Ascensions dans Australie par Paul Frothy Thomson

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Affichage de 1 - 100 sur 4,202 ascensions.

	Cotation	Voie	Style d'escalade	Qualité
Sam 11 Mai 2024 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave
	25	★ Juice on the Loose - avec Match	Sportive 12m, 9	★★ Excellent
2 Laps - just to the last bolt (24 to here) clean, as the last moves were dripping wet. Managed to punch this one out, sans chalk, placing draws, no worries whatsoever. Pretty chuffed with this, given that I haven't steep climbed in the 7 months since my accident. My core and calves felt it the next morning, though! This is my favourite of all the routes on the upper ledge.
	24 ~25	★ Chip and Jinx's Canine Adventures in Conveyancing - avec Match	Sportive 12m, 7	★★ Excellent
2 x Repeat attempts, not clean. Though I cruiiiiiiised the link from above the lower layback crux to the top, for whatever reason, the low-crux kicked my arse today, and felt grades harder than 24. The finale of this puppy is wild!
	21	★★ Thirty Three Years - avec Match	Sportive 15m, 7	★★ Excellent
Another repeat. A great way to access the upper tier of climbing here.
Dim 5 Mai 2024 - Blue Mountains
Lower Blue Mountains Falling Water Wall Lower Cliff
	26 Facile	★★★ Gaze a Gazely Stare	Trad 55m	★★★ Classique
2 laps on TRS for training. Trying to build some steep fitness again! Despite being bell-quality-rock, I just find this super steep pupper so much fun!
Sam 4 Mai 2024 - Blue Mountains
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Snake Cave
	23	★★ Shagohod - avec Philip Barker	Sportive 15m, 6	★★★ Classique
Repeat. Rather stop-start, but the upper moves are my favourite of the crag.
	22	★★ Sahelanthropus - avec Philip Barker	Sportive 14m, 6	★★★ Classique
Repeat. Absolutely cruised this. No way it was ever 23 (not sure what I was thinking?) Awesome technical climbing on weirdly good rock the whole way.
	21 ~21	★ Outer Haven - avec Philip Barker	Sportive 15m, 5	★ Bon
2 Laps. After a long morning working one of my upper mountains projects, this one felt hard today. Fun enough for what it is.
Mer 17 Avr 2024 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex
	21	FA ★★ Not Here to F$#k Spiders	Sportive 35m	★★ Excellent
2 laps to verify the route/quality. Really interesting, sustained, technical slabbing/face climbing. Now the easiest route to exit the crag with.
	24	★ Get a Black Dog Up Ya - avec Gavin	Sportive 35m, 17	★★ Excellent
Clean repeat. Much better than I remembered it (and much easier)! Essentially 2 boulders surrounded by easy climbing, but both boulders are rad. With some rope management, this is very achievable as a giant single pitch.
Dim 14 Avr 2024 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander
	28	★★ Water Hazard - avec Match	Sportive 36m	★★★ Classique
Repeat attempt, not clean today. Just the one lap for fitness and to re-remember the beta for Match . I was pretty happy to put together the entirety of the upper crux section with minimal hassle, years after I was last on this. Amazing climbing from about the 5th bolt up!
Sam 13 Avr 2024 - Blue Mountains
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Snake Cave
	23	FA ★★ Shagohod	Sportive 15m, 6	★★ Excellent
I really enjoyed this, but its probably not for everyone. Went really easily today, so its probably not as hard as I thought it was. A really funky, fun, steep finale with some very weird moves
	21 ~21	★ Outer Haven	Sportive 15m, 5	★ Bon
Repeat. As I said before, if you stay out of the cave, this is actually quite fun, and the crux is enjoyable.
