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The Stables Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Kyle Dunsire Craig Muir Tim Mayer Patrick Reynolds Matt Short Adrian Kladnig Jarred Jordan

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. The Stables 30 routes in Area

Summary:
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Saison

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.726193, 151.058937

Limitations de l'accès

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

hérité de New South Wales and ACT

approche

Drive to the end of Schofield Pde, Pennant Hills.

Park near sign, walk through gate for 100m to a track on the left, now signposted as "Berowra Valley National Park Schofield Fire Trail". Follow this for approximately 200m till it heads right towards the oval. Instead of heading right go more or less straight ahead for 50m, turn left at a rock cairn and follow more cairns through scrub to top of little rocky section. Zig down this section till you arrive on the top of a cliff, walk right to a gully. Head down this and you come out onto Cave Wall. There are numerous other ways of getting here this just seems to be the easiest.

éthique

These areas are in Berowra Valley National Park, so dogs, fires, rubbish, rock and vegetation damage and other activities prohibited under the Act are forbidden.

© hérité de The Stables
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Chicken Stuffing

Straight up featured wall, 3RB's, walk off

Start: In access gully.

FA: rod wills, 2007

14 Sportive 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Jazz Maverick

The steep proud line, punchy climbing through nice rock, starting in the slot under the roof from the ground, Do not use rock cairn, begins by climbing the balancy short slab and out first rooflet.

FA: Patrick Reynolds, 2007

26 Sportive 10m
3 Ethos Down Pour

Start as for Jazz Maverick and throw out right to join Approaching Showers an awesome link up.

26 Sportive
4 Project 1 - Pat

The line of rings 3m right of 'Jazz Maverick'

SportiveProjet 10m
5 Approaching Showers

Moving up the obvious start into the blocky flake feature, with a big move up left to continue following the leftward rising rail joining the finish of Project 1 through the runnel feature, no lower offs, top out and walk off boulder to finish for full value and walk back down to belay area or back clean from last ring. Caution if topping out, easy climbing but runout. Take care when cleaning.

27 Sportive
6 Taken

Start 2m left of 'Mufasta'. Climb up into some burley crimps through to some easier climbing to finish on two lower offs.

Entr.: Tim Mayer

FA: Jarred Jordan, 2021

26 Sportive 10m
7 Thoroughbred

Start up Mufasta for two bolts, and then traverse left finishing up 'Project 2'

FFA: Timothy Mayer, 18 Juil 2021

22 Sportive 11m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Mufasta

Up to sharp arête tending left at top. 3 U's to lower offs.

FA: Andrew Morrison & Stephen Hawkshaw, 2002

19 Sportive 10m
9 Bluntman

A balancy start to a pumpy finish up the left feature. 3 U's to lower offs.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw

20 Sportive 8m
10 Chronic

Straight up the overhanging arête. 1FH, 2U's to lower offs.

FA: Hawkshaw

19 Sportive 10m
11 Carrots Are Vegetables

Obvious corner crack left side of wall, enjoyable jamming, top out to right to avoid dirty exit

FA: Greg Hislop & Kylie Barrett

16 Trad 8m
12 The Player of Games

Tending left up juggy face, 3 Rbs to lower offs.

Start: 4m right of CAV.

FA: rod wills, 2007

15 Sportive 9m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Clipz

Up short orange face to jugs, 3Rbs to lower offs.

Start: Shared start to TPOG, tending right at first bolt

FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2007

14 Sportive 10m
14 Suspect Zero

Up slab onto orange face topping out over the buldge. 3 RB's to lower offs.

FA: Rod Wills, 2005

18 Sportive 11m
15 Yoink

A good climb up the prominent flake in middle of wall. 3 U's to lower offs.

