Sydney Metropolitan Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Sydney Metropolitan 10,057 routes in Region

10 1 4 3 5 6 9 8 7 11 2 12

1 Hornsby and the North 2 Sutherland 3 North West 4 Northern Beaches 5 North Shore 6 Sydney CBD 7 Eastern Suburbs 8 Inner West 9 Western Suburbs 10 Colo River 11 South West 12 Royal National Park

Summary:

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Saison

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.803565, 151.103597

résumé

Convenience, convenience, convenience!

description

What Sydney lacks in quality it makes up in quantity and convenience - very few large cities boast this much climbing and bouldering. And while the number of world class roped climbs is relatively low, many of the routes are well worth doing, and there is an abundance of high quality bouldering.

And with world-class destinations such as the Blue Mountains and Point Perpendicular close by, it's self evident that Sydney is one of the top climbing cities in the world.

Limitations de l'accès

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

hérité de New South Wales and ACT

1.1. Hornsby and the North 1,216 routes in Region

11 14 10 12 15 20 13 3 2 19 4 6 8 7 5 16 1 17

1 Galston Gorge 2 Berowra 3 Turner Road 4 Crosslands 5 Du Faur walls 6 Mt Ku-ring-gai 7 The Motherlode 8 Ku-ring-gai Chase 10 Eagle Rock 11 The Drive In 12 Flat Rock 13 Jerusalem Bay 14 Sewerside Slabs 15 Eleanor's Bluff 16 Mount Colah 17 Fishponds 19 Sandy Cave 20 Craftys

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.620101, 151.186843

1.1.1. Galston Gorge 162 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.665276, 151.084509

description

The old Original Crag at the bottom of Galston Gorge offered some good routes, but neglect and increased traffic in the area makes belaying near the road a worry. There are now plenty of classic boulders and routes at the top of the gorge on the Hornsby Heights side.

approche

From the north side, bottom or other direction as described in sub-areas.

1.1.2. Berowra 119 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.603305, 151.147728

description

Nice walls, some awesome climbing on top rock - about 3 mins walk to face from end of road. Nice open track, easy to find. Gets lots of sun all day. shade early morning and late sunsets. Watch out for brown snakes, particularly in summer. They've even been known to rest in pocket holds on some climbs. Don't forget to take bolt plates, certain climbs still require them.

approche

Drive to the end of Wideview Rd. Follow firetrail down for 150m. After the firetrail veers right, go left down a concrete section. The trail swings around to the left. You can walk up a good track below Pimple buttress and along base.

Alternatively, to access south end of crag (e.g. Bullet Hole Wall), follow the bike track opposite No. 90 and follow the track off to the right. Follow to a ramp/scramble down to bring you out at Boundary Rider and Wall Thing on your right.

historique

A Berowra specific climbing guide can be found here http://www.cragx.org/Berowraguide.pdf . However new routes have been set and certain routes have been abandoned or cut off.

1.1.3. Turner Road 35 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.598374, 151.135208

résumé

Bouldering area in Berowra Heights, mostly easy problems on good rock with a quick approach.

description

This small cliffline runs along the west side of the Turner Rd fire trail, only 5 minutes walk from the end of Turner Rd. There are some good quality easy problems and plenty of development potential including a few harder routes. As this is a relatively newly developed area, there is still a bit of dirty and suspect rock - take care.

Limitations de l'accès

Located on Crown Land outside of Berowra Valley NP.

approche

Park at the end of Turner Road. Follow the fire trail, staying left at the first fork. Walk along the fire trail for another 50m or so, passing a walking track on the right, until you see some boulders on the right side of the fire trail. Another 10m on from where these boulders start, turn left into the bush and descend via a break in the cliff line (possibly marked by a cairn). Climbs start right of here and are described right to left.

historique

Unknown history. There are a few chipped holds towards the end of the crag alongside a bunch of machine head glue-ins which were installed prior to 2010 (Emergency services used to do training here however would not be using carrots).

1.1.4. Crosslands 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.628000, 151.105838

description

This area is on private land, so if you are climbing keep a low profile and take your rubbish with you. Also ask landowners before going http://www.crosslands.org.au/contact-us/. Small crag with some good slabs, a few easy sport routes and some interesting Trad lines. A few great climbs for beginners learning to sport climb.

Limitations de l'accès

This area is owned by Crosslands Youth and Convention Centre, so you should consider contacting them before climbing there. http://www.crosslands.org.au/contact-us/

approche

Head down Crosslands Rd (off Galston Rd). Head along the dirt road and park before the gates that head down to the Conference Centre. If you start going down a steep windy road you have gone too far. Head north along the fire trail on the ridge top then take the right hand trail after 400m. Continue along to cliff top 250m. Descend at either end.

1.1.5. Du Faur walls 34 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.653262, 151.095517

description

Another micro crag in NW sydney

East facing cliff so should be shady from about 12pm in summer, and about 11am in winter.

© (rodw)

approche

Park in cul-de-sac at the end of McKay Rd where The Crest turns off. Follow the fire trail (McKay Fire Trail) on the left side of the cul-de-sac and walk down the fire trail for what feels like days (approx 15min walk), until you reach a rock outcrop at the end of the fire trail.

Take a small track on the left for about 50m till it goes down the hill on the left. At this point walk along the cliff end (which is on your left) for about 30m, then turn right (east) across the narrow ridge (find cairns if you can) and head down hill to the left (North east) passing cairns, continue to follow the cairns as you head down hill towards the access gully.

A large Y-shaped eucalyptus tree and a cairn on top of a wall mark the access gully (this is almost straight above Ramp to Success on the Micro Wall). Go to the base of the eucalyptus tree. From there don't try and go straight down, rather, keep going north along the cliff and down a much easier descent which will get you to Suffragette wall.

Walls and routes are described right to left, roughly as you come across them.

© (rodw)

1.1.6. Mt Ku-ring-gai 203 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.627035, 151.123960

description

The area was rediscovered by Rod Wills in late 2003 although a couple of manky carrots were found at a couple of locations on Motocross wall. Rod and his cousin Vanessa started development at Fossil wall and moved north. The area has been set up well with few scary clips and would suit budding leaders. There are also enough harder routes to keep climbers entertained and potential for new lines.

Drive to the end of Beaumont Road, Mount Kuring-gai and park. See location map for various wall locations.

Midges!!! Make sure you pack your insect repellent otherwise you will levae looking like you have chicken pox. The Midge season is from November to April but you may find them outside these times.

Limitations de l'accès

It is apparent there is significant evidence of aboriginal occupation in some of the caves of this area, if you chance upon a cave full of shells, or any other clear indication of previous use do not disturb it. Tread lightly as with any bush area you visit and access issues will not develop.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

approche

Approach differs depending on which area you are heading to. See details for specific area. To get to most crags Gundah Ridge track is the main route in. Cairns have been setup along the tracks to mark where to turn off. However people have been knocking the cairns over, so beware.

1.1.7. The Motherlode 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.638337, 151.107162

résumé

Similar in character to Mt Kuringai, but a bit less popular

description

A series of three clifflines with development only on two. The lower cliffline is in a pleasant setting above the upper reaches of Berowra Creek, and generally consists of very solid rock. Since the area has received only a little traffic, routes may need a quick brush in some cases.

Limitations de l'accès

May be located in Berowra Valley National Park, although it was developed before the area was gazetted as a National Park. Historically there was an annexure for the powerlines as well.

approche

For the lower cliffline (Lasseters Reef), park at Crosslands Reserve then walk upstream (south) for about 10 minutes to a rocky creek crossing under the powerlines. Cross this and immediately head up the hill for 100m or so to the left end of the wall.

For the upper cliffline park at the end of Somerville Rd, Hornsby Heights. Walk down the road toward Crosslands Reserve for a few hundred metres before turning down the first fireroad on the left. Follow this to the power tower at the end, then follow the rough track under the powerlines for about 100m to the top of the cliffline.

There is a very rough track connecting the two areas.

historique

Discovered independently by two parties in 2011, a few months apart.

1.1.8. Ku-ring-gai Chase 482 routes in Region

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.637142, 151.220357

résumé

This area includes the National Park plus other nearby crags. See access below for rules regarding the National Park.

Limitations de l'accès

Rock climbing and abseiling will continue to be allowed at a designated site in Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park at Barrenjoey Head. Applications for the authorisation of these activities at other suitable sites within Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park may be considered where safety, visitor access, environmental, and cultural heritage assessments have demonstrated that the activity can be sustainably managed and will not impact significantly on park values.

éthique

ACANSW is working to reopen suitable areas in the National Park. If you want to be on the working party - established March 2024, please get in touch.

1.1.9. Thornliegh 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

description

Needs to be deleted Don't bother

1.1.10. Eagle Rock 47 routes in Crag

Summary:

Style inconnu, Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -33.566412, 151.235216

description

Great little exposed crag which acquires some extra seclusion points from it's unorthodox access. Moving around the crag is a very vertical exercise. Many of the climbs offer some pretty spectacular exposure. Can be quite warm on the faces even in the morning. In the sun most of the day but this can be escaped for those willing to pull (or jam) a little harder in the caves above.

approche

A short paddle from Brooklyn boat ramp heading east. You can't miss it.

historique

First recorded climbing here was by the Wondabyne Climbing Club, who aided the main crack line through the roof in the late 1970s. Phil Stallard led the roof pitch with his leg in a cast, having broken his leg some weeks prior.

1.1.11. The Drive In 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.547240, 151.196430

description

This wall is so close to the road you can belay out of the boot! It is all ring bolted sport climbs situated inbetween the F3 freeway and the old pacific hwy near broklyn. If you like technical slabs and the occasionlal steep route this is it. Can get some run off and dust on the slabs.

Limitations de l'accès

From the Old pacific hwy/Brooklyn Road intersection, head south on the Hwy for 400m and you should be able to see the walls on the western side of the road.

approche

Open door and walk 5.2m. Climbs described left to right.

1.1.12. Flat Rock 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -33.573299, 151.141250

1.1.13. Jerusalem Bay 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Psicobloc

Lat / Long: -33.590943, 151.195300

description

Medium height jump rock with solid starting ledge to some terrific climbing.

Limitations de l'accès

National park area. Take only pictures, leave only footsteps. Try not to cut yourself on the oysters, time your visit with the high tide. Boat or hike in

approche

Accessible by boat from Hawkesbury River, about ?40mins. A short (2.5k) walk down from Cowan station along the Great North Walk track. A shorter walk exists off the Pacific highway, much steeper and very limited parking.

1.1.14. Sewerside Slabs 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.548619, 151.230030

résumé

Fun slab climbing right next to your car!

description

Previously known as "Suicide Slabs", but renamed due to the stench that wafts up from the toilet block whenever the wind blows the wrong way! This is a great little north facing crag, offering probably the best friction climbing in the Sydney region, on generally good rock and with zero access.

The crag is superb in winter, but is a bit of an oven in summer. The main attraction is the huge slab of rock leaning up against the hillside, which offers five superb bolted slab routes (with grades between about 14 and 18) and a stack of top rope variants as well. The routes in the centre are generally easier, with harder routes to the left. There are also two routes on the right hand side of the block, one on the left, five routes on the smaller block behind the main block and a project (by Julian Anderson) on the wall behind the blocks. Unfortunately none of these routes compare in quality to the routes on the main slab.

There is also some bouldering on the wall to the right of the main block.

approche

Pacific Highway (NOT the F1) to the Brooklyn exit. Take this and follow the signs to Brooklyn (about 10km). Once in Brooklyn, turn right onto Bridge St, left onto George St and follow it to the end (to the Parsley Bay boat ramp). The slab is obvious up and to the right. The crag is also easily accessible by public transport - the Hawkesbury River railway station (on the Newcastle line) is only about 300m from the crag.

historique

The crag was originally developed (sans bolts) by the incredibly prolific Wondabyne Climbing Club in the mid-late 70s, but was rediscovered and the bolts put in sometime during the 80s.

1.1.15. Eleanor's Bluff 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.579425, 151.245176

description

Small beach just south of Eleanor's Bluff

approche

Approach by boat

historique

Unknown if climbed before but found by accident and bouldered in December 2016

1.1.16. Mount Colah 6 routes in Area

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -33.655478, 151.111898

1.1.17. Fishponds 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.692214, 151.084823

approche

Park at the end of Manor Road and follow the Great North Walk down.

1.1.18. Never Never 28 routes in Area

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Style inconnu

résumé

A selection of quality climbs falling within crown land and recreation reserve, a serene and stunning spot, beckoning the call of the wild. Fire Wall through to Liquid Sunshine catch morning shade and are best over the prime and shoulder climbing seasons when temps are bellow 25, as it quickly becomes a sun bowl with little reprieve. Hawkesbury Lookdown through to The Rocket Surgery (the Neverfail side) is like a different world with morning filtered sun till around midday, shaded all afternoon with light sea breezes presenting options for summer sends.

description

Never Never throws everything it has at you in a compact featured, sector. Bring your A game as the going gets tough rather quickly!

Contrasting that is Neverfail Ridge line, nestled high above the waters of Berowra Creek with pockets of good climbing and more of a range in style and difficulty.

Never Never Give Up! Get outside! On ya bike! Tough test pieces, slab, roofs, steep and sweet sweet surrounds await.

approche

An easy 20 minute (5km) bike ride or approx 55 minute walk along a mostly flat fire trail bordering Marramarra NP.

historique

First discovered by Ado on a hiking mission over the winter of 2016 with some intial investigations into the climbing terrain.

Spring 2019 saw phyche from Al and the momentum got the cogs turning and new routes added rapid fire.

With the bearing heat of summer fast approaching, developments eased, only to renew with vigor early 2020.

With ideal temps stubborn projects would be sent and all the people of Never rejoiced! :p

1.1.19. Sandy Cave 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.608368, 151.146583

description

New bouldering area in Berowra, there is a large cave area and additional areas/blocks in same location

approche

Access is at the end of Alan road, trail down to the cave is very faint and not the easiest to find but it is there as there is a trail to a storm water breather located at the top of the water fall, to get there you walk down the dirt road behind the houses and then go into the bush behind number 77 and 79 and find the trail down to the storm water breather pipe it is nearly straight line down to this, the track is basically shortest route to the water fall, once you reach here you are at the top of the cliff so be careful, follow the top of the cliff along to the right and you will eventually come to the end were you can the get down to the bottom and begin exploring. I would recommend mosquito repellent as it is likely they are around. the area is well shaded so should also be fine to access during summer.

historique

I have been walking around the are for a few years now looking for good bouldering places an have only found the odd good spot here an there with limited climbs etc but this area looks to have potential so I have posted it here to try and get some people interested in helping me develop it. It Looks to be a nice cave located in the creek deep in the valley area which has been occupied from time to time by homeless people and kids. It has fairly easy access and at first glance looks to have good potential and looking forward to developing this area, I have not decided on a name yet but I will get there, I welcome local climbers to help develop this area and, grade as I am time limited these days, looking forward to see the development of this area.