Jeu 4 Avr 2024 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander
	27	★ Nadir - avec Match	Sportive 36m	★ Bon
Finally decided to suss this route to the top. The moves to gain and turn the lip are mega, and the grey-rock face climbing above involves some complex and gripping sequences for a first ground-up lap. Probably the most annoying part for me, is having to lap the lower 24 section of this route to get to the hard bit
	27	★★ Kaizen - avec Match	Sportive 38m	★★ Excellent
Clean repeat placing draws to the roof (easy 25 to here) then I explored the upper section. The move to turn the lip is very much the 27 bit, but the section above it is probably another 25 in its own right (albeit with good stances before the hard climbing). The upper section is excitingly runout when placing draws, in classic Emil style
Mer 3 Avr 2024 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex
	25 Difficile	★★ Being and Nothingness (2nd Edition)	Sportive 35m, 12	★★★ Classique
Clean Repeat TRS. After chopping the original (crappy) start, re-jigging the bolts in the upper section, repairing a super key broken hold (that was forcing a weird "round the world" sequence, and meant the crux bolts were all in the wrong place), and developing a whole new (gr21) start, I needed to see if my efforts had borne fruit. In short, this is now one of my favourite routes on the wall. I'd call it 2nd best after Life of Riley. Its rad that with a bit more route development experience, and a bit of time and effort, this route -that has always frustrated me for having a crappy lower half, and a good but poorly arranged upper half- is now one of my favourite sporty sport routes I've put up. I really hope this gets more traffic now, because it deserves it. Incidentally, the gr21 Bottom section (25m to the first anchor) is proper good climbing, and would happily stand next to such contemporaries at Cosmic County.
Sam 30 Mars 2024 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex
	26 ~25	★★ Leviathan	Sportive 32m, 15	★★★ Classique
Clean Repeat. Revenge! Had to work at the top, but still managed to punch this straight out today. So much fun.
	23 ~22	★★ Smoko	Sportive 35m, 16	★★★ Classique
Clean repeat. Revenge! How did I fall off this last weekend? Still awesome.
Sam 23 Mars 2024 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex
	26 ~25	★★ Leviathan	Sportive 32m, 15	★★★ Classique
Repeat attempt, not clean today. No real problems to the top boulder, but -absent chalk- it took me a bit to piece it together. Essentially, three boulders (each getting harder than the other) with easier climbing and good rests inbetween. The top headwall is super rad.
	25 Facile	★★★ The Life of Riley	Sportive 35m	★★★ Classique
Clean repeat. Sweet! It's been a decade since I was last on this (when I ticked it) and it was rad to get on it today and just do it straight up, placing draws, without too much difficulty. One of the best technical, sustained, and consistently clean face climbs in NSW.
	23 ~22	★★ Smoko	Sportive 35m, 16	★★★ Classique
Repeat attempt, not clean today. Whoops... The unsend! Totally botched the crux. Otherwise, had a great old time. This route is always so much better than I remember it being
Lun 18 Mars 2024 - Hillwood (private land)
Matto Grosso The Wailing Wall
	24	★★ Hung on a Tree	Sportive 13m, 5	★★ Excellent
Back-to-back-to-back thinness on positive edges. The technical finale is the best bit. No time for another shot.
	21	★ Sugar Mountain	Sportive 10m	★★ Excellent
Sharp little crimps, but everything is just so much more positive than you expect. A fun little ramble.
Lun 18 Mars 2024 - Hillwood (private land)
Matto Grosso Golgotha
	22	★★★ The Long Kiss Goodnight	Sportive 25m, 12	★★ Excellent
Clean repeat. Wow, I forgot what a wild showstopper the finale (through the roof direct) is. Earns the grade for this one sequence, but its a good one.
	19	★★★ Ghost Rider	Sportive 27m, 10	★★★ Classique
Clean repeat. Just pleasant, flowing slabbing the whole way. Dreamy!
Lun 18 Mars 2024 - Hillwood (private land)
Matto Grosso The Leviathan
	22	★★ No Antidote	Sportive 15m	★★ Excellent
I fell off the start boulder a couple of times till I found the holds. A very cool finale.
	21	★★ Yuddy Boody Noo	Sportive 15m	★★ Excellent
Repeat. Weird, funky, and tough.
