Ascensions dans Australie comme Hang dog par Paul Frothy Thomson

Bah, not winning Fell off a key hold well-above the cruxy start that for some reason was covered in sand. Its okay, future ascensionists, I've cleaned it up for you now

The start is hard, but super rad when you figure it out. The roof is strangely easy, given its absurdity, and the climbing above is relatively cruisy.

Totally worth your time!

Amazing, sustained, technical face climbing, and bloody hard for the grade! It took me quite a bit to sort the two main cruxes (I had to approach them very differently from the FA), and I took a huge whip from the very top going for a big link attempt. Beautiful rock, wild position, unique movement.

A bit more of a gnarly warmup than I was expecting. I pumped out on the last moves of the opening roof crux, but otherwise had no trouble with this route.

The start and roof boulder is great rock and wild moves, and the headwall is classy face climbing. Totally worthwhile addition.

Finally decided to suss this route to the top. The moves to gain and turn the lip are mega, and the grey-rock face climbing above involves some complex and gripping sequences for a first ground-up lap.

Probably the most annoying part for me, is having to lap the lower 24 section of this route to get to the hard bit

Clean repeat placing draws to the roof (easy 25 to here) then I explored the upper section. The move to turn the lip is very much the 27 bit, but the section above it is probably another 25 in its own right (albeit with good stances before the hard climbing). The upper section is excitingly runout when placing draws, in classic Emil style

Back-to-back-to-back thinness on positive edges. The technical finale is the best bit. No time for another shot.

Another stacked one. The opening boulder gave me a fair bit of grief initially. I went through it twice, only to bungle easier moves higher up. Complex face climbing.

2 shots. Couldn't keep it together at the mid-point crux on either lap. A stacked upper half.

Not clean. Great to have something new to do (all on gear) when you've done everything else here, but it is really contrived (and kinda hard to decide what exactly is "off route").

Regardless, it has some rad, powerful moves. With my busted wrist, there was a single move I couldn't do today, but otherwise it seemed "achievable"... maybe.

2 short early morning sessions. I really liked this, but there was a single move I never did -Maybe I need crisp conditions to use the slopiest sloper that ever slopered? Beautiful, inspiring rock, and more sustained than I expected for a slab

Headlamp EOD attempt. Great! After the inconsequential start, this is rad and engaging all the way to the topout

Exploratory lap. Mega climbing with a bouldery crimp crux. Not particularly scary -though all the bolts are in the wrong spot, its fine once the draws are on. I could probably do this this trip, but I think id rather get on more Arapilean-esque routes.

Took a monster whip falling off the upper crux on my onsight-attempt. Then had a few more less dramatic falls before I pieced it together. A briefly thin and reachy sequence, but otherwise not tooooo hideous.

Almost a classic, but that its essentially about gr24 with a v6+ crux. Night time attempt, 2 shots, awesome second lap but still couldn't link that crux, unfortunately. The rest of the route is great, though.

One day I'll tick this

Super fun start and finish, but I find the crux rather nails. An easy way of making this less cruxy (at the same grade) is to traverse left around the little crux boulder, since you end up back on-line by the next bolt anyway.

Just the one TRS lap. Very technical slabbing. More arete-y than I expected. Rock is a mixed bag of quality.

Did all the moves (with lots of falls) to the last bolt, and I think I could link this much on lead within a sesh or two...

But I never made any upwards progress in the 1.5m from the last bolt to the anchor, and didn't really have an idea for how to do it at the grade.

Just the one exploratory lap.

Some cool moves, but probably the most contrived bolted route I've ever been on, and hardly aesthetically inspiring. The rock is also rather soft (and probably not destined for long term survival).

Only the start move gave me any real grief (that is; once I'd figured out how I'd attack the upper crux). If I came back, and can sort the start, I think I could do this next visit

2 attempts. Super rad.

Unfortunately, I couldn't touch the initial boulder move (never stuck it once) but linking from the 2nd bolt to the top was no real trouble. Great little sustained number, with lots of body tension trickery on some proper slopers. A joy to climb.

Amazing climbing.

Most of the route gave me no real trouble (the moves around and past the upper roof to the last bolt are awesome!) but the only way I could do the top crux is via the undercling mono (I couldn't use the sharp crimp) and -though I could do it- it just felt dangerously tweaky without some targeted training. One to come back for (with some preparation )

Decided to try linking the Monteith Memorial Traverse (L-R 24) into P1 of this for a 50m enduro-monster (belayed from the cozy ledge). Turns out it's okay with some rope management, but quite the undertaking!

I found P1 of this very tough placing the draws, and absent chalk, though all of the moves went okay (ableit with a few exciting falls to piece them together).

If I'm back here belaying people on Thin Line, I'll probably try for this linkup as an arbitrary challenge.

Just the one re-familiarisation lap (and to show Mitch some of my beta). Also surprisingly good.

2 shots. Surprisingly good -this thing seemed to have been untrafficked for months at the time of my attempt. Short but intense in the upper half. On my second shot, I fell off "fingering" the finishing jug. Probably 26, IMHO.

Just the one shot. My onsight attempt ended with my hand on the end-of-crux jug (but never really latching it) but then I never managed to do any better, even after hanging on the rope/working the move.

Great climbing on awesome rock, but super cruxy.

Awesome! Way more interesting and arete-y than I expected. Kinda a bit scary, even. Just the one exploratory lap (with a lot of time spent piecing it together) but there was still one sequence near the top that I never really figured out. Totally my style, for sure!