1.1.20. Craftys 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Psicobloc

Lat / Long: -33.581052, 151.137795

résumé

The best deep water soloing around. Good deep water and great high steep wall. What more do you want?

approche

By boat, about 20mins away from berowra waters.

où dormir

Hire a house boat and moor at the base of the wall.

1.2. Sutherland 1,534 routes in Region

50 53 52 5 6 51 55 4 2 7 54 3 9 1 57 8 58 18 17 15 19 47 20 21 41 40 16 22 23 59 10 11 12 13 37 14 56 39 60 38 49 48 30 45 26 27 25 61 24 63 46 28 31 32 29 43 36 34

1 Bald Face Point 2 Oatley Park 3 Lugarno 4 Alfords Point 5 Alfords Point Bouldering 6 Picnic Point 7 Lom crag 8 Illawong 9 Little Moon Bay 10 The Cathedral 11 Bangor West 12 Lost World 13 Koorabar 14 Kayak Krag 15 Yates Yard 16 Bangor Blocs 17 Bonnet Bay 18 Walrus Rocks (bouldering) 19 Bonnet Bay (Bouldering) 20 Janali 21 Spark Boulders 22 The School (Bouldering) 23 Jannali Reserve 24 Barden Ridge 25 Trackside 26 The Ridge Boulders 27 Lucas Heights 28 Needles Causeway 29 Heathcote Weir 30 Sleaze cave 31 Sierra Road 32 The Wastelands 34 Bluebell 36 Bass and Flinder's Point 37 Villas 38 Prices Cave 39 The Fish Boulders 40 Dead Mans Wall 41 Hill Top Bloc 43 Sandshoes (bouldering) 45 Camp Wanawong 46 Cranberry Crags 47 The Wing Cave 48 The Forgotten Cave 49 Woronora Lookout 50 Revesby Rocks 51 Party Palace Cave 52 Ducktropolis 53 Star Trek 54 Carss Park 55 Moonah Road Crag 56 Below Sealevel 57 Whale Boulders 58 The Leap 59 Cape Solander Kurnell 60 Climbfit Kirrawee 61 Khazm 63 Lost treasure

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -34.025631, 151.086285

résumé

The Shire has a long history of climbing. Accessible cliffs, routes you do not have to die for and a variety of locations keep the suburbanite climbers happy. Because of the not so steep nature of much of the sandstone in the area, a lot of routes are of a moderate grade making it a good place for new climbers to develop their craft.

description

Most of the climbing can be found on the rim of the hills, overlooking the Woronora River and Georges Rivers. The rock is the usual Sydney sandstone but the Cathedral has a a weird type of stone that is a refreshing change from the norm.

Limitations de l'accès

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

approche

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train.

historique

Climbing has been going on since the 1960's in the Shire. Gossip has it that an old doctor used to play around the cliffs on the Woronora River in those early years. Joe Friend was also known to climb here back in the 1970's. You can find some old pitons, pin scars at odd locations such as the Heathcote Bridge, Menai area and at the Cathederal. It was common that Scouts and at times the Army regularly frequented places like Menai, Lucas Heights and Alfords Point.

The 1980's saw a steep rise in development with climbers from the Loftus Crew, Anthony Scharnbel,Damian Taylor and Bruce Stevens. A big influence in the 1980-1990's was David Barnes. Dave developed several new areas and put up scores of routes across the shire, including the classic routes at Rainbow Wall and Ruthless Babe and a handful of others at Heathcote. He has now moved onto Tassie. Mikl of course had flurries of activity at the Cathedral, Bonnett Bay and Heathcote when he was working with Homer Simpson at the Lucas Heights Nuclear facility. A Young Graham Fairburn made a good contribution to the Cathederal, before growing muscles at Nowra.

In the last ten years Jason Lammers has added new routes as well as re-bolting the old routes, lower offs and rings have been added to most shire crags now. What will you add? DB

1.2.1. Bald Face Point 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -34.000373, 151.102870

description

An old Crag that originally used to be a sandstone quarry that has some new climbs recently bolted, this is a good little crag for those new to the sport or the indoor climber that wants to experience outdoor rock-climbing for the first time. Bring bolt plates as sets of carrots recently added on top for Rappelling in and are positioned to practice setting up and equalising anchors. Best to bring a brush as it gets a bit sandy after rain

© (nmonteith)

approche

Bald Face Point Reserve is at the end of Stuart St in Blakehurst. The cliff is directly below the lookout after the carpark. Walk down the track to the left leading down to the sandstone steps.

© (nmonteith)

1.2.2. Oatley Park 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.985350, 151.056823

résumé

Very pleasant easy trad climbing in a scenic location perched above the Georges River.

© (nmonteith)

description

Very pleasant easy trad climbing in a scenic location perched above the Georges River. An area that has a lot of rock, but unfortunately not a lot that is climbable.

All of the listed routes are located below Webster's lookout and are marked with a white square. All have top rope options, often a single mature carrot and nearby trees.

All routes described left to right (facing the cliff). Head down just right of lookout (looking out) to find climbs on left. FixedFirmament, GanbaGanba and HeaveHo are lowest down the Hill, easiest way down is below EagerBeavers.

© (nmonteith)

approche

To get to the crag, find 'Oatley Park' in the street directory, and follow the one way circuit (Christensen Drive) until you find Webster 'Lookout' (signposted). Limited parking at lookout. All of the listed routes are located below this lookout.

© (nmonteith)

historique

Climbs described, photographed and given names during 2021 lockdown by TomBes.

© (nmonteith)

1.2.3. Lugarno 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.990798, 151.044563

description

Absolute roadside cragging! A generally slabby and unfashionable cliff with a fair selection of mid to hard grade routes. Some of these routes were retro-chipped in the 90s. Most routes are now covered in dirt and lichen . Be VERY CAREFUL not to drop rocks onto the road which is literally centimeters from the crag. Routes described right to left facing wall.

© (nmonteith)

approche

To get to the crag, drive south down Forest Rd, 'Lugarno', and stop about 200m from its end. The cliff is located on the right hand side of the road (watch out for cars). For access to top of cliff park at the very end of Lugarno parade. Then head down short track to the right and cross over bike track. Keep going and trend left through bush to navigate past small cliff, another 20m or so of bush bashing gets you to the top of Kim's moon route.

© (nmonteith)

1.2.4. Alfords Point 53 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Bloc et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.981563, 151.031624

description

This area was known as a Scout abseiling hangout for many years. Because of its weird access off the freeway it avoided the crowds for years. In the early 1990s the area was visited by Chris Wallace, Dave Barnes and the growing crowd from the new local gym at the time, The Rocknasium. This is when many of the established routes were done. A day underneath the high voltage wires, on a cliff a little larger then the normal Shire stone, with ten second access from your car, makes for a good day out.

approche

The crag is located on the eastern side of Alford's Point Rd, south of the Alford's Point Bridge. The new bridge and road works have changed access. Park in Maxwell Close (if you are big group with a lot of cars please park along Sylvan Ridge drive at the intersection rather than crowding Maxwell close, to respect the residents' space) and walk back (north) along the bike path along Alford's Point Rd for a couple of hundred meters until you see a thin concrete pillar 1m high in the bush with white and blue stickers, and extensive views out east over the river. The crag is below. There is an easy scramble down to the base at the southern end of the cliff (right hand, facing river). Sometimes there is a hermit living in the cave near "Green Frogs and Liver", he is not too scary so say hello! The crag is located within Georges River National Park.

1.2.5. Alfords Point Bouldering 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.979418, 151.025610

description

This area is CLOSED due to new restrictions imposed by the Sutherland Shire Council stating that " The features that make a good climbing crag are also the characteristics of a good Aboriginal shelter. A good shelter provides protection from the elements and is dry when it rains. A level earthen floor makes for a comfortable place to sleep. If the sandstone surfaces are hard and not crumbly then it will be more suitable for artwork and hand stencils."

This is the law, failure to follow these laws will only result in more crags being closed. A great little overhang made of hard Sydney sandstone plus a couple of slabs in a nice bushland setting overlooking the Woronora River. 'Problems' here are long, pumpy with some interesting top outs, power endurance fitness required here. Home of 'Love Gun' (V10) - one of the best roof problems in Sydney. Recently featured on the bouldering DVD 24-8. The crag gets the morning shade.

© (secretary)

approche

Location: Find Stringybark Place in Alford's Point, and after about 50m park on the left near a group of boulders. Go down the hill with this feature on the left, after about 25m find a faint track that goes left and down, another 35m and a forked tree at a rough cliff line appears, go left along the cliff line and the sexy cave will appear.

© (secretary)

1.2.6. Picnic Point 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.980648, 151.008550

description

Lots of top rope potential, with many cliff top anchor points. There are a few ringbolted sport routes and a couple of old carrots.

Limitations de l'accès

This is a National Park. Keep a low profile.

approche

Park near the speed camera on Henry Lawson Drive. Cross onto the southern side of the road and walk 50m East. A series of tracks should be visible in the scrub near the road. These tracks all lead to the cliff top. There are 2 or 3 points along the face that can be scrambled down to the cliff base.

historique

The original development here went on in the early '60s with scout groups from Revesby and Padstow. The main area was on the other side of the ridge from Blackwall where the cliffs were higher. Climbs were top-roped and used for abseil practice for climbing and caving. As this was the early '60s not many climbs were led but there was not much around in the way of gear - steel crabs and laid nylon and manilla ropes. None of the routes were named but pretty much everything that could be climbed was, starting with the cracks. There may have been a more recent wave of activity in the 1980's and 2000, but nobody has come forward with any details.

1.2.7. Lom crag 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.985896, 151.018626

résumé

Park opposite No.6 Lomandra Pl, Alfords Pt. Walk down the hill

description

An impressive cave with some ultra hard projects, a couple of mid grade sport routes and one trad roof crack. The cliff faces south-west and is in the shade for almost all of the day.

1.2.8. Illawong 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Style inconnu et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -34.004834, 151.042365

résumé

Easy access Variety of climbs well shaded in summer

© (Zack)

description

This has to be one of the easiest accessed cliffs in Sydney. A dozen very doable and well protected routes for the after work, suburban fix. Skin is a must do, if you can do it?

Limitations de l'accès

.

approche

Drive about two thirds of the way down Redman Ave in 'Illawong'. Park opposite number 31. The cliff is located about 10m directly off the road, with descents at either end of the cliff

1.2.9. Little Moon Bay 52 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.994080, 151.033531

résumé

If you're looking to challenge good technique then these climbs will keep you on your toes.

approche

Drive down to the end of Palmer Close in Illawong, park at the bend on the river side past house No.8 It's then a minute walk down, entry is directly opposite No.10/12 head down a make shift track and over a fallen dead tree when confronted with a large boulder go left between the split rock and under the slab. To rap in go opposite No.8 and walk out onto the large rock slab and down to the cliff edge, below where you'd be standing there are two anchor points a set of bolts and a set of carrots to abseil in on

1.2.10. The Cathedral 115 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Bloc et autres styles

Lat / Long: -34.023072, 151.030601

description

Online guide http://sydneyclimbing.com/The+Cathedral.html

The Cathedral just off the banks of the Woronora River in the heart of the Shire. It's is possibly the highest crag in Sydney town with a height of 30m in some sections, with great rock its hard to think why the crag does not get more visitors. This crag has something for everyone from 3star 28's, great sporty little 16s, and possibly the hardest trad climb in NSW.

© (bundybear)

approche

If coming from Sutherland, drive over the Woronora Bridge over the river, then take the next left into Akuna (as for 'Bangor West' crag), follow this until it turns in to Menai Rd, turn left again into Pyree street, follow this until you are at Bangor school, then left again into Shackel Rd - this goes under a bridge. Park 20m past the bridge at the culdesac (4 Shackel Road, Bangor GPS -34.0217, 151.0296) - don't drive through the open gate and down the dirt road - that is private property. Now follow the track (marked with red and white tags) down the hill for 5 minutes to the top of the crag, then scramble down the right side.

Some people may perfer the original access, this involves a longer but easier (flatter) walk along the river.

"

To get to the crag, park in Prince Edward Park in Woronora (or walk down the hill from Sutherland railway station). Cross the footbridge, turn left and follow the track along the river for about 1km. Although you walk past the right hand slabs first, they aren't as obvious as the main wall, which looms above the track about 20m to the right. Bash up through the jungle to the base of the crag. Estimated walking time: 30 min"

© (bundybear)

1.2.11. Bangor West 101 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et autres styles

Lat / Long: -34.024293, 151.034299

résumé

Another sweet cliff line below the main wall.

© (glenn_9)

description

This crag and these routes have been climbed over for more than thirty years. It remains, I am sure, the central point of Shire climbing and the climbing nursery for the area. Why? Easy access, lots of bolts and a close proximity of routes at mild grades, means the general climbing public are cared for. The trade routes like Andrews Bulge (16), Fixed Steps (19), My Girl (23) and Whorl (17) are extremely popular. A novel way to enjoy the crag, or a future goal to achieve, is to tick all of the routes in a day. I have noticed some of the new routes are old routes from the 1980’s. I think every bit of rock has been well and truly climbed on but try telling that to a kid with a drill seeking immortality. Being popular also means it attracts the rubbish so please take your energy bar rappers and your belay slaves with you.

approche

If you are a big group with a lot of cars please respect the residents' space and park along Adaluma Ave rather than crowding Arunta Cl. Or take the frequent buses from Sutherland train station which stop 4 minutes walk away on Menai Rd.

To get to the crag, go to the end of Arunta Close, and walk down the fire trail between the houses. The descent gully is just to the right as you walk towards the river. It's a hop, skip, and a jump to get down, so be careful!

Alternatively if you can't get down the gully safely, walk to your right for about 50m till you are behind a 2 story white house with with a pool behind glass fence. There is a very easy gully below here.

historique

Leo Stanners wandered down the hill whilst waiting for a mate who is always late.

© (glenn_9)

1.2.12. Lost World 27 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.024555, 151.036944

description

One of the taller and better sport cliffs in The Shire, and shady for most of the day as it faces south. Routes are generally quite sustained, with superb rock quality and interesting sloping pocket features. The downside is the vegetation and the small amount of routes. Seepage can be a problem after heavy rain. Recent rebolting and rebrushing has brought this cliff back to it's former 80s glory. Top-roping is very easy to setup, most routes you can reach over the edge to ring bolt anchors. This cliff requires traffic to stay clean - so get out there! Better guide and topos on: http://sydneyclimbing.com/The+Lost+World.html

approche

To get there, find Koorabar Road in Bangor and park at the southern end of the street. Walk to right edge (west) of little cleared park (through a gate) to fire track behind houses. Walk west along this track for about 60m to a locked gate (on your right) to a diagonal access lane, walk down the hillside (left) to the edge of the cliff. Locate a small corner about 20m west (R facing downhill) with a cairn atop, descend down ramps (Screaming Pretty is halfway down) and turn right at the base and walk 30m to main cliff.

