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Ascensions dans Australie comme Flash par Paul Frothy Thomson

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Affichage de 1 - 100 sur 411 ascensions.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Qualité
Dim 26 Mai 2024 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Ghidrah
24 Orochi - avec Match Sportive 55m Classique
Awesome, continuous face climbing, with no obvious "stances" to break up the pitch. Seconding Mitch clean to exit the crag. Fairly sustained, though with no pronounced crux. Great rock, rad moves... the start is all time

 
Lun 18 Mars 2024 - Hillwood (private land)
Matto Grosso The Wailing Wall
21 Sugar Mountain Sportive 10m Excellent
Sharp little crimps, but everything is just so much more positive than you expect. A fun little ramble.

 
Sam 16 Mars 2024 - Three O'Clock Hill
22 Rock Around the Clock Sportive 15m Excellent
Short, but intense and unlikely.

 
19 Crocodile Rock Sportive 14m Excellent
The best of the routes on this boulder. More technical and interesting than it looked from the ground.

 
17 Rock N Roll is King Sportive 12m Bon
An okay face climb.

 
23 Rock Hard and Ride Free Sportive 20m Excellent
An enjoyable, easy start, leads to a brutal, thin and technical finale. Exciting for a slab.

 
21 Let’s Get Rocked Sportive 18m Excellent
A few cool moves when you first come around the arete, then victory jugs to the top.

 
Sam 16 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully
22 Dreadnought Variant - avec Simmo Trad 12m Classique
Wow! What a line. For such a short route, this one packs it in with wiiiiild climbing on great rock. Linking this into P2 of Dreadnought makes this line a proper classic!

 
Sam 16 Sept 2023 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall
19 Tannin - avec Simmo Trad 35m Classique
Wow, amazing rock and climbing at the grade. How did I wait so long before trying this one? Aesthetic, technical and interesting.

 
Dim 10 Sept 2023 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Northern Walls
23 No Questions Asked - avec Heath Black Sportive 25m, 11 Excellent
Super exposed arete climbing. Would be 3 stars but the rock is slightly less than perfect. Very technical, yet steep and pumpy.

 
Jeu 15 Juin 2023 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Ghidrah
25 King Geedorah - avec Match Sportive 70m Super classique
Gentleman's Sit Flash. Flashed with a "gentleman's sit" at a no-hands rest near the top. Mitch's draws and beta (super key for the start) with little/no chalk on the route.

Wow... Just... wow! Like Subliminal, but for climbing connoisseurs. This thing is destined to be a classic, especially given the relatively easy approach. Probably 23/24 after the first 10m, but it simply never lets up its entire 70m length. Even the top "Grey rock" headwall is tricky and awesome.

Best of all: it completely makes sense given the fact that there isn't really a "stance" to rebelay until you're almost at the top. Rope drag was fine as well.

An utter joy to climb.

 
Dim 20 Nov. 2022 - Blue Mountains
Black Site Crags Black Site
17 Belayer Bait Sportive 10m Excellent
In approach shoes. Way better and less chossy than it looks. This was actually quite fun.

 
Mar 1 Nov. 2022 - Blue Mountains
Lower Blue Mountains Falling Water Wall Lower Cliff
24 Textures of Consciousness - avec Simmo Trad 70m Classique
Facilitating Simmo's FA of this old-skool modern-day classic.

Beautiful rock, and radical climbing, with lots of rests between tricky moves. As a giant pitch, almost entirely on gear, this is kinda intense (could maybe use an extra bolt or 2?)

Done with a Gentleman's Sit at a no-hands rest to avoid pinching the FA.

Proper cool!

 
Dim 18 Sept 2022 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Bald Head Serendipitous Walls
23 Unknown 5 (new for 2022) - avec Heath Black Sportive 35m, 16 Excellent
Aside from a horrible start, and a silly anchor position, the other 30m of this route is enjoyable, sustained, an varied. There are a handful of hardish moves that probably make this 23, but for the most part it's continuous, rather than cruxy. The fact it tackles 3 rooves at the grade is pretty cool.

 
Jeu 28 Avr 2022 - Bruny Island
Cloudy Bay Hidden Zawn Maelstrom Wall
22 The Green Dream - avec Jared Anderson Sportive 20m, 12 Classique
A lot of this was sopping, so I chose to chalk and equip the draws on the way down. Like everything here, the quality was so high that crappy connies didn't impede the fun. Super classy face climbing.

