Southern Tablelands Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Southern Tablelands 1,778 routes in Region

1 17 15 16 19 12 13 11 14 10 8 20 21 9 5 4 18 6 7 2 3

1 Cinderella Crag 2 Bungonia Gorge 3 Nerriga 4 Bundanoon Bouldering 5 The Monastery 6 Wingello 7 Badgerys Lookout 8 Belanglo State Forest 9 Binalong 10 Berrima Bouldering. 11 Mount Alexandra 12 Mount Alexandra Lookout Road bouldering. 13 Area 51 14 Mt Gibraltar 15 Hillbilly Highway Walls 16 The Tunnel Cluster 17 Wollondilly River Valley 18 The Loony Bin 19 The Sanctuary 20 Penrose Forest 21 Goulburn & Surrounds

Summary:

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Saison

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -34.952641, 149.589797

Limitations de l'accès

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

hérité de New South Wales and ACT

1.1. Cinderella Crag 24 routes in Crag

6 5 4 3 2 1

1 Top Deck 2 Pitt Street Wall 3 White Knight Wall 4 Pumper Wall 5 Sandy Cave 6 Vertical Face

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.265714, 150.547712

résumé

A sport-climbing crag up steep white and orange sandstone. It is full of features and up to 40 metres in height. French translation of Cinderella is "of the ashes"

description

Crag gets morning sun, and shade after about 1pm. The base of the crag is a bit of a dustbowl - bring a large rope tarp. The crag also appears to heavily seep after extended rain.

Limitations de l'accès

None… Until they lock the fire road gate then expect a long walk or bike ride. Keep a low profile when drilling, there are some people lurking around the fire trails on the weekends. Well maintained fire trail access is fine with a 2WD with good clearance

approche

From Sydney, get on the M31 freeway and head south, take the Bargo exit. From here locate Avon Dam road and follow this for 3.5 km, cross the railway and turn left into Bargo River Rd and continue for a further 4.5km until your speedo reads 8km. I think the road changes its name somewhere along this section of road to Wilson Drive Reset your speedo here at house number 392. or - Type up "392 Wilson Dr, Balmoral NSW 2571" in Google Maps and reset your speedo here.

Turn left opposite the house and cross the rail

0.1km - Cross the railway

0.8km - Pass thru open gate and continue along dirt fire trail for 4.5km (just under 10min drive)

5.3km - Arrive at commuter car park

From here its an easy 2 min walk to the crag (follow the grey tape in the trees)

où dormir

Camping is possible at the top of the crag.

éthique

Ring bolted sport routes with lower offs

historique

Discovered by Mark Farrell 15 years ago. Simon Vaughan given a pass after much badgering.

1.1.1. Top Deck 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.266350, 150.548014

description

A short, overhung wall of good rock above and left of the main wall - directly above Wee Bean & First Blood.

approche

On the walk in, you will find a fixed rope leading across an orange wall to the big ledge and DRB belay.

informations pour la descente

All routes have lower-offs.

1.1.2. Pitt Street Wall 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.266247, 150.547974

description

The main wall and the first reached when you get to the bottom of the cliff. Nice white and orange rock with a squillion ringbolts. The start of all routes are quite hard on very polished white rock.

approche

At the base of the descent gully.

informations pour la descente

All routes have lower-offs.

1.1.3. White Knight Wall 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.265902, 150.547568

description

The continuation of Pitt Street Wall to the right. This is mostly heavily vegetated but a couple of routes force there way through the greenery. White Knight is the only worthwhile route.

1.1.4. Pumper Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.265614, 150.547454

description

45m of steep over hanging stone. 3 routes off the communal start at the moment and scope for a couple more routes off the balcony.

approche

The next wall past the vertical wall.

1.1.5. Sandy Cave 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.265417, 150.547462

description

Steep rock hard cave with fine white sandy bottom.

approche

A further two minutes walk along the base of the cliff past some great caves.

informations pour la descente

Lower offs.

1.1.6. Vertical Face 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.265211, 150.547471

description

Area of vertical faces left of the Sandy Cave.

approche

1 minute further along the cliff line

1.2. Bungonia Gorge 326 routes in Crag

2 8 7 3 6 5 4 10 11 14 13 12 15

2 North Wall - Main 3 North Wall - Chicken Wall 4 South Wall - Main 5 South Wall - Nosferatu Wall 6 South Wall - Phantom Menace Wall 7 South Wall - Efflux Crag 8 South Wall - Little Thai Wall 10 South Wall - Cooee Point 11 Reflux Crag 12 SRC Crag 13 Bungonia Bouldering 14 Bungonia Canyoning North 15 Bungonia Canyoning South

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -34.825203, 150.017957

résumé

Limestone gorge two hours from Sydney, three from the blue mountains. Need I say more. Only 1.5hrs from Canberra

description

Up to 300m limestone multi-pitch climbing with single pitch sport and bouldering at the base. Some shorter climbs are on scattered crags at the top of the gorge (Reflux Crag, SRC Crag). Rap-in, climb-out area at Cooee Point.

Limitations de l'accès

The park is occasionally closed for feral animal control. Check here: http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/alert/state-alerts

approche

For the main deal, drive to the end of "The Lookdown road" and park 200m before the lookout at the toilets. Take the walking track called "Red track" around the gate, on the left as you come in. Then 30-40 min steep walk down into the slot canyon. (Check the map at the carpark to make sure your heading the right way down the 5hr "Red track" circuit.)

Cooee Point, Reflux Crag and SRC Crag are a 15 minute walk from the lookout, if you find your way OK.

Bungonia Gorge - 20231104_124048.jpg

où dormir

Camping on site. $10 per night plus $7 per car.

https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/camping-and-accommodation/campgrounds/bungonia-campground

1.2.1. North Wall - Timbuktu 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

résumé

Many miles from anywhere -with access debacle to match.

1.2.2. North Wall - Main 41 routes in Area

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et Escalade artificielle

Lat / Long: -34.795278, 150.016861

description

This wall, one of the two main walls of the gorge, has some amazing routes. Unlike the South Wall, though, you have to rap back down whatever you've climbed all the way to the floor of the gorge, then walk out the long grind back uphill to the car. Allow an hour or two for the rap descent and walk-out, and bring a head torch!

© (redheckler)

approche

The walk-down should take 25-30 minutes to the creekbed, then another few minutes to walk 100-200m down the creek to where the routes are. North Wall is on your left as you walk downstream.

Don't loiter where the descent track meets the creek bed. There are lots of goats high on the opposite hillside and they regularly knock rocks loose, which funnel down a gully to land near where the track emerges. A second gully similarly funnels any goat-loosened rocks down onto the area around Green Peace (left of Strangeness & Charm).

© (redheckler)

1.2.3. North Wall - Chicken Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.795756, 150.019640

description

Big, steep and mostly undeveloped. Probably the greatest potential for hard routes in the country. Apparently the rock quality improves the higher you get.

Being on the North side of the gorge, you have to allow time to rap off after doing these routes then walk out.

© (secretary)

approche

Further downstream of the buttress climbed by 'Olympus Mons' is a yellow wall about 60m uphill. I.e. 'Chicken Wall' is the eye catching yellow wall on the righthand end of the 'North Wall'.

© (secretary)

1.2.4. South Wall - Main 46 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et Escalade artificielle

Lat / Long: -34.796539, 150.017406

description

Gets the sun all day up high, hence good for winter climbing. However the Siblings headwall gets shade from about 3:30 PM in the warmer months (and even earlier, around 2:30 PM, for Evolution Direct Finish and adjacent pitches), allowing several hours for shady evening climbing if you time your approach accordingly.

©

approche

Park at William Mitchell carpark. Most people walk down, to do this follow the Red Track into the slot canyon (25-30 minutes). Turn right when you reach the creek bed (don't loiter here; there are lots of goats high on the opposite hillside and they regularly knock rocks loose, which funnel down a gully to land near where the track emerges). Walk downstream for a few minutes; the south wall is on your right.

It is also possible to abseil in. Get to the top of Siblings by walking down the Red Track for 5minutes until the first 10m high outcrop appears about 100m to your left, where you will find a well trodden path which breaks off to the right (at a red star picket) and then traverses across the hillside for about 300m. Once you reach the front of a broad ridge, the top of Siblings is about 100m down the ridge. The rap chains are a few metres from the clifftop, but you still need to approach with caution as the scree is a bit loose. Bring a rope protector for the top edge; and its probably best to fix a rope on the top abseil at least. You can get to the riverbed in 4 abseils (approx 30m, 55m, 55m, 55m). It might even be possible in three long abseils, given that from the clifftop to fifth belay is 60-65m (keep up a swing), fifth belay to third belay is 60-65m, and third belay to ground/bouldertops is about 60-70m(??). The three abseil approach has NOT been tested, but there are plenty of intermediate bolted anchors if you needed to change tactics.

