Ascensions dans Australie par Paul Frothy Thomson

2nd Clean at EOD to exit the crag. The route of the day for sure! Very sustained, unerringly thin, and probably the best rock I've seen on this wall. Probably entry-level 25 due to its relentlessness. Very complex moves. Really, the only negative is that the last 6m or so is not great rock.

2nd shot. Very thin, with some proper spicy runouts. Had a really good First shot (draws on, no beta) until I broke a footer off in the final crux, while doing the sequence correct . Went down next lap, but not without some fiery remarks. Stacked hard sequences with no rest. Maybe 25/26? Hard at the grade at least. Rock is a mixed bag.

A rather stacked middle section of thin moves! Maybe hard at the grade (24ish?). A long pitch with continuous climbing and no camp-out stances. Obviously untrafficked (with all the usual caveats in such circumstances) but totally worthwhile. Technical!

Second clean. At the grade, this is a pretty outrageous position and climbing up cool features. Rock isn't perfect, and access is a bit tricky now that the rap-tree has burned down, but for an easy route its worthy. Scoopy.

4th shot. Struggled with a wet crux after the rain, and it took a couple of laps to sort my beta, but I felt like a boss when it went down. A pumpy juggy start leads to a radical and nutty roof boulder finale, followed by a mantle that is juuuuust hard enough to give you some grief.

Second clean. Seconding Neil to exit the crag after a day on this. Awesome, technical, sustained face/slab climbing, with a heart-breaker slab finish right when you're trashed.

An end of day play on this old nemesis of mine. On the 2nd lap I linked to the last move of the crux, then went from below the crux to the top. Maybe one day I'll link it

2 shots. A really rad route with a brief but intense crimp-crux. The continuation up the seam (from Cobra-Kai Connection) and the top headwall above the crux are wicked. On my 2nd shot I climbed everything clean in a push (27ish?) but for the crux, which I can do, but its so thin and sharp that I don't really enjoy it. Haven't decided whether or not I'll try this again.

2nd shot. A very hard bouldery boulder-problem through the first big roof leads to easier pumpy climbing. I may have struggled to keep my pejoratives under control after sticking the crazy crux move by the skin of my teeth (and the tips of my fingers).

2nd shot. Quite sustained, and the two roofs aren't actually the hardest parts! The first lap took me ages to work out how to get established above the top roof, until I gave up trying to use my feet and just campused 5 moves on slopers... Went down solidly on the 2nd shot with that beta.

2nd shot. Once I tidied this up, this proved to be a cracker of a route. Short and powerful, and with no boring bits.

Done in good style: in a single push from the ground up, freeing as we went. Though the day was proper arctic, and this thing gets no sun, the frigid conditions were crucial to sending the first pitch (which is extremely sustained face climbing, with a few gnarly boulders - I had to power-scream my way up it for the Send).

Pitch 2 is the money, with a rad exposed bouldery start, then oodles of chugging along up funky features with some patches of bestest rock evah. Pitch 3 is weird giant tufa blob jugging, but the last few metres aren't great. P4 is a hard slab. P5 is awesomely technical face climbing that goes on forever (and has a very baffling crux). P6 is harder than it looks (due to having no footers at the grade), and I only just kept it together for the send at the end of the day.

This would be a proper "3-star classic" multipitch (for the Blueys) but is marred only by Pitch 4 being pretty average, and the fact the most of it is on a semi-detached pillar means only the first 3 pitches feel exposed. It'll probably never get repeated, but I regard it as worthwhile.

Freed Pitches 1, 2, and 3 on lead. Seconded (clean) Pitches 4, 5 and 6.

Exploratory lap on my old bolted line out here (one of the first routes I bolted back in the day!). Still very hard, and a few holds have broken off since I was trying it. Gnarly gnarly bouldering. Crazy to think its 28ish for about 6m of climbing.

Once I stopped trying to be tricky and resigned myself to just muscling my way through the crux this went surprisingly easy. Good value for such a short route.

Its all in the sneaky draw beta. Two totally different ways of climbing the boulder-problem finish, and both are quite challenging. Warm up those fingers.

Kinda demanding. All of the holds are quite good, but this is strangely difficult to link. The all-points dyno start is just the warmup for everything to come. 2 completely opposite ways of doing the crux, and I cant decide which is easier.

2nd shot. A very bouldey (but rad) start, and an extremely challenging finish on some thin grainy crimps, with a rather cruisy middle. Probably harder than "Road to Nowhere".

2nd shot. Good value for money. I can only do the start with an all-points dyno, but the money is the bouldery pocketed finish.

The section of Circling Vultures is pretty cool, and with more work that dyno could be more consistent, as before I don't like the section on North-by-Northwest (as in, I just don' enjoy climbing it).

This felt more achievable than ever before, but the crimp move above the top flake crux gave me oodles of grief as before. Despite not usually being regarded as a "crux", it's the move that is the barrier-to-entry for me sticking this out for the Send.