 
Mar 26 Avr 2022 - Bruny Island
Cloudy Bay The Aviary
24 Powerful Owl - avec Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz Sportive 20m Excellent
Short and punchee!

I probably had more trouble keeping it together through the start boulder, than the upper powerful, morpho section... but I did have Michael's good foot beta.

 
20 19 Cheeky Monkey - avec Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz Sportive 20m, 7 Excellent
Some cool, delicate moves... but I thought the crux was absolutely brutal at the grade. Not a bad introduction to the crag, though.

 
Sam 1 Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains
Black Site Crags Adventure Park
22 Dividing Line Sportive 14m Bon
Sam 1 Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains
Black Site Crags Black Site
22 Sneaky Snorkeler Sportive 14m
The top section up the headwall is briefly Red River-esque.

 
23 Funky Venga Bus Sportive 15m Classique
Mega! Brilliant rock and wild moves once you leave the ledge. Always worth a lap.

 
Mer 27 Oct. 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Dalpura Head Dalpura Wall
24 Crankenstein - avec Heath Black, Match
1 24 35m grimpé en tête par Paul Frothy Thomson
2 24 40m grimpé en tête par Heath Black
3 23 35m grimpé en tête par Paul Frothy Thomson
Sportive 110m Bon
Some sections of great climbing, but marred by crappy carrots (albeit, lots of them!), plenty of bad rock, dirt, moss, and the really weird line it takes up the feature.

My recommendation for the pitch grades are 24, 24, 23.

Pitch 1 COULD be great, but the key holds are very very temporary, and I had to climb it on eggshells for the flash. We placed draws as we rapped over it, and ticked up key holds, though I had no climbing beta for the send.

I went for the onsight epic on P2, and had just stuck the upper slab crux (certain it was in the bag) when I ripped off a huge -unlikely- jug and whipped. After belaying Monty, I had to settle for seconding it clean taking off the bolt plates.

Pitch 3 had a tough start, then simply oodles of delicate climbing on crap rock at about grade 21.

All in all, a fun day out with friends (and not quite the epic we were anticipating) but far from classic.

 
Ven 22 Oct. 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Cottage Boulder
24 Boys Buckets and Bumps - avec David Dearnley, Heath Black Sportive 15m Excellent
Surprisingly good! Would be a proper classic but for the no-hands rests at half height. Two engaging, long boulder problems in differing styles, split by a couple of ledges. Definitely only 24.

 
Dim 19 Sept 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Solomon Area
24 Mossy Rections - avec Heath Black Sportive 50m, 10 Excellent
Flash placing most of the bolt plates on lead, but I had the full beta spiel from Neil. Some sections of average rock, but quite sustained slabbing with no real shutdown moves. The mantle is ridiculous! The in situ carrots are in completely the wrong places almost the entire way up.

 
Sam 28 Août 2021 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Bald Head Serendipitous Walls
24 25 Four Seasons - avec Heath Black, Ben Sanford, Stephen Varney Sportive 45m, 20 Excellent
Lots of moves, but no shutdown crux. A climb of two halves, and both worthy. The upper section is hilariously unlikely.

 
23 Fastest Gun in the West - avec Heath Black, Ben Sanford, Stephen Varney Sportive 39m, 16 Classique
Awesome. No bad rock, and never a boring bit as it meanders up radical, improbable features. Possibly the best route at the crag.

 
24 Serendipitous Arette - avec Heath Black, Ben Sanford, Stephen Varney
1 24 30m
2 17 25m
Sportive 55m, 14 Classique
Awesome, unlikely climbing with some mega positions. Even staying on the arete direct this isn't too hard, but it IS brilliant.

 
Mer 11 Août 2021 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Area El Desperado Wall
20 Sport Unknown2 - avec Heath Black, Match Sportive 25m, 7 Bon
Much better than it looks. Some technical face/slab up fairly nice grey rock. The bolts are terrible, though.

 
21 Carrot Unknown3 - avec Match, Heath Black Trad mixte 27m, 5 Excellent
Nice rock, and some great moves up an aesthetic face. The upper half is just good climbing.