If you're an orange rock snob with an aversion to grey slabs, all of the pitches on the Siblings headwall can be approached by abseil, there are lots of bolted anchors across the top which can be reached from above.

©

informations pour la descente

Many routes top out. To get back to the car its a pretty easy (15-20 minute) walk uphill. Option 1 is to follow the ridge (above Siblings) all the way to the hilltop (~10 minutes), then turn left and follow the plateau rim left through the scrub for about 300m to reach Bungonia Lookdown. Option 2 is to go up the ridge above Siblings for about 100m then pick up a well-trodden trail which heads R (W) and traverses for about 300m into the gully to join the Red Track. Option 1 is quicker if you have a car at the Lookdown but Option 2 is just as quick to the Red Track carpark and is better graded (less steep bits).

©

1.2.5. South Wall - Nosferatu Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -34.796053, 150.015460

description

This is the black slabby portion of the 'South Wall' to the right of the Siblings area, and left of the 'Phantom Menace' area. It's a real shame that most of this sector is inaccessible due to blank overhangs down low.

© (secretary)

1.2.6. South Wall - Phantom Menace Wall 26 routes in Sector

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.795816, 150.014352

description

This is the overhanging wall with some prominent stalactites first up on your right when you enter the gorge walking downstream. There is a big tree'd (Big Greenie) ledge at 30m height. Celestial Mechanics starts from the left end of this ledge. Phantom Menace, Sith Lord and Evil Empire start above and mid way along it. The easiest way onto Big Greenie is via Polenta Pumper (25) - becomes easier with a long stick and some french freeing. Routes are listed from right to left when facing the cliff.

approche

Surprisingly, the walk in to here is very reasonable, and takes a little under 30 minutes at a moderate pace. Speedsters without knee problems could probably get here in 20 minutes. Walking back up the hill will probably take twice as long!

Don't loiter where the descent track meets the creek bed. There are lots of goats high on the opposite hillside and they regularly knock rocks loose, which funnel down a gully to land near where the track emerges.

informations pour la descente

Most routes have bolted lower-off anchors suitable for a single 70m rope.

1.2.7. South Wall - Efflux Crag 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.795693, 150.013278

description

A little wall tucked away near the bottom of the descent track into the gorge.

©

approche

Park at William Mitchell carpark. Walk down the red track. About 50m before you reach the bottom of the gorge, the track turns right and you scramble down a few metres into the creek bed. (it is easy to mistakenly walk past this turn, continuing along the side of the gully to a good view and a dead end). Cross the creek bed and scramble onto the ledge on the opposite side (RHS as you walk down).

©

1.2.8. South Wall - Little Thai Wall 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.795449, 150.012632

description

This little wall is about 25m high and about 80m long. A great little warm up wall offering some of the easiest routes in the gorge. A great place to start to get the feel for limestone.

approche

This little wall is immediately on the left when you get to the bottom of the red track into the slot canyon. 30 mins steep walking from the carpark.

informations pour la descente

All the routes have lower offs.

1.2.9. South Wall - La Rampla 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

description

The big rock above Little Thai Wall

1.2.10. South Wall - Cooee Point 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -34.796947, 150.018627

description

Red Super Giant is currently the only route to start at the bottom of the gorge and finish at this lookout. There are three distinct walls with 1 and 2 pitch rap in routes in this area. The top of the cliff proper is the first, this is Cooee wall. The next wall behind (ie back towards the car park) is Siren wall. The top of Siren wall is the sloping ledge that makes the base of Creole Cruiser wall.

©

approche

From the lookdown car park walk over to the hanging metal grill lookout. From here hop the fence to the L and follow a faint track into the bush, staying on the rim. After about 80m there is a faint ridge/headland (if you take a detour out onto it you can look back and see the lookout hanging out above a vertical cliff). Walk another 20m away from the lookout and you are at the top of the descent gully. Not far down the gully you will pick up the old zigzagging walking track, which goes steeply downhill for 150m to the awesomely airy Cooee Point lookout, with rusty old steel posts and heavy cable wiring.

©

1.2.11. Reflux Crag 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -34.798074, 150.016953

description

Single-pitch sport climbs, close to the car-park. A few good routes and easier access than most, although a little tricky to find the first time.

©

approche

Park at Bungonia Lookdown carpark. Walk towards the lookout and hop over the fence to the left just before you get to it. Follow the rim of the gorge for 50m to a spur or headland. (If you walk out on the headland you can look back to the lookout). From the headland head diagonally downhill and left (looking out) until you see a 15m high buttress. The buttress has a cave that goes all the way through and out the other side. The first three routes are left, right and through the cave. For 'top wall' routes, crawl through the cave and follow the contour right for around 50m.

For Reflux Crag proper, skirt under the buttress (past a 5m high sport project on a mini-arete) and follow the contour right from here.

©

1.2.12. SRC Crag 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:

La plupart Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -34.799187, 150.010381

description

The buttress visible to the east (right, facing out) of Adams Lookout, at the top of the distinctive spine-shaped ridge. Feel The Groove is a great climb and makes the area worth a visit. There are no climbs at Adam's Lookout itself (it is outside the limestone belt, on some kind of loose crumbly "rock").

© (secretary)

approche

From the Adams Lookout carpark, take the green track (near entrance to carpark) east towards the Lookdown lookout. After 50m cross a small railway-sleeper wooden bridge, after which the track turns left. Continue uphill for anther 100m to an open area on the top of a small knoll, before the track does a sharp turn to the right.

From top top of this knoll scramble downhill northwards through the scrub (towards the main gorge) for about 100m, sticking on the ridgeline. You should be near the top of this wee crag. To access the climbs scramble down the right side of the ridge facing out (east).

Alternatively, park in the Lookdown lookout carpark and head along the green track towards Adam's Lookout to the open area on a knoll.

© (secretary)

historique

This area was visited back in the dark ages by the Sydney Rockies. Although not all details are recorded, you will find marked starts for some of these old climbs.

© (secretary)

1.2.13. Bungonia Bouldering 143 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.797812, 150.007373

description

Info coming soon!

1.2.14. Bungonia Canyoning North 4 routes in Unknown

Summary:

Tous Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -34.798880, 149.999542

description

Park at the campground for easy access to these canyons.

1.2.15. Bungonia Canyoning South 3 routes in Unknown

Summary:

Tous Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -34.847259, 150.032037

description

From Bungonia, head out of town on the Lookdown Road for 6.2km, and turn right on to a fire trail which leaves the road between two sections of private property. After 400m you reach a small national park sign and a parking area. From here the road gets rougher and 2wd cars may have some difficulty. You could park here and walk the 2km in. Otherwise, continue through an open gate, along and up a rough and eroded section of fire trail, and through another gate into the national park at MGA263410.

1.3. Nerriga 133 routes in Crag

1 4 5 2 3

1 The Jumps 2 Nerriga Bouldering 3 The Gym and Environs 4 The Gorge 5 old wool north

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Bloc et autres styles

Lat / Long: -35.056149, 150.145693

description

Soft sandstone cliffs, generally cooler than Nowra, and far less crowded. It sees less traffic, so take a brush, and keep an eye out for loose holds.

https://canberraclimbing.org.au/wpcontent/uploads/2016/08/nerriga.pdf this is the most updated guide, apart from the jumps and the gorge it has everything. its also missing a few unknown projects here and there but🤷

Limitations de l'accès

The crag is located in Morton National Park, so the usual rules apply.

approche

The climbing areas are split by the Braidwood road. There are two parking spots depending on which side of the road you wish to climb on.

From Canberra/Nerriga, drive 6.8KM east of Nerriga on the Braidwood Road. Cliffs will rise from the roadside as the road steepens. The main area parking is on the left (North) side of the road after a large embankment and immediately below some cliffs before a large rising road bridge. (marked as orange on the map)

From Nowra, drive along the Braidwood road passing Tianjara falls and Sasafrass. At the edge of the escarpment the road will drop as you see the cliff line. Parking is on the right just after crossing a descending road bridge.

The main parking area is immediately next to the road, it has recently been asphalted making it more obvious and is suitable for all vehicle’s. See individual areas for best access from here. It is also possible to park out of sight across the road. (marked as the orange carpark on the map)

The Gym and environs are accessed by parking at the main parking spot and going underneath the bridge and following the cliff line on your left facing towards the bridge. if you take this method you will be spat out at the far end of Orange wall, from there you can walk to the rest of the areas. (this is quite a bush bash ATM but it will get better with traffick.) If you plan on climbing at The Gym you need to take a different way. the Gym is accessed by driving past the main carpark (going uphill) for 100 metres or so and turning right into a spot where you can park your car. there will be a gate that is sometimes locked but usually isnt. if the gate is locked then you park here and walk up the hill but if its unlocked and you have a 4wd you can drive to the top of the gym. from here walk down an access gully on your right and clip into the fixed rope.