Dim 17 Mars 2024 - Bare Rock
New Horizons
	23 ~24	★★ Captain Awesome	Sportive 18m	★★ Excellent
Another stacked one. The opening boulder gave me a fair bit of grief initially. I went through it twice, only to bungle easier moves higher up. Complex face climbing.
	24	★★★ The Mullets' Edge	Sportive 18m	★★★ Classique
Repeat attempt - not clean today. In this instance, I couldn't even touch the opening move, but had no real trouble from after it to the top. But for the bouldery start, this route is better, and more arete-y than I remember it.
	21	★★ Way Of The Beanie	Sportive 15m, 6	★★ Excellent
Really short, but really tricky and unrelenting in my opinion. I came close to falling a few times.
Sam 16 Mars 2024 - Three O'Clock Hill
	22	★★ Rock Around the Clock	Sportive 15m	★★ Excellent
Short, but intense and unlikely.
	19	★ Crocodile Rock	Sportive 14m	★★ Excellent
The best of the routes on this boulder. More technical and interesting than it looked from the ground.
	17	★ Rock N Roll is King	Sportive 12m	★ Bon
An okay face climb.
	23	★★ Rock Steady	Sportive 20m	★★ Excellent
2 shots. Couldn't keep it together at the mid-point crux on either lap. A stacked upper half.
	23	★★ Rock Hard and Ride Free	Sportive 20m	★★ Excellent
An enjoyable, easy start, leads to a brutal, thin and technical finale. Exciting for a slab.
	23	★★ Hard as a Rock	Sportive 20m	★★ Excellent
Surprisingly sustained thin moves the whole way. I didn't find the sneaky crimp near the top on my onsight attempt.
	21	★★ Let’s Get Rocked	Sportive 18m	★★ Excellent
A few cool moves when you first come around the arete, then victory jugs to the top.
Ven 15 Mars 2024 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
	24	★★★ Heaven Can Wait	Sportive 30m, 14	★★★ Classique
Repeat attempt -not clean today. Frustrating. I first onsighted this back in 2016, and have never fallen off it since. Today, I got utterly schooled. Some big falls, much complaining, and a pathetic effort. The sun didn't help, but that's certainly not wholly to blame.
	23	★★ Fire in the sky	Sportive 30m, 16	★★ Excellent
Clean repeat. Well, at least I can still get up this one despite weakness and temps. Still a personal favourite.
Dim 10 Mars 2024 - Point Perpendicular
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area
	24	★★★ Mister Bean	Sportive 30m, 10	★★★ Classique
Repeat. 2 Laps. Truth be told, I fell off the bulge-boulder below the arete on my first lap, but corrected it on the second. A mixed bag of quality, and the arete itself is really easy, but it was still fun enough. Pretty much every hard move is escapable if you stray from the bolts a bit.
	23	★★ Fuzzy Logic	Trad 25m	★★ Excellent
Repeat. Been a long time since I onsighted this. Though I found it easy today, I didn't really enjoy it. Very contrived, and on average (grainy) rock. A few cool moves, though.
	22 ~23	★★ Just Technical	Sportive 15m	★★★ Classique
Repeat. 2 Laps for training. Damn I love this thing
Sam 9 Mars 2024 - Point Perpendicular
Seaside Windjammer Wall
	26	★★ Susie now Settled	Trad 25m	★ Bon
Not clean. Great to have something new to do (all on gear) when you've done everything else here, but it is really contrived (and kinda hard to decide what exactly is "off route"). Regardless, it has some rad, powerful moves. With my busted wrist, there was a single move I couldn't do today, but otherwise it seemed "achievable"... maybe.
	22 R	★★★ Memorable Moves	Trad 30m	★★★ Super classique
Repeat. My favourite route at Windjammer. Felt super relaxed and in control on it today, and got to the top without a pump.
