Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Dim 26 Mai 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ghidrah | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Orochi - avec Match | 55m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Awesome, continuous face climbing, with no obvious "stances" to break up the pitch. Seconding Mitch clean to exit the crag. Fairly sustained, though with no pronounced crux. Great rock, rad moves... the start is all time
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Lun 18 Mars 2024 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso The Wailing Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Sugar Mountain | 10m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Sharp little crimps, but everything is just so much more positive than you expect. A fun little ramble.
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Sam 16 Mars 2024 - Three O'Clock Hill | ||||||
22 | ★★ Rock Around the Clock | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Short, but intense and unlikely.
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19 | ★ Crocodile Rock | 14m | ★★ Excellent | |||
The best of the routes on this boulder. More technical and interesting than it looked from the ground.
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17 | ★ Rock N Roll is King | 12m | ★ Bon | |||
An okay face climb.
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23 | ★★ Rock Hard and Ride Free | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
An enjoyable, easy start, leads to a brutal, thin and technical finale. Exciting for a slab.
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21 | ★★ Let’s Get Rocked | 18m | ★★ Excellent | |||
A few cool moves when you first come around the arete, then victory jugs to the top.
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Sam 16 Sept 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | ||||||
22 | ★★ Dreadnought Variant - avec Simmo | 12m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Wow! What a line. For such a short route, this one packs it in with wiiiiild climbing on great rock. Linking this into P2 of Dreadnought makes this line a proper classic!
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Sam 16 Sept 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tannin - avec Simmo | 35m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Wow, amazing rock and climbing at the grade. How did I wait so long before trying this one? Aesthetic, technical and interesting.
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Dim 10 Sept 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Northern Walls | ||||||
23 | ★★ No Questions Asked - avec Heath Black | 25m, 11 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Super exposed arete climbing. Would be 3 stars but the rock is slightly less than perfect. Very technical, yet steep and pumpy.
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Jeu 15 Juin 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ghidrah | ||||||
25 | ★★★ King Geedorah - avec Match | 70m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Gentleman's Sit Flash. Flashed with a "gentleman's sit" at a no-hands rest near the top. Mitch's draws and beta (super key for the start) with little/no chalk on the route.
Wow... Just... wow! Like Subliminal, but for climbing connoisseurs. This thing is destined to be a classic, especially given the relatively easy approach. Probably 23/24 after the first 10m, but it simply never lets up its entire 70m length. Even the top "Grey rock" headwall is tricky and awesome. Best of all: it completely makes sense given the fact that there isn't really a "stance" to rebelay until you're almost at the top. Rope drag was fine as well. An utter joy to climb. |
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Dim 20 Nov. 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
17 | ★ Belayer Bait | 10m | ★★ Excellent | |||
In approach shoes. Way better and less chossy than it looks. This was actually quite fun.
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Mar 1 Nov. 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Falling Water Wall Lower Cliff | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Textures of Consciousness - avec Simmo | 70m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Facilitating Simmo's FA of this old-skool modern-day classic.
Beautiful rock, and radical climbing, with lots of rests between tricky moves. As a giant pitch, almost entirely on gear, this is kinda intense (could maybe use an extra bolt or 2?) Done with a Gentleman's Sit at a no-hands rest to avoid pinching the FA. Proper cool! |
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Dim 18 Sept 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Bald Head Serendipitous Walls | ||||||
23 | ★★ Unknown 5 (new for 2022) - avec Heath Black | 35m, 16 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Aside from a horrible start, and a silly anchor position, the other 30m of this route is enjoyable, sustained, an varied. There are a handful of hardish moves that probably make this 23, but for the most part it's continuous, rather than cruxy. The fact it tackles 3 rooves at the grade is pretty cool.
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Jeu 28 Avr 2022 - Bruny Island | ||||||
Cloudy Bay Hidden Zawn Maelstrom Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Green Dream - avec Jared Anderson | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classique | |||
A lot of this was sopping, so I chose to chalk and equip the draws on the way down. Like everything here, the quality was so high that crappy connies didn't impede the fun. Super classy face climbing.
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Mar 26 Avr 2022 - Bruny Island | ||||||
Cloudy Bay The Aviary | ||||||
24 | ★★ Powerful Owl - avec Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Short and punchee!