 
Sam 26 Juin 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bowens Creek Main Wall Centre
23 A0 23 A0 Broken Blonde Gift - avec Jared Tyerman Sportive 25m Bon
Climbs better with a single point of aid than in the hideously bouldery free version. I had a bit of a crack at the crux, but was too shouldery for me at the moment. Otherwise: a nice start on great rock, and a fairly punchy pleasant section above the crux.

 
Dim 14 Mars 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Duck Wall
21 Duck Tits - avec Heath Black Sportive 16m Excellent
A few interesting moves, and an engagingly steep finale.

 
Dim 7 Fév 2021 - Bulahdelah
Hoppy's Cave
24 Pull Ya Plonka - avec Magdalena de la Torre, Lucas C Sportive 15m, 6 Classique
Sweet. Quite sustained, and on awesome rock, though not as steep as some of the stuff here. I watched Lucas and Magui go hard on this, then went for the lots-of-beta techo ascent, whereby it felt fine and fun.

 
Sam 23 Jan 2021 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Gateway, Doomsday & Fort Rock Doomsday Wall
24 Submission - avec Heath Black Sportive 25m Excellent
Flash but for a "gentleman's sit" at a no-hands stance. Probably a bit easier if you're my height, but the entire steep section at the top is quite sustained regardless. A fairly cruisy lower half, and a fairly intense upper half.

 
Sam 16 Jan 2021 - Kaputar
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall
24 Leather jacket - avec Stephen Varney Sportive 18m, 6 Excellent
I really enjoyed the upper half of this, despite it being dirty as a pig in a wallow. With some brushing it cleaned up nicely. Has a rather gritstone-esque finish.

 
Lun 11 Jan 2021 - Kaputar
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall
20 18 Meritorious - avec Stephen Varney Sportive 20m, 11 Excellent
Awesome! Despite some crap rock, this is a proper gnarly sustained stemming corner, with good technique a must. Seemed rather hard for the grade.

 
Ven 1 Jan 2021 - Blue Mountains
Black Site Crags Adventure Park
23 Echo Chamber Sportive 35m Classique
Route #4 of 4 of the Crag Classics. Intense, featured sloper climbing on some of the best rock of the crag.

 
24 Lazy Boy Sportive 35m Excellent
Onsight but for the shared start with the righthand 24 (which I'd fallen off previously). Probably about gr22 to the top once you're past the shared start, and its some pretty outrageous climbing at the grade. The steepness is freaking nutty.

 
25 No End in Sight Sportive 35m Excellent
Flashed with the full beta spiel from Monty. I also really appreciate being one of the namesake elements for this route

 
Lun 28 Déc 2020 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road
The Gold Mine Sandpaper Wall
20 Air Active - avec Match Sportive 25m Bon
A few okay moves, but the start seemed hideously hard, and kinda sketchy. My skin was wrecked 3rd day on, and was hard to enjoy this.

 
Sam 26 Déc 2020 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road
Tianjara Falls Bill James Testimonial Gully
22 Cornerstone - avec Viona Young Sportive 18m Classique
Great! Quite sustained through the orange-arete section (with a surprisingly tricky crux), then a pleasant slab to the finish.

 
Sam 19 Sept 2020 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Northern Walls
24 Not the Messiah - avec Heath Black Sportive 38m, 17 Excellent
Certainly much more sustained than its neighbour, and with a proper hard crux at half height. Fortunately the ending is easier. I had to give this some welly to get through it. A route feels really long when you aren't ever "really" just cruising

 
23 Forever War - avec Heath Black Sportive 40m, 18 Excellent
A nice long pitch of slabbing on generally good rock. The finale in particular is rather exciting through steepness and a wild mantle.

 
Jeu 27 Août 2020 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Tank Top
23 Tic Tac Tok - avec Heath Black Sportive 23m, 9 Excellent
Once you get to the orange rock, this is genuinely good face climbing. The moves themselves aren't hard, but I suspect the counter-intuitive nature of some of the sequences might ruin a few onsights. Steeper than you think!

 
Lun 8 Juin 2020 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone National Park Main Cliff
21 Unknown - avec Heath Black Sportive 20m, 5 Excellent
Increases in difficulty, following some cool features until they run out, then gets very thin (and also runout). Rock is a mixed bag, but it climbs well.

 
Mer 15 Avr 2020 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Red Wall
21 Chink in the Armour Sportive 20m Excellent
Some rubbish rock mars some otherwise very cool climbing. The lower roofy crux is quite engaging.