Sam 9 Mars 2024 - Point Perpendicular
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area
	20	★★★ Bad Luck Streak	Trad 30m	★★★ Classique
Repeat. I remember this feeling nails, but I absolutely cruised it today. Super obvious, and super pleasant crack climbing.
	22	★★★ Northern Exposure	Trad mixte 30m, 6	★★★ Classique
Repeat. I forgot how sustained this was. With my current form, I just barely squeaked it, to be honest.
	21	★★★ Rex Hunt's Love Child	Sportive 30m, 10	★★★ Classique
Repeat. This is just a really fun climb, and not too hard at the grade. Feeling good on the slow return-to-form after 5 months on the couch.
Jeu 7 Mars 2024 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Ghidrah
	25	★★★ King Geedorah - avec Match	Sportive 70m	★★★ Super classique
TRS Lap -seconding Mitch after the FA. Not clean today (2 falls) but given that I'd been on the couch for 5 months to this point, I was happy just to try really hard. Most of my post-accident re-introduction to climbing has been tame, approachable, conventional crags. Being back on this monstrous monster is the sort of experience that reminds me why I've been trying to claw my way back to climbing so desperately. What a way to come back.
Sam 17 Fév 2024 - Blue Mountains
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Snake Cave
	21 ~21	FA ★ Outer Haven - avec Glen Thomson	Sportive 15m, 5	★ Bon
FA. Some great climbing at the start and once you start turning the cave roof, but the escapability into the choss cave, and the rock surrounding it knocks a start off. Might be hard at the grade? Though the grade is contingent on following the line of the bolts on the good rock, and not straying off into the choss.
	10	Snake Cave Access Route	Sportive 10m, 4	Pas la peine
Ugh. Sand.
	21	FA ★★ Peacewalker - avec Glen Thomson	Sportive 16m, 6	★★ Excellent
FA. A super cool hard start up steep jugs, and a tricky face on great rock... then easier, but less inspiring climbing to the top.
Dim 11 Fév 2024 - Blue Mountains
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Snake Cave
	22	FA ★★ Sahelanthropus - avec Greg Ducky, Philip Barker	Sportive 14m, 6	★★★ Classique
FA. A "Lowers Mountains Classic" (with all the caveats that statement encompasses). A climb of many components, but the technical finale is definitely a show stopper. No boring bits, that's for sure.
Dim 4 Fév 2024 - Blue Mountains
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Main Wall (Upper)
	21	★★ Gimme Your Fingernails - avec Philip Barker	Sportive 13m, 6	★★ Excellent
Short'n'sweet. Went direct through the small roof at the start to gain the line of the bolts (rather than heading out right, and traversing in via the corner). When climbed this way, it's quite sustained the whole way, with lots of interesting thin moves.
Dim 4 Fév 2024 - Blue Mountains
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence The Lost Woods
	18 Difficile	FA ★ Korok Climb - avec Philip Barker, Greg Ducky	Sportive 15m	★ Bon
First Ascent. Climbed ground-up before it was cleaned/brushed, and it felt like gr21... But after a good session to clean it, it's settled at 18. An interesting short slab, on mostly good rock, marred only by its escapability.
Ven 29 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Ali's Area
	3	★ Ali's - avec Cast of Thousands (much love to you all!)	Trad 60m	Pas la peine
Curses! The Unsend! (Replete with red-carpet treatment and private helicopter ride to Melboune). Worst route at Araps? Seriously, though; I have no words for the scale and magnitude and compassion of everyone who came together to pick me up from the lowest day of my life. I owe a lifetime of hugs and beers, it seems
Jeu 28 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
Atridae Agamemnon Area
	20	★★★ Wizard of lce - avec Jacques Beaudoin	Trad 35m	★★ Excellent
Seconding Jacques. Hardly a proud or inspiring line, but it is a worthy challenge that had both of us grunting with effort.
Jeu 28 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Tjuringa Wall
	24 R	★★ Bad Cheques	Trad 15m	★★★ Classique
2nd shot. Exciting send in the summery temps. Glad I didn't attempt the onsight, as that start is diabolical! I think this is borderline X without tricams, but maybe only R with them? Alas, I had no tricams. I loved the oozy, slinky style.