I probably had more trouble keeping it together through the start boulder, than the upper powerful, morpho section... but I did have Michael's good foot beta. |
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20 19 | ★★ Cheeky Monkey - avec Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz | 20m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Some cool, delicate moves... but I thought the crux was absolutely brutal at the grade. Not a bad introduction to the crag, though.
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Sam 1 Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Adventure Park | ||||||
22 | ★ Dividing Line | 14m | ★ Bon | |||
Sam 1 Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
22 | ★ Sneaky Snorkeler | 14m | ||||
The top section up the headwall is briefly Red River-esque.
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23 | ★★ Funky Venga Bus | 15m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Mega! Brilliant rock and wild moves once you leave the ledge. Always worth a lap.
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Mer 27 Oct. 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Dalpura Head Dalpura Wall | ||||||
24 |
★ Crankenstein
- avec
Heath Black, Match
| 110m | ★ Bon | |||
Some sections of great climbing, but marred by crappy carrots (albeit, lots of them!), plenty of bad rock, dirt, moss, and the really weird line it takes up the feature.
My recommendation for the pitch grades are 24, 24, 23. Pitch 1 COULD be great, but the key holds are very very temporary, and I had to climb it on eggshells for the flash. We placed draws as we rapped over it, and ticked up key holds, though I had no climbing beta for the send. I went for the onsight epic on P2, and had just stuck the upper slab crux (certain it was in the bag) when I ripped off a huge -unlikely- jug and whipped. After belaying Monty, I had to settle for seconding it clean taking off the bolt plates. Pitch 3 had a tough start, then simply oodles of delicate climbing on crap rock at about grade 21. All in all, a fun day out with friends (and not quite the epic we were anticipating) but far from classic. |
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Ven 22 Oct. 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Cottage Boulder | ||||||
24 | ★ Boys Buckets and Bumps - avec David Dearnley, Heath Black | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Surprisingly good! Would be a proper classic but for the no-hands rests at half height. Two engaging, long boulder problems in differing styles, split by a couple of ledges. Definitely only 24.
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Dim 19 Sept 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Solomon Area | ||||||
24 | ★★ Mossy Rections - avec Heath Black | 50m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Flash placing most of the bolt plates on lead, but I had the full beta spiel from Neil. Some sections of average rock, but quite sustained slabbing with no real shutdown moves. The mantle is ridiculous! The in situ carrots are in completely the wrong places almost the entire way up.
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Sam 28 Août 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Bald Head Serendipitous Walls | ||||||
24 25 | ★★★ Four Seasons - avec Heath Black, Ben Sanford, Stephen Varney | 45m, 20 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Lots of moves, but no shutdown crux. A climb of two halves, and both worthy. The upper section is hilariously unlikely.
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23 | ★★★ Fastest Gun in the West - avec Heath Black, Ben Sanford, Stephen Varney | 39m, 16 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Awesome. No bad rock, and never a boring bit as it meanders up radical, improbable features. Possibly the best route at the crag.
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24 |
★★★ Serendipitous Arette
- avec
Heath Black, Ben Sanford, Stephen Varney
1
24
30m
2
17
25m
| 55m, 14 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Awesome, unlikely climbing with some mega positions. Even staying on the arete direct this isn't too hard, but it IS brilliant.
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Mer 11 Août 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Area El Desperado Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Sport Unknown2 - avec Heath Black, Match | 25m, 7 | ★ Bon | |||
Much better than it looks. Some technical face/slab up fairly nice grey rock. The bolts are terrible, though.
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21 | ★★ Carrot Unknown3 - avec Match, Heath Black | 27m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Nice rock, and some great moves up an aesthetic face. The upper half is just good climbing.
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Sam 26 Juin 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bowens Creek Main Wall Centre | ||||||
23 A0 23 A0 | ★ Broken Blonde Gift - avec Jared Tyerman | 25m | ★ Bon | |||
Climbs better with a single point of aid than in the hideously bouldery free version. I had a bit of a crack at the crux, but was too shouldery for me at the moment. Otherwise: a nice start on great rock, and a fairly punchy pleasant section above the crux.