éthique

Standard Nowra, bolts everywhere but make sure you know how to place them and always use glue-ins

1.3.1. The Jumps 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -35.023140, 150.137112

description

Germ Wall and Steel Wall are the first two on the left side. Steep white/yellow rock with ring bolts. Routes were bolted in 2009. both routes are on the left cliff line facing towards them from the road. the left cliff from the road looks worse but it gets bigger and better the further you go.

©

Limitations de l'accès

as there is no info on these climbs (not even in the 2006 guide) the climbs have non descriptions and i am unsure which is which. so the topos might be completely wrong. 50-50 shot

©

approche

Coming from braidwood in the south driving north on the Nerriga Road. Pass through the town of Nerriga, cross the river and after you drive up the hill passing the main Nerriga crag areas take the first dirt road on the left (proper road not a side track,this is sign posted as tolwong road). Drive for about 7km until the road cuts up left before an obvious small rock band. Park and walk down the left creek line (West) for about 400m. There are walls on both sides, the first decent wall being on the RHS, continue along the RHS cliffs and after the first steep white cliff cross down and over the creek to the other side.

©

historique

Discovered and developed by Chris Warner, with Zac Vertrees (so far).

©

1.3.2. Nerriga Bouldering 41 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -35.090365, 150.137478

Limitations de l'accès

The cliff line is in Morton National Park, anything below the cliff line is private property.

1.3.3. The Gym and Environs 30 routes in Sector

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -35.093128, 150.140484

description

the rarely visited section south of the road. all topos are made from the terribly vague descriptions from the climbs they are more like guidelines. listen to me here TAKE BOLT PLATES!!! almost all the bolts south of the road are on carrots. make sure you have at least 10 before getting on any of the sport routes unless you can see that its on rings. some climbs are a mix between both and the higher bolts you cant tell if they are or not so probably best to take them anyway.

approche

park at the base of a dirt road about 100m along the road from the main carpark. walk along it (or drive along it if you have a serious 4wd. not for the average climbmobile) and rappel in or scramble down one of the various gullies to reach your favourite areas.

1.3.4. The Gorge 2 routes in Area

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle et Moulinette

Lat / Long: -35.087903, 150.148603

résumé

big gorge with walls of all shapes and sizes including a 120 metres slab with Pinnacles surrounding it and the biggest attraction, the three pitch roof.

description

the main gorge to the east of the road with walls getting up to about 120m theres sure to be heaps of first ascents!

approche

further along the road from The Gym and Environs turn off right after a concrete barrier turns into a metal one and then ends. theres a turn off that takes you to a big power pylon. drive down this, then park. walk down either the descent gully on your right. the best spot to scramble down is by following the powerlines to your right (this might warrent a fixed rope but is possibe without). Or rappel in on a trad anchor at your desired destination. parking lot marked in green on the topo.

to get to the bigger walls drive along even further up the road to nowra until theres a right turn that takes you to a locked gate. follow this road to a pylon and then turn towards the gorge. this road can be driven down with the help of a 4WD otherwise you'll get stuck in a bog. either way its not a super long walk taking about 20 minutes for a walker and only about 5 for a driver. marked in blue on the topo.

où dormir

the power pylons are situated on flat rock and we have camped here in bivvies before (its pretty comfy) or stay at the pub

éthique

Mixed climbing is what we are going for, sport climbs are fine but the ethic is similar to that of cosmic county or taipan (Bolts are fine but use as little of them as possible especially if it can be lead naturally). As per usual chipping is frowned upon.

1.3.5. old wool north 56 routes in Area

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -35.089028, 150.136011

description

the collection of crags north of thee old wool road. only seperated for tidyness

approche

for all of these areas you park in the "obvious" carpark just below the sandstone tower next to the road. you cant miss it.

1.3.6. salival area 0 routes in Area

résumé

under development.

description

an amazing spot, currently underdevelopment. message me for details. biggest walls (200m+) within a reasonable distance from the car. Adventure climbing at its finest, amazing rock quality and amazing size. You wont be seeing anyone out here.

approche

45 minutes to an hour from the car.

où dormir

lots of places to camp, lots of flat ground.

historique

probably climbed by someone before in the deep dark past, but none that I know about.

1.3.7. inoculant walls 0 routes in Area

description

amazing single and mutlipitching of all different styles. something for everyone here

approche

can be reasonable if you know the way. the approach slows down considerably if its raining.

1.4. Bundanoon Bouldering 12 routes in Area

1

1 Coal Mine Boulders

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.676542, 150.293658

résumé

some small pockets of good quality bouldering

description

the area of Morten National Park accessible through Bundanoon is littered with cliff lines, although most of the rock quality is poor there are a few isolated areas that have gsolid and interesting rock. rock

Limitations de l'accès

from the main street of bundanoon take church street, onto gullies road, all the way to gambells rest.there is a park entrance fee but the access to the coal mine boulders are close to the park entrance, so it is possible to park outside the park.

où dormir

Camping available at Gambells rest. Bundanoon YHA is just down the road and features a bouldering wall and a small mountainbike track

éthique

National Park so keep impacts to minimum

historique

developed in 2011

1.4.1. Coal Mine Boulders 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.673094, 150.295291

description

bouldering area near the erith coal mine

approche

park at Gambells rest (or just outside the park) and follow the erith coal mine walking track for around 500m untill you see the first set of metal stairs. 20m before the stairs head of to the left into the bush. The cave is situated about 20m away from the track. follow the cliff line around further to get to the Boulder of Fortune. the titan cave is accessed by walking about 50m back up the main walking track until you notice a small gully on your left (facing uphill) follow the gully down then the small cliffline around to the right. when the cliff line dissapates head down towards the river and follow it up stream. the cave is probably only 80m from the walking track

1.4.2. Echo point boulders 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.5. The Monastery 104 routes in Crag

1 4 2 3 5

1 Sector 1 2 Sector 2 3 Sector 3 -The Big Cave 4 Roped 1 5 Roped 2

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.676711, 150.254944

résumé

Compact set of sandstone boulders with mostly good landings. A few short bolted routes. Boulders are generally sandy and often covered in the ubiquitous red moss. Bring a soft-bristled brush!

description

The Monastery is a compact collection of sandstone boulders and walls along the base of a small cliff beside the reclaimed site of the old Penrose rubbish dump. There is a lot of rock in the area and no doubt many more fantastic bouldering areas are awaiting discovery nearby.

Limitations de l'accès

The dirt track mentioned in the approach section is 2WD accessible but often covered in fallen branches. If your vehicle has low clearance, the turn off onto the dirt track from Teudts road may be difficult.

approche

From the town of Bundanoon (great for a morning coffee and breakfast before a day at the crag)head towards the town of Penrose on Penrose Road. 3.4 kilometres out of Bundanoon turn left onto Teudts Road. After 400 metres down Teudts Road you will see a small dirt track on your left. Turn in here and follow it along just past the old site of the rubbish dump (now a grass field) just on your left.

historique

It first saw climbers visit in the early 1990’s with Adam Herdman and Pat Butler nabbing a few of the classic roadside face climbs but then more recently saw extensive development by Chas Ruffles, Ian Phillips, Ryan Winn, the Zuchetto Brothers, Phil Staples and more.

The area was burnt in the 2019-2020 summer fires but most problems appear to be unaffected. The following photo shows what the area looks like in June 2020.

The Monastery - monastery_jun2020.jpg

1.5.1. Sector 1 19 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.673983, 150.254078

description

Sector 1 of The Monastery is a collection of blocks just near the main road, where the cliff line begins. It holds some great problems including the fantastic, steep compression problem "Death Of The White Rabbit".

approche

To Sector 1 turn left and follow the track back toward the main road with the grass field on your left and park in the clearing just before the locked gate leading back onto the main road.

1.5.2. Sector 2 75 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.676195, 150.254512

description

Sector 2 of The Monastery is a large collection of boulders laying just beneath the main cliff line. It has several classic hard problems including the incredible "Tufa Line".

approche

For Sector 2, continue straight ahead a short way to a little pull off in the trees on your left, right in front of the first boulders.

1.5.3. Sector 3 -The Big Cave 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.676831, 150.255662

description

An overhung sector of cliffline with some large cave areas and interesting white rock. Stays dry in the rain but has some friable rock.

approche

Continue along the cliff line to the right for another 3 minutes.