	25 R	★★★ Tjuringa	Trad mixte 50m, 2	★★ Excellent
2 short early morning sessions. I really liked this, but there was a single move I never did -Maybe I need crisp conditions to use the slopiest sloper that ever slopered? Beautiful, inspiring rock, and more sustained than I expected for a slab
Mar 26 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall
	24	★★ Life in the Fast Lane	Trad 25m	★★★ Classique
Headlamp EOD attempt. Great! After the inconsequential start, this is rad and engaging all the way to the topout
	24	★★ Paladin	Trad 16m	★★ Excellent
2nd shot. Brutally hard through the short crux, but otherwise unremarkable. A good challenge to solve, but on balance I wouldn't say I enjoyed it.
Lun 25 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face
	25 R	★★★ Aftermath - avec Simmo	Trad mixte 30m, 1	★★★ Classique
2nd shot. So much fun!!! After seeing all the broken gear on this one, I decided to do an equipping lap, then smashed it second shot. Steep, juggy, intimidating pumpiness through outrageous steep terrain. Im pretty chuffed to say that I reached the anchor completely unpumped I then downclimbed it to clean it
	21	★★★ Trinity Wall - avec Simmo	Trad 30m	★★★ Classique
Gripping! Its hard to grade something like this, where tenuousness, fear and difficulty are all coalescing. Suffice to say: spacey, technical, improbable, and intimidating.
	17	★★★ Oceanoid - avec Simmo	Trad 75m	★★★ Super classique
One of the best easy routes Ive ever done in the country. This is an improbable, exposed, well-protected, mind-blowing, funky gigglefest... and I loooooooooved it.
Dim 24 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress
	22	★★★ Los Endos - avec Gerry Narkowicz	Trad 40m	★★★ Super classique
Best route on this wall. Long, and continually interesting, spicey but not death. Great position punching up the arete =)
	17	★ Oh Bondage - avec Gerry Narkowicz	Trad 15m	★ Bon
Seconding Gezza. Man, what a rad finish at the grade. Committing, despite appearances.
	25	★★ Ride Like the Wind Variant	Trad mixte 20m, 2	★★ Excellent
2nd redpoint attempt, after a TRS rehearsal. Took a huuuuge fall on my first RP attempt. Short and hardly a "line" but cool rock and moves, and crazy sustained for a face climb.
Jeu 21 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
Northern Group High Dive Gully
	23	★★★ High Dive - avec Ben Jenga	Trad 25m	★ Bon
Seconding Jenga -not clean. The grade and quality of this route is contingent on how contrived you make it -which probably also reflects the range of opinions on the grade. The route as "officially described" is utterly nails at the grade, and super-duper contrived (essentially tackling the line of most resistance). If you do the crux traverse 50cm lower, this is about grade 21, and makes more logicical sense. Needless to say, I fell off the last crux move of the super-contrived version
Jeu 21 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
Northern Group Kachoong Area
	21	★★★ Kachoong - avec Lucas C	Trad mixte 25m, 1	★★★ Classique
Clean repeat. Seconding Lucas to get the gear back. Campused the roof for a laugh. What an iconic route!
Jeu 21 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
Northern Group High Dive Gully
	21	★★★ A Taste of Honey - avec Ben Jenga	Trad 27m	★★★ Classique
Clean repeat. Seconding Jenga to get the gear back. Just goooood fun!
	21	★★★ A Taste of Honey - avec Lucas C	Trad 27m	★★★ Classique
Not a good warmup I flashed pumped on the last move of the traverse on my onsight, took the whip, and broke my cam 2nd shot was a cruiiiiiiiise and just super fun. More intimidating than Kachoong, and more technical for a steep climb, but not much harde grade-wise.