Still can't do the last (hardest) move of the crux A bit too bouldery for me, I guess. Although I do enjoy the opening boulder problem off the ground.

Repeat. Reclimbed with a view to ticking the crux pitch - which I did! Crazy windy today, which added some extra spice to all the steep thugging.

Not my favourite route here due to being rather stop-start and with sections of bad rock. The mid-height crux is intriguingly thin.

Some rubbish rock mars some otherwise very cool climbing. The lower roofy crux is quite engaging.

Pretty challenging for the grade, but in the rarefied category of "surprisingly good quality for an easy route in the Blueys".

2nd shot today, 4th total. Power-screamed my way up this route. I hadn't actually equipped the top half, just left a stash of draws clipped into the last bolt, so I got to send it placing draws and brushing on lead, as the upper 20m was still wet.

A proper soaring line, and way more overhanging than you might think! Some sections of real choss (challenging to negotiate without dislodging on your belayer) but outweighed by the quality of such a proud bit of trad.

I fell off the first (wet and dirty) moves of P1, came down, and went again to send the pitch. The upper half is worthwhile, but the start up the thin crack is quite sandy and terrible.

P2 is the money, and probably tonnes of fun with 4+ #3's to actually protect it. As it was I had only a single set of large cams, and spent most of the time being quite terrified, and relying on inferior gear to protect surprisingly gymnastic moves through steepness. It probably made it all the more memorable, really.

I slung the giant bollard at the top for an anchor (since I had no gear left).

2nd shot. Despite this being totally unchalked, I onsighted past the crux, only to throw to the one bit of rail that wasn't a jug. Came down and reclimbed 5min later, onsighting from the 5th bolt up. I liked the crux sequence on thin edges with big moves (and pockets!).

I didn't realise that this was a mixed bit of climbing, and just climbed it on the bolt (singular)... I though it seemed rather deathy this way. A very obvious independent start to Ninja Princess... just bring a few cams.

Fairly cruisy technical face climbing on nice rock for the most part... but then the crux hits you, and it is bloody thin. Only just kept it together for flash.

Some pretty gnarly steepness, but I found the moves to gain the top headwall absolutely nails at the grade -like, grade 23-type nails- and only just managed to onsight it. Not sure whether I missed something key -there wasn't a drop of chalk on this- but I had to work as hard on this as I did on the gr24 around the corner. Thoroughly worth doing as an extension to Twigs and Bark.

Good, continuous slab climbing, with a few roofs to negotiate, and a rather demanding and intimidatingly blank finale.

One more lap. For some reason this turns into a water-streak overnight, and I have to wait until after midday before its dried out enough to climb it... right when the sun is blasting this cliff,

Could be okay with some TLC from the FA, but as it is the crux is disintegrating grainy crimps, and the in-situ hangers on coach-screws are an eyesore. Despite clearly being untrafficked, the climbing on either side of the crimp crux was quite worthwhile, and enjoyable.

Clean Repeat. A bit stop-start, but it has some interesting moves from time to time (especially the rightward traverse down low).

1 Lap piecing it together and chalking it up. Extremely thin, sustained face climbing for 30m, with an easier upper 20m of steepish finger jugs. Very technical and with some committing runouts.

Felt much stronger this visit than when last I was on this route. The crux down low is still tough, but the rest of the route was always in the bag (even when it didn't have a drop of chalk on it). Good climbing up an amazing line.

Some good sections of climbing once you're out on the face, but the dubious rock makes the whole experience somewhat trepidatious.

No chance with the waterfall soaking the face. This is an awesome bit of techo face-climbing on beautiful rock, and thoroughly worth another lap. The finale is rad. Maybe a bit on the easy side?

Short and steep, but with a more involved and thought-provoking crux.

Um... Not the warmup I was looking for. Pumped out at the crux and had to send 2nd shot. Short, but steeeeeep at the grade.

Repeat attempt, not clean today. Sure, it was pouring and conditions were rubbish, but I REALLY struggled with that mantle/pocket crux today.

Repeat attempt, not clean today. Slipped off the moves to the anchor as they were running with water -yes, it was bucketing down.

An interesting and punchy finish, though the dynamic start is not without entertainment value.

2nd shot. Once we'd cleaned the gunk off the route and given it some love, it turned out to be oodles of fun. Huge moves between good holds. Short and powerful.

Mostly cruisy and pleasant, but damn that crimp crux is hard. The others had tricky ways of doing it, I ended up settling for just square-on crimping the little edges and wailing.

Ugh. Could be "okay" with some TLC, but at the moment this is just bouldering in a sandpit. Deathy start to a briefly hard boulder, then much steep grovelling between sandy breaks. Not recommended.

Bloody awesome steep sloper-jug climbing on beautiful rock, but rather easy at the grade.

Fell off the start and couldn't be arsed. Much better than its neighbour, but the chalkless opening boulder got me.