1.5.4. Roped 1 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.675904, 150.254698

description

Large white bay situated directly behind boulder 8 (Tuffa lines.)

approche

From the boulder head uphill 5 metres.

informations pour la descente

Lower offs

historique

Bolted sometime ago during the bouldering exploration.

1.5.5. Roped 2 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.677345, 150.255731

description

The far right of Sector 2 Bouldering area. 50 metres past the big white cave with he Shepard’s Bothey in it.

approche

Follow the crag line right, past two large caves.

informations pour la descente

All routes equipped with double lower offs. Routes can easily be set as top ropes if that’s your thing

1.6. Wingello 175 routes in Crag

4 2 1 3

1 Gulp Road 2 The Lost Valley 3 Frosty Hollow 4 Wingello low balls

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.703758, 150.205039

résumé

Wingello has a good variety of climbing combined with fairly easy access and camping which make for a fantastic weekend away. If a day trip is more to your liking, Wingello is only an hour down the freeway from Liverpool in South Western Sydney. So it is well within the 2 hour day trip limit.

description

The crag is located in a great location over looking beautiful bushland about 20 minutes out of Wingello. The best coffee in Wingello is served at the Wingello Village store, which is located just over the railway tracks in the down town metropolis. They also sell pies, bread and basic lunch supplies. Open seven days. They open early on weekdays, but 8am on Saturdays. The walls of Supa Fun Happy and La Paz have some fantastic climbing with amazing almost Grampians like sandstone. Supa Fun Happy is a good wall to start at with a good mix of grades.

Sydney climbing has a detailed guide of the Gulp Rd area at http://www.sydneyclimbing.com/confluence/download/attachments/5406966/Wingello+Climbing+Guide.pdf?version=2&modificationDate=1302047466000

Limitations de l'accès

In 2013 National Parks erected a locked gate 200m from the fire fighters memorial and placed several very large boulders on the road at the entrance of the memorial. Park in the designated car park to avoid blocking the gate or being blocked in by other users.

From Sydney: Wingello is about 1 hour from the M7/M5 intersection and the crag itself is about 20 minutes out of Wingello (depending on your car). Wingello is best reached (from Sydney) by busting straight down the Hume Hwy to the turn off just after the Paddy’s River bridge. You can also go through Bundanoon but its probably a bit slower. From Macca’s on the Freeway its 11.5km to the Wingello turn off, and another 8km from there to the Wingello Railway Crossing. Reset your speedo on the railway line or at the shop .

From Canberra:

Reset Speedo at NSW Border on Federal Highway. The BP at Marulan is 110kms or 1hr drive. Wingello turn off is 124.7km or 1hr 10 mins. The railway crossing at Wingello is 131.6km or 1 hr 15mins.

approche

Detailed Directions from Wingello

1. (0.0km) - Cross the railway track and turn right. Stop at General Store for supplies or lunch. Grab a coffee and a pie.

2. (0.1km)- Take 1st LEFT onto Forest Road.

3. (2.8km)- Continue along into Wingello State Forest,, past the state forest sign.

4. (4.2km)- Turn RIGHT into Running Creek Road at campground ie. The grassy area between the tall trees

5. (4.4km)- Turn LEFT about 100m later into Gulp Road

6. (4.8km)- Veer leftish onto smaller looking road (its still Gulp Road) at first intersection

7. (5.5km)- Veer right at next ‘V’ intersection

8. (8.6km)- Take the LEFT most track at the clearing with the big tree. There is a sign "Morton National Park" at this point. The track gets a little rough from here but is ok for 2wd with a little care. Please ensure you get someone to check your vehicles ground clearance when going over the sharp rises.

9. (10.9km)- Arrive at a fenced carpark with large gate at the northern end. Park here, grab your gear and walk through the gate to the fireman’s memorial.

10. Take the LEFT fire trail down the very steep hill.

11. Eastern Access: After approximately 200m down the hill is a track on the right, this track is to access the cliff from the eastern end. Follow this track for 150m till a small cairn marks the track decent down on the left, follow over a some rock drops and down to a gully.

12. Western Access: (Super Fun Happy Wall, etc) Continue straight down hill to a large flat rock platform. (Tape used to marks most of the trail but if in doubt just follow the cliff line until you come across the access gully). A small cairn marks the track on the right of the platform. Follow down for 100m till you reach some fixed ropes and rungs. The walk in to this access gully takes approx 20 mins from the car.

1.6.1. Gulp Road 151 routes in Area

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.707203, 150.248700

approche

From the parking area, continue on through the gate for 100m to the fireman's memorial. From there, take the blocked road on the left down the steep hill.

For the Western areas: (Super Fun Happy Wall, etc) continue down this to the bottom of the road. Find a small cairn marking the start of the track on the right side of the rock platform, and follow the marking tape, ropes and faint path. After about 100m you will reach some fixed ropes and a rung ladder, it's about 6m to the ground between Candy Deck and Nubigena Wall.

For the eastern areas: take a fading track on the right, about 200m down the steep road from the memorial. Follow this track for 150m till a small cairn marks the track decent down on the left, follow over a some rock drops and down to a gully.

1.6.2. The Lost Valley 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.703500, 150.233843

description

Another sector in the 'Wingello' area under development. See map for directions, there is plenty of scope for hard routes at Section 8.

Section 8 has several steep walls on excellent rock with huge pontential.

Walk in is about 15mins to C-section and 20mins to Section 8. Doesnt get hit as bad from sun as main wingello crag.

© (rodw)

1.6.3. Frosty Hollow 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.712418, 150.264490

description

Its secret

1.6.4. Wingello low balls 4 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.688627, 150.138608

description

Nice spot in the forest to camp, still a lot to develop

1.7. Badgerys Lookout 26 routes in Crag

1

1 Badgerys blocks

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -34.772721, 150.100754

résumé

Badgerys Lookout offers stunning views of the Shoalhaven River.

description

A great crag with a variety of routes from 10m to 25m Carrot bolts, bring your bolt plates to get the most out of the climbs.

Limitations de l'accès

A very easy walk from the carpark to the bottom of the crag. Less than 2 minutes.

approche

From Tallong, turn right onto Caoura Road for three kilometres, then turn right onto Badgerys Lookout Road and follow to the end (approximately four kilometres). Sealed road. Take the track next to the Badgery’s Spur walking trail sign. Follow the path with the cliffs on your left until you come across a small easy gully. Scramble down and keep left along the cliff band. Should take less than 5 minutes.

où dormir

Free camping at Badgery’s Lookout

éthique

A mixture of trad, bolts and old carrot bolts.

1.7.1. Badgerys blocks 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.772339, 150.100469

description

The middle block out of the 3 just down the hill form the cliff line.

approche

Follow the same track as for the bush walk veering off left just after the turn off the the trad and sport routes.

1.8. Belanglo State Forest 54 routes in Area

2 1

1 The Chopping Block 2 Red Arm Creek

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Style inconnu et autres styles

Lat / Long: -34.530091, 150.219281

résumé

Belanglo State Forest is predominately a pine plantation with some areas of native forest around the edges

description

Just over an hour from Sydney, it is a popular recreation spot. Forests in this area are a mixture of pine plantations and native forests. The first radiata pines were planted in this area in Belanglo State Forest in 1919.

1.8.1. The Chopping Block 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.554086, 150.227787

description

Small out crop in Belangalo Forest. Nice featured rock, potential for lots more routes scattered in the gorges around the area.

1.8.2. Red Arm Creek 38 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Style inconnu et autres styles

Lat / Long: -34.512635, 150.209337

résumé

Just like the magical Fontainebleau Forest, this area is home to a maze of scattered out crops and small cliffs and visitors can become lost amoungst the valleys and gently rolling countryside. Unfortunately this is where similarity ends - the rock is typical Southern Highlands sandstone with the inherent dangers of snappiness, moss and drop bears. (But at least the chances of finding a Frenchman pooing at the bottom of your route is much reduced.) The area has the potential for loads of routes both trad and bolted. Keep the cracks natural and get exploring the exciting possibilities that lay scattered across the forest.

description

Lots of cliff to develop. A mixture of trad and bolts.

Limitations de l'accès

As per all State Forest areas, a gentle approach is required. Just be cool folks.

approche

Park 2KM up Bunnigalore Road at the BPC sign. for the main crags. Follow the cains / tape left for the South and North Crags and right for the Road side crag.

éthique

Keep the trad routes natural except for lower off at the top if required and bolt the rest.

1.9. Binalong 319 routes in Area

1 2

1 Radar Range 2 The Cliff

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.672601, 148.621686

résumé

A nearby boulder field.

description

Binalong is a small village with a population of approximately 460 people in the Southern Tablelands Region of New South Wales. A nearby bouldering area is about all you're likely to find here, but there's some possibility of climbing nearby, particularly a cliff on private property that looks to be ~15 metres high.

approche

Binalong is easily accessible by car via Burleigh Griffin Way.