Jeu 21 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
Northern Group Kachoong Area
	21	★ Capilano - avec Lucas C	Trad 25m	★★★ Classique
Seems kinda underrated? Wild, exposed, pumpy climbing at the grade. The traverse was all-time, right!
Jeu 21 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall
	22	★★ The Second Coming - avec Rick Webb	Trad 57m	★★★ Classique
Craaaazy slippery, and quite stop-start, but the rock is impeccable, and the moves are gnarly. The mantle gave me a bit of grief, and the start of P2 was bouldery... but the runout finale on small gear up the face was eye-opening!
	25	★★★ Trojan - avec Mitch Perkins	Trad mixte 86m, 2	★★★ Classique
2nd shot. My onsight attempt was an absokute debacle -I just couldn't seem to get my head around it, for some reason. Then, when I figured my beta, the 2nd lap was kinda cruisy, I didn't get stressed or pumped. Weird? Objectively, its classic, slippery, burly, steep crack climbing, with a ruthless start.
	19	★★★ Judgement Day - avec Lucas C	Trad mixte 67m, 1	★★★ Classique
Super mega, exposed, and intimidating at the grade... but damn what a line! Both pitches are absolutely stellar exposed climbing.
Mer 20 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face
	20 R	★★ Dazed and Confused	Trad 20m	★ Bon
Kinda scary. I sandbagged myself climbing up the right arete of the boulder, then just got rattled by the poor gear and surprisingly average rock at the start of the real climbing. It was.more fun further up, though.
	27	★★★ Mind Arthritis - avec Simmo	Sportive 25m, 5	★★★ Classique
Exploratory lap. Mega climbing with a bouldery crimp crux. Not particularly scary -though all the bolts are in the wrong spot, its fine once the draws are on. I could probably do this this trip, but I think id rather get on more Arapilean-esque routes.
Mer 20 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
	12	★★ Dunes - avec Ben Jenga	Trad 100m	★★★ Classique
Clean Repeat -seconding Jenga. Route 2 of 2 of our speedy early morning ramble. Probably better than Eskimo Nell (and much better than I remember it).
	10	★★★ Eskimo Nell - avec Ben Jenga	Trad 130m	★★★ Classique
Clean repeat -seconding Jenga. Route 1 of 2 in a speedy before-breakfast push to work up an appetite. Just a classic easy outing.
Mar 19 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall
	25	★★ Girls on Bikes	Trad 40m	★★ Excellent
Took a monster whip falling off the upper crux on my onsight-attempt. Then had a few more less dramatic falls before I pieced it together. A briefly thin and reachy sequence, but otherwise not tooooo hideous.
	23	★★★ Intransience	Trad 25m	★★★ Classique
Very easy at the grade (and better protected than I expected) but super super fun! The start traverse is wild fun, and the finale is smoooooooothe face climbing pleasure.
	22	★★ Cecilia	Trad mixte 25m, 4	★★ Excellent
Totally botched the start sequence and pumped out, then went back to the ground and sent. Probably about gr20 from the first bolt to the top, but the start is gnarly and slippery.
Mar 19 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress
	20	★★ Electric Warrior	Trad 30m	★★ Excellent
Jeebus! I found this nails at the grade. I struggled with the slippery start until I sorted my feet, though the top was no slouch either. One of the harder routes I've done at the grade.
Lun 18 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face
	20	★★★ Thunder Crack	Trad 30m	★★★ Classique
Great! Id always avoided it for fear and mixed reviews, but it was awesome! The slippery start was less problematic than I expected, and the rest of it was stance-friendly exposed 3-Dimensional climbing.
	25	★★★ Station to Station	Trad mixte 22m, 4	★★★ Classique
2nd shot. First lap was a bit of a debacle, but my first redpoint burn was a controlled cruise -wasn't even pumped at the top. Super funky grampians-esque start, then a burly and technical crack and arete finale. Steep fun in an exposed position.