1.2.13. Koorabar 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.025173, 151.040324

description

Fun little cliff and cave on the far eastern end of the cliff-line south of Bangor. Good cracks, roofs and general thuggery.

approche

Park at southern end of Koorabar Road in Bangor (same carpark at Lost World). Walk directly south to powerlines that run down to river far below. Find well-worn walking track heading downhill between boulders under the powerlines and follow this down and left. After 50m or so if turns R and goes down a small set of steps. Continue for about 20m after this then leave the track and head uphill to cliff, skirt R along base of mini cliff to arrive at 10m high cave with painted route name initials at the base of some short steep cracks.

historique

Like many of the cliffs in the Shire, this one has been climbed on sometime in the past. Did they lead these routes or top-rope them? Who knows. There are two rusty carrots on top.

1.2.14. Kayak Krag 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bloc et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -34.026282, 151.039358

résumé

A fun stop if you want to boat in to a Riverside crag. Lots of new boulder potential

description

We acknowledge the Dharawal nation as the Traditional Owners of this unceded land and recognise their continuing connection to land, waters and culture. We pay our respects to their Elders past, present and emerging. Treat it like it is sacred as it is.

A short river crossing is the minimum boating needed to get to this small cluster of cracks and slabs. Bit sandy, bring a brush. New boulder and route potential if you want to do the cleaning. A microadventure crag.

The cracks are obvious from the water. the slabs are about 20m to the right (facing in from the water) and up a bit. right next to some cut steps to a small cave.

approche

There is almost certainly an on foot approach via a longer track. But for a full tick arrive via the water. If you want a bush approach why wouldn't you go to cathedral? Woronora quays is directly opposite. Follow the power lines over and pull up near the yellow sign. There are many other nice places to set sail from for a nicer longer row in.

éthique

No bolts. Everything is bouldering or trad. Ground up bouldering is a thing right?

historique

There are some old staples in rocks and chipped feet leading into small caves. Maybe done by the scouts back in the day?

1.2.15. Yates Yard 26 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.013135, 151.042302

description

Bit of fun for everyone. Lots of variety from big slabby walls to overhanging boulders. Faces west and gets plenty of light for great arvo climbs. Mostly beginner to intermediate climbs, but definitely potential for more advanced routes

approche

Park at the northern most point of Yates Road at the trail head for Illaroo Bluff. Veer left down BMX trail for 100m until obvious left turn off. Follow for 30-50m until at cliff face. Approach down slope to the right where Main Slab Wall is found.

historique

Just off a trail from popular lookout, so likely climbed before but no history found.

1.2.16. Bangor Blocs 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.018279, 151.046091

description

Two good blocs overlooking the traffic on the Woronora Bridge

approche

Park at the East end of Menai Rd in Bangor, walk down the driveway at the north side and downhill 30m. The driveway continues staright down hill, and a dirt track veers right. Take this right for 30m then left left and up the hill. 4wd or walk for 3 minutes to power pylon. The track veers back south, go for 60m to a small cairn and bash down the hill 50m to Boulder A. Boulder B is 40m R of Boulder A. http://www.thecrag.com/photo/BlocMap.jpg

historique

Develped by Cam

1.2.17. Bonnet Bay 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -34.012030, 151.050373

résumé

Short single pitch sport climbing with insanely short access. Very kid friendly.

description

Bonnet Bay is one of the original and best Shire crags. It is a small area but many of the routes are top notch quality. Lean Beef (24) and Kim (21) are the best routes here. Can be muggy and mosquito ridden in summer. There has been much rebolting in recent years so most climbs are super safe. Keep your noise down as houses are right below the crag. This is a great spot for the kids, with nice level grassy area and only minutes from the car.

Limitations de l'accès

There are houses right below the crag, and nearby bouldering areas have been closed in recent years. Keep your noise down and be friendly to the residents.

approche

Park just before the intersection of 188 Washington Drive and Harrison Avenue in 'Bonnet Bay'. Walk back up Washington Road for 40m past the last house to find a track entering bush on the right. Hike up this for 20 seconds to arrive at the climbing. This track is located directly opposite the popular boat ramp. Climbs are named from LEFT to RIGHT as you face the cliff.

éthique

Sport sport sport. All of the cracks here are bolted - but were originally led on trad.

historique

There is very little known about the first ascent details of the majority of routes at this crag. Many routes were literally just labeled A, B, C etc in early internet guides. In recent years new names have been made up and grades have been consolidated. If you know anything more please add this info!

1.2.18. Walrus Rocks (bouldering) 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.011395, 151.051024

description

A little section of easier boulder problems along the usual Shire sandstone escarpment. The walk-in is one of the easiest around. This cliff face south and get no sun. Most landings are flat.

approche

Park at 41 Buchanan Ave, Bonnet Bay. The top of the cliff is on the other side of the road. 5 second walk-in to the first problem.

historique

May have been climbed on before, but there was very little evidence when Neil Monteith spent half a day doing the majority of problems here in 2015 in between hospital visits for his brand new kid. Cleaning and loose rock removal was required. If you know anything further feel free to update this!

1.2.19. Bonnet Bay (Bouldering) 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.014497, 151.053894

Limitations de l'accès

In 2014 this bouldering area was reported as closed to climbing after the Office of Environment and Heritage informed the Sydney Rockclimbing Club of environmental damage to this significant Aboriginal site. If you choose to boulder here, you must take personal responsibility for negatively effecting continued access to other Sydney bouldering and climbing areas. The base of the cave is a large collection of shells known as a midden, and is the remains of shellfish collected and eaten over thousands of years by first nation inhabitants.

1.2.20. Janali 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -34.016393, 151.059778

résumé

Well bolted micro routes with super easy access. If you've done Bangor than maybe give this a go for a couple of hours. Rock is heavily featured - stay away after rain or you will break holds.

description

Janali is a great example of a 'local' cliff - extremely short, super easy access and every bit of worthwhile rock has been climbed over. You could climb every good route here in an hour if you are keen. The cliff has insanely short access (under a minute) and top-ropes are easy to setup along the top of the cliff. The crag gets afternoon sun. The cliff does seep a little in places and doesn't receive a lot of traffic - the worst routes here are some of the worst routes in Sydney.

Limitations de l'accès

There are suburban houses right above the left side of the cliff-line. Keep your noise down and park your car with some thought to the locals who live here.

approche

Park at end of Taft Place in Jannali and walk down fire trail next to giant water pipe for 40m. Scramble down right and hook back under the scrappy cliff line to arrive at 'Mystery Climb'.

historique

Paul Wheeler and Dave Barnes bolted the first routes here in the mid 90s. Two decades later Neil Monteith added three other routes in between baby birthing duties.

1.2.21. Spark Boulders 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.016568, 151.059939

description

Small boulder with several easy problems

approche

Park at end of Taft Place in Janali. Walk down fireroad next to water pipe for 100m then crawl under pipe to boulder with dick and balls graffiti on other side.

1.2.22. The School (Bouldering) 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.018788, 151.059865

description

Small but well-featured bouldering with excellent sub-V5 problems in peaceful bush land. Rock is heavily featured with routes mostly involving long moves between slopers or jugs. Nice flat landing and clean topouts mean that no mat is required. A major cleanup of trash was done here - so if you see any rubbish such as drug paraphenalia left by others please take it out with you.

approche

It's located just behind the Yamaha Music School (now the Janalli College SGSCC) off Sutherland Road, opposite Louise St, Janalli. Walk in their entrance gate and around to the right of the first building, or through the oval to the right when gate closed. Hook around left behind this building and follow small track left through bush and down a little cliff. The bouldering is visible from here on left about 50m away.

historique

Generations of local kids have spent time pulling bongs and bludging school in this cave. Scrolling through the first ascent dates listed in this guide you may be forgiven for thinking that this is a newly discovered area. Rest assured the majority of problems (yes, even most of the contrived dirty ones) were first climbed way back in the 1990s. This area (without individual problems) was listed in the 2001 Peter Balint Sydney bouldering guide for example. It wasn't until the mid 2010s that anyone started putting names and grades onto this website.

1.2.23. Jannali Reserve 54 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.018417, 151.056528

description

Nice cool spot for an summer arvo session. Faces east and catches the breeze.

Great place for beginners with some nice high warm ups with good landings.

Routes are described from right to left when facing the cliff line.

approche

Park at the Bonnet Bay sign on Tudar Road and walk about 80m into the bush and turn left to follow The ledge walking track. After another 100m the cliffline is on the left.

1.2.24. Barden Ridge 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -34.042696, 151.009102

description

Shire Suburban crag fest with a dozen middle grade micro routes. This crag has one one minute access from your car and great views. Watch out for snakes in summer. This joint has been climbed on for many years and I first visited in 1987. Many routes were bolted by Barnesy but they have probably already been done, just as the all those recent routes on the Right end.

approche

To get there, drive south along Old 'Illawarra' Road until it becomes Thomas Mitchell Drive. Follow this along the top of the ridge until it starts to drop down and curve around to the left. Park at number 37 or 39 - the crag is located just across the road, about 15m into the bush. The best descent is to the right (facing out), just to the left of the rough stone block retaining wall. This brings you down to the left hand end of the crag (facing the cliff).

© (secretary)

1.2.25. Trackside 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -34.041189, 151.004872

description

Small steep crag right next to the Old Illawara fire trail that heads down to the popular Needles swimming spot on the Woronora River. Not a whole lot of potential here but the rock quality is great and the access is super easy. The cliff gets afternoon sun but is short enough that trees give it dappled shade. If it gets all too hot continue down the fireroad to one of the best swimming spots in Sydney.

approche

5 minutes downhill walk. The crag is located directly below 81 Thomas Mitchel Drive, Barden Ridge but it is a bit of a scramble down and it's best not to alert the Trueman Show residents of our activities. So instead, park down the road at 83 Old Illawarra Rd, and walk into the bush on the major fireroad. At the first intersection take the left road that leads steeply left and downhill. Follow this for about 100m until a small cliff appears on the left hand side of the track. Look for orange overhang facing north and bolts. Scramble up 10m to base of crag.

1.2.26. The Ridge Boulders 14 routes in Field

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.039070, 150.994155

description

Nice open bouldering area with a good range of problems.

approche

Park at far end of athletics track and take fire trail down along electrical power lines.

For sunset lover area, Continue on main fire trail for 200m past a few small scattered boulders then turn left and continue up the hill.

For the Cave continue straight on main fire trail until you reach the second electrical tower. 50m past the tower you will see the cave on the right.

1.2.27. Lucas Heights 38 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.040747, 151.001984

résumé

Steep sport climbing in the mid grades and with all day shade.

description

An unusually substantial cliff overlooking the scenic Woronora River set amongst lush forest and within critical meltdown distance of Australia's only nuclear reactor. The routes generally climb gorgeous steep water worn orange rock up to 20m in length. Most routes are now well bolted with ringbolts & lower-off anchors (2014). It is a good destination during summer since it faces south. Sections of the cliff seep after heavy rain and during winter when it gets no direct sun.

Limitations de l'accès

There was once a bit of rubbish near the bottom of the cliff from the upper lookout that has been cleaned up. If you see any rubbish please help take it out. Bring mosquito repellent in summer. Some very angry Peregrine Falcons are quite often in residence during spring.

approche

To get to the crag, drive to corner of David Road and Old Illawarra Road in Barden Ridge. Drive south down to 89 Thomas Mitchell Dr. for 50m and park before the left turn. Pass the gate to the reserve, and follow the large, flat fire-trail west. Take the right-hand trail, along the ridge top. Pass a first large old quarry, and then a second. 20m past the second quarry, stop at a clearing. Look sharp left, almost back--there is a small cairn at the top of a steep, yellow descent gully. Follow blue tape marks on branches along a faint trail. Trend down and right under the scrappy cliff, always staying close to the rock on your right. Climbs described right to left facing the cliff (east to west).

éthique

Everything of worth at this crag is sport-bolted.

historique

Dave Barnes and Chris Wallace in the 90s, Neil Monteith in the 2010s

1.2.28. Needles Causeway 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.046878, 151.005899

description

Small section of cliff literally overhanging the dirt road leading south from the causeway at the popular swimming spot of the Needles. Faces north so gets all day sun.

approche

You can approach the causeway from either the north or south side of the river. The southern method is slightly shorter. Park near 56 Woronora Rd, Engadine and follow gated bitumen road for 10 minutes downhill. The cliff is on the right about 50m before the river. For the northern approach - park at 83 Old Illawarra Rd, Bardens Ridge and follow gated dirt fireroad downhill to the river. Cross the causeway and the cliff is 50m up the continuation of the road on the left.

historique

100 years ago road builders cut their way down this small cliffline to establish the Old Illawara Rd. Then climbers arrived.

1.2.29. Heathcote Weir 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -34.061826, 150.997403

description

This is the cliff you see crossing the Heathcote Road bridge near the Heathcote exit. It was first climbed on a long time ago (1960's)and a few paint marks are evidence of this. There is a nice smooth 8m orange wall above and behind the main cliff and the routes mentioned form part of these.

1.2.30. Sleaze cave 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.035007, 151.021357

description

Two small caves with few problems.

approche

Park at the end of Manniken drive, Worronora heights. Walk through fire trail and turn left behind house, turn right after 10 metres then walk diagonally down to the left for 100 metres to the cave.

historique

Luke.W & Grant.S found this place on a dedicated sick day back in 2007.

1.2.31. Sierra Road 62 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.050204, 150.997986

description

The Balkans of the South (sorta). Bloc after bloc of potential, with something for everyone. Low balls, high balls, roof, slabs, something easy, something hard - you name it. Lots of work has been put in with the locals to ensure that climbers are well perceived and tolerated. Keep it clean, keep it quiet.

approche

Enter via Sierra Rd Reserve, Engadine. Past swing set and silver access gate. For main area, slight right onto service road for 30m then straight down track where some mountain bike kickers are built. Follow feint track down left past first boulder. Descriptions are from entry point heading north, or right to left facing the cliff line.

historique

Undoubtedly stumbled upon long ago. It's the Shire after all.

1.2.32. The Wastelands 76 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.060674, 150.999802

résumé

This crag has some great suburban climbing and Rainbow Wall remains a great place to test your skills. I really like routes on the Vertex but they may need some cleaning these days. My favourite climb here remains Plummit Earth Eats Worms.

description

The Sydney climbing website has a good map of the sub areas, http://sydneyclimbing.com/The+Wastelands.html

approche

To get there:

1. Turn off Princes Hwy at Anzac Ave, Engadine.

2. Continue along Anzac Ave and turn right into Woronora Road

3. Turn left at Buckle Ave

4. Continue along into Mountain St

5. Turn left into Ardua Place and park near the end.

6. There is a lane way between the houses, walk down this and then head left and decend down the hill

7. Scamble down the cliff in the corner near big tree and "Year 7 Girl".

Subsections and climbs are described right to left facing the cliff.

