Avr 2018 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle - avec Shaleen Patel, Mike Ashelford, Rebecca Mabbott | 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Rpt.
|
|||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle - avec Rebecca Mabbott, Adrian Kladnig, Shaleen Patel | 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Almost got Bec to jam!!
|
|||||||
Mar 3 Avr 2018 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Hunky Dory - avec Cameron Hickling | 35m | ★ Bon | ||||
Struggled a lot following the first pitch, and led the second pitch which was around grade 15
|
|||||||
Mer 4 Oct. 2017 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Nice hand crack with an awkward roof move, then completely different above the ledge, with a difficult to protect mantle leading to an off-width, with enough face holds to keep it sane. Cams up to BD #3 useful, with doubles in #1-2. A #4 may have been able to protect the mantle move. Possibly a little sandbagged.
|
|||||||
19 | ★★ The Prince | 33m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Surprisingly tricky moves up the ramp under the roof, the a definite crux getting up the (fused shut) flake above. Cams to BD #2. Done as one pitch.
|
|||||||
Mar 3 Oct. 2017 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Lovely hand jamming with frequent rest stances, and a thrutchy finish.
|
|||||||
Lun 2 Oct. 2017 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 |
★★ Gargoyle
- avec
Mick Starkey
1
2
| 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Linked the two pitches. Cool moves past the gargoyle!
|
|||||||
Mer 29 Juil 2015 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
15 14 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution - avec Geoff | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Takes plenty of big gear. I used a BD 5 cam to make the move rightwards easier to stomach. No need to get inside the squeeze chimney, just climb up outside it. Good to knock this one off after retreating last time.
|
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16 | ★★ Tim Tam - avec Geoff | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Finish was unexpectedly challenging. Good route. 30m abseil from chains at top.
|
|||||||
Mer 23 Avr 2014 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tim Tam - avec Marc-Oliver Beerman | 30m | ★ Bon | ||||
nice little overhang
|
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Lun 21 Avr 2014 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ The Prince - avec Marc-Oliver Beerman | 33m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
nice start up corner crack
challenging under cling to sustained face to next pitch
2nd pitch juggy ok
|
|||||||
Lun 7 Oct. 2013 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Funk | 16m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
I think this is what I finished on after starting gargoyle
|
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Ven 10 Mai 2013 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Hunky Dory - avec Rob | 35m | ★ Bon | ||||
With Robdoggie. Lordy thats a tough little unit for the grade
|
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Sam 27 Avr 2013 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution - avec Anton, Sam | 35m | |||||
Good times through the roof, then couldn't stomach the move right to the wide crack. Protection seemed too low to prevent hitting the ledge. Ended up traversing left to Supercrack with my tail between my legs!
|
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Jeu 25 Avr 2013 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle - avec Anton, Sam | 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
As expected, the first climb of the trip brings you back to the reality of Moonarie grades!
|
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14 | ★★ Gargoyle - avec Cameron | 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
With Cameron. Cool moves past the Gargoyle. Stiff for the grade.
|
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Ven 5 Avr 2013 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
My first lead fall ... still a very nice, enjoyable route.
|
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Ven 27 Avr 2012 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | |||||
A second ascent to collect the gear at the top.
|
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16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Always a favourite.
|
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Mar 26 Avr 2011 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Good fun, well protected.
|
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Sam 23 Avr 2011 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Hunky Dory | 35m | ★ Bon | ||||
The crux move is very height dependent. I found it quite hard, maybe 19?
|
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16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Repeated climb. Still nice! Seconded by Liz & Lynne.
|
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19 | ★★ The Prince | 33m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Nice! Quality first pitch. Seconded by Lynne.
|
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14 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution | 35m | ★ Bon | ||||
Led straight through. The last mantle was tricky and hard to protect...
|
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Dim 3 Oct. 2010 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle | 40m | ★ Bon | ||||
Fun around the gargoyle.
|
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Lun 26 Oct. 2009 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution | 35m | ★ Bon | ||||
I felt like popping a few corks after topping out. Got too far in top chimney/crack/body offwidth...
|
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Sam 16 Mai 2009 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Hunky Dory | 35m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Worth 2 stars
|
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Dim 27 Juil 2008 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle | 40m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
A fun set of mantles up to a steep hand jam. Quite technical for the grade.
|
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14 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
a good single pitch
|
|||||||
14 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution | 35m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Given I don't like hand jams or offwidths, the fact that I rate this climb just goes to show how good this line is. Great fun climbing and an easy way to lose skin.
|
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Sam 26 Juil 2008 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle | 40m | ★ Bon | ||||
did this with chiarma. nice introduction to the moon!
|
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13 | ★★ Gargoyle | 40m | ★ Bon | ||||
first c;limb at moonarie! bomba!
|
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Sam 5 Mai 2007 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
15 | Camilla Parker Bowles | 20m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Awkward escaping the big horizontal, better to not go in.
|
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14 | ★ Funk | 16m | Pas la peine | ||||
The poorest rock I've seen on Gargoyle Wall.
|
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19 | ★★ The Prince | 33m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
A touch spicy.
|
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Sam 7 Avr 2007 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle | 40m | ★ Bon | ||||
Just a quick self-belay to finish the day.
|
|||||||
19 | ★★ The Prince | 33m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
An easy touch by Moonarie standards?
|
|||||||
Sam 23 Sept 2006 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle | 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Interesting jamming out the final crack. A stiff 13.
|
|||||||
Ven 25 Août 2006 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution | 35m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
seconded JS up this one
|
|||||||
Jeu 27 Avr 2006 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle | 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Ran both pitches together. Great route to work on your mantling technique.
|
|||||||
Sam 8 Avr 2006 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle | 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Good route,hard for 13!
|
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Mar 1 Mars 2005 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Hunky Dory | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
great 2nd pitch
|
|||||||
Dim 11 Avr 2004 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | Rubbery Under Arms | 35m | Pourrie | ||||
Think old-school. Think moss. Think loose blocks. Think horrible thrutching. Think dubious route description. Think Rubbery Under Arms. Think of another climb to do.
|
|||||||
Sam 10 Avr 2004 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | ★ Bon | ||||
Awkward enough, well led by Limmo.
|
|||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle | 40m | ★ Bon | ||||
with Caroline
|
|||||||
Ven 9 Avr 2004 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
12 | Supercrack | 25m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Only one jam of note, but avoidable.
|
|||||||
2004 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution | 35m | ★ Bon | ||||
Followed Jase up. Committing overhang for grade
|
|||||||
Sam 13 Sept 2003 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ The Prince | 33m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Very pumpy at the start with a committing finish on blown arms
|
|||||||
Mar 1 Avr 2003 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Funk | 16m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
I'm guessing by the absence of chalk that this is a seldon climbed route.
|
|||||||
2003 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
kate onsight I came up afterward.
|
|||||||
Mar 1 Oct. 2002 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution | 35m | ★ Bon | ||||
Thas a really hard move half way up, which was fun watching other people do, but not much fun when I finally tried it!
|