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Dim 14 Mars 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Duck Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Duck Tits - avec Heath Black | 16m | ★★ Excellent | |||
A few interesting moves, and an engagingly steep finale.
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Dim 7 Fév 2021 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Hoppy's Cave | ||||||
24 | ★★ Pull Ya Plonka - avec Magdalena de la Torre, Lucas C | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Sweet. Quite sustained, and on awesome rock, though not as steep as some of the stuff here. I watched Lucas and Magui go hard on this, then went for the lots-of-beta techo ascent, whereby it felt fine and fun.
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Sam 23 Jan 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Gateway, Doomsday & Fort Rock Doomsday Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Submission - avec Heath Black | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Flash but for a "gentleman's sit" at a no-hands stance. Probably a bit easier if you're my height, but the entire steep section at the top is quite sustained regardless. A fairly cruisy lower half, and a fairly intense upper half.
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Sam 16 Jan 2021 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Leather jacket - avec Stephen Varney | 18m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | |||
I really enjoyed the upper half of this, despite it being dirty as a pig in a wallow. With some brushing it cleaned up nicely. Has a rather gritstone-esque finish.
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Lun 11 Jan 2021 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
20 18 | ★★ Meritorious - avec Stephen Varney | 20m, 11 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Awesome! Despite some crap rock, this is a proper gnarly sustained stemming corner, with good technique a must. Seemed rather hard for the grade.
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Ven 1 Jan 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Adventure Park | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Echo Chamber | 35m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Route #4 of 4 of the Crag Classics. Intense, featured sloper climbing on some of the best rock of the crag.
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24 | ★★ Lazy Boy | 35m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Onsight but for the shared start with the righthand 24 (which I'd fallen off previously). Probably about gr22 to the top once you're past the shared start, and its some pretty outrageous climbing at the grade. The steepness is freaking nutty.
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25 | ★★ No End in Sight | 35m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Flashed with the full beta spiel from Monty. I also really appreciate being one of the namesake elements for this route
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Lun 28 Déc 2020 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||||||
The Gold Mine Sandpaper Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Air Active - avec Match | 25m | ★ Bon | |||
A few okay moves, but the start seemed hideously hard, and kinda sketchy. My skin was wrecked 3rd day on, and was hard to enjoy this.
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Sam 26 Déc 2020 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||||||
Tianjara Falls Bill James Testimonial Gully | ||||||
22 | ★★ Cornerstone - avec Viona Young | 18m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Great! Quite sustained through the orange-arete section (with a surprisingly tricky crux), then a pleasant slab to the finish.
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Sam 19 Sept 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Northern Walls | ||||||
24 | ★★ Not the Messiah - avec Heath Black | 38m, 17 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Certainly much more sustained than its neighbour, and with a proper hard crux at half height. Fortunately the ending is easier. I had to give this some welly to get through it. A route feels really long when you aren't ever "really" just cruising
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23 | ★★ Forever War - avec Heath Black | 40m, 18 | ★★ Excellent | |||
A nice long pitch of slabbing on generally good rock. The finale in particular is rather exciting through steepness and a wild mantle.
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Jeu 27 Août 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Tank Top | ||||||
23 | ★★ Tic Tac Tok - avec Heath Black | 23m, 9 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Once you get to the orange rock, this is genuinely good face climbing. The moves themselves aren't hard, but I suspect the counter-intuitive nature of some of the sequences might ruin a few onsights. Steeper than you think!
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Lun 8 Juin 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone National Park Main Cliff | ||||||
21 | ★★ Unknown - avec Heath Black | 20m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Increases in difficulty, following some cool features until they run out, then gets very thin (and also runout). Rock is a mixed bag, but it climbs well.
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Mer 15 Avr 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Red Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Chink in the Armour | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Some rubbish rock mars some otherwise very cool climbing. The lower roofy crux is quite engaging.
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18 | ★★ TrackerJack | 33m, 14 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Pretty challenging for the grade, but in the rarefied category of "surprisingly good quality for an easy route in the Blueys".
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Mar 14 Avr 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Orange Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Good Golly Miss Molly | 25m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Fairly cruisy technical face climbing on nice rock for the most part... but then the crux hits you, and it is bloody thin. Only just kept it together for flash.