© (bundybear)

1.2.33. The Wok 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

description

This crag houses a dozen easy beginner routes you do not have to die for. A pleasant location and a couple of really nice things makes this a good spot for the bumbly.

approche

located down in royal national park directly in line with cardiff street. cross railway line and head down goarra ridge firetrail, turn left after 100m down firetrail running parralel to railway line, follow this for roughly 200m to find the crag just on left.

© (glenn_9)

1.2.34. Bluebell 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.079551, 151.002432

description

A mighty little crag housing some steep Sydney classics. Sandstone, easy access, snakes and ladders, there is much here to keep a smile on your dial. The cliff was discovered by Alan Smith but it was Dave Barnes who did the work in the early 1990's. His routes include 'Gate Keeper' (23) the mega classic, 'Ruthless Babe' (22), 'Bitch'n' (23), 'Welcome to the Body Shop' (21), 'Meltdown' (19) and 'Sparky' (16). Other climbers filled in the gaps and what is left is a dozen pumpy numbers. Beware of the summer snakes in the break of Bitch'n and mindful of the neighbors at the cliff top, it's their backyard.

approche

To get there, find 'Bluebell' Rd, Heathcote, and park at the end. Hop the gate onto the fire trail and follow it around to the left (behind the houses). The crag is located directly below these houses - continue walking for 50m until you are level with a wooden retaining wall of the last house. Scramble directly downhill on a non-obvious track starting with a dirt slope. This will take you down to the base of the cliff.

1.2.35. Dickhead's Area 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bloc et Moulinette

description

This area is all climbing and has been for a few years. Please respect this do climb here. A sign is in place advising of climbing permitted. Plenty of crags in the with awesome problems!

1.2.36. Bass and Flinder's Point 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.073044, 151.153413

description

With a constant breeze and climbing in shade offered for most of the day. This crag offers good conditions all year round. Not rain protected.

approche

Park at Gowrie Street and find the marker. Walk on the path down hill towards salmon haul reserve. Turn left and walk down the stairs towards hungry point, at the base of the stairs head left and on trail to graffiti covered boulder.

éthique

Sports climbing, stick clip would be helpful.

1.2.37. Villas 47 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.025568, 151.050225

description

This area once contained some of the most extensive bouldering in the Shire, but a December 2016 ban of the Cave sector by Sutherland Shire Council has reduced the climbable rock by half. Please stay out of the cave and only climb on the vertical walls and boulders on the left side.

© (secretary)

approche

Park at the start of Rata Place, Sutherland, where the big green pipe crosses under the road. Follow the pipe leftwards for about 75m, then drop off right towards the river into the jumbled rocks. After about 15m, you'll be on a vague terrace, head left for 10m for the 'Cops Are Tops Cave', otherwise continue down the dodgy descent for another 30m. The first problems described are about 25m right along the cliff line, next to the exposed pipes.

© (secretary)

1.2.38. Prices Cave 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.029981, 151.047862

description

This area was declared closed in December 2016 by Sutherland Shire Council and Dept Enviroment and Heritage as the cave is considered an aboriginal occupation site.

1.2.39. The Fish Boulders 41 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.028254, 151.045957

description

A splended array of small cliffs and buttresses right near the Woronora River. Flat landings, nice easy to moderate problems. Fun for the whole family and/or a great place to warm up before hitting the harder crags of the area. Each section of the cliff now has a single ring bolt for a Top Rope set up and is great for the little kids.

© (secretary)

approche

Off River road, turn into Prince Edward Park road, follow it along 900m past a small feature in the middle of the road and park in the obvious parking area on the right side of the road. The boulders are just over the grassy mound near the river.

© (secretary)

1.2.40. Dead Mans Wall 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.017847, 151.047335

résumé

A couple of good problems and an unbeatable 1min approach walk.

© (bundybear)

description

A small area featuring a couple of quality problems such as 'Fish Food' (V7), 'In God We Trust' (V5) and 'Statement' (V8).

© (bundybear)

approche

Park on Menali Road just before the hairpin bend where a gate is visible. Cross the road, walk past the gate and the 'Fish Food' boulder will appear. 1 minute access.

© (bundybear)

historique

The crag was initially developed by Paul Westwood. It was named after an old bedraggled man of asian appearance who appeared at the crag wearing no shoes and who looked like he had been walking for a very long time.

Climbers later found out that the man had drowned in the nearby river in an apparent suicide. One may speculate the man believed this was his best option when faced with deportation back to China.

The history is also written in the Sydney bouldering guide.

© (bundybear)

1.2.41. Hill Top Bloc 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.016814, 151.046141

description

Small bloc with some cool little lines perfect for practicing your Crimping on a 10° bloc. Gets a mega breeze.

approche

Same as for Bangor Blocs but turn off left at the tower and you'll find it quick.

historique

Spotted by Mattias, suggested I put some lines up so I have. Feel free to add more and contest grading.

1.2.42. The Cemetery (Bouldering) 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

1.2.43. Sandshoes (bouldering) 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.070408, 151.156527

Limitations de l'accès

The park, beach, and rock pool can be extremely busy. Weekends, holidays, and “beach days” more generally probably aren’t the best times to climb here.

approche

Park at Oak Park on Ewos Parade. Short walk through the park towards the beach. Follow the stairs to the right of the pavilion down to the rock pool.

historique

The original routes seem to have been established by David O'Donnell over a few days in January 2007, and have seen few ascents (logged) since.

1.2.44. Viburnum Crag 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

résumé

History is a mystery here. The obvious crack lines have been climbed and are initialed at the base of those routes.

description

Bangor style Shire crag.

approche

Park at the end of Viburnum Rd Loftus. Follow the firetrail down the hill for a few hundred metres, crag is on the right.

FYI. Follow the trail down the hill for another 100m to the Camp Wanawong fire trail. This leads to the crag of the same name.

historique

Who knows? Another forgotten Shire crag

1.2.45. Camp Wanawong 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.036900, 151.040662

résumé

Fun west facing wall right near some great swimming.

description

Compact orange sandstone wall, just west of Camp Wanawong (a private Christian camp). This cliff is used as a kids absquealing area occasionally. Rebolting in mid 2015 has brought this crag into modern times.

Limitations de l'accès

Keep a very low profile and never walk around on the top of the cliff. The land above (and maybe the cliffs themselves?) is on private property.

approche

Approach by walking upstream on the eastern side of Loftus Creek following walking tracks.

éthique

Any bolts added here should be low profile.

historique

History is a mystery. Old rusty carrots (80s) are on a few walls and belay bolts are along the top. Glen Short rebolted and possibly added some new routes here (90s??)

1.2.46. Cranberry Crags 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.045392, 151.040675

description

Cranberry Crags is a collection of slabs, large boulders and small cliffs, tall enough to boulder or rope up.

Limitations de l'accès

Adapted and edited from ‘Sutherland’. For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. As of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to Aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Department of Environment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (including removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. Treat non-climbers that you see at crags with the utmost respect; rangers, archaeologists, traditional owners, and everybody else. For more information about aboriginal sites and rock-climbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

approche

Park at the end of Cranberry Street, Loftus. Walk down Cranberry fire trail (steep) for 400m. After crossing a gravel spillway, over a mound, then another more established spillway (a subsidiary of the Maandowie Creek), the trail begins to incline and veer up to the right. There is a large rock on the Left, just after it, there is a small trail. Follow the trail up. Approach time: ~10 minutes

éthique

It is important to acknowledge the Dharawal people as the Traditional Custodians of the land which the Sutherland shire is situated. We value and celebrate the Dharawal culture, language, while acknowledging the Dharawal people’s continuing connection to the land, the sea, and the community. We pay respect to the Elders and their families, past, present, and emerging, and through them, to all Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples.

historique

Cranberry Crags has been climbed since the 80’s, all trad & bouldering. Taken from ‘Sutherland’. Climbing has been going on since the 1960's in the Shire. Gossip has it that an old doctor used to play around the cliffs on the Woronora River in those early years. Joe Friend was also known to climb here back in the 1970's. You can find some old pitons, pin scars at odd locations such as the Heathcote Bridge, Menai area and at ‘The Cathedral’. It was common that Scouts and at times the Army regularly frequented places like Menai, Lucas Heights and Alfords Point. The 1980's saw a steep rise in development with climbers from the Loftus Crew, Anthony Scharnbel, Damian Taylor and Bruce Stevens. A big influence in the 1980-1990's was David Barnes. Dave developed several new areas and put up scores of routes across the shire, including the classic routes

1.2.47. The Wing Cave 39 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.014698, 151.001011

description

Steep cave climbing with a surprising amount of top outs.

Limitations de l'accès

Bouldering is under threat in the Sutherland Shire area due to crossover between aboriginal cave sites and bouldering areas. Please don't leave mattresses in the cave and brush off chalk. Keep a low profile in general.

approche

Park in Treloar Place, Menai at the first gated fire trail which leads down the hill - not the one next to the scout hall! Follow the fire trail down to the creek, then follow the creek to the right (downstream) on the opposite side. There is a path that leads you in to the left end of the cave.

1.2.48. The Forgotten Cave 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.034135, 151.043042

description

Cave with climbs ranging from v3-v12.

approche

Park at RSL. Walk up Prince Edward Park Road to set of stairs. Follow track right until you reach pipeline. Follow pipeline for 100m and as it approaches river go left underneath pipeline to find mountain bike track. Walk up track for a bit over 100m. The path goes directly under the boulders so you can’t miss it.

historique

Developed by crushers of the past but recently added to the 2023 Bouldering Guidebook with a few newer climbs

1.2.49. Woronora Lookout 55 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle et Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.030847, 151.045605

résumé

Extensive collection of short trad, solo, or bouldering lines (often toproped). Really good rock and generally good gear.

Limitations de l'accès

Public land

approche

This area is behind the Woronora Cemetery in the suburb of Loftus. Park at the dead end at the junction of First and Second Ave. Go through the metal gate on the right and walk north along the fence bordering the cemetery. Cross a small creek and turn left. Continue on for a hundred metres, ignoring the turns on the left. The track goes up a little rocky hill then goes flat for another hundred metres. Ignore the 2 large tracks on the right and walk 100m to the lookout over river and park bench. Scramble down left of the park bench through the rubbish 50m to the left end of the crag if you must. Easier to turn left off track 40m before the lookout (10m past 2nd track on the right) and scramble down the Lean To gully. It faces south west so gets some afternoon sun.

éthique

Bouldering fear, trad fear, or top-roping only. No bolts! There are some old bolts at the top, don't trust them! Use trees as anchors and only use the bolts as directionals (if at all).

historique

People have been climbing here for decades and many routes have a small square painted at the base, presumably indicating that they have been climbed. Many of the routes were top-roped then soloed. Recently some of the lines have been led on gear like little gritstone routes. A few have perfect gear!

1.2.50. Revesby Rocks 39 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.972448, 151.014919

description

Revesby Rocks was the first area established. A pleasent suburban bush walk skirts the base of a small, broken cliff line which is climable from time to time. A crag reflecting the local area; it isn’t the best around but it’s handy, varied and nice enough. The highlights at this stage are Almost a V8 Holden, Sky Bar and The FJ Holden. There’s also some videos of it on Youtube if you'd like to see what it looks like (just type in Revesby Rocks).

Dan Webster on ACAQ. http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=crag&crag_id=760

approche

Located on The River Rd Revesby.

1. Park on the side of the road about 70m south of Prince st and find the beginning of the bush walk on the western side of the road (near a rust-red telegraph pole). Follow this up hill till it intersects a path running across the bottom of a rock band. Turn L. The punch bug area is about 70m after this intersection and the Worker’s Club area about 100m. The FJ Holden area is about another 50m past the Worker’s Club and is obvious.

   OR

2. Park just outside Bill Delauney Reserve (on The River Rd). Cross the road and take the decent path straight up the hill till it meets the main track. The Worker’s Club area is straight up from where the paths meet.

éthique

General take out what you bring in.

1.2.51. Party Palace Cave 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.980863, 151.006410

description

A small cave overlooking George's River. Rock quality is generally reasonable, with a high headwall. Plenty of possibility for more routes, the developers just aren't good enough to do them!

approche

Just a kilometer or two from Revesby Rocks along Henry Lawson Drive, this crag has a slighly longer walk in. Park here: (Parking-33.978526, 151.003931) then head into bush land just above Ducktropolis crag. Follow it up and left and look out for right turn off about 5 mins in. Head back towards water trending down on path and then via bush. Big Cave on rock line. OLD WAlK IN:Coming from Picnic Point (heading east along Henry Lawson Drive), park on the left side of the road (not heaps of room - perhaps find somewhere else) when you see a brown sign reading 'George's River National Park'. This is just near the top of the hill. Cross the road and go through the gate. Follow the fire trail which turns immediately right, following the road, then pulls away left. Follow this for around 200m before it turns left again. Not much later (!60m?) there's a significant path to the right. Follow this for around 40m and you'll find yourself at a look out of sorts, surrounded by short cliffs. There's a few decent short things here. Drop down this cliff line and head right and down the hill (there's a sort of ramp). Within 30m you'll find the cave. Hard to miss.

historique

Scoped out by Dan Webster then developed one good day with the help of Ryan Myers and Darcey.

1.2.52. Ducktropolis 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.978909, 151.004694

résumé

Beautiful location, short boulders and DWS in summer

description

A popular spot for walkers, fishermen and apparently litterers. Lots of new route potential as the rock keeps on going down the waters edge. Beware lots of broken glass, and other litter, around. If we all bring a plastic bag to fill with rubbish we can have a positive impact on this beautiful spot.

A video of almost all of the first ascents of the original 17 climbs can be found here almost in the order listed here: Tom Bes FAs

Limitations de l'accès

Be mindful of other non climbers who also use the area for leisure activities of all kinds.

approche

Park on henry lawsons drive here (Parking-33.978526, 151.003931). head a few metres into the bush onto the rock platform and behold.

éthique

We acknowledge the Bidjigal nation as the Traditional Owners of this unceded land and recognise their continuing connection to land, waters and culture. We pay our respects to their Elders past, present and emerging. Treat it like it's sacred as it is.

historique

Developed during 2021 lockdown by Tom Bes

1.2.53. Star Trek 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.977443, 151.002149

résumé

A undeveloped stretch of hard sandstone slab with easy access.

description

A good cliff line broken into two, offering good height (~4m) slabs, on generally excellent rock with good landings. It's all around the V0-2 grade range with juggy top outs, so good for beginners. The first cliff (Left Nacelle) is slabby and more technical, while the second cliff (Right Nacelle) is easier. Choose your own sci-fi adventure! Easy landings and a short approach make this a good place for laps. You can do the whole crag in a long afternoon for endurance. Also 5mins walk from a beautiful swimming spot in the George's river.