P2 only. Wow! Every bit 25 IMHO. Very sustained for the first half.

Sustained, technical, and demanding face climbing leads (eventually) to a No-hands rest, followed by some punchy steep climbing to finish. Cool!

I fell off the low-crux, sorted it out, and came back down to try again... only to fall off it again.

I'm going to use the excuse of the heat, and my own weariness by this time of the day

Having said that, I fell off about 3 more times on the upper moves, so I was never going to get this one done straight-up

2 attempts. I never quite managed a single move turning the rooflet, but the rest of it was fine after I'd properly sussed it. Seems like a move that would be easier if you're short (on a Blueys slab... crazy, right???).

Despite just being a "direct" on The Mind Boggles, this has a tonne of new and intriguing climbing, and is definitely worth your time.

2 Attempts. On my 2nd I managed to get to the last 5m body-squeeze/offwidth section with a single rest, but never really managed to work out the last few metres. To me, with my physiology, it seemed like I was going to need to invert? But lacking more big gear, I was too intimidated to commit properly to it. I'll have to come back with bigger gear, and maybe a few more skills.

The rock is a mixed bag, but it's outweighed by the wildness of the climbing, which is varied, brutish, and intimidating.

I used 7 x #4, 2 x #5 and 1 x #6 for the roof part of the crack. I could probably have done with another #6 at least, and perhaps something bigger (purely for the purpose of working the last part of the roof).

2 attempts.

Awesome, but demanding. Very varied climbing, and steep as hell up a beautiful prow feature. Dynamic and tension-y. Hard at the grade.

I was pretty happy to get some mega links on my 2nd shot (linked to the crux throw), and to refine my beta for the following moves.

I'd love to come back to this one, but I need to be prepared to leave my draws on it, because equipping it (and unequipping it) sucks.

3 shots. I hated this on the first lap, but as I unlocked the beta, I came to appreciate it more and more.

Despite not being my style (essentially, two hard boulders separated by a rest), the rock is bullet, and the moves are pure.

Though, the start point is kinda dumb.

3 days of efforts, but I never had the power endurance to keep it together for the crux. Will probably be 28ish, I think, but I'm happy for someone else to score it. Probably easier if you're tall.

3 shots. Came here today fairly optimistic of a send (or at least a good showing) only to struggle quite a bit with the final headwall. The start was definitely a bit damp, but the rest was fine despite the weather. Left my draws on it, though, as it's so radical it deserves some more efforts.

Still, even if I'm struggling with a high-gravity day, was radical to hold the ropes (and scream and shout) as Luke crushed the route on a super-unlikely 3rd lap of the day.

Flashed to the anchor clipping hold, but couldn't clip the anchor despite hanging on it for ages. Was too frustrated to go up again.

Essentially, this is grade 24 to the clipping hold, or grade 26 to clip the anchor. Up to the clipping hold, this is a really fun route (thuggy, juggy, and steep!), but the nails anchor clip, and the fact it finishes in the middle of nowhere, is a bit dissappointing.

3 shots. The last EOD effort ended at the final bolt. This thing is all class. Sure, it's a bit sharp, but the line and the moves more than make up for it. The opening boulder is tough but funky, and the runout headwall finale is an appropriate bookend. I'll definitely be back.

Fell off at the last bolt on my 3rd shot. The final few bolts were wet, and -frankly- I was pumped I kept out of the cave for the raddest (though contrived) send effort.

A proper classique roof, with bloody great rock. The infamous opening boulder isn't harder than V3, so don't be put off by it.

2 more shots, both to the top boulder problem. It wasn't until the end of my 2nd lap, that I really put together the top sequence in a way that suits me. Hopefully next time.

Another really funky, fun route! But, damn that final boulder is gnarly.

2 shots. A very strange, but really radical route, with a surprising amount of climbing in the first half.

I had a lot of trouble putting together a viable sequence for the traverse crux. When I finally sorted out a repeatable sequence, it felt boss !

Some awesome, sustained climbing on great rock.

Unfortunately, a super key hold has snapped off between the 3rd and 4th bolt, making this move now grade 1 billion (I found a mcdougall around it, or you could simply traverse across from SCC higher up). The main slab section is gnarly and sustained, but freaking awesome. I never really figured out the move from the last bolt to the ledge (perhaps it traverses left to the arete?) I'd probably be willing to give it another go in the near future.

Aaand the wheels fell off... tiiiired.

Pitch 1 was cool steep bouldering with funky knee-bar trickery, and the onsight went well... until it didn't... but I tried bloody hard - a funky cool little pitch.

Pitch 2 is more bum-rock climbing on runout carrots, but quite bouldery and more sustained. I made it to the last of the hard face moves, but couldn't figure it out (even off the carrot) and couldn't aid past it... by this point my head-game was shot from the day, so I downclimbed and bailed.

I used a 0.5 cam at the start of P2.

With a 60cm runner on the anchor at the end of P1, there was no issue linking these pitches together.

3 shots (via left hand finale). Felt about 60% sure I'd stick it on the 3rd lap, but it was at that point where the wheels fell off. Awesome, powerful, dynamic roof climbing. Took me a bit to figure out the sequences. Will be back.

2 shots. Still haven't quite latched the dyno (getting closer, though), but the move immediately after is my crux. The rest of the route felt easier than a year ago, but still lots of work to do.