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Lun 13 Avr 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Red Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Twigs and Bark | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Good, continuous slab climbing, with a few roofs to negotiate, and a rather demanding and intimidatingly blank finale.
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Sam 11 Avr 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Dingo Creek | ||||||
22 | An All-New Face-Climb | 35m, 14 | ★ Bon | |||
Some good sections of climbing once you're out on the face, but the dubious rock makes the whole experience somewhat trepidatious.
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Dim 5 Avr 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Smallpox | ||||||
23 | ★★ Unleash the Mighty Mongrel | 10m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Short and steep, but with a more involved and thought-provoking crux.
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Dim 29 Mars 2020 - Nowra | ||||||
Babylon Areas Occupied Territories First Canyon | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Axis of Evil | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Bloody awesome steep sloper-jug climbing on beautiful rock, but rather easy at the grade.
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Dim 22 Mars 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Gateway, Doomsday & Fort Rock Doomsday Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Cockorona - avec Heath Black | 25m, 9 | ★★ Excellent | |||
I hope you like slabs. Everything that is hard about this is contained in its slab moves. Fortunately I do like slabs
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Sam 21 Mars 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Spoilt Brats Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Ritalin - avec Ben Jenga | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Good climbing, but maybe not the classic it's made out to be (way too ledgy and roo many no-hands rests). I didn't find the mantles particularly hard, but the top five metres or so proved a bit of a challenge.
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Mer 18 Mars 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Echo Point Echo Point Walls | ||||||
24 | ★★ Storm From The East - avec Goshen Watts | 40m, 10 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Amazing position and climbing, though very very easy for the grade (even with the entire right side of the arete running with water). The top half is much steeper than you expect, with oodles of exposure and rather spaced bolts to make you FEEL the atmosphere. Placed draws on the way down and dobbed a few bits of chalk on the section that looked like it might the crux, hence: no onsight. Bring a minimum of a 60m rope to fix at the top anchors in order to reach the belay.
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Dim 15 Mars 2020 - Elanora Heights | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Cyrus The Virus - avec Lucas C, Magdalena de la Torre, Rob Medlicott | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Psyched! Flash placing draws (but with Lucas' constant beta-stream), an upper-echelon classic that is surprisingly sustained but somehow invites you to keep pushing a move higher through all the steepness. Bullet-hard rock, and a rad variety of moves, to a proper horizontal jugging finish.
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Dim 1 Mars 2020 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area | ||||||
22 | ★ Grandmas ta Flash - avec Heath Black | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Didn't find most of this too hard... except for the start boulder, which I doubt I would've flashed had Neilio not chalked up the key hold. Good climbing in a stop-start manner, but the rock deteriorates as you get higher.
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Dim 2 Fév 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath Colosseum | ||||||
22 | ★ Frankly Speaking - avec Heath Black | 35m | ★ Bon | |||
Sections of great climbing up a nice orange face, but rather choss in its current form, and the anchors at the top are in a rope-destroying position. Plan to rap this one, people.
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Dim 2 Fév 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath Valley Farm | ||||||
23 | ★★ Stolen Valor - avec Heath Black | 35m, 11 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Quite worthwhile, and general good quality rock once the initial crack is dispensed with. Sustained, with no real defined crux, but a few unlikely sequences, and a potentially heartbreaker finish.
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Sam 11 Jan 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Main Wall | ||||||
23 24 | ★★ Whodunnthat | 17m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Climbs much better than it looks, and is a surprisingly logical line. The crux is a super-funky bit of sideways deadpointing. A great warmup.
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Jeu 2 Jan 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Big Top | ||||||
22 | ★★ Hairy Vengeance - avec Heath Black | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Probably about grade 20 if you can crack climb. The finale isn't the crux if you can. At any rate, an awesome, landmark corner with varied and interesting moves the entire way. Super duper traddy.
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22 20 | ★★ FliX - avec Heath Black | 25m | ★ Bon | |||
Onsight from the crux up. A very hard crux fingery at the grade, and substantially harder than the rest of the route. Not as clean or sustained as its neighbours, but still worthy,.