Lun 18 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
	19	★★★ Morfydd	Trad 30m	★★★ Classique
Yep, its a classic. I found the slippery start rather desperate, but once I found my groove, it was all gravy, baby. =)
Dim 17 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Ali's Area
	3	★ Ali's - avec The Boyz	Trad 60m	★★★ Super classique
Best route at Araps? Pretty chuffed to onsight this slippery sucker.
Dim 17 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress
	20	★★ Wild Arts	Trad 40m	★★★ Classique
Seconding Simmo. Climbed as a giant 50m pitch. Absolutely awesome in this manner, eith a super cool finale up the face.
Dim 17 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully
	24	★★ Dreadnought - avec Simmo 1 24 Trad 2 24 Trad	Trad 54m	★★ Excellent
Thought the first pitch was kinda average (short, bouldery, uninspiring and on average rock for Arapiles), but P2 was mega (great rock, gnarly oozy moves, cool position). Linked both pitches for a more interesting outing.
Sam 16 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully
	22	★★ Dreadnought Variant - avec Simmo	Trad 12m	★★★ Classique
Wow! What a line. For such a short route, this one packs it in with wiiiiild climbing on great rock. Linking this into P2 of Dreadnought makes this line a proper classic!
Sam 16 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall
	21	★★ The Wraith - avec Simmo	Trad 35m	★ Bon
Not as good as Tannin. Rock is dubious in places, and some of the gear was a bit sketch. Still great, technical face-climbing, though
	19	★★★ Tannin - avec Simmo	Trad 35m	★★★ Classique
Wow, amazing rock and climbing at the grade. How did I wait so long before trying this one? Aesthetic, technical and interesting.
Dim 10 Sept 2023 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Northern Walls
	25	★★★ The Terrible Truth About Time - avec Heath Black	Sportive 35m, 14	★★★ Classique
Stacked! So many dropable moves the whole way up. A face-climbing connoisseur's delight! Seconding the First Ascent clean -I almost came unstuck when the FA decided to use a locked locking bina bolt-side at the hardest crux, resulting in some mid-crux desperation. A classic for sure.
	23	★★ No Questions Asked - avec Heath Black	Sportive 25m, 11	★★ Excellent
Super exposed arete climbing. Would be 3 stars but the rock is slightly less than perfect. Very technical, yet steep and pumpy.
Dim 10 Sept 2023 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Dogface Main Wall
	26	★★★ Gigantor (free version) - avec Match, Monty 1 25 Trad 2 26 Trad 3 23 En second	Trad 100m	★★★ Classique
Day 6 for the Redpoint! I really wanted to come back and improve the style on this. Firstly, because I think mine is the first repeat of the route, and secondly, because this route is both harder and scarier to do it placing the gear (the former for P1, the latter for P2)... It's also proud enough that it warrants the extra effort. So, as you might imagine, I'm pretty chuffed to have gotten this done, and in pretty good style. Full disclosure: I did have the first few pieces of gear clipped off the belay at the start of each pitch. Quote of the day: "Don't get upset if I start freaking out; I'm weak, wimpy Frothy, not bold, strong Zackie"
Ven 8 Sept 2023 - Vaucluse
Diamond Bay Northern Wall
	24	★★★ Violet Town - avec Tom Collins	Sportive 18m, 8	★★★ Classique
2nd shot. Fell off AFTER the upper crux on my onsight due to an amateurish foot-slip on an easy move 2nd shot was a cruise, but DAMN its fun. Really nice rock, cool moves, and not too hard at the grade. This would be a classic anywhere, in my opinion.
	26	★★ Ordeal by Fur - avec Tom Collins	Sportive 18m, 8	★★ Excellent
Almost a classic, but that its essentially about gr24 with a v6+ crux. Night time attempt, 2 shots, awesome second lap but still couldn't link that crux, unfortunately. The rest of the route is great, though.
