Ascensions dans Australian Capital Territory par Paul Frothy Thomson

6m of original climbing in 25m (you are mostly just climbing Loosen Up Children the whole way), and 3m of that is ludicrously contrived to avoid touching anything on the 21. Sure, the 3m of original, uncontrived climbing up the brief finger-crack is okay, but 3m of new route doesn't warrant anything more than "average" no matter how good it is. I totally misread the crux (I tried to finger lock it directly, only to discover that my fingers don't fit in the crack), but couldn't be arsed giving this another lap for the tick. All the independent bolts on this route are about 50cm higher than they should be.

I'm trying to think of something good to say about this route, and coming up blank... I guess the moss-carpet climbing was hilarious in the same way that running the tough-mudder coarse is? Sharp, fragile, mossy and dirty. Yeah... No.

I wouldn't have gotten on this if Jenga -intent on ticking the dry parts of the crag in a day- hadn't chucked a lap up it, and come down singing its praises. I started up the steep (juggy) start of the 24 to the right (to avoid the ledge doddle at the start of this route) and moved left into the lower steep-crux of this route, which makes a much more sustained pitch. The steepness is negotiated far easier than expected, and the slab proved surprisingly more demanding than anticipated. The final moves had me holding my breath.

2nd Shot. Short but damned punchy. The moves are excitingly bouldery and tenuous, but the rock is average at best. It's seriously not over until you clip the anchors.

Also quite stop-start, but much more consistantly sustained (if a touch contrived at times). The insecure lower arete crux was heartstopping with the constant spray of rain blowing onto it, but was a great technical testpiece. The more bouldery upper half (especially the final crux to the anchors) was dry, and offers an excellent burly contrast to what has come before.

The first half is an inoffensive doddle, but the upper half is great and improbable climbing up a strangely intimidating looking steep face. Great moves once you get past the first (unnecessary) set of anchors.

The bottom half of this was quite wet, but even the inherent slipperiness was no impediment to enjoying this beauty. Sure, it's quite stop-start, but the rock is immaculate, and the degree of variety is improbable. This is a real test of a climbers range of ability at the grade.

Wow. Bold. When this started raining at it's most runout (and still difficult) section, I got the most scared I've been in years. VERY spaced gear with some monster fall potential, and quite sustained between a few stances. The "2nd smallest" RP I got in to protect the crazy 6m runout above the first bolt was classic Psychological gear. Regardless of the boldness, the actual climbing is pretty good for a granite friction slab.

Pitch 3 (steep corner crack left of the prow) ONLY. Seconding Stephen. A great pitch in its own right. Enjoyable steep crack on good rock with some classic easy laybacking leading to some funky wideness and stemming. Even the upper "gardening" section to gain the Fiasco Rap Anchors isn't so bad. Well protected.

P1 only. The upper pitches were completely wet and unclimbable, and P1 was half under the "extended" water streak. A great climb with some bloody exciting runouts, made harder when half the holds are under water and thus unusable. A varied, old-school, wandery-but-logical ramble of a pitch. I broke off a hold right near the final mantle (after ALL that) and whipped onto the rusty bash-in carrot that I'd "clipped" with a wire.

Seconding Stephen. Might be a short novelty route, but this is quite worthwhile for an EOD "It's almost night!" lap. The start is intriguing with tricky gear, but this climb gets GOING when the flake ends. Stephen went right to gain the groove, I went straight up via much balancy thinness and thought the direct finish felt gr20, but with a relatively close proximity to the ground making potential falls a bit exciting.

Brilliant! Looks rubbish from the ground, but this is a stellar climb. Don't you DARE walk past it. I only brought a few runners, so I ended up having to make the top half ridiculously runout, but it kept it exciting and memorable. Don't think it's over once you've gained the slab (and the initial face moves aren't too hard). Unlike many granite slabs, I found this one varied and creative in it's movement. The ramp-corner-thing is great!

Seconding Stephen. Classic at the grade. Sustained, varied, low-angle with a million rests, and heaps of gear without needing anything bigger than a #3. A huge variety of styles present, and only a suitable amount of thrutching to keep it interesting. Seriously deserves more stars.

Exciting warmup! One of the best granite climbs at the grade I've ever done. Stonker, varied climbing with friction slabbing, crack moves, delicate seam-moves, and sparce protection through the hardest moves to make it exciting (but well protected everywhere else). This puppy EATS wires (with a distinctive "slurping" sound). Bomber rock, soaring line. I can't praise it enough.

With Stephen. Great climbing on all pitches, but a worrying amount of teetering rock on P1 and P3 prevents this from being classic. Onsight P1; Clean 2nd P2; and Onsight P3. I didn't find the "fang" on P1 particularly hard, but it was certainly great fun and rather improbable. P2 (via the correct crack in the middle of the face) is The Money, and quite sustained in a variety of styles with some outrageous climbing. P3 up the detached flake and onto the top of the slab is runout but easy awesome.

P2 only. The "no gear/bolts until you're past all the hard moves 7m up" opening (straight off the belay) is a bit exciting, but the actual slab climbing is pleasant and in an exposed position. The rock is a bit friable, unfortunately. The hardest moves are in the first few metres, solve the boulder problem, keep your head, and cruise your way to the gear. Worthwhile.

With Stephen. Onsight P1, P2 and P3 (linked); Clean 2nd P4; Made up my own pitch for P5 (I thought the normal finish looked a bit dull); and finished up Yellow Brick Road P2 for my "choose your own adventure" final pitch. P1 - P3 made a logical link, with some fun moves on each pitch, and the crux on P2 being intricate and exciting. P4 was a pleasant corner crack with more moves than you might expect. Can't comment on P5 & P6 of the original route.