1.9.1. Radar Range 319 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.636955, 148.584650

résumé

Granite, with pockets, that's often overhung! And quite tall to boot. Lots of highballs.

description

A lovely hill of boulders capped by a large electricity tower and radar array. The rock type is predominately granite (or volcanic tuff masquerading as granite) but seems to be intermixed with rhyolite of some sort, reaching heights of up to around 10 metres (one slabby cliff section in a valley), with many overhung/undercut problems (very unusual for granite) due to the orientation of the rock against the hill. While sometimes contrived, sit-starts on overhung rock are very possible on many of the problems. There are highballs - feel free to top-rope them, but do not bolt them! The rock varies greatly in quality, from ultra-featured and very hard on the skin to smoother and even, in some cases, pocketed rather than flaky. Be aware that rock on some problems will be friable. It's very difficult to clean the amount of rock in this area and the moss is rampant on one side of the hill. All climbs top out unless otherwise stated.

There are no closed projects here. You may wish to stay off a climb that a friend is trying.

Lastly, a word on grades: they're likely to be wrong one way or another. Feel free to contribute your own views and/or change the grades if you feel strongly about them. You will note that some climbs have a range of grades assigned, which indicates either a climb on the tipping point of two grades or in some cases a number of variants that can make a climb easier or harder. Consensus and personal grades are expected, and climbs will always feel harder or easier depending on style, preference, strength, technique and experience.

Limitations de l'accès

This crag is on private property owned by the Harden Council. The Council has been approached and has advised that anyone entering this area does so completely at their own risk - you break it, you're on your own. There are a number of land users, including people who walk and ride up the hill, and nearby farming land as well as the Air Services Australia owned radar at the top of the hill.

Please be sensitive to potential issues and don't make noise that's going to arouse interest (you will be heard for a long distance). Don't expect to always be alone. Please note the ethics - they are there for good reasons and it's all about keeping this crag open, not styles of climbing.

Do not approach the radar array please. For any reason. Be sure to close the gate. Every time. Don't expect someone to close it behind you, you may let some cattle in or out in the meanwhile. Please stay away from the very obviously fenced farmer's land. There's enough boulders to climb without venturing over there.

approche

The area is a quick 2-3 minute drive from Binalong, heading out the Harden side of the town. There are two parking options:

1. Continue on for 1.8kms out of the town until you see a right turn t-intersection onto dirt road - Bobbara Road. Continue along the dirt road until you get to the gate and head from there up the hill. You can park at several spots along the road. The boulders are a matter of metres from parking.

2. Drive on a bit further along Burley Griffin Way and the main road splits off into an old, disused road right below the hill. The boulders are then 15 minutes from the car, uphill.

The hill itself can be quite steep at spots, with quite a lot of potholes. Bobbara road is occasionally quite pitted as well, but generally no problems with a 2WD.

où dormir

You could stay at the nearby hotel in Binalong.

éthique

NO BOLTING AT ALL - not even for setting up top ropes or cleaning, thanks. Use some gear or sling a nearby boulder.

NO CHIPPING OR COMFORTISING - there are WAY MORE than enough problems here! However, please do make the effort to clean off flakes that are likely to go, and moss.

KEEP THE BOULDERS CLEAN - this means removing tick marks and cleaning off excess chalk if need be. Vinegar is great for removing chalk and the granite won't be affected if you need to give something a scrub.

Finally, please follow the naming conventions. Climbs have been named in a satirical fashion. If you make a first ascent - and there's every likelihood you will, given the massive boulder field - then go ahead and have a go at something that amuses or annoys you. Do not number your climb. Give it a frickin' name. Feel free to explain what the name means in the description.

Variants and eliminates welcome. It is bouldering, after all.

historique

While it is difficult to know whether any area has been climbed at before, the first concerted efforts towards development were made after David Nott identified the area in late 2011. After destroying parts of his shoulder he returned with friends in 2012 to try and make a dent in the endless boulder field...

1.9.2. The Cliff 0 routes in Crag

résumé

Rhyolite climbing, with a lovely lake behind to take a dip in. But... It's a quarry.

description

Yeah, but really, don't swim in the lake unless you want to die. A set of cliffs really, spanning two sides of an old quarry (that's your first clue to quality), with the lovely added ambience of a crashed burnt out car at the bottom to add to the scenery. Enough rock to take a few lines, though unfortunately one side is almost constantly in the shade and has more moss than anyone may have time to remove it! If you want a quick run up a few lines of dubious quality after sampling the "stellar" bouldering nearby, then this is the place.

Limitations de l'accès

Try and keep your visits discreet please. 1080 poison is used nearby. Try not to ingest plants that have been poisoned, it will make you sick and bodies so ruin the ambience.

approche

You can park right in front of the quarry, through a gate marked with a sign about 1080 poison. Whatever you do, don't try and access the cliff from the top unless you're on a rope, it's dirt all the way to the edge.

où dormir

Heck, why not hole up at the nearby hotel in Binalong - sure to be a great sleep! You can grab some eats from the Black Swan, which also provides home-style pies.

éthique

Bolts must be camouflaged please.

historique

As with any patch of rock, it's hard to say whether it's been visited before. Certainly efforts towards development haven't been undertaken previously, which is amazing given the obvious quality of the climbing.

1.10. Berrima Bouldering. 47 routes in Area

2 3 1

1 Berrima weir 2 Berrima River Reserve 3 The Stone Quarry Walkway

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.486291, 150.331331

résumé

Quarried edges along the Wingecarribee River. Perfect for an afternoon out with the family, followed by a trip to the ice cream shop or the pub.

description

Short outcrops quarried for building the local churches etc. Explored numerous times by generations of climbers. Short with good landings.

Limitations de l'accès

None but the problems are on a public path frequented by dog walkers ,tourists and bird watchers. Limit use of chalk, carry out rubbish, etc,etc.

approche

Park in the centre of town, pick up a coffee in any one of the excellent cafes and walk 2 minutes down The Quarry Path, Berrima.

éthique

All of the routes will have been done at sometime or other. Keep chalk to a minimum and clean conservatively.

historique

Routes are not named as they will have been done numerous times. Climbed by Gavin Murray and Simon Vaughan in the 80’s, cleaned and climbed by Tranter and Harvey in the 2000’s and numerous people since.

1.10.1. Berrima weir 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.492865, 150.341064

description

Collection of minor boulders lining the river bank down stream from Berrima Weir, a well known swimming spot.

Third major boulder encountered as you move down stream. Two tiered outcrop with under cut starts.

approche

Park with care(don’t block the gate) at the well used pullout on Oldbury Road, Berrima. Follow the obvious path to the weir and then head down stream. Great in the summer.

Either carry on down stream, rock hopping (most fun in summertime) or take the left branch of the road just before the weir is reached and then cut down to the river.

historique

Climbed on during numerous summer swimming trips. Last cleaned and flood debris removed during the 3rd COVID wave in 2021.

1.10.2. Berrima River Reserve 17 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.480501, 150.323465

résumé

Scattered boulders along the river.

description

Small out crops of boulders both on both sides of the pathway. The Berrima River Walk starts at the Berrima Campground and follows the Wingecarribee west towards the Highway.

The Oxbow boulder is reached when the notice boards along the path disappear and the path turns sharply north.

Limitations de l'accès

None BUT this is a popular site for dog walkers , families and youths who like to jump off the rocks.

approche

From the centre of Berrima, turn down past the prison towards to Wingecarribee River. Follow sighs for Berrima River Walk.

éthique

A public area so minimum chalk and make sure vegetation disturbance is kept under control.

historique

Everything will have been climbed before. Vaughan and co climbed in the 80, Tranter and Harvey in the 90s and a new generation during the pandemic of the 2020’s

1.10.3. The Stone Quarry Walkway 19 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.489953, 150.336749

description

Scattered boulder and quarried walls along the river bank.

approche

Park in the centre of Berrima (opposite Gumnutt.) Follow the Stone Quarry Walk signs to the river.

historique

All routes have been climbed on over the years.

1.11. Mount Alexandra 130 routes in Crag

8 4 3 6 2 5 7 9 10 1 11

1 Naked Boulders 2 The First Cave 3 Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall 4 Vox Populi Wall 5 Sundeck 6 Central Area 7 Manchester United Wall 8 The Boulder 9 The Alcove 10 The Main Cave 11 Beyond the Cave

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et autres styles

Lat / Long: -34.442343, 150.456053

résumé

Well developed sport climbing cliff line (up to 20m) with super easy access on the Southern Tablelands.

description

A great crag in Mittagong, an hour and twenty minutes drive from Sydney and a good change from Nowra. Climbs are mostly sports with the odd trad line thrown in. Faces north west so can get a bit hot during summer, but because of the altitude tends to stay cooler than Nowra.