We acknowledge the Bidjigal nation as the Traditional Owners of this unceded land and recognise their continuing connection to land, waters and culture. We pay our respects to their Elders past, present and emerging. Treat it like it's sacred as it is

approche

Park on the side of the road between the two bodies of water, just before the road heads back into bush towards picnic point: (Parking-33.978714, 151.002507). Cross the road to the Lagoon side, and walk west. You'll find a new little bridge. Across the bridge is the Yeramba Lagoon Walking track. Follow it for about 30 metres and the crag will be obvious on your left.

historique

Another one discovered in 2012, but undeveloped. Until.... Some bloke came along in the second 2021 lockdown and put up loads of climbs all with star trek names and renamed the whole thing. (Thanks for discovering this kind stranger, I hope you don't mind the name change)

1.2.54. Carss Park 92 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.988548, 151.116228

résumé

Some great slab boulders, both easy and hard as well as a cave with a vertical wall on the side. All just next to the bike track and car park.

description

A pleasant and shady west facing bouldering area, that isn't very popular. Surprising really, since it's obvious from the Prince's Highway! It might be something to do with most of the problems being slabby. There are a bunch of climbs on a long boulder next to the path, "the Dome" just to the left of it, and the upper section up the hill a bit. It's all a bit old school and techy compared to modern thuggy caves. Because of its extremely high visibility, please do your utmost to minimise your impact at this crag. Please erase all chalk marks and remove any rubbish you see in the area.

Limitations de l'accès

According the the NSW government's Aboriginal Heritage Information Management System there are 9 recorded Aboriginal sites in Carrs Park, with two of them being along the cliffline where Up in the Nose Bleeds sector is located. The remaining 7 sites are along the waterline on the eastern end of the park. Take care of the place - avoid digging out caves especially as these could be midden sites.

approche

To get there, park at the end of Bunyala St in Blakehurst; the bouldering is on the small buttresses just off the end of the street.

éthique

We acknowledge the The Gameygal (Kameygal) clan, members of the Dharug language group, as the Traditional Owners of this unceded land and recognise their continuing connection to land, waters and culture. We pay our respects to their Elders past, present and emerging. Treat it like it's sacred as it is.

historique

Carrs Park was extensively bouldered on by Sydney Rockies members and Shire locals before 1999 but details of problem names and first ascent people and dates were not recorded. This was the way many Sydney bouldering areas were quietly explored prior to the existence of online guides. Further developed during the 2021 lockdown. First ascents are quite possibly first recorded ascents, unless the cleaning required is especially heinous.

1.2.55. Moonah Road Crag 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -33.981210, 151.018362

résumé

Small traddy slabbing, good for winter

description

This area was listed in a 2016 ban on climbing by the Sutherland Shire Council, however it appears the ban may only be relevant to the right side cave where people do not climb. This requires further clarification with Council. A short, easy access crag above the Georges River.

The speedboat wankers are in full effect in summer, but since the cliff faces north it's not exactly prime climbing season A hazard reduction burn of the bush here in 2013 has left all the belay trees charred and sooty, many routes now have a lower off.

Further right of these described routes is a small orange cave with signs of prior Aboriginal occupation. Please don't climb here.

approche

Park across the road from 29 Moonah Rd, Alford's Pt. Jump the Armco and walk down a right leading ramp through a little cliffline, then head slightly left downhill about 60m down into the bush to a access ramp and large fallen boulder at the left end (facing out), which is the easiest way down. Avoid the crag in summer, since it faces basically north and hence bakes. The crag is located within the George's River National Park and access can be best described as "Don't Ask - Don't Tell". Climbs described right to left, facing the cliff.

historique

http://www.sydneyclimbing.com/confluence/display/nswrock/Moonah+Road

1.2.56. Below Sealevel 0 routes in Crag

résumé

Bouldering

description

this crag is effected by tides and swell, but if you get it at the right time its excellent quality bouldering, long steep lines most with top outs on very solid rock, about 10 to 15 problems have been done along the 3 sections separated about 20m apart, right most is a high slippery roof, middle is a beautiful big 45deg wall with undercut starts and top outs (although this is closest to the waterline), left most is a weird feature wall. Apart from some average juggy lines furthest left the area is void of anything easy, with most problems being between v6 and v9. lots of fun here for a low tide (preferable xmas tides) and small swell. although bouldering has been done here in big swells, a low tide is more important

Limitations de l'accès

In Kamay National Park -

Officially rock climbing is banned in this National Park. Keep a very low profile, do not use ropes or bolts, do not abseil, do not go in groups, avoid distrubing any wildlife or birds, take any rubbish (yours and others) with you and avoid climbing here during public holidays or whale watching season.

approche

Park At Cape Solander and walk to Tabbigai Gap, then continue along the clifftop track out to the tip of the point and find a well hidden and exciting fishermans decent down the cliff (be careful) be aware this is the only way in/out of the area and it could be possible to get trapped in changing swells/tides. the crag is on the large rock platform just south of where you emerge

1.2.57. Whale Boulders 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.002025, 151.223583

résumé

Seaside bouldering

description

An awesome spot to escape the summer heat with afternoon shade and the sea breeze. The best time to climb is in ‎between mid to late afternoon and sunset as this avoids the direct sun and most of the pedestrian traffic. An excellent ‎area for beginner and intermediate boulders with many boulders in different styles. Bring a brush as it can get very ‎sandy. Problems are listed west to east. ‎

Limitations de l'accès

Inherited from Cape Solander Kurnell. Officially rock climbing is not allowed in this National Park. Keep a low profile, do ‎not use ropes or bolts, do not abseil, do not go in large groups, avoid disturbing any wildlife or birds, take any rubbish ‎‎(yours and others) with you and avoid climbing here during public holidays. The boulders are all located on the intertidal ‎platform and some areas are inaccessible during king tides or large swells. ‎

approche

Located in Kamay Botany Bay National Park in the suburb of Kurnell. Pay your $8 national park fee and park in the ‎Commemoration Flat Carpark. Walk down to the Whale Sculpture then walk east along the rock shelf.

It is also possible ‎to access this area via “The Step” near the Inscription Point car park. ‎

historique

First climbed during the 2020 and 2021 covid lockdowns. ‎

1.2.58. The Leap 18 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.004678, 151.228068

résumé

Seaside bouldering that is far more secluded than the nearby Whale Boulders

Limitations de l'accès

Inherited from Cape Solander Kurnell. Officially rock climbing is not allowed in this National Park. Keep a low profile, avoid disturbing any wildlife or birds and take any rubbish ‎‎(yours and others) with you. The boulders are all located on the intertidal ‎platform and some areas are inaccessible during king tides or large swells. ‎

approche

Located in Kamay Botany Bay National Park in the suburb of Kurnell. Pay your $8 national park fee and park in the The Leap Carpark. Walk down down the stairs to the rock shelf then head west. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO ACCESS WHEN WAVE ARE BREAKING ACROSS THE ROCK SHELF.

1.2.59. Cape Solander Kurnell 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.020002, 151.229718

résumé

Seaside bouldering

description

A known spot for some quality bouldering. Afternoon shade. If you know any names, grades or other routes please update! Some of the boulders in this area are in this video https://vimeo.com/67496225 and on this flickr page https://www.flickr.com/photos/davebateman/4268028897

Limitations de l'accès

Officially rock climbing is banned in this National Park. Keep a very low profile, do not use ropes or bolts, do not abseil, do not go in groups, avoid distrubing any wildlife or birds, take any rubbish (yours and others) with you and avoid climbing here during public holidays or whale watching season.

approche

Located in Kamay Botany Bay National Park in the suburb of Kurnell. Pay your $8 national park fee and drive to the Cape Solander lookout. Walk 100 m south along the cliff edge and follow the ramp down where the boulders meet the cliff. Scramble down and either continue south for another 100m for the main area and Little Mermaid area or backtrack 100m north for the lookout area.

historique

A popular bouldering area from 20 years ago with many first ascents by Joseph Hodgson, James Phillips and others.

1.2.60. Climbfit Kirrawee 0 routes in Gym

1.2.61. Khazm 0 routes in Gym

description

Unit 18 / 157 Airds Road, Leumeah, Sydney, New South Wales 2560

1.2.62. Padstow Heights 2 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

résumé

Vertical to overhanging redness on amazing rock.

Limitations de l'accès

Under wraps during lockdown !!

1.2.63. Lost treasure 2 routes in Area

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.043554, 151.008066

approche

Park near 51 Thomas Mitchell drive head in near the caravans on the side of the road to an obvious cliff line

1.3. North West 1,601 routes in Region

5 17 15 13 6 23 21 4 3 2 11 30 1 26 25 29 22 24 9 7 8 10 27 16 20 19 18

1 The Balkans 2 The Fear Factory 3 Funky Town 4 Funny Farm 5 Dural 6 Mystery Rocks 7 RnR 8 Jessicca's 9 The Hive 10 Terry's Creek 11 Loading Dock 13 The Stables 15 The Great North Cliff 16 Lake Parramatta 17 Rosemead 18 Hunter's Cave 19 9 degrees Parramatta 20 Bloc Climbing Centre 21 The Climbing Centre 22 Summit indoor rock climbing 23 The Edge Adventure Centre 24 Climb Oz 25 Marsfield 26 The Campus 27 The Kwarry 29 Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek 30 Bidjigal Reserve - Heidi Place

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.702487, 150.923131

1.3.1. The Balkans 477 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.761982, 151.009537

description

The Balkans is partly located in the Sydney suburb of Baulkham Hills so it's no wonder that its location was initially mistaken for "Balkan Hills", and the name has stuck. 'The Balkans' is unique in Sydney bouldering in that there is truly something for everyone, from total beginners, to pumpers and power mutants. Very few of the problems are eliminates and they all top out!

Useful Info: 'Excelsior' Park is a popular bush walking area. So far the friendly rangers, bush walkers and local residents seem happy to share it with us.

© (aca_admin)

approche

The Balkans is located in Bidjigal Reserve, on either side of the Darling Mills Creek in North Western Sydney about 20km from the Sydney CBD. The areas on the western side of the valley (Trenches and Caves) are in the suburb of Baulkham Hills and those on the eastern side of the valley (Frontline and Swampland) are in North Rocks. See Map.

Park in Larra Cr, North Rocks for the Frontline, or Mill Dr, North Rocks for the Swampland, or Ted Horwood Reserve, Baulkham Hills for the Trenches and the Caves.

From the east / city etc … take the M2 west from the CBD and exit at Windsor Rd. Head north on Windsor Rd for about 100m and make a right into Cook St at the second set of lights.

From the west … take the M4 east from Penrith (because you can't turn off the M2 at Windsor Rd) and exit at the Cumberland Hwy. Follow it north until you get to the Old Windsor Rd T-intersection where you make a right onto Briens Rd. Follow Briens Rd for about 1km and turn left onto Windsor Rd at the big intersection. Follow Windsor Rd north for a couple of km until you cross over the M2 and make a right into Cook St at the second set of lights.

Having turned onto Cook St by either of the above methods, after about 500m turn right into Park Rd and then past the left turn taken by Park Rd, and continue on Renown Rd. About 100m along on the left is the carpark for the Trenches and the Caves or continue down the "Big Dipper" and up the other side to Mill Dr and Larra Cres on the left for the Frontline and the Swampland.

By train / bus

From the east / city etc … catch any of the 600 series Westbuses (the yellow, red and black ones) heading for 'Castle Hill' from Central Stn (at Railway Square on George St), Wynyard Stn (on Clarence St), North Sydney Stn (on Blue St) or the Macquarie Centre (near Macquarie Uni). Make sure the bus stops at Barclay Rd because this is where you get off.

From the west … catch any of the 600 series Westbuses (the yellow, red and black ones) heading for the Macquarie Centre or City (via the M2) from Blacktown Stn. Make sure the bus stops at Barclay Rd because this is where you get off.

Having arrived at Barclay Rd bus stop by either of the above methods, walk up the ramps and head west (downhill) along Barclay Rd for about 100m and turn right into Mill Dr and Larra Cres on the left for the Frontline or continue down the "Big Dipper" for the Swampland or up the other side and turn right into the carpark for the Ted Horwood Reserve for the Trenches and the Caves.

© (aca_admin)

1.3.2. The Fear Factory 147 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.752348, 151.096546

description

Excellent bouldering destination with a reputation for highballs with sketchy landings. In reality, there's a lot of safer stuff here too, including a few Sydney classics.

Useful Info: Please avoid excessive erosion of the access routes and the base of the walls. You don't want the top outs to get any higher, surely? Information largely drawn from Peter Balint's excellent 'Sydney Bouldering' guide. Buy one if you don't have one!

© (Atrax)

approche

Find Boundary Road in North Epping. At the end of this road, past the bowling club, is a turning circle and obvious fire trail marked "Boundary Rd Fire Trail". Keep going straight until you reach a first creek and then a second one. Cross the river at the second creek to access 'The Courtyard' (you're in the right spot if you see a massive roof on the other side of the creek). If you keep going on the Fire trail, you'll quickly gain access to the other areas such as the roof-capped 'Sinatra Wall'.

© (Atrax)

1.3.3. Funky Town 123 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.752172, 151.086380

résumé

Very Grit-esque climbing.

description

Buttresses and bush boulders similar to nearby The Fear Factory.

Limitations de l'accès

Do not block driveways.

approche

Park at small (7 car) carpark on left 100m before the end of Day Rd, Cheltenham, or short walk from Cheltenham station.

Enter park on service trail at Lane Cove National Park sign, pass left turn-off marked Pennant Hills, and continue straight ahead toward Epping. Track curves right, after 50m at large twin gums (approx -33.7518, 150.0849) cross creek and head up hill 50m to large red slabs.

éthique

This area is in Lane Cove National Park so all park rules apply: no dogs or rubbish, or damaging vegetation or rock.

historique

Discovered and developed in the late 90s by Neil Wallace. Had a good run then everyone just stopped going there.

1.3.4. Funny Farm 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.749577, 151.084711

résumé

A select mix of a select few things.

description

There's a cave, a face, a slab and that's about it.

approche

Park at the weird shoulder at Kurrajong Street, Pennant Hills and take the Kurrajong Street Track from there. Go down the hill until the telegraph pole on the left hand side of the trail, with an evident footpad. Follow this down, over the creek, up and then right on to another pad. The main wall should be visible up the hill. Gain main trail, go left and up, until prominent tree root across trail. There should be a small lone boulder on the left, beneath the start of the cliffline proper.

1.3.5. Dural 117 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.681453, 151.077684

description

Another micro crag in NW Sydney in a peaceful bush setting. The cliff gets sun around midday.

approche

From the locked gate at the end of Quarry Rd, proceed along Quarry Trail. After 550m you'll come to a fork in the trail where you'll see a white concrete trig marker and a sign indicating "Pogsons Trig Trail" (right) and "Rifle Range" (left). Take the left fork and continue along Quarry Trail. (The cliff is before the rifle range).

After a further 430m, stop at a big clearing on the left, before the trail starts to go down hill. Here you'll find a brick and rock cairn sitting on a small stump at the entry point into the bush. Head 150m roughly west on the faint foot track to get to the top of the Upper Tier. To get from the top turn right (facing out) and find the access trail down to both top and lower tiers. It's about a 5 min walk in on this access trail.

This is family friendly crag with a flat access trail in from the car to the top of the crag which takes about 20 min walking in total. The access down may take a little time with children.