 
18 TrackerJack Sportive 33m, 14 Classique
Pretty challenging for the grade, but in the rarefied category of "surprisingly good quality for an easy route in the Blueys".

 
Mar 14 Avr 2020 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Orange Wall
24 Good Golly Miss Molly Sportive 25m, 10 Excellent
Fairly cruisy technical face climbing on nice rock for the most part... but then the crux hits you, and it is bloody thin. Only just kept it together for flash.

 
Lun 13 Avr 2020 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Red Wall
20 Twigs and Bark Sportive 15m Excellent
Good, continuous slab climbing, with a few roofs to negotiate, and a rather demanding and intimidatingly blank finale.

 
Sam 11 Avr 2020 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Dingo Creek
22 An All-New Face-Climb Sportive 35m, 14 Bon
Some good sections of climbing once you're out on the face, but the dubious rock makes the whole experience somewhat trepidatious.

 
Dim 5 Avr 2020 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Smallpox
23 Unleash the Mighty Mongrel Sportive 10m Excellent
Short and steep, but with a more involved and thought-provoking crux.

 
Dim 29 Mars 2020 - Nowra
Babylon Areas Occupied Territories First Canyon
24 Axis of Evil Sportive 18m, 8 Classique
Bloody awesome steep sloper-jug climbing on beautiful rock, but rather easy at the grade.

 
Dim 22 Mars 2020 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Gateway, Doomsday & Fort Rock Doomsday Wall
23 Cockorona - avec Heath Black Sportive 25m, 9 Excellent
I hope you like slabs. Everything that is hard about this is contained in its slab moves. Fortunately I do like slabs

 
Sam 21 Mars 2020 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Spoilt Brats Wall
24 Ritalin - avec Ben Jenga Sportive 30m Excellent
Good climbing, but maybe not the classic it's made out to be (way too ledgy and roo many no-hands rests). I didn't find the mantles particularly hard, but the top five metres or so proved a bit of a challenge.

 
Mer 18 Mars 2020 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Echo Point Echo Point Walls
24 Storm From The East - avec Goshen Watts Sportive 40m, 10 Classique
Amazing position and climbing, though very very easy for the grade (even with the entire right side of the arete running with water). The top half is much steeper than you expect, with oodles of exposure and rather spaced bolts to make you FEEL the atmosphere. Placed draws on the way down and dobbed a few bits of chalk on the section that looked like it might the crux, hence: no onsight. Bring a minimum of a 60m rope to fix at the top anchors in order to reach the belay.

 
Dim 15 Mars 2020 - Elanora Heights
Main Wall
24 Cyrus The Virus - avec Lucas C, Magdalena de la Torre, Rob Medlicott Sportive 15m, 8 Classique
Psyched! Flash placing draws (but with Lucas' constant beta-stream), an upper-echelon classic that is surprisingly sustained but somehow invites you to keep pushing a move higher through all the steepness. Bullet-hard rock, and a rad variety of moves, to a proper horizontal jugging finish.

 
Dim 1 Mars 2020 - Point Perpendicular
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area
22 Grandmas ta Flash - avec Heath Black Sportive 15m Bon
Didn't find most of this too hard... except for the start boulder, which I doubt I would've flashed had Neilio not chalked up the key hold. Good climbing in a stop-start manner, but the rock deteriorates as you get higher.

 
Dim 2 Fév 2020 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath Colosseum
22 Frankly Speaking - avec Heath Black Sportive 35m Bon
Sections of great climbing up a nice orange face, but rather choss in its current form, and the anchors at the top are in a rope-destroying position. Plan to rap this one, people.

 
Dim 2 Fév 2020 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath Valley Farm
23 Stolen Valor - avec Heath Black Trad mixte 35m, 11 Excellent
Quite worthwhile, and general good quality rock once the initial crack is dispensed with. Sustained, with no real defined crux, but a few unlikely sequences, and a potentially heartbreaker finish.

 
Sam 11 Jan 2020 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Main Wall
23 24 Whodunnthat Sportive 17m Excellent
Climbs much better than it looks, and is a surprisingly logical line. The crux is a super-funky bit of sideways deadpointing. A great warmup.

 
Jeu 2 Jan 2020 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Big Top
22 Hairy Vengeance - avec Heath Black Sportive 30m Excellent
Probably about grade 20 if you can crack climb. The finale isn't the crux if you can. At any rate, an awesome, landmark corner with varied and interesting moves the entire way. Super duper traddy.