Limitations de l'accès

Located in the Mount Alexandra Reserve, under stewardship of the Wingecarribee Shire Council.

approche

• Exit the M31 Hume Motorway in either a Northerly or Southerly direction at the Mittagong Exits
• Turn off North at Victoria Street which is right in the middle of the town centre
• At the end of Victoria Street continue up the steep Mount Alexandra Lookout Road to reach the crag carpark
• Walk North across the other side of the carpark and follow a well worn walking trail to immediately find the start of the crag cliffs curving around to the right

1.11.1. Naked Boulders 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.442534, 150.454198

description

Probably been climbed before but no previous record of the area so I thought I would add it and get this nice boulder problem some attention.

approche

From the car park, pass the metal gate and head left down the track to the main crag. Directly on your right you should see a nice steep bouldering area.

historique

No idea.

1.11.2. The First Cave 21 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.442097, 150.454886

description

For a long time this sported only one route - Los Hermanos de la Denitente. Then this cave was discovered by Graeme Hill and Mark Woodard and several stiff sporty routes in the low to mid 20s where added. More recently, Simon Vaughan and Gavin Murray have added a couple more routes. Los Hermanos de la Denitente and Biafra can be attempted in the pouring rain.

1.11.3. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.442065, 150.455251

description

This is the very prominent 85° wall with a small overlap near the top.

© (bundybear)

1.11.4. Vox Populi Wall 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.442063, 150.455423

description

This is the very prominent 85° wall with a small overlap near the top.

Routes are very densely packed but high quality and varied. You can quite easily spend a full day doing great routes without moving more than 10 metres.

approche

Walk 2 mins past the first cave area.

1.11.5. Sundeck 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.442152, 150.455611

description

A small ledge with 5 routes located above the central area.

approche

Easy access up 'Open to Public Scrutiny' (14). Belay/Abseil anchors located above the climb.

1.11.6. Central Area 26 routes in Sector

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.442078, 150.455730

description

This is the area centered around the obvious high, orange corner crack around the corner from Vox Populi Wall. There are a number of routes in the upper tier (see 'Sundeck') above this area that can be accessed by climbing the rebolted Garth Miller 14, "Open to Public Srutiny"

This guide has been updated 21/04/2017 by JSD. Over the years routes have shifted slightly (due to rebolting) and changed names (due to them not being named). This is the most up to date resource for this area. Please consult before making changes

1.11.7. Manchester United Wall 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.442164, 150.456117

description

The wall to the left of the obvious corner, offering some great, and often solid at the grade, climbing.

1.11.8. The Boulder 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -34.441831, 150.456419

description

There are three bolted routes on downhill face of The Boulder. Carrots have been replaced with rings.

© (bundybear)

approche

The most direct path to The Boulder is from The Dead Horse Project (Bundy) on Manchester United Wall.Head down the hill from TDHP for about 60m where you'll see The Boulder looming up in front of you. Skirt around it's base to your right where you'll find the climbs on the down hill side.

© (bundybear)

historique

Originally bolted with bashies and assorted mank by persons unknown. Now kitted out with good quality rings.

© (bundybear)

1.11.9. The Alcove 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -34.442239, 150.456412

description

Small and broken walls before you reach the Big Cave area. fun low grade and short routes. Lots of moss and a little bit of bad rock so take care.

1.11.10. The Main Cave 23 routes in Sector

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Moulinette

Lat / Long: -34.442292, 150.456716

description

The obvious massive cave with the high rooves. The routes on the right side of the cave on the buttress are newly rebolted with rings and are all very good. There is awesome pumpy roof climbing in the main cave.

© (bundybear)

1.11.11. Beyond the Cave 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -34.442735, 150.457652

1.12. Mount Alexandra Lookout Road bouldering. 22 routes in Area

3 2 1

1 Roadside Boulder 2 The Castle 3 The Maze.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.439951, 150.450760

résumé

Low ball bouldering scattered across the hill side on the Mount Alexandra Lookout trail.

description

A maze of boulders with generally good landings. Being a new area, off the beaten track, brig a brush (or a flame thrower) to deal with the moss.

Limitations de l'accès

None.

approche

From the top left corner of Mount Alex car park head up the well marked fire trail. Less than 5 minutes steeply uphill a single boulder appears. Cut right up the ridge to the Castle Area. A further 200 metres up the ridge you will reach the Maze.

historique

First cleaned in during the great plague of 2020.

1.12.1. Roadside Boulder 0 routes in Boulder

1.12.2. The Castle 6 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.440261, 150.450822

description

Collection of boulder on 200 above the lone Roadside Boulder.

approche

From the lone Roadside Boulder located on the bend of the main path, cut up right to the collection of boulders.

1.12.3. The Maze. 16 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.439815, 150.450730

résumé

A maze of boulders resembling low canyons.

description

Lots of low level fun problems with mainly good landings.

approche

From the Castle follow the ridge line a further 300m up hill. Alternatively carry on up the main fire trail and cut across right to the boulders as they come into view.

1.13. Area 51 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.440237, 150.457838

description

Useful Info: Area 51, also known as Groom Lake, is a secret military facility about 90 miles north of Las Vegas. The number refers to a 6-by-10-mile block of land, at the center of which is a large air base the government will not discuss. The site was selected in the mid-1950s for testing of the U-2 spyplane, due to its remoteness, proximity to existing facilities and presence of a dry lake bed for landings. Groom Lake is America's traditional testing ground for "black budget" aircraft before they are publicly acknowledged. The facility and surrounding areas are also associated -- with varying levels of credibility -- with UFO and conspiracy stories. In 1989, Bob Lazar claimed on a Las Vegas television station that he had worked with alien spacecraft at Papoose Lake, south of Area 51. Since then, "Area 51" has become a popular symbol for the alleged U.S. Government UFO cover-up.

Routes are described right to left as you approach the crag.

© (bundybear)

approche

Park at the Gym/Swimming Pool Carpark.

Head straight up the hill on foot, passing the gym until you reach the fire access road (about 20 metres past the gym). There is a sign calling it the RED Track.

Follow this road down hill as it runs beside the Nattai River (looks more like a creek). After four or five minutes you should see a wooden post painted white on the bottom and red on top on the left side of the fire access road.

Walk 108 steps past this and then turn right off the road into bush down towards the river. Look for yellow tape on trees and cairns to guide the way.

Cross river easily and walk up steep hill veering gradually left as you go. Head up towards the cliffs at the top (about three to five minutes).

When you get to the cliff turn left and look for the ring bolts about five to ten metres along cliff. The first climb you come to is 'Butch'. This is a new crag so expect some loose rock for a while.

© (bundybear)

1.14. Mt Gibraltar 71 routes in Crag

1 2 3 4

1 North Walls 2 Main Wall 3 Slab Walls 4 Mt Gibraltar Bouldering

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.463157, 150.428745

description

Mount Gibraltar is an 863 metre high mountain in the Southern Highlands Region of New South Wales. The mountain is thought to have been formed from a collapsed volcano core. The rock type is called Mount Gibraltar Trachyte, or alternatively, micro-syenite. It is the most prominent peak in the Mount Gibraltar Reserve.

Limitations de l'accès

Located in the Mount Gibraltar Reserve.

approche

Mount Gibraltar is accessible by car via Oxley Drive.

1.14.1. North Walls 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.461944, 150.427704

description

The North Walls are a group of smaller walls located on the northern descent track. These walls include The Bat Cave, 14 Wall & Flake Wall.

approche

Park at the top of Jellore Lookout. Walk to the northern end of the paking area then turn left down through small boulders (30m). You will arrive at a large rock platform, from here turn right and join the northern descent track. Follow the descent track to Northern Walls (more info in descent notes below).

Alternatively continue straight down hill from rock platform and rap down Chadwicks Revenge.

informations pour la descente

Climbers Left. To walk down the Northern Descent, go north along the rim track for about 80m to the end of the rock shelf, then head down and left, there is a big boulder above "Punks on the Gib", the gully is just to the left of it. The gully between this buttress and the slabs is too scary to descend (and a bit grim to climb up) To get out, walk up the Northern Descent.

1.14.2. Main Wall 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -34.462281, 150.427139

description

Located directly below Mount Jellore lookout. Main wall hosts the highest concentration of Hard classics at the crag. Best to do the Slab Walls descent (40m south of the lookout) and walk around.

1.14.3. Slab Walls 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -34.462604, 150.427019

description

Dew can make the cliff slippery till 10am or so. Hot in summer after 12. Sizable expanse of rock separated from Main Wall by large vegetated gully.

approche

When approaching Slab Walls please stick to the established paths. Local rangers have approached climbers identifying that new trails (short cuts) are being created which is affecting the local vegetation.