FA: Andrew Morrison

14 Sportive 10m
16 Yerba

The direct start to 'Yoink'. Hard fun moves up to meet 'Yoink' at second bolt.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw

20 Sportive 10m
17 Bunsen Honeydew

Easy moves on pockets leads to a big move past bolt to break. Finish up wall. 2U's to lower offs.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw & Andrew Morrison, 2002

18 Sportive 10m
18 Blabbering Fool

Start 1m R of Bunsen Honeydew. Up nice arête. A little contrived, so try and avoid BH and the tree, otherwise take off 4 grades

FA: Tim Mayer, 8 Juil 2017

23 Sportive 10m, 3
19 Wretched Carrot Ladder

An unspeakably wretched enterprise consisting of what look like bashed in non-glued stainless carrots 0.5m apart a bit right of 'Bunsen Honeydew'. Practice? Madness? Boredom? To quote the late John Ewbank: "urinate at the base of it and continue".

M1 Artif 8m, 10
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 Moments Like These

Mantel above the first bolt then up the crack to lower offs.

Équip.: Brendon Flanagan, 20 Fév 2020

FFA: Chanté Fisk & Brendon Flanagan, 6 Déc 2020

19 Trad mixte 2
21 Dissociative Fugue

Step up onto boulder in middle of wall and follow line of rings to the top. 3 RBs to lower offs.

FA: Mark Page, 2005

18 Sportive 10m
22 Psychopath

Start 3m R of DF at hard bouldery moves. Nice jump move, then traverse up and L passing 3 RBs.

FA: Tim Mayer, 24 Juin 2017

24 Sportive 10m, 3
23 A Day at the Beach

As for Psychopath for the first 2 RBs, then break out R passing another on some nice bouldery moves.

FFA: Tim Mayer, 11 Mai 2019

25 Sportive 10m, 3
24 Constant State of Confusion

Thin crimpy slabby goodness. Head up slab to thin move above scoop. 2 UB's to lower offs.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

24 Sportive 8m
25 Unknown left

3 metres right of CSOC. Up over bulge to slab. 3 Rings to lower offs.

FA: Unknown, 2000

21 Sportive 9m
26 Unknown right

Up over bulge following arete to finish on shared lower offs. 3 Rings to lower offs.

FA: Unknown, 2000

21 Sportive 9m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
27 So Far So Good

Straight up pockets tending left at final bolt and thin move. 4 FH's to lower offs.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw

21 Sportive 10m
28 40 lashes

2m rt of SFSG

Start: Follow pockets behind tree, 3RB's to lower offs.

FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2007

17 Sportive 8m
29 Mohammeds teddy Bear

2m rt of 40 Lashes

Start: Straight up juggy face tending left at the top, 3Rb's to lower offs.

FA: Rod wills, 2007

17 Sportive 8m
30 Toetality

Up and out through roof of cave, clipping second ring before heading to lip to avoid grounder. 4 RB's & U's to lower offs.

FA: Andrew Morrison & Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

21 Sportive 8m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
14 Chicken Stuffing Sportive 8m
Clipz Sportive 10m
Yoink Sportive 10m
15 The Player of Games Sportive 9m
16 Carrots Are Vegetables Trad 8m
17 40 lashes Sportive 8m
Mohammeds teddy Bear Sportive 8m
18 Bunsen Honeydew Sportive 10m
Dissociative Fugue Sportive 10m
Suspect Zero Sportive 11m
19 Chronic Sportive 10m
Moments Like These Trad mixte 2
Mufasta Sportive 10m
20 Bluntman Sportive 8m
Yerba Sportive 10m
21 So Far So Good Sportive 10m
Toetality Sportive 8m
Unknown left Sportive 9m
Unknown right Sportive 9m
22 Thoroughbred Sportive 11m, 5
23 Blabbering Fool Sportive 10m, 3
24 Constant State of Confusion Sportive 8m
Psychopath Sportive 10m, 3
25 A Day at the Beach Sportive 10m, 3
26 Ethos Down Pour Sportive
Jazz Maverick Sportive 10m
Taken Sportive 10m
27 Approaching Showers Sportive
? Project 1 - Pat SportiveProjet 10m
M1 Wretched Carrot Ladder Artif 8m, 10
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