 
22 20 FliX - avec Heath Black Sportive 25m Bon
Onsight from the crux up. A very hard crux fingery at the grade, and substantially harder than the rest of the route. Not as clean or sustained as its neighbours, but still worthy,.

 
Dim 6 Oct. 2019 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff
21 22 Red Sleigh Down - avec Heath Black Sportive 15m, 6 Dans la moyenne
A few good moves in the top half, rather rubbish in the bottom half. I liked the crux move, though. Be careful mantling the sandy ledge.

 
Sam 31 Août 2019 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Porters Pass La La Land Area
22 Shocking Pocket Monster - avec Will Vidler Sportive 15m Bon
Quite intense... for the first 4m. Some interesting moves, but more like a boulder problem than a route. I linked this into Lego Land for a ~35m pitch to make it more interesting.

 
Lun 22 Avr 2019 - Moonarie
Checkers Wall
24 The Passenger - avec Emil Mandyczewsky Trad mixte 55m, 6 Excellent
Marred only by a very very brief crux, this is great taipan-esque climbing with a bouldery slimper start and a blueys steep finish. Not 25 as in the guide, and probably not too bad for 24, really... but worthwhile.

 
Lun 15 Avr 2019 - Moonarie
The Ramparts
24 Fingernickin' - avec Emil Mandyczewsky, Gerry Narkowicz Trad 100m Classique
P1 only, flash on Emil's gear. An amazing and intimidating looking overhanging crack, which actually climbs a lot easier than it looks. I went for the hideous, scrappy, burlfest approach rather than a stylish ascent, relying on my strength rather than poise for the ascent... but it worked

 
Dim 14 Avr 2019 - Moonarie
Flying Buttress
22 Swooping Pterodactyls - avec Emil Mandyczewsky, Gerry Narkowicz Trad mixte 75m, 11 Classique
Steeper than you think, and very Taipaneque. Sloper-love! P1 only on Emil's gear. No boring bits from when you leave the ground, until you turn the top overhanging crack. Low admin, and high quality. Get on it.

 
Sam 6 Avr 2019 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Atlantis
19 Subwoofer - avec Stephen Varney Sportive 15m Pas la peine
An utterly nails opening boulder problem, followed by a tedious dawdle. Could be a worthy actual boulder-problem if you could be brothered bringing a mat.

 
Sam 30 Mars 2019 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Atlantis
24 The Diary of Ann Spank - avec Heath Black Sportive 15m Excellent
The better of the two 24's. A boulder start with lots of rad steep climbing above. Continuing up the flake feature 2m above the anchor (to the logical, non-rope-destroying position for the anchors) makes for a cool finish.

 
24 Rooky of the Year - avec Heath Black Sportive 15m Bon
Pretty easy for the grade, and not as good as it's lefthand neighbour. The punchy moves to the anchor are memorable.

 
22 Greg's Route - avec Heath Black Sportive 15m Excellent
A hard start, with some interesting, funky climbing higher up. More of a full package than most of the routes here.

 
Ven 28 Déc 2018 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Atlantis
25 Herminator - avec Heath Black Sportive 25m, 13 Excellent
Neil gave me the boulder-problem crux beta and it was mark an execute all the way. Very onsightable with our chalk on it, but might be worth waiting until I rebolt the deathiest death block start in the next few weeks (might even be classiquè then!). Steep face climbing on finger jugs, beautiful water polished rock, and intimidating exposure.

 
Ven 28 Déc 2018 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Wave Wall
21 Hang Five Sportive 15m, 5 Bon
No beta flash (draws were up)... kind of a dawdle until the very end. Not great, but its a warmup.

 
Jeu 27 Déc 2018 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Railway Cliff
23 Baboon Class - avec Heath Black Sportive 30m, 13 Excellent
Bwah, quite sustained and bloody hard for the grade. Techy and tenuous and very long. A weird line, but a worthy one. Not sure about the new bolts near the start

 
Mer 26 Déc 2018 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff
20 Hark! The .. - avec Heath Black, Stephen Varney Sportive 15m, 6 Excellent
A few tricky moves. The rock on this wall is really good for blueys easy routes.