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Dim 6 Oct. 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff | ||||||
21 22 | ★ Red Sleigh Down - avec Heath Black | 15m, 6 | Dans la moyenne | |||
A few good moves in the top half, rather rubbish in the bottom half. I liked the crux move, though. Be careful mantling the sandy ledge.
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Sam 31 Août 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass La La Land Area | ||||||
22 | ★ Shocking Pocket Monster - avec Will Vidler | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Quite intense... for the first 4m. Some interesting moves, but more like a boulder problem than a route. I linked this into Lego Land for a ~35m pitch to make it more interesting.
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Lun 22 Avr 2019 - Moonarie | ||||||
Checkers Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ The Passenger - avec Emil Mandyczewsky | 55m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Marred only by a very very brief crux, this is great taipan-esque climbing with a bouldery slimper start and a blueys steep finish. Not 25 as in the guide, and probably not too bad for 24, really... but worthwhile.
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Lun 15 Avr 2019 - Moonarie | ||||||
The Ramparts | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Fingernickin' - avec Emil Mandyczewsky, Gerry Narkowicz | 100m | ★★★ Classique | |||
P1 only, flash on Emil's gear. An amazing and intimidating looking overhanging crack, which actually climbs a lot easier than it looks. I went for the hideous, scrappy, burlfest approach rather than a stylish ascent, relying on my strength rather than poise for the ascent... but it worked
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Dim 14 Avr 2019 - Moonarie | ||||||
Flying Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★★ Swooping Pterodactyls - avec Emil Mandyczewsky, Gerry Narkowicz | 75m, 11 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Steeper than you think, and very Taipaneque. Sloper-love! P1 only on Emil's gear. No boring bits from when you leave the ground, until you turn the top overhanging crack. Low admin, and high quality. Get on it.
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Sam 6 Avr 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Atlantis | ||||||
19 | Subwoofer - avec Stephen Varney | 15m | Pas la peine | |||
An utterly nails opening boulder problem, followed by a tedious dawdle. Could be a worthy actual boulder-problem if you could be brothered bringing a mat.
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Sam 30 Mars 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Atlantis | ||||||
24 | ★★ The Diary of Ann Spank - avec Heath Black | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
The better of the two 24's. A boulder start with lots of rad steep climbing above. Continuing up the flake feature 2m above the anchor (to the logical, non-rope-destroying position for the anchors) makes for a cool finish.
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24 | ★ Rooky of the Year - avec Heath Black | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Pretty easy for the grade, and not as good as it's lefthand neighbour. The punchy moves to the anchor are memorable.
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22 | ★ Greg's Route - avec Heath Black | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
A hard start, with some interesting, funky climbing higher up. More of a full package than most of the routes here.
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Ven 28 Déc 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Atlantis | ||||||
25 | ★★ Herminator - avec Heath Black | 25m, 13 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Neil gave me the boulder-problem crux beta and it was mark an execute all the way. Very onsightable with our chalk on it, but might be worth waiting until I rebolt the deathiest death block start in the next few weeks (might even be classiquè then!). Steep face climbing on finger jugs, beautiful water polished rock, and intimidating exposure.
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Ven 28 Déc 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Wave Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Hang Five | 15m, 5 | ★ Bon | |||
No beta flash (draws were up)... kind of a dawdle until the very end. Not great, but its a warmup.
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Jeu 27 Déc 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Railway Cliff | ||||||
23 | ★★ Baboon Class - avec Heath Black | 30m, 13 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Bwah, quite sustained and bloody hard for the grade. Techy and tenuous and very long. A weird line, but a worthy one. Not sure about the new bolts near the start
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Mer 26 Déc 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff | ||||||
20 | ★★ Hark! The .. - avec Heath Black, Stephen Varney | 15m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | |||
A few tricky moves. The rock on this wall is really good for blueys easy routes.
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Dim 16 Sept 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Hat Hill Crag | ||||||
21 | ★★ Crackadoo! - avec Heath Black, Wade Stewart | 18m, 8 | ★ Bon | |||
A pleasant, easy crack, followed by a pleasant easy ramble up a linked series of corner-features. The moves turning the roof are quite interesting. About 3 grades easier than Fedora.
|
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20 | ★ Dinosaur Train - avec Heath Black, Wade Stewart | 13m, 5 | ★ Bon | |||
I liked the crux holds and moves. Face-y!