1.3.6. Mystery Rocks 58 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.726860, 151.056556

description

This crag is also featured in Sydney Rockies, with topos and photos.

Most routes are V0- to V3, but there are some harder ones. Crag hasn't seen much action lately, so it's quite messy. Expect lots of spider webs, moss, and soil. Bring a brush to clean the holds. A lot of the rock is very rough (due to lack of climbers), so your fingers may take a beating.

approche

1st access is via Beahan Place. Park at the end of the street, walk downhill from last bend, and follow the obvious bushwalk to the right. Whenever the track splits, go right. You can also walk in from Lawson Place which is probably now easier. Park at end of road and head down hill trending right diagonally, follow cairns. Walking time 3-4 minutes either way.

éthique

The area is popular amongst bushwalkers, so be respectful and keep noise to a minimum.

Storms in area late 2018, early 2019 bought down a lot of trees so main walking track diverted to below crag making it less prone to walker passing through.

1.3.7. RnR 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.773882, 151.004605

description

Basic info and problems at www.australianbouldering.com/guides/sydney/RnR_guide.html

approche

Park at the end of Rifle Range Road (hence the name RnR) in Northmead where there is a bit of a dead end / cul-de-sac. Head straight ahead down between the houses where there is a path and you'll find the area appearing on the left.

historique

The carrots discovered on Beginners Wall which resemble nothing more than ancient rusted blobs indicates that this crag was first discovered and played on around 1990.

It saw some developement by Tim O'Neill and Adam Griffiths in the autumn/winter of 2002. July 2013 saw some more love and affection by Brendon Flanagan and James Mansfield. Beginners wall was scrubbed down, holds were discovered and problems were created.

This crag was developed and problems listed during the Great Bouldering Boom.

Chalk up, climb on, and live the dream!

1.3.8. Jessicca's 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.779041, 151.009487

description

Small but high quality, with a few classic test-pieces including 'Great Expectations' (V7), 'Midwife Crisis' (V8), 'J2' (V12) and 'J1' (V13). It's also home to the not very often repeated 'A1' (V14).

© (secretary)

Limitations de l'accès

This area is very close to peoples houses and backyards and so far the residents welcome the "intrusion". But please no boom-boxes, dogs or swearing - save that for the gym!

© (secretary)

approche

Park on the corner of North Rocks Rd and Loyalty Rd. Head under the power line tower and then left behind the town houses following the trail. Note: The land the power line is on is not public land, it is the property of the house on your right, so please be courteous.

© (secretary)

historique

Discovered by Adam Griffiths and developed mainly by Adam Griffiths, Tim O'Neill and Saxon Johns in 2001 and 2002.

Note the double c's - named after Adam Griffith's daughter.

© (secretary)

1.3.9. The Hive 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Bloc et Moulinette

Lat / Long: -33.768410, 151.006218

description

A small crag that features a unique climbing style. It has a moderate density of sports and bouldering routes. It's quite sheltered all year round, but some climbs may stay wet for several days after heavy rain.

Limitations de l'accès

The crag and the access track is situated just on the Darling Mills Creek, in the Hills Shire council. The Hills Shire council takes great pride in their bushland and nature reserves. Please take care and have respect when climbing in these areas.

approche

A much faster (and much flatter) approach has now been found. Park at the corner of Williams Road and Hancey Avenue. Being respectful of the residents who live here, enter the reserve via the walkway between houses opposite the intersection. Keep just left of the big sign at the beginning of the treeline and walk straight in for 10m. Then turn directly left, there will be very very faint trail going in between the bushes. After another 10m, it should veer right over a little mound. The trail should become a lot more obvious from this point. This takes a direct route to the top of the Hive where you will come to a T- intersection with another trail which runs along the top of the cliffline.

If top roping, the anchors of Big Ideas wall are located to the right and Little Ideas + Slabs to the left.

To access the bottom of the cliffline, take a right at the T intersection, follow the trail for about 10m where the trail should run over some exposed rock and a slope down to the left, this marks the start of the access ramp, which will bring you down to the bottom of Little Ideas wall.

Alternative approach (10-20mins): Park on Winton ave Northmead, follow the stairway down to the track along the Darling Mills ck, left along the track and follow it to a boulder on the ground on the right with a cairn on it aprox 100m from the m2 bridge. Go down the hill and to the right to a pebbly crossing across the river, head up the hill to the big ideas wall.

éthique

When bolting a new climb, please consider whether it's worth it and make sure to use appropriate soft sandstone bolting methods.

historique

In the past, a few of the climbs had been bolted with old bash in carrots and holds have been chipped at some point in time. It has since been rectified and rebolted.

1.3.10. Terry's Creek 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.779440, 151.092716

description

A well travelled crag by friendly local walkers, some potential for new boulders. Climbing at this crag is relatively new, so make sure to be kind to passers by (explain to them what you are doing if needed) and clean up after yourself!

approche

Limited street parking on Anembo Place off Vimiera Road. Walk down stairs at the bottom of the cul de sac and turn left to arrive at the Release The Dragon cave. Cross the creek across some natural stepping stones and follow the trail up and left to the Super Soaker boulder and other potential boulders.

1.3.11. Loading Dock 0 routes in Crag

description

Basic info and problems at www.australianbouldering.com/guides/sydney/Loading_Dock_guide.html

approche

Park at the end of Boundary Rd, North Epping and it is the overlooked crag on the right that you walk past after about 50m of the track to the Fear Factory.

historique

Discovered and developed by Tim O'Neill, Adam Griffiths and Rob Saunders in autumn/winter 2002.

1.3.12. The Grove 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

1.3.13. The Stables 273 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.724618, 151.058563

description

The crag was spotted early in 2002 by Rod Wills during a ridge walk for bouldering spots. Rescouted by Rod and Stephen Hawkshaw in July 2002, when it was decided it would provide a good number of routes. 'The Stables' & 'otherland' are located in Sydney's north west. Most of the cliffs range from 8-10m's , mostly sport.

© (rodw)

approche

Drive to the end of Schofield Pde, Pennant Hills.

Park at the gate signposted "Berowra Valley National Park, Stringy Bark Trail". Walk past the disability services facility for 100m to a track on the left. Follow this for approximately 200m till it heads right towards the oval. Instead of heading right go more or less straight ahead for 50m and there is a rock cairn (?). Turn left and head through scrub to top of little rocky section. Zig down this section till you arrive on the top of a cliff, walk right to a gully. Head down this and you come out onto Cave Wall. There are numerous other ways of getting here this just seems to be the easiest.

For 'Otherland', instead of turning down initial track follow fire trail past oval and down the hill. After about 300-400 metres past the oval, turn left on faint track to top of cliff. 'Access' easiest down left side (ie if facing cliff).

© (rodw)

éthique

These areas are in Berowra Valley National Park, so dogs, fires, rubbish, rock and vegetation damage and other activities prohibited under the Act are forbidden.

© (rodw)

1.3.14. The Power Lines 43 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

description

A new bouldering area to be developed throughout 2015.

This area is an extensive collection of short cliffs and boulders, arranged in roughly four tiers. There is something for everyone, with a good mix of slabs, faces, highballs, and overhangs. Most routes are V0 to V3, but there are harder lines waiting to be discovered.

Limitations de l'accès

Please stick to the footpath to allow the surrounding bush to regenerate. It passes over several rock platforms and is marked with cairns.

The footpath starts at the road, goes through the top tier (Power Station), and ends at the third tier (Secondary Substation). The tracks around the bottom tier (Suburban Network) haven't been finished, so if you're walking around there please tread lightly.

éthique

There is some broken glass and rubbish scattered around the top tier (Power Station) and the second tier (Primary Substation) that needs to be cleaned up.

Please respect the environment. Don't cut down trees or bushes unless they are already dead, or part of an existing footpath.

historique

If you’d like to help develop this area, please contact Chris Sharples.

1.3.15. The Great North Cliff 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.713832, 151.063379

description

A west facing crag which will be better for summer mornings or winter afternoons. The Great North Cliff is located in a shady gully which could make it cold in winter. Sections of The Great North Cliff tends to seep but this doesn't affect all the routes. This cliff line has seen very little traffic and due to this the local vegetation has started to reclaim what was once an impressive local crag. The protection for the sports routes are in excellent condition.

approche

Park at the northern end of Elouera Road in Westleigh where it dog legs and you'll see the wooden sign for The Great North Walk. Grab your gear and head on into the park where the cyclone wire fence is. Walk to the left of this enclosed area where you'll find a well defined trail. Continue along this trail for approximately 6 minutes where it meets up with the Great North Walk (there's a sign to your right). If you wish to rap in, jump the fence here to find DBBs in excellent condition. CAUTION! Set up a safety line before setting up for the rap in as the DDBs are right on the edge. Walk in access is at both the right and left hand sides of the crag. The left hand approach is the easiest. When using the left hand access make your way along the Great North Walk passing 2 individual fence lines. Continue along until you start to zig zag downhill. When you reach the stone steps cut into the side of a big boulder on your left with a little wooden 'Great North Walk" sign immediately after it you know you've reached the left side entry point. Turn to your right and follow the high rock line. The walk in from here takes approximately 2 minutes with some mild bush bashing. The bolts for Lust Object will appear on your right.

1.3.16. Lake Parramatta 9 routes in Area

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.788358, 151.010930

description

A large area with heaps of rock but few climbs. Good for locals, or those who like a bit of a walk. Lucky the scenery's nice.

approche

The size of this reserve means there are several approach options depending on which climb you're up for. A little over an hour's walk from Parramatta Station if you're not lazy. Best car access is Illawong Drive off Lackey Street in North Parramatta, but there's also a pretty good car park off North Rocks Road between numbers 94 & 92.

historique

Surely someone climbed here before...

1.3.17. Rosemead 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.697525, 151.085575

résumé

Collection of boulders off the Rosemead trail

description

New area with much development possible.

approche

From the end of Rosemead Rd in Hornsby, follow the Rosemead trail for about 5-10 min across the creek and up the hill until the path goes down hill again. The boulders are near the path.

1.3.18. Hunter's Cave 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.842578, 151.173704

résumé

A small overhang with fantastic views of Cockatoo Island and the west side of the harbour.

description

A small lowball overhang within Clarkes Point Reserve with a few short roof climbs on mixed quality rock, be ready to do some cleaning if you plan on climbing here until it picks up some more traffic. Nonetheless all key holds are bomer on relatively coarse sandstone and make for some fun short and quite challenging problems with thought provoking foot work needed to keep you from hitting the ground.

Limitations de l'accès

Other than the fact that it can be busy with non-climbers on a nice day when people are out and about you shouldn't run into any problems.

approche

Free parking can be found at Frankie Ave and the beginning of Clarke Rd as to avoid the paid parking further down the hill in the park. The 505 can be caught from town hall and along Victoria Rd through Balmain and Drummoyne, 538 from Gladesville and surrounding area and the F8 ferry from circular quay. Make your way through the car park into the park and towards the foreshore. As you walk past the large wide old boat ramp laiden with wooden logs continue to follow the shore line and you should be able to see the overhang positioned on top of the hill. There are various little trails from different angles heading up to the overhang, choose any.

1.3.19. 9 degrees Parramatta 9 routes in Gym

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.815722, 151.039782

résumé

9 degrees Boulder Gym in Rydalmere

description

Welcome to 9 degrees Parramatta, Western Sydney's premier bouldering facility!

At 9 degrees we pride ourselves on providing you with the latest in climbing walls, hand hold shapes and route setting along with the friendly staff and barista quality coffee to keep you coming back for more. Whether you're a first time climber or an elite athlete, our facility has everything you need.

HOURS MON TUE WED and FRI 10:00 - 22:00 THURSDAY 16:00 - 22:00 SATURDAY and SUNDAY 9:00 - 22:00 PUBLIC HOLIDAYS 9:00 - 22:00 CLOSED 25 Dec and 1 Jan only.

We are open until 10pm 7 days a week so come give us a try. Very easy to get started and no experience, equipment or booking required.

approche

9 degrees Parramatta Unit 11 METRO CENTRE 38-46 South St Rydalmere NSW 2116 Sydney, Australia (GOOGLE MAPS LINK)

Website: www.9degrees.com.au Email: 9degreesParramatta@gmail.com Facebook: fb.com/9degreesparramatta Instagram: instagram.com/9degreesparramatta Gym Front Desk: 02 8872 1052 Manager mobile: 0422 854 048 (Jack Masel)

How to reach us

Car - Turn off Victoria Rd and park anywhere near our main entrance. More parking along South Street in the (free) Council parking lot in the park.

Bicycle - Use the excellent bicycle path along Parramatta River to get home, or to a train, bus or ferry stop.

Ferry - Rydalmere wharf is 600 m from our front door and provides a great way to get to anywhere along the Parramatta river. Ferry time tables here.

Train - Closest is Rydalmere station (18 min walk), but trains are more frequent from Parramatta central station.

historique

Opened 3 June 2017

1.3.20. Bloc Climbing Centre 39 routes in Gym

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.797941, 151.004405

description

If you climb at Bloc Climbing Centre you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

approche

2/23 Castle Street, North Parramatta NSW

1.3.21. The Climbing Centre 0 routes in Gym

description

https://www.climbingcentre.com.au/

16 Borec Road, Penrith, New South Wales 2750

1.3.22. Summit indoor rock climbing 0 routes in Gym

description

40 Third Ave, Blacktown, Sydney, New South Wales

1.3.23. The Edge Adventure Centre 0 routes in Gym

description

http://www.edgerockclimbing.com.au/

9/10 Hudson Ave, Castle Hill, Sydney, New South Wales 2154

1.3.24. Climb Oz 0 routes in Gym

description

http://www.climboz.com/

40 Third Ave, Blacktown, New South Wales 2148

1.3.25. Marsfield 42 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.762334, 151.116834

description

Located behind Macquarie University Northern Field lies a cliff line holding a few classic moderate climbs.

approche

Park at the north end of Busaco Road, Marsfield. At the end of the road you will notice a stretch of concrete with a white gate at the end. Walk past this gate and follow the powerlines for about 200m, passing the powerlines tower on your left and the chain-linked fence on your right. You will see a locked gate in the fence, and immediately opposite a small trail leads down the hill. This brings you to some old stone stairs through the cliff. Chewbacca Slab is to the left of the stairs, looking at the cliff.

There is also a trail a bit further back which comes out near the top of "Deep Impact".

1.3.26. The Campus 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.761588, 151.113367

résumé

A small but fun bouldering area. There are a number of semi-isolated blocks up to about 4m, with a main cave that has been the focus of development. As usual for new areas be wary of loose rock.

approche

From the end of Busaco Rd in Marsfield follow the firetrail just left of the concrete drivewaydown to the high tension power tower. Cut across diagonally (on a small track) from the east side of the power tower to the north side. Find a gully 20 m directly downhill from the tower. Turn left at the bottom and walk abother 20m or so to the obvious cave.

historique

There is some evidence of previous climbing, but the cave was discovered and developed by Dave Hughes in 2014.

