Nympho Buttress Principalement Escalade traditionnelle 20 voies en falaise

Start: The square dot furtherest left at the crag.

Easy start (gear up the crack) and easy finish (no gear), with a dynamic crux in the middle, passing 2 FHs & a bolt (shared with IHAIP), to chains on tree above.

Good for a warm up.

Start: At the dot below the crack, around the arête from IHAIP.

Up easy pillar and into tricky corner with thoughtful protection. Left through roof & up R of the belay tree (CT & IHAIP), then into nice finger crack with good gear. Chains on tree. Needs a cool head down low.

Start: The dot in the shallow L facing corner a few metres R of OIW.

Up the very blank L trending corner to the top of the pillar. The name says it all.

Rap chains at top.

Start: The dot just R of the small All Hands On Dick pillar.

An acrobatic little number. Up the crack line (gear) to the first bolt 7-8m up, then up passing 2 more BRs, (don’t despair at the overhang, but locate the hidden pocket), then 5 FHs to chains at top.

Shares chains with UFG.

Start: just Right of ARFE - the middle dot (in the alcove).

Fairly easy for the grade; two hard moves. Up trending R following the flakes & cracks into the cave. One BR, the rest is trad.

Shares chains with ARFE.

Start below cave – the RH dot in the alcove below the FH.

Up on good flakes & gear to the pillar, up to the FH, then bold moves above the FH (no more gear) thru the overhang & into the cave. Belay chains on left.

One of Australia’s classic climbs, but only for the chosen few.

1. 27m 17 - Start below cave – the RH dot in the alcove below the FH. Up on good flakes & gear to the pillar, then bold moves above the FH (no more gear) thru the overhang & into the cave. Belay chains on left.

2. 24m 24 - Start in L facing corner, then up R onto sloping ledge 12m up (gear), then out L over bulge (more gear), then up - follow the under-clinging flake out L to trad belay.

3. 27m 22 - Continue up manky crack to top.

1. Straight up the shallow corner thru dodgy, slippery rock to the Left trending flake and same belay as for pitch 2 of the original route.

NB: gear runs out & potential for ground fall till next gear is reached in the upper flake.

"Start: The white line in the buttress. Start Right of Deep Purple.

1. 30m - Up, Left and up.

2. 37m - Start in back of cave, peg out under roof, then up the white line.

3. 15m - Last 15m free climbing.

"Superb climbing and positions - the best on the buttress."

RURP July/August 1972

(unfortunately neither Ron nor Tony can recall exactly where the route exited the cave or went from there.)

Quoted from RURP:

1. "Free up 6m, then peg up corner for 9m, move Right and up to another ledge.

2. "Continue up line to another ledge.

3. "Finish up Left line - free the last 12m.

"Good mixed climbing up a fine line."

RURP July/August 1972

(Ron cannot recall the details of this route, but I would suggest that it is Right of the cave.)

Start: Faint dot on the rock a few metres R of the above alcove.

1. 45m 25 - Up thin sloping slab onto overhanging bulge & BR 5m up. Another sloping easy slab, then past left-hand side of crack. Climb right passing another BR, up some hairy moves and into cave. Now the business gets serious: Up the blunt arête passing several BRs to thin crux before the belay.

2. 20m - Up left corner with good jugs and gear, to horizontal ledge half-way up this pitch. Move right off this and up into the crack to top.

Rap chains at top.

Start: A Trick Of The Light.

1. Up ATOTL pitch 1 to belay.

2. 20m - head straight up the crack-line, where ATOTL p2 veers left, between Spanish Dancer & ATOTL.

Start: The painted dot a few metres right of ATOTL.

The quality of the rock leaves something to be desired in places, but the climb well and truly makes up for it. Can be done easily in 2 Pitches, 1st chain on P1 is for raping down; second chains are much more comfortable for belaying.

1. 45m __

2. 20m __

Start: At the dot (marked HA & BE) below the shallow cave – a few metres R of SD.

1. 45m __ - Scramble up to below the cave (with gear), then up thin crack on orange sloping slab, following the FHs.

2. 20m __ – Up the crack above the chains. Place gear as high as possible so you don’t damage the beautiful Grass tree if you fall – besides, it’s hard to get the spikes out of your backside.

Start: As for Hidden Agenda.

Up the crack below the cave, up to a bulge, and onto the arête, passing the cave. Short traverse right onto the bulge and up a hard layback. Follow the crack and face to top.