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Dim 26 Août 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Atlantis | ||||||
22 | ★ Histrionix | 23m | ★ Bon | |||
Other than the terrifying death-spinner bolts, this is really good climbing, and probably tough at the grade. With a rebolt, and a bit of hammering of the first few metres of choss, this would easily earn "very good" in my book. Lots of memorable and exciting moves and generally great rock.
|
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22 | ★ Eurotic | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
I liked the first half of this. The top is a bit contrived and predictable, though maybe I'm just salty because it was dripping wet. The lower half was briefly but intriguingly intense.
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Sam 18 Août 2018 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort - avec Jason McCarthy | 35m, 8 | ★★★ Classique | |||
No-beta flash, but Jason McCarthy had kindly equipped and chalked up the route for us. Doesn't look like much from the ground, but climbs brilliantly, and with some spicy spaced bolting that is just on the right side of sanity. Very technical, varied, wandery, sustained slabbing. Reminded me of The Belles, The Belles at Railway Cliffs (which is a good thing!)
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20 | ★★★ TDM - avec Will Vidler | 35m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Flash placing gear. 8m of brilliant and sustained thin/finger crack (that I found quite challenging), and lots of "pretty good" crack climbing. We really should trundle those loose blocks in the bottom 1/3rd to make it an even better route. I thought this was tougher than Tranzister (though not as good).
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Dim 5 Août 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Bald Head Serendipitous Walls | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Red Bellied | 28m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Intimidatingly featureless on bullet-hard, slick rock... But surprisingly, with some technique, it's enjoyable and not too hard. The final rising traverse an intriguing end-cap to the pitch.
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22 | ★★★ Thickening Agent | 32m, 14 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
About as good as a Blueys route can get at the grade (and quite tough at it, too), with generally pretty perfect rock up interesting scoopy features. Would be the trade route at any mainstream crag.
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Mer 18 Juil 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Saw-Toothed Snake | 28m, 13 | ★★★ Classique | |||
My favourite of the two "23's" here. Long, varied, great rock, exciting finish. I love the moves to gain the blunt prow at mid-height, and the powerful moves just below the steepness.
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Sam 30 Juin 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area New York East (Right) Side Upper Tier | ||||||
23 | ★★ Tower of Song | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Looks great, climbs great, but -unfortunately- the main crux is EXTREMELY contrived. Regardless, it's a pleasant thin face climb with worthwhile moves, and not too hard at the grade. The lack of a true anchor is very strange.
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19 | ★★ Nudity | 25m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Great! Old-school face-climbing. A rational, independent line, up a nice slice of rock, with all manner of cool moves... though probably pretty challenging at the grade. I did this solely as a sport climb, but if you're climbing closer to the grade, consider bringing 2 x #2 cams to keep it sane.
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Dim 10 Juin 2018 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||||||
Cassia Cliffs Where World | ||||||
21 | ★★ Dream Trader | 30m | ★ Bon | |||
I didn't enjoy the start (and found the profoundly cruxy crux to be clipping the first bolt out of the crack, and exiting the crack itself), nor the final 5m of sharp choss... BUT once on the traverse line, and up until completing the upper roof turn, this is very much a worthwhile route, and made a great warmup.
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Dim 20 Mai 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Dingo Creek | ||||||
18 | ★★ Centurion | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Basically a pure trad climb with bolts, though the climbing is genuinely good, and more interesting if you arbitrarily contrive yourself to climb only the arête direct at the top. Mostly good rock.
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19 | ★ Pick Pocket | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
Some interesting exposed moves (the start is particularly worthwhile), but the key thin holds through the crux might not be long for this world.
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21 | ★ Enough Already | 32m | ★ Bon | |||
A traddy start and some interesting moves when you first gain the arête, but a great deal of ho-hum and grainy rock after that. Not bad solely for a warm up, though.