 
Dim 16 Sept 2018 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Hat Hill Crag
21 Crackadoo! - avec Heath Black, Wade Stewart Trad mixte 18m, 8 Bon
A pleasant, easy crack, followed by a pleasant easy ramble up a linked series of corner-features. The moves turning the roof are quite interesting. About 3 grades easier than Fedora.

 
20 Dinosaur Train - avec Heath Black, Wade Stewart Sportive 13m, 5 Bon
I liked the crux holds and moves. Face-y!

 
Dim 26 Août 2018 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Atlantis
22 Histrionix Sportive 23m Bon
Other than the terrifying death-spinner bolts, this is really good climbing, and probably tough at the grade. With a rebolt, and a bit of hammering of the first few metres of choss, this would easily earn "very good" in my book. Lots of memorable and exciting moves and generally great rock.

 
22 Eurotic Sportive 15m Bon
I liked the first half of this. The top is a bit contrived and predictable, though maybe I'm just salty because it was dripping wet. The lower half was briefly but intriguingly intense.

 
Sam 18 Août 2018 - Wolgan Valley
Coal Mines Cliff
20 Barton's Effort - avec Jason McCarthy Trad mixte 35m, 8 Classique
No-beta flash, but Jason McCarthy had kindly equipped and chalked up the route for us. Doesn't look like much from the ground, but climbs brilliantly, and with some spicy spaced bolting that is just on the right side of sanity. Very technical, varied, wandery, sustained slabbing. Reminded me of The Belles, The Belles at Railway Cliffs (which is a good thing!)

 
20 TDM - avec Will Vidler Trad 35m Classique
Flash placing gear. 8m of brilliant and sustained thin/finger crack (that I found quite challenging), and lots of "pretty good" crack climbing. We really should trundle those loose blocks in the bottom 1/3rd to make it an even better route. I thought this was tougher than Tranzister (though not as good).

 
Dim 5 Août 2018 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Bald Head Serendipitous Walls
23 Red Bellied Sportive 28m Excellent
Intimidatingly featureless on bullet-hard, slick rock... But surprisingly, with some technique, it's enjoyable and not too hard. The final rising traverse an intriguing end-cap to the pitch.

 
22 Thickening Agent Sportive 32m, 14 Super classique
About as good as a Blueys route can get at the grade (and quite tough at it, too), with generally pretty perfect rock up interesting scoopy features. Would be the trade route at any mainstream crag.

 
Mer 18 Juil 2018 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander
23 Saw-Toothed Snake Sportive 28m, 13 Classique
My favourite of the two "23's" here. Long, varied, great rock, exciting finish. I love the moves to gain the blunt prow at mid-height, and the powerful moves just below the steepness.

 
Sam 30 Juin 2018 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area New York East (Right) Side Upper Tier
23 Tower of Song Sportive 30m Excellent
Looks great, climbs great, but -unfortunately- the main crux is EXTREMELY contrived. Regardless, it's a pleasant thin face climb with worthwhile moves, and not too hard at the grade. The lack of a true anchor is very strange.

 
19 Nudity Sportive 25m, 7 Excellent
Great! Old-school face-climbing. A rational, independent line, up a nice slice of rock, with all manner of cool moves... though probably pretty challenging at the grade. I did this solely as a sport climb, but if you're climbing closer to the grade, consider bringing 2 x #2 cams to keep it sane.

 
Dim 10 Juin 2018 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road
Cassia Cliffs Where World
21 Dream Trader Sportive 30m Bon
I didn't enjoy the start (and found the profoundly cruxy crux to be clipping the first bolt out of the crack, and exiting the crack itself), nor the final 5m of sharp choss... BUT once on the traverse line, and up until completing the upper roof turn, this is very much a worthwhile route, and made a great warmup.

 
Dim 20 Mai 2018 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Dingo Creek
18 Centurion Sportive 25m Excellent
Basically a pure trad climb with bolts, though the climbing is genuinely good, and more interesting if you arbitrarily contrive yourself to climb only the arête direct at the top. Mostly good rock.

 
19 Pick Pocket Sportive 20m Bon
Some interesting exposed moves (the start is particularly worthwhile), but the key thin holds through the crux might not be long for this world.

 
21 Enough Already Sportive 32m Bon
A traddy start and some interesting moves when you first gain the arête, but a great deal of ho-hum and grainy rock after that. Not bad solely for a warm up, though.