Jeu 7 Sept 2023 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Dogface Main Wall
	26 R	★★★ Gigantor (free version) - avec Match, Simmo	Trad 100m	★★★ Classique
5 days of effort to this point. Pretty chuffed to get both this and Titan done free within the span of a month. As with Titan, I really wanted to prove to myself that I could do this. I wasn't planning on doing it until next season, but had an unscheduled day, and decided to check it out... and I was immediately hooked on the challenge. As to the route: If the rock wasn't choss -even if it was just your run-of-the-mill Blueys Sandstone, I'd call this the single best crack climbing I've been on in the entire world (and I don't think my resume is lacking when it comes to crack climbing) for position, sustainedness, and purity. It would also be a super-duper obvious contender to climb as a giant pitch. Alas, it is choss, so while I still regard it as classic, that is very much a subjective opinion, and I think prospective repeat ascensionists should really consider whether this will be their cup-of-tea or not. P1 - is amazingly varied and technical climbing. Personally, I probably found this physically harder than P2 (in that, its more cruxy) and in some ways scarier (due to insecure cruxes). The opening finger-locking is aesthetic and great, and the insecure laybacking through the middle lends itself to complex footwork. P2 - Looser than P1 for sure (the start of the pitch is horrible!), but quite stacked. This has a lot of hard moves with no super chill rest. I found the last moves to the anchor to be the crux, there there was about 5 sections I could genuinely have fallen off on. P3 - To be honest, I didn't like this pitch at all. Loose, hard to protect short crack section, followed by a sandy traverse on eroding edges to gain the topout ledge. Less sandy/chossy than you might expect in some ways... More sandy/chossy than you might expect in others. There's an "unpredictability" to the rock here that most other chossy routes I've climbed don't quite have. The gear is also pretty good, provided you're smart about where you place, and remember that spreading fall-load over a larger surface area is better than the alternative (read: passive pro, dammit!). Don't trust the fixed gear, though
Dim 27 Août 2023 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone
	25	★★ Beaver Shot - avec Match	Sportive 20m, 12	★★ Excellent
One day I'll tick this Super fun start and finish, but I find the crux rather nails. An easy way of making this less cruxy (at the same grade) is to traverse left around the little crux boulder, since you end up back on-line by the next bolt anyway.
	25	★★ He Said, She Said - avec Match	Sportive 20m, 11	★★★ Classique
Clean repeat. Super fun. This one ha cleaned up nicely since I last did it. Easy for the grade. Great start and finish
	23	★★★ Sensory Overload - avec Match	Sportive 20m, 12	★★ Excellent
Another repeat. Never gets old
Mar 22 Août 2023 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Dogface Main Wall
	26	★★ Titan - avec Match, Simmo, Stephen Varney 1 19 35 En second 2 18 30 En second 3 26 20 Trad 4 26 25 Trad	Trad 110m	★ Bon
5 days of effort in total to put this all together. I pink-pointed the top 2 pitches, and had the first 2m of gear pre-clipped on P3. I broke 4 fixed pegs, and 1 hourglass carrot during this process. I also took 5 falls -one of which was a sideways whip onto an hourglass carrot, that somehow held my fall! I wanted to climb something hard on Dogface to prove to myself that I could -I've always believed that I could, but the time had come to prove it. I found this a conflicting experience. I liked the climbing on the crux pitches, and -surprisingly- didn't end up finding the bad rock/gear as terrifying as I expected. However, because every single lap the route gets harder (breakages, holds become sandier, others become more rounded, fixed gear breaks, etc) my whole experience was stressful due to the knowledge that sooner or later it would be too hard for me to climb. I've never really climbed with this type of time-constraint before (wherein, every failed lap is punished by adding .1 of a grade to the pitch). Interestingly, the bottom 2 pitches are quite moderate, and actually surprisingly good (the rock isn't too bad, the gear is pretty good, and the climbing is fun!). These pitches are probably worth doing in their own right. After that, it gets rather sandy, and kinda hard P3 had a wildly technical thin stepped corner (on good gear) to start it off (it took me quite a while to figure out the beta), followed by easy, loose, runout rambling. P4 had a very cool seam-crack crux, followed by interesting, technical, runout slab climbing on deteriorating rock.