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Sam 12 Mai 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Sensory Overload | 20m, 12 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Upper echelon of Very Good. Doesn't look like much, but climbs really well, and is surprisingly sustained all the way to the anchor. Rock is good (for "steep blueys choss"), and moves are varied. Totally worth it.
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Ven 11 Mai 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone | ||||||
25 | ★★ He Said, She Said | 20m, 11 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Also surprisingly good (though probably no as good as Sensory Overload) and probably more 24 than 25. A tough start (which is easier than it looks) leads to pleasant jugging, and a cryptic finale. Not as sustained as its neighbour.
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Dim 6 Mai 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Andy's Area | ||||||
21 | ★★ There's a Tear in There | 10m, 8 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Surprisingly good. Climbs like an untrafficked Tianjara Falls route (in terms of rock quality), which isn't necessarily a bad thing. A few engaging moves, and steeper than it looks. Stick to the arete religiously for added fun.
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Dim 6 Mai 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | ||||||
24 | ★★ The Sweetest Dream - avec Heath Black | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
Very easy for the grade (23?) but the admin-factor is a mission. The gymnastic steep climbing and exposed position is cool, but the rock is grainy razor-blades, in need of a healthy dose of hammering to get rid of what is -clearly- gonna go if anyone pulls on it. We accessed by a roped traverse from below "weakened worriers" on Bentravato, then up the start of P3 of Oedipus to the belay (via a carrot bolt (bolt plate!), #4 Cam and Giant Wire (substitute with Small-medium hex), and to clean we back-jumped the entire route and down-climbed Oedipus.
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21 20 | ★ Hyperglycemic Hallucination - avec Heath Black | 60m, 18 | Pas la peine | |||
P1 & P2 (linked) - As a route this didn't need to be bolted (it's not a line, or great rock, or going anywhere), but it's made worse by utterly no cleaning off the oodles of shale and choss, or any scrubbing of the very mossy grey rock, and catastrophic amounts of spilled epoxy everywhere. The first bolt on this route gets my award for "worst bolt I've ever seen in over 2000 different climbed routes", with basically everything wrong about it, held in by -what I can only assume- was a water-bomb filled with yellow epoxy lobbed in its general direction from the ground. Possibly the worst thing I've ever climbed at Sublime Point. Stay away... really, really far away. No seriously.
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Mer 21 Mars 2018 - Sand River | ||||||
Colosseum Area The Colosseum | ||||||
17 | Lions | 7m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Huzzah! Average rock, but actually kinda fun for the grade. Pocketses.
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Sam 24 Fév 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander | ||||||
23 | ★★ Multiplex | 25m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Helping Neilio clean his route on my flash . Quite sequency at the grade, but with the beta is bang on. The opening gritstone arete is the highlight, but there are at least 3 worthy sequences that will demand something of you. Heartbreaker moves at the anchor.
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Sam 24 Fév 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Cooper's Crag | ||||||
25 | ★★ Airwolf | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
True techo face, with a particularly intense lower half. The upper crimp crux isnt on the same stunning rock as the opening, but isnt too bad.
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Dim 11 Fév 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Lower | ||||||
24 25 | ★★★ Unfork Ita | 35m, 15 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Brilliant! Great rock and climbing up a stunning series of linked features, and avoids the poxy, snappy boulder-problem of Nikita. Lots of challenging moves but also lots of good holds. Should be on everyone's hit list.
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Dim 3 Déc 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Thruxton | 57m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Flash on Neil's in situ gear. Quite good climbing up a proud corner-feature, with a few interesting moves, and not particularly hard for the grade. Unfortunately, the rock quality is too "grainy" to be a Piddo-esque classic.
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Mer 25 Oct. 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Gateway, Doomsday & Fort Rock Gateway | ||||||
24 | ★ The Amateur | 12m | ★ Bon | |||
Perhaps not very hard for the grade, and certainly contrived... but fun as an end-of-day sunset lap, and it covers some pretty funky terrain on improbably good finger-jugs.
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Dim 1 Oct. 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Capricorn | ||||||
22 | ★★ Gary the Goat | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Interesting, but a very hard crux. Neil says there is a "stylish" way of climbing this at the grade (22?), but I was cranking at least 23 the way I did it. Nice rock and punchy moves.
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