The Slab Wall descent is NOT suitable for beginners, take them down the North Walls access and around the base OR belay them down the long rope downclimb about halfway down, especially if the rock is damp.

Easiest approach is either down the descent ramp, or abseil in as per the Main Wall and walk around, or down the north descent and walk around.

informations pour la descente

Not suitable for beginners!Use the North wall access or belay. Facing out walk 12m left from the little hut to a "Warning Cliff Edge" sign. Continue another 12m where you'll find a flattened cairn on your right. Walk down this trail to a tree (belay at top of Gripping Yarn). Facing out descend to your left and through the hard step down. Continue down and right where you'll see the mantel on Gripping Yarn. Head diagonally left and down 25m across gully, then back right to a green rope tied to a tree. Far From The Madding Crowd and Road Less Travelled start R (facing cliff) of the bottom of this roped section. Continue down through the scrub to another short rope down to base. You are now about 20m R (facing cliff) of The Very Easy Route. It takes about 3 minutes to get down.

historique

Wandered all over in the 70s, rediscovered by locals.

1.14.4. Mt Gibraltar Bouldering 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.463511, 150.428810

description

WIP

1.15. Hillbilly Highway Walls 7 routes in Crag

1 2 3

1 Left Hand Wall 2 Main Wall - Central Flutings 3 Right Hand Wall

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -34.340454, 150.205205

résumé

Amphitheatre of scallops, scoops and flutings 30 metres in height and with a seductive steepness

description

Small crag with limited development but potential for loads of quality long hard routes. Some previous development in the area.

Limitations de l'accès

As with all local crags. Park well, keep clean and quiet.

approche

2 minute walk in. Close to the coffee shops of Berrima.

éthique

Bolted crag.

1.15.1. Left Hand Wall 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.340347, 150.204813

description

Shorter wall on the left hand side of the crag. Steep with fine features. Upper ledge area to be developed (maybe!)

approche

Up hill, turn left.

1.15.2. Main Wall - Central Flutings 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.340421, 150.205111

description

Big wall. Flutings and pillars. Orange.

approche

Straight up the hill.

1.15.3. Right Hand Wall 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.340657, 150.205605

description

Shorter, harder.

approche

Up the hill, turn right.

1.16. The Tunnel Cluster 13 routes in Field

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.343999, 150.210974

résumé

A group of highball boulders nestled in a small valley.

description

Highly textured, mainly good landings. High.

approche

5 minutes walk in. Park at the tunnel entrance and follow the cliff line for 300 metres before dropping into the shallow valley.

historique

Been explored many times by local boulders. Latest reincarnation during the Covid lockdown. Please feel free to contribute grades and names from past events.

1.16.1. Sandy Boulder (1). 0 routes in Boulder

description

First boulder encountered. Sandy and overhung.

1.16.2. The Really High Boulder (2) 0 routes in Boulder

description

Large boulder with moss covered front face.

1.16.3. The Textured Block (3) 0 routes in Boulder

description

Oblong block with a vertical highly featured face topped with a lumpy slab finish fir the brave.

1.16.4. Slab and Tickle Boulder (4) 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:

description

A tall front face with a mixture of vertical and slabbed routes. The right side is compact orange rock. Backside is identified by a detached shard.

1.16.5. The Slug (5) 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:

description

5metes down the valley. Long boulder with climbing on all sides. Striking prow visible from the previous boulders.

1.17. Wollondilly River Valley 89 routes in Crag

1 2

1 Perpendicular Rock 2 Lanagans Falls

Summary:

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -34.290959, 150.098148

description

The valley of the Wollindilly River provides a stimulating environment for those who prefer to climb without being able to belay off the bumper-bar of their car. With the crags situated on the crests of the ridges of rather steep and well vegetated valley sides, the silver glow of the river below, with only a handful of buildings in sight, a great feeling of mountain wilderness is experienced.

approche

Two major crags, Perpendicular Rock and Lanagan's Falls, are located at Goodmans Ford, a crossing of the Wollondilly River. From Sydney, take the Hume Highway south to Mittagong. Pass through the township on the old highway till the Wombeyan Caves Road (on your right) is reached. [That was 1998, might have changed] Turn onto this and follow it for 45 kilometres to the Wollondilly River. The road is not completely sealed and is narrow and windy as it descends into the river valley.

où dormir

There is a commercial campground just down the hill. More basic camping can be had on the river bank south of the bridge. The farmer/owner charges for such camping. A great view of Perpendicular Rock can be had from this area.

historique

Copied verbatim from Harry Luxford's 1998 guide "Hot Rock, Climbs on Granitic Rock Around Sydney" (with permission). Additional information from "An Interim Guide to Rockclimbs at The Wollondilly (1984)" also by Harry.

1.17.1. Perpendicular Rock 36 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.310066, 150.097235

description

A big bluff of diorite looming over the Wollondilly river valley, this unique and obscure crag is guaranteed to provide adventure.

All route info sourced from sydney rockies guide.

Limitations de l'accès

On private property. Permission to climb was apparently granted by the landowners in 1998. The block the crag is located on is completely undeveloped, and you almost certainly will not run into a soul.

approche

Wombeyan Caves Road, then a big slog up the hill through the bush and up the talus.

Decsent

From the top of the crag, one possible descent is to the north (to the left when looking up at the crag from the base). Walk straight down the slope behind the crag until you reach a fence after a hundred meters or so. Turn left, and follow the fence for another couple of hundred meters. Hopefully you will see a small pile of scree up on a small ridge back to your left. It looks like a good lookout point. Climb this, and you will see you are past the northernmost buttress of the crag. Start descending down very steep scree, gullies, and slippery grass. If at some point you see a huge sprawling fig tree, head towards it and go around it to the right. Approach shoes or Volleys would be very nice to have (although we did it in climbing shoes), and take extreme care if it's wet!

où dormir

Camping in the Wollondilly valley is described in the guide. If you're driving down from Sydney the night before, the Wollondilly Lookout, on your right a short while after you go through the old sandstone tunnel, is a good but exposed bivy spot.

éthique

Purely trad. Not a single bolt here.

1.17.2. Lanagans Falls 53 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.315338, 150.044219

description

Lanagan's Falls is a series of largish buttresses and walls formed of dioritic rock. In parts it is massive, in others it is almost columnar. Flying Buttress is the tallest section, being about 120-130 metres high. The major section of the crag is approximately 300 metres wide, but several more subsiduary sections extend both left and right of this, adding almost as much width again. The rock provides both good holds and friction. However then wet the rock tends to be rather slippery. The black rock is superb, but when climbing on the red/yellowish coloured rock, some care is recommended as this colour usually indicates deep weathering. New routes often require some cleaning, but once this has been completed the rock underneath is usually of top quality.

approche

Lanagans Falls is located on the opposite side of the valley from Perpendicular Rock. Cross Goodmans Ford (now a bridge) and continue up the road for 1400 metres to where the creek crosses. There is lots of space, so parking is easy. The most obvious way to the crag is to simply follow the creek bed. This involves quite a bit of boulder hopping and some minor climbing. There is an old track on the left (southern) valley side which joins the creek at about 2/3 of the way up. Unfortunately, this track can be hard to find and thus can take longer then the creek bed route. The walk from car to crag takes about 50 minutes. There has been a change in the status of the creek area, as a track to allow motorised vehicles has recently been constructed, and a tape barrier across the track. It may be necessary to see the camp manager/owner for permission to walk up the creek bed - I suspect his main concern is to keep out trail-bikes and 4 wheel drives. This crag is on private property.

historique

This crag had been seen from Perpendicular Rock for several years, but at that distance it appears broken and low angled; and the route to the base of the crag somewhat rugged. Consequently, it did not evoke any interest. During the 70's several attempts were made, without success, to reach the crag from the top and from side spurs. In March 1982, Ron Miller and Harry Luxford made the first climbing visit to the crag. Not only did the walk-up turnout to be fairly easy, but the surrounding environs were rather pleasant. The result of the first trip - a healthy dose of "respect". The weeks later Kevin Westren and Harry camped at the Goodmans Ford for five days and commenced the crag's development. The first completed climb was Wonga Crack on Raven Wall. Lanagan's Falls is rather cold in winter, but the enthusiasm was so high that another eight climbs were completed between April and August, by Harry and Kevin. This was during a period of drought, thus they were able to do the actual falls in the dry, now the route Slipstream. The warmth of Spring brought Bruce Cameron out of hibernation and development accelerated. The rest of the year produced six routes in September, five in October, nine in November and three in December. All bar one done by Bruce and Harry. By now the crag was no longer a secret, many climbers began to visit the area. But the number of new routes increased only slowly - though not from a lack of potential. An interim guide was produced in 1984. But the time was not right for the crag to be popular. Many people did not like the walk up, or the drive from Sydney, or the wildness of the place; and at that time there was plenty of new sandstone areas being developed. The area was almost forgotten. Maybe this guidebook will help change this. [Ho ho ho - this was written in 1998!]