 
Sam 12 Mai 2018 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone
23 Sensory Overload Sportive 20m, 12 Excellent
Upper echelon of Very Good. Doesn't look like much, but climbs really well, and is surprisingly sustained all the way to the anchor. Rock is good (for "steep blueys choss"), and moves are varied. Totally worth it.

 
Ven 11 Mai 2018 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone
25 He Said, She Said Sportive 20m, 11 Excellent
Also surprisingly good (though probably no as good as Sensory Overload) and probably more 24 than 25. A tough start (which is easier than it looks) leads to pleasant jugging, and a cryptic finale. Not as sustained as its neighbour.

 
Dim 6 Mai 2018 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Andy's Area
21 There's a Tear in There Sportive 10m, 8 Excellent
Surprisingly good. Climbs like an untrafficked Tianjara Falls route (in terms of rock quality), which isn't necessarily a bad thing. A few engaging moves, and steeper than it looks. Stick to the arete religiously for added fun.

 
Dim 6 Mai 2018 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls
24 The Sweetest Dream - avec Heath Black Sportive 20m Bon
Very easy for the grade (23?) but the admin-factor is a mission. The gymnastic steep climbing and exposed position is cool, but the rock is grainy razor-blades, in need of a healthy dose of hammering to get rid of what is -clearly- gonna go if anyone pulls on it. We accessed by a roped traverse from below "weakened worriers" on Bentravato, then up the start of P3 of Oedipus to the belay (via a carrot bolt (bolt plate!), #4 Cam and Giant Wire (substitute with Small-medium hex), and to clean we back-jumped the entire route and down-climbed Oedipus.

 
21 20 Hyperglycemic Hallucination - avec Heath Black Sportive 60m, 18 Pas la peine
P1 & P2 (linked) - As a route this didn't need to be bolted (it's not a line, or great rock, or going anywhere), but it's made worse by utterly no cleaning off the oodles of shale and choss, or any scrubbing of the very mossy grey rock, and catastrophic amounts of spilled epoxy everywhere. The first bolt on this route gets my award for "worst bolt I've ever seen in over 2000 different climbed routes", with basically everything wrong about it, held in by -what I can only assume- was a water-bomb filled with yellow epoxy lobbed in its general direction from the ground. Possibly the worst thing I've ever climbed at Sublime Point. Stay away... really, really far away. No seriously.

 
Mer 21 Mars 2018 - Sand River
Colosseum Area The Colosseum
17 Lions Sportive 7m, 4 Bon
Huzzah! Average rock, but actually kinda fun for the grade. Pocketses.

 
Sam 24 Fév 2018 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander
23 Multiplex Sportive 25m, 10 Excellent
Helping Neilio clean his route on my flash . Quite sequency at the grade, but with the beta is bang on. The opening gritstone arete is the highlight, but there are at least 3 worthy sequences that will demand something of you. Heartbreaker moves at the anchor.

 
Sam 24 Fév 2018 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Cooper's Crag
25 Airwolf Sportive 25m Excellent
True techo face, with a particularly intense lower half. The upper crimp crux isnt on the same stunning rock as the opening, but isnt too bad.

 
Dim 11 Fév 2018 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Shipley Lower
24 25 Unfork Ita Sportive 35m, 15 Classique
Brilliant! Great rock and climbing up a stunning series of linked features, and avoids the poxy, snappy boulder-problem of Nikita. Lots of challenging moves but also lots of good holds. Should be on everyone's hit list.

 
Dim 3 Déc 2017 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall
19 Thruxton Trad 57m Excellent
Flash on Neil's in situ gear. Quite good climbing up a proud corner-feature, with a few interesting moves, and not particularly hard for the grade. Unfortunately, the rock quality is too "grainy" to be a Piddo-esque classic.

 
Mer 25 Oct. 2017 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Gateway, Doomsday & Fort Rock Gateway
24 The Amateur Sportive 12m Bon
Perhaps not very hard for the grade, and certainly contrived... but fun as an end-of-day sunset lap, and it covers some pretty funky terrain on improbably good finger-jugs.

 
Dim 1 Oct. 2017 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Capricorn
22 Gary the Goat Sportive 20m Excellent
Interesting, but a very hard crux. Neil says there is a "stylish" way of climbing this at the grade (22?), but I was cranking at least 23 the way I did it. Nice rock and punchy moves.

 

Affichage de 1 - 100 sur 411 ascensions.

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