1.3.27. The Kwarry 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.784255, 150.994226

résumé

Classic crag, most of original problems are now broken/chipped. But the rock is still really nice and holds lots of potential for new routes. Lockdown project perhaps?

description

Northmead Quarry, now located in Charles Herbert Reserve, was one of Sydney's first bouldering areas. According to the old guide books it contains one of the longest single sandstone walls in Sydney and is one of the most accessible crags in Western Sydney. Lots of problems and landings are beautifully flat and grassy.

A bit of tlc is still needed to bring this classic crag back to its former glory.

Limitations de l'accès

The Quarry is surrounded by peoples houses and backyards on all sides, please be courteous, no loud music, swearing, etc. Access depends on keeping the locals happy.

approche

The crag is located in Charles Herbert Reserve. Access is via the eastern side of Whitehaven Road. Good street parking available.

5 minute walk from Windsor Road where plenty of buses pass by.

historique

The 2001 Sydney Bouldering guide contains more detail on this classic crag.

One of the first bouldering areas in Sydney, Northmead Quarry was largely forgotten in the 1990s. As of 2020 most of the original climbs are chipped and the Hyper classic arete described in the 2001 book has fallen over. But the rock is still really nice and holds lots of potential for new routes. Lockdown project perhaps?

1.3.28. Unnamed crag 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Style inconnu

résumé

A newly discovered crag under development. Climbs will be listed to maintain an accurate account of ongoing development.

1.3.29. Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek 97 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.765279, 151.003644

approche

Park at the end of Linton Street near the big roundabout.

From there you should be able to see a set of wooden stairs where the access track starts. Once you are inside the bush, take the first right on another set of stairs and follow the trail all the way down to the river.

You will arrive just in front of Biame bloc and the Startcourt Mall will be on the other side of the river.

For the popular Whipper Real Estate block (M2 boulder), keep following the trail for approximately 5 minutes until you see the M2 bridge. The boulder will be just in front of the massive structural pillar.

1.3.30. Bidjigal Reserve - Heidi Place 42 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.758173, 151.027408

approche

The approach can't get any easier than this, less than 5 minutes walking on flat ground in a very wide gravel road.

Park at the end of Heidi Place, West Pennant Hills, 2125. There's 3 parking spots on the right side before the chained gate. If those spots are full, parking is availalbe on the left side of the road along side the houses.

1.3.31. TBA 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

1.4. Northern Beaches 1,349 routes in Region

1 2 5 3 4 6 7 8 11 9 15 10 13 16 14 17 21 18 12 22 19 23 20 24 25 28 26 31 30 27 29

1 Barrenjoey 2 Palm Beach Boulders 3 Whale Blocks 4 Whale Beach 5 Mckay Reserve 6 Mona 7 Elanora Heights 8 Narrabeen 9 Valley Lines 10 Wheeler Creek 11 Cromer Heights 12 Allambie Heights 13 The Den 14 Frenchs Forest 15 The Schoolyard 16 The Saddle Club 17 Red Hill 18 Northern Beaches Rockhouse 19 Manly Dam 20 Seaforth 21 Dee Why 22 North Curl Curl 23 South Curl Curl 24 Freshwater Beach 25 North Harbour Slab 26 Black Cave 27 Rush Bay 28 Shelly Beach Headland 29 North Head 30 WB 31 WF

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.700369, 151.281131

description

The Northern Beaches of Sydney include the suburbs of Manly, Pittwater and Wakehurst.

1.4.1. Barrenjoey 184 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.580298, 151.328318

description

A selection of crags, including one very popular crag (Southwest) located on the Barrenjoey Peninsula. Quite an extensive area, with good rock and a good selection of easy and middle grade (and generally slabby) routes.

Limitations de l'accès

There is an Aboriginal midden located underneath the cliff at Southwest and below Crack of Dawn - please do not disturb the midden. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here. From the 2024 plan of management: The following conditions will apply to rock climbing and abseiling at Barrenjoey Head: • participants must minimise environmental impacts to the cliffs and surrounding vegetation and comply with any relevant code of practice • consent is required for groups of 10 or more, or for all commercial rock climbing and abseiling activities • the safety of participants continues to be the responsibility of participants and their companions • new or replacement bolts may only be installed with NPWS consent (NPWS will not install, assess or guarantee bolts or other fixed protection points).

approche

See individual crag access notes

éthique

The area is mostly mixed climbing - many climbs are bolted ("carrot" hanger-less bolts for the most part) but also require some trad gear.

1.4.2. Palm Beach Boulders 59 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.595601, 151.324523

résumé

Two large and prominent stand-alone boulders on the sand in the middle of Palm Beach with some good problems on them

Excellent for a day of bouldering and a swimming.

© (sm)

description

The North Palm Beach bouldere have been moved to Barrenjoey.

Storm Update: The sand comes and goes, some problems may now start under it, others may now be much higher than they were initially.

The numbered alternate names for problems are from Peter Balint's "Sydney Bouldering" Guide from 2001 (http://www.australianbouldering.com/guides/sydney/sydney_guide)

© (sm)

approche

For the boulders in the middle of Palm Beach, continue on Barrenjoey road around the to the ocean side of the peninsula and drive south along the beach until you see the two large boulders. Pull up right next to them.

© (sm)

1.4.3. Whale Blocks 51 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.606990, 151.335428

description

Ocean-side sandstone blocks with plenty of options, located on the rock platform at the northern end of Whale Beach. This is a nice summer afternoon option with a sea breeze and quite some shade, especially in the afternoon.

approche

Located at the Northern end of Whale Beach, park at the (free) public 4P car park opposite 244 Whale Beach Rd and walk down the public pathway straight to the north end of the beach. Alternatively park in the main beach car park and walk up the beach to the boulders. The boulders are described left to right as you get to them from the beach.

Walk to the northern end of the beach, follow the shore line to see the boulders after 100m.

1.4.4. Whale Beach 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Style inconnu, Escalade sportive et Escalade artificielle

Lat / Long: -33.619424, 151.339620

description

A small number of climbs in amongst a large amount of choss at Careel Head, about 5kms south of Barrenjoey. This is more a warning than a guide - the fixed protection is almost all rotten, and the rock is too poor for natural protection in most places. There may be some potential for enjoyable climbing if the existing fixed protection is replaced, but there are far better spots around.

That said, the zawn at the far southern end of the climbing is pretty impressive, and might offer some good DWS opportunities.

approche

From the end of Rayner Rd Whale Beach, walk south along the path to a small lookout area. Head down the obvious path to the left (the path continuing straight past the danger sign ends up on the same track, but is more roundabout).

After heading down to below the small upper cliff line, continue south along the large ledge and past a jumble of fallen blocks. At the far end of the ledge is a line of chipped holds heading down with a large steel bolt at the top (this may have hand lines tied to it - fisherman also use this approach to access the rock platform).

The climbs are to the right and left of this descent, though most are to the right, facing out.

1.4.5. Mckay Reserve 19 routes in Field

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.606105, 151.323894

résumé

McKay Reserve

description

Scattered collection of small boulders, some with good landings. Watch out for the human landmines as some kind folk have been using this area as a toilet.

Limitations de l'accès

None

approche

Park in the second parking area you come to on McKay Road. Walk two minutes through the reserve to the viewpoint. The ripple block is reached by walking right for five meters behind the rock platform and doubling back on yourself. The Anvil block is reached by taking the left path and then turning right down a gulley.

historique

Has been used as drinking spot for teenage derros for years, and probably bouldered on before. It's a great spot to combine a picnic and some low key bouldering, but I wouldn't travel vast distances to get here.

1.4.6. Mona 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.680040, 151.277583

historique

Damo Alexander found and developed late 2000s.

1.4.7. Elanora Heights 61 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.704942, 151.267891

résumé

A real gem with a tonne of classic sports routes. Bulletproof sandstone with some of the most amazing climbing in Sydney, a urban crag that has a mountains vibe.

description

The crag faces Southwest, gets all day shade and is always a few degrees cooler than Sydney. Elanora is also a great wet weather option with some climbs remaining bone dry even in heavy rain

Limitations de l'accès

Access is clear, however please be respectful of residence as there are houses on top of cliff line. Please stay away from the top of the cliff and when cleaning routes try to refrain from shouting loudly.

approche

Find your way to Amaroo Avenue via either Wakehurst Pkwy, or Powderworks Rd. (Please be considerate of the residents in Amaroo Ave, park on the same side as the residents, or up the hill in the street before).

NO DOGS!!!(National Parks Rules)

Located opposite number 10 there is a dirt track leading down a steep grassy hill, follow the track funnelling down to a rock ledge, a Redgum tree and metal rungs.

Please take care these rungs can be dangerous. (two points of contact on different rungs at all times.)

Climb down the metal rungs, at the base turn right as if facing out from cliff line. Keep Following the base of cliff line to another drop off with a metal rung and fixed wooden ladder.

Left Wing wall is after first waterfall then keep following the track for another 120m to reach the cliff proper.

éthique

Please don't move boulders or vegetation that aren't directly on a route, leave no trace and take out what ever you bring in.

Try to take care of business before entering the crag and if you must poop please dig a hole as this is on the edge of a National Park.

historique

First developed in the early 90's, this crag was touted as 'the best hard sport crag in Sydney" and was subject to “experimental bolting.”

With recent re-development, new life and new routes have been added to the huge list of routes at the crag. This could not have been possible without the vision and hard work from the original 90's crew. - Peter Martin, Steve Kelly, Jason Rutter, Scott Wilson, Pete James and anyone else who helped out!

1.4.8. Narrabeen 289 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.719687, 151.262374

description

Includes the very popular Slabs and Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side, as well as Pootang Crag, and The Academy and Deep Creek bouldering areas.

© (mjw)

Limitations de l'accès

NOTE: When accessing 'Steep Side', please use the newly installed stile and do not damage the fence where it attaches to the rock. There was a recent encounter with Northern Beaches Council, so please exercise respect and discretion.

And don't park contrary to the signs in the RMS inspection bay.

© (mjw)

approche

The Narrabeen climbing area is located on the Wakehurst Parkway 700m west of the turn-off for the Sydney Academy of Sport. Heading away from Narrabeen you will pass the Academy of Sport with parking available on both sides of the road.

Heading towards Narrabeen, watch out for sign saying ‘Truck inspection station 1.5km’. The slabs are about 1.3km from that sign, at a right bend in the road. Look out for something that looks like a fire trail, then the locked gate to the slabs is just after that.

Narrabeen "Slabs" is accessed by following the path that starts at the locked gate on the right (just before the first sweeping lefthand corner). There is enough space on the road shoulder to park near the gate, or you can park in the large layby.

"Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side" is 200m further west on the left side of the road just before the steel fence. A faint track leads up to the crag.

See "The Academy" and Deep Creek bouldering areas for access descriptions.

© (mjw)

1.4.9. Valley Lines 179 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.733829, 151.257882

résumé

Heaps of potential FA's

description

Massive area with 100s of lines of all different styles.

approche

Park on Maybrook Avenue near the retirement village and take the trail going left into the bush.

1.4.10. Wheeler Creek 4 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.737803, 151.268280

approche

Park at end of Maybrook Avenue in Cromer and make way into bush from culdesac

1.4.11. Cromer Heights 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.728104, 151.262762

description

Mostly High-Ball Boulder Problems. Bring mats and mates. Beware loose rock!

approche

Opp 73 Cromer Rd follow winding track up into fern trap gully. Scramble up rocks and left through scrub rainforest to reach the block.

historique

Possibly spotted someone else chalk on one of the routes? Possibly had someone sleeping in the cave at one point in time.

1.4.12. Allambie Heights 25 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.765287, 151.245615

résumé

Nice sandstone boulders around and access to the walking track makes approaches easier.

description

Watch for broken glass, some people don't know common courtesy

Limitations de l'accès

may be muddy after rainfall

approche

Park near either German Lutheran church or Alambie heights community tennis club and make your way to the walking trail

éthique

Clean up after yourself

1.4.13. The Den 14 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.743908, 151.241298

résumé

One of Bret Easton Ellis's favourite.

description

Sydney cave grunginess at it's finest. Classic include 'Fight Club' (V10) and 'Tyler Durden' (V12)

approche

Park on the Wakehurst Parkway in Frenchs Forest where there are a few white posts to mark a drain and where a power line access track goes up the hill. Follow the power lines up towards where the track ends, head up and left following orange marks on the tree until you reach the cliff line. Further to the right, scramble up some big steps to reach the cave.

Alternative EASIER approach - at the end of paxton street frenchs forest take the trail off to the right before house number 55 and follow it around behind the house until the end of number 55‘s yard. Take a right towards the cliffline and follow the obvious track along the cliffline leftwards(you should be always on top of the cliffline) until you see a huge cave beneath someone's house. That cave is where the den located. Walk back around 10m, and follow a faint track on your right hand side, you will come across a ladder bolted on a tree and a chain, climb down the ladder. The cave will be on your left.

éthique

The most obscene graffiti from the local kids has been cleaned off by Dave and Mike Kellermann and Tim O'Neill but why not have a go cleaning some more off yourself.

historique

Rumour has it that Chris Whiting (NZ) bolted a route here years ago but it was independently discovered by Dave and Mike Kellermann and then developed with the help of Tim O'Neill.

1.4.14. Frenchs Forest 4 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.744793, 151.238205

résumé

Awesome line of boulders ranging through a variety of styles and grades.

description

Small rock shelf containing routes of many different styles. CURRENTLY BEING CLEANED!!!

approche

Park at end of Nandi Avenue and walk down steep gully. It is the first rock shelf as you walk down.

1.4.15. The Schoolyard 0 routes in Area

résumé

Potential for lots and lots of new boulder problems to be made.

description

Range of untouched boulders that look awesome for some FA.

approche

When driving down oxford falls road, park across the road from the mould removal oxford falls straight after the school and walk through the grass field past the old tennis courts into the bush.

1.4.16. The Saddle Club 115 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.743495, 151.251410

résumé

Tired of punting? Feeling like a one trick pony? Get some variety in your life with some sketchy highballs, dynamic throws, flowey warm ups and a couple of minty projects here and there.

description

The crag features a horse trail running throughout it with prominent boulders a quick gallop astray. The pick of the lot are the dynamic Ultralight Seam V6, the intimidating Yea or Neigh? V4 and the techy Sit Down and Hold Your Horses V3.

Second tier of the cliff. The boulder with "Giddy Up!" is the first boulder along the horse trail, next to the sign with "Sven's Horse Track" printed on it. Continue ahead, along the trail for the next set of problems.

Limitations de l'accès

Since it's practically next to the horse trail, make sure you respect the rights of riders and passers by.

approche

You won’t need four legs and some hooves to find your way around this one.

Driving along Wakehurst Parkway, turn east onto Dreadnought Road and continue along it until a kink to the right changes the name into Oxford Falls Rd. Park on a gravel patch about 10m past the driveway to the tennis club on the opposite side of the road. There should be a short 4WD track immediately behind your car.