1.18. The Loony Bin 15 routes in Crag

2 1

1 The Loony Bin 2 Huge wall

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Style inconnu et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -34.683176, 150.497443

résumé

Great rock. All the starts are hard, most routes have a roof or two.

description

12 metre high wall capped with a roof in most places. Vertical to steep routes on beautiful rock. Routes described left to right.

Limitations de l'accès

National park land so take care with new routes. Park at the 2nd Shoalhaven sign as you leave Fitzroy Fall.

approche

Park at the 4 wooden poles marking a substantial track just before to first hairpin on the pass. (left hand side as you go towards Kangaroo Valley.)

éthique

Bolts.

1.18.1. The Loony Bin 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -34.685644, 150.493409

résumé

Great rock. All the starts are hard, most routes have a roof or two.

description

12 metre high wall capped with a roof in most places. Vertical to steep routes on beautiful rock. Routes described left to right.

Limitations de l'accès

National park land so take care with new routes. Park at the 2nd Shoalhaven sign as you leave Fitzroy Falls.

approche

Park at the wooden bollards, and walk back up the road for two minutes. It's about 15 meters off the road. -34.68586,150.49351

éthique

Bolts.

1.18.2. Huge wall 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -34.682606, 150.498617

description

The 100m+ wall of choss that you can see above the road

approche

10+ minutes straight up from the stone 'Welcome to South Coast NSW' sign two switchbacks down from the top.

éthique

Using your hands to sculpt holds is acceptable - but seriously, don't bother. What protection is there is Trad

1.19. The Sanctuary 33 routes in Crag

1 2

1 Hobo's Hangout 2 Dad's Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Style inconnu et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -34.441897, 150.443909

résumé

Easy access, a good alternative to Mt Alex if you live in the Southern Highlands.

Stays in shade until midday in the summer.

description

A collection of cliffs from 10 to 20 metres in height overlooking a picturesque valley.

Limitations de l'accès

Take care parking on the access road and close the gate if open.

approche

Turn left onto Bessemers road at the traffic lights near the Mittagong RSL. Turn left on to Sunset Point Drive and park near 64. Walk through the gate, contine straight down fire trail, passing rock steps until the river is reached. Turn left to the valley floor. Turn right steeply uphill for 2 minutes until the crag can be seen above you on the right. OR Follow the directions from Lake Mittagong below - slightly longer but easy to find.

1.19.1. Hobo's Hangout 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.436229, 150.441525

résumé

A selection of mainly moderate routes with easy access. Sheltered in the winter. Shade until midday in the summer.

description

Collection of routes scattered off the path betwenn Mittagong and the Hume Highway.

Limitations de l'accès

From Lake Alexandra walk 15 minutes down the path to the left. Once in the valley floor look right up the hill and you will spot the cliffs. The large crack at the top of the incline is the centre of Dad's Crag.

approche

20 metres before reaching Dad's Crag, hike uphill for 5 minutes just before the path rises from the valley floor.

1.19.2. Dad's Crag 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.435948, 150.441050

résumé

The large outcrop a further 5 minutes walk up the valley from Hobo's

description

First area developed. Large Hobo cave with short overhung routes on hard Mt Alex rock.

Limitations de l'accès

Directly opposite the very large boulder in the river. Look up right on the hill side and you will see the crack of "Ä Family Affair."

approche

Either walk up the faint track straight up to the rock (there is one there somewhere) or follow directions to Hobos and walk along the track which runs next to the rock.

1.19.3. The Nursery 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Style inconnu

description

A small section of good rock and large boulders a further 50 metres up the track.

approche

Approach as for Dads Crag and continue 50 metres up the track.

informations pour la descente

Lower off from all routes

historique

First looked at by MT and SV in 2010. Developed by locals in the summer of 2018

1.20. Penrose Forest 107 routes in Area

1 2 5 3 6 4

1 Baronga Creek 1 2 Luxor 3 Stingray Swamp 4 The Lookout 5 Hidden Valley 6 Baronga Creek Cave

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -34.632245, 150.227473

résumé

Penrose State Forest is one of the most well-known forests in NSW, given its location on either side of the Hume Highway just over an hour from Sydney.

description

A collection of unclimbed sandstone crags up to 15m in height. Get out there and start claiming some routes! For up to date forest information check out http://www.forestrycorporation.com.au/visit/forests/penrose

Limitations de l'accès

All crags are accessed by forestry trails. 2wd vehicles will be fine.

historique

Located and added to The Crag by Adam Rabjohns in Aug 2017

1.20.1. Baronga Creek 1 0 routes in Unknown

description

Small area with possible routes.

1.20.2. Luxor 41 routes in Area

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -34.626286, 150.222904

description

A mixed area with small cliffs and plenty of boulders, lots of potential for bouldering.

approche

Follow stingray road to top of hill and turn into cleared area on the right, drive into forest through cleared path. Park in small clearing and follow path down through descent gulley to base of cliffs and top of boulder area.

For the lower areas it is easier to park across the valley on Stingray Road.

1.20.3. Stingray Swamp 53 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Bloc et autres styles

Lat / Long: -34.633449, 150.223582

résumé

Short faces. Average rock. Mainly moderate routes.

description

Shortish out crop, sheltered from the wind.

Limitations de l'accès

State Forest so please adhere to rules and regulations.

approche

2 minute walk in. Follow path along ridge and then bear right to the bottom of the cliff.

éthique

Mixture of trad and sports

1.20.4. The Lookout 0 routes in Unknown

1.20.5. Hidden Valley 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Style inconnu et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.632725, 150.238243

résumé

Expansive area in deep forested valley.

description

High walls and giant caves with a wild feel.

approche

Park with care on the side of the fire trail and follow cairns down past the decent gulley. Turn right for Main Wall.

historique

Under development by the Sloths.

1.20.6. Baronga Creek Cave 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.637340, 150.215680

résumé

Short section of hard river rock. Stays dry in the rain.

description

A mixture of hard river rock and snappy iron bands. Routes described left to right.

approche

Park in the well marked Webber’s Road campsite / picnic spot. Cross the creek on the large log at the left hand side of the cave.

éthique

Please remove excess chalk as this area is close to tourist tracks.

1.21. Goulburn & Surrounds 47 routes in Area

1 2 3 4

1 Pejar Bouldering 2 Overflow Walls 3 Marsden Weir Rocks 4 Sloth Rock

Summary:

Bloc, Psicobloc et autres styles

Lat / Long: -34.674873, 149.653410

1.21.1. Pejar Bouldering 34 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -34.581306, 149.575922

résumé

Goulburn's granite bouldering at its best. Unfortunately blackberries have covered most of the area, take a machete and gloves.

description

Boulder stacks with plenty of challenging short routes. Many short routes with RBB. Longer routes are bolted. Good boulders, bad blackberries.

Limitations de l'accès

No issues

approche

From Goulburn continue 22km on Crookwell Road. Access to the climbing area is a small dirt road on the left at the end of steel guard rail. Indicate early as traffic does not expect vehicles to enter here. Take a right past white survey marker and park at the boulders.

éthique

Bolts where needed.

1.21.2. Overflow Walls 0 routes in Cliff

description

Walls cut into stone for the overflow of Pejar Dam.

approche

Continue straight on the access road until you reach a steel boom gate. Park here and walk uphill to the top of overflow walls.

informations pour la descente

Through the fence and down a steep descent gully.

1.21.3. Marsden Weir Rocks 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Moulinette et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -34.737721, 149.704026

description

Small crag 100m upstream of Marsden weir.

approche

Drive right up to the crag. If the gates on the road are closed park your car and walk to last 100m.

1.21.4. Sloth Rock 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Tous Psicobloc

Lat / Long: -34.738444, 149.664472

description

Local Deep Water Soloing Cliff.

Water levels can vary dramatically, as council can pump from here to Sooley Dam.

Always Check water depth before climbing

approche

Approach is by water only. Get your canoes out and enjoy a 2km paddle on this quiet waterway.

historique

Developed by the Goulburn Climbing Sloths.

1.22. wild wild west 12 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

résumé

full details will be added at a later date, dont ask where it is

1.22.1. scrotal zone 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.22.2. camp cave area 6 routes in Area

Summary:

1.22.3. far and beyond 1 route in Area

Summary:

résumé

next major set of cliffs beyond camp