From the carpark, head in through the track with 4WD marks for roughly 10m. Veer right, passing between two juggy boulders with big scoops on the right to scamper up to the next level via an access ramp. From here, walk straight ahead for 10m, picking up on a faint clearing and a trail, heading left to continue along it for 60m towards the approach boulders.

éthique

If putting up any first ascents, wire brushing is never acceptable on sandstone. Chipping is a no go.

Brush your tick marks and take your rubbish out with you. Please don’t chuck banana peels off the track or else I’ll call the cavalry on you.

historique

This crag was originally discovered and developed in 2009 by Damo Alexander. The crag was then named The Promised Land.

Shoutout to Marc F, Hai T, Stephen R, Connor S and last but not least, the Millarpede in all his glory for spotting and putting up climbs in the area.

1.4.17. Red Hill 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.745643, 151.253323

résumé

New area with a range of boulders to be found if one wants to bush bash.

description

Small boulders all the way to massive highballs or potential for sport.

1.4.18. Northern Beaches Rockhouse 41 routes in Gym

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Bloc et Moulinette

Lat / Long: -33.764384, 151.277451

description

If you climb at Rockhouse you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

approche

Unit 4E, 9 - 13 Winbourne Road, Brookvale, NSW, 2100

1.4.19. Manly Dam 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.776278, 151.250285

1.4.20. Seaforth 4 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.780728, 151.236514

1.4.21. Dee Why 2 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.760182, 151.301497

1.4.22. North Curl Curl 7 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.766959, 151.301806

description

Easy bouldering on the slabs on the sand, and some more fun stuff on the rock shelf and around the headland. Most of the rock is pretty crumbly, so test holds before using them.

approche

Park near North Curl Curl SLSC and walk down onto the beach, following the headland around to the north. Some rock scrambling required to avoid the water at high tide. Alternatively take the headland path outside the surf club, following it to the stairs for the pool (shelf to the left, slabs to the right). For Wavecave walk towards rock pool and around headland towards deewhy beach.

historique

Research was not able to turn up any records of climbing here, however I don't have access to any physical books, so if you're aware of any historical routes, feel free to request edit permission and add them.

1.4.23. South Curl Curl 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.777141, 151.293792

résumé

Range of boulder problems alongside ocean-side walkway.

approche

Located on rocks below ocean-side walkway.

1.4.24. Freshwater Beach 35 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.782482, 151.292818

description

Some decent bouldering on the beach and rock platform at the north end.

Much more adventurous climbing at the south end with some bigger sea cliffs. There are some reasonable looking boulders here that have probably been climbed at some point in the past.

1.4.25. North Harbour Slab 15 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.800719, 151.266680

description

A collection of V0s & V1s with easy access on a sunny 2m slab and couple of other boulders.

All these routes have been climbed for decades, please do some research before claiming FAs.

approche

Park in Gourlay Ave Balgowlah, or the beach carpark at the end of the street. Take the track uphill opposite the 2nd last house and Spit to Manly walk marker, past a water pipe. About 100 metres up the hill, you'll come to some rocks. From the top look south & you'll see North Harbour Slab below you.

State of overgrowth may vary. In 2019 it is not burnt as in the topo, with soft ferns and leaf litter.

historique

This micro crag has been used by climbers desperate for a hit for years. Probably first discovered by Bryden Allen or one of his mates in the 50s.

Hopefully some more visits will help keep it less overgrown.

1.4.26. Black Cave 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.805297, 151.272203

résumé

Only a few problems here; however what Black Cave lacks in quantity it makes up in quality of climbs.

description

AKA Manly Cave AKA Forty Basket Beach

approche

Park on Beatty St and take a narrow walkway from about halfway down the street, with stairs all the way to the beach. Hang a right and then walk along the rocky shoreline a couple of hundred meters to the crag. http://youtu.be/5SUPg5N0hvw

historique

First climbed in 2007.

1.4.27. Rush Bay 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.810704, 151.274469

1.4.28. Shelly Beach Headland 69 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.801489, 151.300676

résumé

Good scenic sea-side bouldering with 5 min access.

description

Scattered freestanding boulders on the sea platform below Shelley headland.

Limitations de l'accès

Normal high and low tides are fine but a high easterly swell will get most boulders wet with spray. Bring a towel or sponge.

approche

Park at the end of Bower Street. There is free unlimited street parking before you get to the paid 10P parking area and the end.

On the ocean side, decend the gully at the South end of the carpark. At the bottom turn right following the path above the boulders. When the path ends scramble down.

1.4.29. North Head 38 routes in Crag

Summary:

Style inconnu, Escalade traditionnelle et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.816441, 151.299569

description

On the cliffs below the lookouts at the very end of 'North Head'.

© (christo)

approche

To get to the top of the Fear and the Bolt Ladder, walk ~10 m towards the ocean from the western lookout. Go down a small set of stairs and then jump the fence when the big concrete and rock pad (the old lookout) appears on the right. Both routes top out below the far side of this. The fisherman's descent is ~50 m further to the east and can clearly be seen from the top of the Fear.

© (christo)

1.4.30. WB 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.809567, 151.266253

Limitations de l'accès

Sydney Harbour National Park. Rock climbing is prohibited.

1.4.31. WF 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.809336, 151.266196

description

Kellerman and Forward crag developed in the early 2000s.

Limitations de l'accès

Rock climbing is prohibited in Sydney Harbour National Park.

1.5. North Shore 2,091 routes in Region

24 31 19 23 29 30 20 22 15 18 16 21 13 14 17 12 11 3 26 9 8 10 7 6 27 5 25 33 34 4 28 2 1

1 Blues Point 2 Kurraba Point 3 The Spit 4 Clifton Gardens 5 Obelisk Beach 6 Balmoral 7 Cremorne 8 Cammeray 9 Bicentennial Reserve 10 St Leonards 11 Castlecrag 12 Middle Cove 13 Castle Cove 14 West Roseville 15 Lindfield Rocks 16 Lindfield West 17 Chatswood West 18 Killara 19 St Ives 20 East Killara 21 Killarney Heights 22 Forestville 23 Wahroonga 24 North Wahroonga 25 Greenwich 26 Lane Cove 27 Riverview 28 Waverton 29 Belrose 30 Twin Creeks 31 Timbarra Boulders 33 Get Bent 34 Berry Island Reserve

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.775265, 151.355410

résumé

Bouldering, lead and trad on good quality sandstone.

description

The North Shore has something on offer for all lovers of chalk and rock. There's the Old classic spots like the amazing highballs at Lindfield Rocks, Pumpy much loved problems of Sissy Crag and some brilliant trad at Brown's Road.

New to the Area is the Lindfield-like When Crags Collide, the diverse, unappreciated Blues Point and some Slab-tastic climbing at Harbour Side Slabs.

éthique

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

historique

The North Shore has seen some amazing climbs and problems put up over time with a slump in its development during the early 2000s.

However that all changed with the turn of the decade seeing the start of the Great Bouldering Boom with the North Shore getting some much needed development attention by a group of enthusiastic lovers of rock.

The word on the street is that this attention will only increase as the years go by, making the North Shore a strong epicenter of climbing in Sydney

1.5.1. Blues Point 56 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.849978, 151.203218

description

A 35m long quarried cliff that has a mass of good, unappreciated boulder problems on it. A few great mantles and some V1's makes this place good for beginners, with a few harder problems scattered throughout.

We all started out as beginners so some VERY easy problems have been developed for those just discovering the love of rock. Become comfortable with the rock, then face the battle of the psychological challange.

With the Harbour Bridge to your right and the harbours water's lapping behind you, this crag will offer you more than just a good climb, it'll offer you some amazing views as well!

Most problems finish halfway up the wall. Of course if one wants to, all problems can be topped out, with more highballs being developed all the time.

News Flash: Blues Point now new and improved with added top rope problems! Gear not included.

Council have also placed a permanent wheelie bin at the base of the crag next to Letterbox Crack. Ensure care is taken when traversing I Can See The Clock But I Don't Know What The Time Is .

approche

Drive, ride or walk down to the end of Blues Point Road where you'll hit a car park with an awesome view of the Harbour Bridge and city.

Walk through Blues Point Reserve, past the play ground and toilets and then round the point past all the fishermen. In under 2 minutes you've come across the first wall with two more only meters away.

historique

Well hello there I'm glad you stopped by. Why don't you take a seat and I'll tell you a story of how it all began.

Now being so close to the city and with the iconic over hang of Balls Head on the opposing shore, Blues Point has been crawled over for years but until recently very few routes had been developed with almost no beta being placed in guide books or online.

Blues Point was first develoepd by Brendon Allan Flanagan in early 2011 and was his first ever 'crag project'. Then in 2012 from sunny Queensland came Ranger Dave who found Blues Point on another climbing web site which will not be mentioned because as we know thecrag.com is the best!

Ranger Daves keen eye for detail could see that Blues Point had so much more to offer the climbing community than what Brendon Allan Flanagan had revealed. Tirelessly Ranger Dave toiled, and toil did Ranger Dave until all the wonders hidden in every crimper, pocket and jug were discovered.

It was at this point Brendon Allan Flanagan and Ranger Dave joined forces to use their powers to persue world domination...they then decided developing more problems and climbs would be a far better idea instead. So like two giddy school girls the night before the school dance (Daves quote, not Brendons), together they focused their excitment on the undeveloped rock in Sydney.

And the Sydney climbing community lived happily ever after.

Ranger Dave and Brendon Flanagan developed this crag so that all chalk bearers could share the love of Blues Point.

Blues Point was the epicentre for the Gret Bouldering Boom.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

1.5.2. Kurraba Point 26 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.845754, 151.223333

1.5.3. The Spit 84 routes in Area

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.807328, 151.248664

1.5.4. Clifton Gardens 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.839793, 151.252907

description

Decent overhanging boulder. All problems are sit starts. Assume that the pebble-shaped supporting boulder is out for feet. Topos and problems to be added soon

1.5.5. Obelisk Beach 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.830052, 151.261094

résumé

Harbourside bouldering with a few steep climbs on the East side of the beach and a few more straight wall climbs to the south of the beach. Pretty spot with good rock quality.

description

Harbourside bouldering with a few steep climbs on the East side of the beach and a few more straight wall climbs to the south of the beach. Pretty spot with good rock quality.

approche

Drive to Chowder Bay Road and park in a pay and display area. For the roof climbs east of Obelisk beach take the trail down to Obelisk beach and walk 40m along the rocks past the east end of the beach. For the orange straight wall area, park on chowder bay road at the third parking area counting from the Obelisk Beach track. Then walk down the track at the southern most end of this parking area and follow the track to the right at each splitting. Wen you reach the rocks, turn left until you see the orange wall.

1.5.6. Balmoral 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.826183, 151.251446

description

Vertical Beach climbing. You'd be better off going for a swim or grabbing a cappuccino Couple of roof problems just off the beach in Lawry Plunkett Reserve.

approche

It's the "island" right in the middle of Balmoral Beach. Or park in Botanic Road for Lovers Tiff.

1.5.7. Cremorne 30 routes in Region

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.823341, 151.223341

résumé

Currently one listed crag, but there's surely more rock around this steep suburb.

1.5.8. Cammeray 36 routes in Area

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.818691, 151.217874

1.5.9. Bicentennial Reserve 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.813895, 151.204835

résumé

Henry Lawson Cave's nearby boulders. Very easy access and plenty of boulder problems to be cleaned up and sent.

Limitations de l'accès

Council permission has been granted to climb at Bicentennial Reserve, Climbing must be done in a way which damages the features least, stay away from crumbly stuff and brush away chalk.

approche

Park at the bottom carpark at willoughby leisure centre, walk down the steps of the amphitheater down the path below the basketball courts and you'll end up at the cave. Boulders are immediately left and right of this.

1.5.10. St Leonards 39 routes in Area

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.817846, 151.189303

1.5.11. Castlecrag 7 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.802138, 151.221043

1.5.12. Middle Cove 99 routes in Area

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.793196, 151.214633

description

Situated in the leafy and peaceful North Shore of Sydney this hidden gem has lots on offer.

The crags located in Middle Cove offer many top rope climbs with some trad, sport and bouldering.

1.5.13. Castle Cove 12 routes in Area

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.786562, 151.216176

1.5.14. West Roseville 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Bloc et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.791012, 151.164943

résumé

A small North Shore crag that rises up over a choss band. An interesting range of moderate to difficult sport, bouldering, trad and toprope routes.

description

A North Shore zero access sport crag! Has a number of cool little lines, including a great little 24 that busts through a roof! Climbs described left to right.

Limitations de l'accès

The crag is in Lane Cove National Park so no dogs, fires or rubbish. Also be mindful of the neighbors as it is quite close to their back yard.

approche

Park on the corner of Shirley Rd and Valleyview Close, Roseville. Wander down hill into the bush trending left and you'll find the crag. Or take a faint track between number 130 and a light pole, past a boulder on your left, then veer right then back left to the top of the cliff to come out directly above Thunderbird. Descend to the right via chopped steps and boulder scramble.

historique

Heavily chipped and now overgrown

1.5.15. Lindfield Rocks 230 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.768556, 151.178951

description

Highly popular, historic bouldering destination. Mostly vertical, with some steeper stuff, some highball, some safe.

Millions of variations on the described problems exist, and everything's been done. Have fun and explore.

Comments on grades and star ratings are welcomed.

Useful Info: Problems are described right-to-left. Take care with landings. Most high problems have toprope bolts in place to save erosion and tree damage - use them if you're toproping! If it's damp/sandy, try to stay off to minimise wear.

Problem selection based on 'Sydney Bouldering', 2001 Peter Balint et al, which you really should buy as a Sydney boulderer.

© (Atrax)

approche

Near the corner of Archbold Road and Tryon Road in Lindfield is a small driveway (turn right off Archbold before it becomes Eastern Arterial Road and it's immediately after).

Park up and follow the trail to the right of the tennis courts for two minutes to the crag. Convenience!

© (Atrax)

1.5.16. Lindfield West 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.769625, 151.175883

résumé

Short cliff and boulders in Seven Little Australians Park.

description

Short cliff with slabs and cracks next to path with pleasant bush valley outlook. A bit of leaf litter and lichen as well.

approche

Park opposite 17 Slade Ave Lindfield at the entrance to Seven Little Australians Park. Follow the track through the stone archway about 120m downhill until it turns left and passes under the lookout and some short walls. Climbs described from left to right facing cliff.

historique

Probably climbed and abseiled in the past by 1st Lindfield Scouts as their hut is in sight, and Sun, Surf and Sandstone - A Rockclimber's Guide to Sydney mentions "there are some old manky bolts to be found about the place" (on Bunty's Block).

1.5.17. Chatswood West 36 routes in Region

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.792787, 151.155564

résumé

Scattered low volume crags.

description

There are plenty of boulders and small cliff lines along the lane cove river valley and its tributaries. Most are low volume.

1.5.18. Killara 88 routes in Area

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.768138, 151.141433

1.5.19. St Ives 17 routes in Area